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Old 09-11-20, 03:34 AM
  #26  
sloar 
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Originally Posted by djb
cool. Now it's time to get yer keester in that seat for regular riding. It can be good to increase distances and load weight bit by bit and the more hours you spend riding the better it will be to make small fit adjustments, and to gradually get stronger as you add more weight to the bike.
The engine is fine, I’ve been riding long distance for a long time.
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Old 09-11-20, 05:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by sloar
The engine is fine, I’ve been riding long distance for a long time.
well enjoy getting your panniers set up and planning for your adventure next year. Bike touring is a wonderful experience, such a neat way to go through a landscape and have such good interactions with people. Enjoy fall riding. Cheers
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Old 09-11-20, 05:54 AM
  #28  
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I use to tour several years ago, I did Indiana to Florida in 09. Terrible planning and wrong bike set up made to not so enjoyable. Shortly after that I started racing. I want to get back into it, but do it right this time. That’s the reason for so many questions.
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Old 09-11-20, 06:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sloar
I use to tour several years ago, I did Indiana to Florida in 09. Terrible planning and wrong bike set up made to not so enjoyable. Shortly after that I started racing. I want to get back into it, but do it right this time. That’s the reason for so many questions.
ah, I must have missed that. Well, all bike stuff is neat, but you've certainly set up a good, solid touring bike now that you could ride to Florida again or heck, around the world.
Have fun sorting out your gear etc and while the internet is full of all kinds of opinions and wacky stuff, this forum is a pretty good place to get insights into stuff and to see what already works for a number of people.

Until just now, I had no idea where Indiana is, but looking it up in google maps I see that its just below Chicago.
Indy 500 and all that, but that was it. Live and learn.
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Old 09-11-20, 07:02 AM
  #30  
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quick note, looking at your fender positions. The front fender is kinda high up on the back part of the front wheel. You'll see riding in the rain that if the fender is rotated down more, less rain and gritty stuff will get thrown up onto your feet and chainrings and chain. You should be able to just change the attachment point at the fork crown from the front to the back, essentially moving the fender down a few inches. There are also add on flexible rubber splashguards that you could add onto the bottom (or make one yourself) that will keep a lot less stuff going up onto that part of the bike.
One of the real advantages of fenders is keeping all this grit off the drivetrain.

You can kinda see how its lower in this recent shot of my bike--with the attached rubber guard thats hard to see being lower.
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Old 09-11-20, 07:31 AM
  #31  
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Thanks, I still have a few wrinkles to smooth out.
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Old 09-11-20, 11:43 AM
  #32  
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If you mounted the front fender tab at the front of the fork crown, I think DJB is suggesting to move it to the rear of the fender crown, but no other changes than that.

I cut mud flaps for fenders from Folgers coffee can lids, the black plastic is quite flexible and if you are a coffee drinker, they are free.
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Old 09-11-20, 02:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
If you mounted the front fender tab at the front of the fork crown, I think DJB is suggesting to move it to the rear of the fender crown, but no other changes than that.

I cut mud flaps for fenders from Folgers coffee can lids, the black plastic is quite flexible and if you are a coffee drinker, they are free.
I get the plastic for my fender mud/water flaps, by getting something suitable from out of recycling bin.

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