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That is a really good question! Thanks for bringing it up merziac! As a rather inexperienced wrencher, I do want to live another day.
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I've been watching this Jeffrey Richman tandem. It disa
ppeared but ended up on Nextdoor for a fraction of the $500 asking price. Really nice seller. They understood its value but the 64/59 seat tubes made it a hard sell. They only asked that I send them a picture when it gets refurbished. My son is 6'4" so it looks like I have a captain...
ppeared but ended up on Nextdoor for a fraction of the $500 asking price. Really nice seller. They understood its value but the 64/59 seat tubes made it a hard sell. They only asked that I send them a picture when it gets refurbished. My son is 6'4" so it looks like I have a captain...
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The crapshoot factor goes way up when you pick one up, especially when done in frustration, impatience or anger.
When I find myself even thinking about it, I step back, take a deep breath and ponder a different solution that may avoid a bad outcome.
I have been wrenching, hacking, building and working on bikes, cars professionally, drag racing motorcycles and many things in between all my life.
Hammers like any tool have great value when applied correctly, when not they can have some of the most disastrous results which can also serve to build skill after the fact but is better avoided by forethought.
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[QUOTE=merziac;21637827]I have a lot of hammers, rarely, almost never use them on bikes.
I would guess that removing these cotters from cottered crank is one of them? I found a pretty good Youtube video by "RJ the bike guy" for removing cotters, but even he had a really tough time getting them out. On my last cottered bike rebuild, I didn't remove the cranks as they had a good feel and just dribbled tenacious oil down into the bearings. That one was a beater Peugeot build, and so I didn't mind. This one I'd like to upgrade, unless you think it is worth retaining the cranks, seeing as it is all original?
I would guess that removing these cotters from cottered crank is one of them? I found a pretty good Youtube video by "RJ the bike guy" for removing cotters, but even he had a really tough time getting them out. On my last cottered bike rebuild, I didn't remove the cranks as they had a good feel and just dribbled tenacious oil down into the bearings. That one was a beater Peugeot build, and so I didn't mind. This one I'd like to upgrade, unless you think it is worth retaining the cranks, seeing as it is all original?
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New Crank Cotter Press
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[QUOTE=Nubra;21637885]
Hard to say, I do have a soft spot for Moto's, have always been a fan and if the BB in this one is ok from the outside then maybe leave it.
Sounds to me like the Pug should have been the test case to practice on, this one could be too.
I've done plenty of cotters but they as you can see are one of the biggest crapshoots in all of cycling since they often require the hammer be employed, the point of no return comes quickly.
If the goal is to just get it off then destruction may not matter but I subscribe to do no harm mainly for the practice and refinement of technique for when it does matter.
I also like to have any and all spare parts, you never know when you may need them and like I said, the ability to think it through and be successful is priceless when saving something is critical to the goal.
Maybe not the case here but often is and presents the opportunity to challenge the challenge and prevail when the stakes are not high, win, win.
I have a lot of hammers, rarely, almost never use them on bikes.
I would guess that removing these cotters from cottered crank is one of them? I found a pretty good Youtube video by "RJ the bike guy" for removing cotters, but even he had a really tough time getting them out. On my last cottered bike rebuild, I didn't remove the cranks as they had a good feel and just dribbled tenacious oil down into the bearings. That one was a beater Peugeot build, and so I didn't mind. This one I'd like to upgrade, unless you think it is worth retaining the cranks, seeing as it is all original?
I would guess that removing these cotters from cottered crank is one of them? I found a pretty good Youtube video by "RJ the bike guy" for removing cotters, but even he had a really tough time getting them out. On my last cottered bike rebuild, I didn't remove the cranks as they had a good feel and just dribbled tenacious oil down into the bearings. That one was a beater Peugeot build, and so I didn't mind. This one I'd like to upgrade, unless you think it is worth retaining the cranks, seeing as it is all original?
Sounds to me like the Pug should have been the test case to practice on, this one could be too.
I've done plenty of cotters but they as you can see are one of the biggest crapshoots in all of cycling since they often require the hammer be employed, the point of no return comes quickly.
If the goal is to just get it off then destruction may not matter but I subscribe to do no harm mainly for the practice and refinement of technique for when it does matter.
I also like to have any and all spare parts, you never know when you may need them and like I said, the ability to think it through and be successful is priceless when saving something is critical to the goal.
Maybe not the case here but often is and presents the opportunity to challenge the challenge and prevail when the stakes are not high, win, win.
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Cool wheel set! Those are early Phil Wood hubs with steel centers, and the bearings in them can be replaced. Wonder what the rims are? The shim is factory-issue, I had one just like it on the 1975 Motobecane Grand Touring that was my introduction to this forum's Clunker Challenge 100 series. Prowl around on this site and you'll find somewhere the first four or five pages a thread on converting French cottered cranks over to cotterless, which basically involves replacing the spindle with the right width and length square-taper spindle. I've done similar things trial and error through the years with no ill effect. In my workshop as I speak is a battered Mercier that some previous owner did just that - it has its original French Barden black fixed cup, a well-used Sugino spindle, and an ISO adjustable cup crammed in there, running mis-matched cranks. It works and completes the generalized holy hell of how that bike presents.
