Anybody know the frame weight of Fuji Roubaix?
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Anybody know the frame weight of Fuji Roubaix?
I was just wondering what the frame weight of the Fuji Roubaix was.
#4
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There's several Roubaix models with different frame materials, sizes, and group sets to choose from so its really to random of a question to accurately answer. I will tell you that back a few years ago when I was searching for a new road bike I was obsessed with bike weights and became somewhat of a weight weenie in the process. I recall the Fuji's being quite a bit heavier than a comparable Cannondale, Giant, Trek, Specialized, etc... with similar components.
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There's several Roubaix models with different frame materials, sizes, and group sets to choose from so its really to random of a question to accurately answer. I will tell you that back a few years ago when I was searching for a new road bike I was obsessed with bike weights and became somewhat of a weight weenie in the process. I recall the Fuji's being quite a bit heavier than a comparable Cannondale, Giant, Trek, Specialized, etc... with similar components.
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No I go to upstate New York every summer in the mountains and do lots of climbing. Also most of the races are in the middle of Florida where there are a few hills. I also love the ride of a light bike.
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The listed weight for that bike is 18.74 lbs. If you have a small size it might be lighter. Realistically you need to shave 3 lbs to get to your goal. The wheels list at 1943g so if you get some 1300-1400g wheels you can loose a pound. If you upgrade handlebars, brakes, cassette, tires, tubes, stem, saddle and seatpost you might buy another pound. If you want to get to 16 pounds or lighter you probably need to upgrade to DA or Red components
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The listed weight for that bike is 18.74 lbs. If you have a small size it might be lighter. Realistically you need to shave 3 lbs to get to your goal. The wheels list at 1943g so if you get some 1300-1400g wheels you can loose a pound. If you upgrade handlebars, brakes, cassette, tires, tubes, stem, saddle and seatpost you might buy another pound. If you want to get to 16 pounds or lighter you probably need to upgrade to DA or Red components
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I think most people would do wheels. Lighter rolling weight, especially for climbing. Personally if I wanted to a 15 lb bike I would get a Chinese carbon frame like a Workswell, Chinese carbon wheels and full Ultegra group and build a 15lb bike for around $1800 or less....oh wait, that's what I did. I like the bike the OP bought and think it's a good value but if he goes the upgrade route he'll end up with over $1800 into the bike before it gets down to 16 lbs never mind 15
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So you'd opt for the parts choice that drives performance, over eg. comfort, enjoyability or the 'user interface'.
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I think most people would do wheels. Lighter rolling weight, especially for climbing. Personally if I wanted to a 15 lb bike I would get a Chinese carbon frame like a Workswell, Chinese carbon wheels and full Ultegra group and build a 15lb bike for around $1800 or less....oh wait, that's what I did. I like the bike the OP bought and think it's a good value but if he goes the upgrade route he'll end up with over $1800 into the bike before it gets down to 16 lbs never mind 15
What you should do OP, is put together the weight of your affordable light build plan. Mine is 10.0 lb. I know I can put 10.0 lb on any frame/fork and have a complete bike that I can afford. That puts any project or bike that I see into perspective.
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I'm pretty sure the 1.1 weighs 18.46 and the 1.3 weighs 18.76 and I got the idea of building up the Roubaix from @allen254 who got it down to the weight I am targeting. I am not going to get another bike.
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I'm pretty sure the 1.1 weighs 18.46 and the 1.3 weighs 18.76 and I got the idea of building up the Roubaix from @allen254 who got it down to the weight I am targeting. I am not going to get another bike.
How light are you trying to make it?
And what's your budget? I'm starting a new Fuji SL build towards the end of the year with di2 this bike will weigh around 13 lbs.
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Just wheels alone will shave a 1 lbs if you get some that weigh 1500 grams oh and the seat post an saddle are heavy also the original oval crank is light but very flexible , also stem and handle bars will shave of grams also.
How light are you trying to make it?
And what's your budget? I'm starting a new Fuji SL build towards the end of the year with di2 this bike will weigh around 13 lbs.
How light are you trying to make it?
And what's your budget? I'm starting a new Fuji SL build towards the end of the year with di2 this bike will weigh around 13 lbs.
C'mon, with a 740 g frame you can do better than 13 lb. Without pedals, of course.
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Just wheels alone will shave a 1 lbs if you get some that weigh 1500 grams oh and the seat post an saddle are heavy also the original oval crank is light but very flexible , also stem and handle bars will shave of grams also.
How light are you trying to make it?
And what's your budget? I'm starting a new Fuji SL build towards the end of the year with di2 this bike will weigh around 13 lbs.
How light are you trying to make it?
And what's your budget? I'm starting a new Fuji SL build towards the end of the year with di2 this bike will weigh around 13 lbs.
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I'm kind of curious how this question will pan out as well. As a thought experiment, my Pulsium weighs in at 17.5lbs with full Ultegra, carbon seatpost, aksium wheels, and no pedals. The carbon frame's a little bit heavy at 3.8lb but I could take off 2 pounds from there with a super lightweight frameset. Wheels would remove an extra pound. Between a lighter cockpit and crankset I could probably save another pound or two. That would put it at 12.5lbs at the lightest. Don't know how much lighter you can really get from there... maybe another half pound with a lighter groupset?
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I think my steel framed '03 Fuji Roubaix Pro weighs in at about the same as the '16 carbon one sans pedals and cages. Sadly we'll never know because I don't care enough to find out.
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I have been looking at the campagnolo zonda wheels for a more budget friendly build, does anyone have experience with them?
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Easy and cheap things to do to save grams...
-Tim-
- Folding kevlar bead tires weigh less than non-folding wire bead. Switch next time you need tires if not already using.
- Lighter tubes - continental race light is a nice balance between reliability of butyl and the light weight of latex. Use the shortest valve stem that works. Remove knurled nut and cap.
- Cheap Shimano cables and housings weigh less than Jagwire or other high end cables
- plastic cable ferrules instead of metal
- Smaller saddlebag. Ditch the tools you never use.
- Aluminum bottle cage bolts
- 2mm thick bar tape instead of the thicker padded stuff, wrap very carefully using as little tape as possible and don't use the extra loop under/around the brake hoods.
- Strip the heavy grease out of your headset and bottom bracket and just run dry
- Just kidding about that last one.
-Tim-
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I'm kind of curious how this question will pan out as well. As a thought experiment, my Pulsium weighs in at 17.5lbs with full Ultegra, carbon seatpost, aksium wheels, and no pedals. The carbon frame's a little bit heavy at 3.8lb but I could take off 2 pounds from there with a super lightweight frameset. Wheels would remove an extra pound. Between a lighter cockpit and crankset I could probably save another pound or two. That would put it at 12.5lbs at the lightest. Don't know how much lighter you can really get from there... maybe another half pound with a lighter groupset?
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Easy and cheap things to do to save grams...
-Tim-
- Folding kevlar bead tires weigh less than non-folding wire bead. Switch next time you need tires if not already using.
- Lighter tubes - continental race light is a nice balance between reliability of butyl and the light weight of latex. Use the shortest valve stem that works. Remove knurled nut and cap.
- Cheap Shimano cables and housings weigh less than Jagwire or other high end cables
- plastic cable ferrules instead of metal
- Smaller saddlebag. Ditch the tools you never use.
- Aluminum bottle cage bolts
- 2mm thick bar tape instead of the thicker padded stuff, wrap very carefully using as little tape as possible and don't use the extra loop under/around the brake hoods.
- Strip the heavy grease out of your headset and bottom bracket and just run dry
- Just kidding about that last one.
-Tim-
And were you talking about my frame @rpenmanparker
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i like the tire and tube idea but after that you went a bit overboard.
And were you talking about my frame @rpenmanparker
And were you talking about my frame @rpenmanparker
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 05-27-16 at 02:00 PM.