I wouldn't sweat the cranks too much - there are lots of tutorials on how to remove cotters. I've gone to using a big metal pipe held over the rounded end, supported against the ground, and using a BIG (2 lb) hammer to smack the threaded end precisely. Coupled with a soak in penetrating oil, it has worked flawlessly without distorting anything.
I wouldn't sweat the cranks too much - there are lots of tutorials on how to remove cotters. I've gone to using a big metal pipe held over the rounded end, supported against the ground, and using a BIG (2 lb) hammer to smack the threaded end precisely. Coupled with a soak in penetrating oil, it has worked flawlessly without distorting anything.
The question now is are the rims still rideable?
Oh, and I get your pipe setup now, I was envisioning something else when I asked about it.
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Also, thanks to you Merziac, meant to include you in the "thanks for making me rethink the hammer" post below. Appreciate the philosophical bent of your commentary.
Cheers!
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Last edited by Nubra; 08-12-20 at 11:11 PM.
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While people do use hammers as you've discovered, there are better tools for the job:
New Crank Cotter Press
New Crank Cotter Press
I don't have enough hands to hold the pipe against the crank on one end, against the top of my shoe on the other, while holding a great big ol' hammer ... you'll just have to use your imagination, and picture me calculating how hard to hit without injuring myself ...
I found a couple of alternatives to using a hammer for removing cotter pins.
This one has a pretty good discussion along with the photo of a vise, socket and assistant for removal of pin.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29233640@N07/3066678449
And further down on this thread, someone suggested that this tool had worked very well for them, instead of buying a $60 cotter removal press. I think that the heavy duty chain breaker is well worth the cost! Will report back.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...ker-66488.html
Thanks to both and all of you for making me think past the hammer!
Cheers.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
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The rims are in great shape, wheels are true, galvanized spokes very good too. So I am pretty sure they are ride able, is there a reason they would not be? I haven't started on this yet, but are the hubs the standard free ball bearing and cone that I am used to? Will post photos later.
Also, thanks to you Merziac, meant to include you in the "thanks for making me rethink the hammer" post below. Appreciate the philosophical bent of your commentary.
Cheers!
Also, thanks to you Merziac, meant to include you in the "thanks for making me rethink the hammer" post below. Appreciate the philosophical bent of your commentary.
Cheers!
The hubs are Phil Wood hubs, somebody already mentioned that I think and they are sealed so if they to are good then again you are as well.
They should clean up to a large degree, you will have to decide if its enough for you.
The hammer thing is a tough one, you very well may have to go there anyway so keep that in mind, it is likely to be a valuable learning experience no matter what and that is part of my thinking, these kind of tasks can teach you a lot if you let them, if they are difficult they can teach you more which is good in the long run to be able to work through them.
Glad you are taking it on, make it so.
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Snagged this pair of Superbe Pro hubs from a local seller, $35 for the pair. Perfect for a wheel project for the Univega....
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I found a couple of alternatives to using a hammer for removing cotter pins.
This one has a pretty good discussion along with the photo of a vise, socket and assistant for removal of pin.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29233640@N07/3066678449
And further down on this thread, someone suggested that this tool had worked very well for them, instead of buying a $60 cotter removal press. I think that the heavy duty chain breaker is well worth the cost! Will report back.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...ker-66488.html
Thanks to both and all of you for making me think past the hammer!
Cheers.
This one has a pretty good discussion along with the photo of a vise, socket and assistant for removal of pin.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29233640@N07/3066678449
And further down on this thread, someone suggested that this tool had worked very well for them, instead of buying a $60 cotter removal press. I think that the heavy duty chain breaker is well worth the cost! Will report back.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...ker-66488.html
Thanks to both and all of you for making me think past the hammer!
Cheers.
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Holdsworth Cyclone
Got this great Holdsworth Cyclone (sold as a frameset as a clube racer I think) and a Giant Kronos and cash for a bike I was selling. Great fun working on it. Took the crazy Simplex crank off and slapped a Gran Sport on with Cyclone shifters. Modolo International levers and Dia Compe side pulls replaced the Mafac Racer stuff (for safety). Best part was sourcing great quality decals on eBay delivered for $12 CAD. Not crazy about my touch ups so may re-do that. Very pleased.
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The Township to the north of me has a trash compactor / recycling site , I do a drive by once or twice a week to see what the old guy that runs it has set aside to sell. A couple weeks ago I got this 24 inch Specialized Hotrock , it needs some work but should be a nice bike for my 10 year old Grandson to ride when he is at our house. It cost me 5.00
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I bought the expensive bikesmith cotter press and every time I have to use it I am glad I did and I have used it enough by now to justify the price, if this is the only cotter bike you plan to work on that is a different calculation. I also had an epic fail using the hammer method so that might have influenced me too
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
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Looks like a really great tool! Thanks for pointing it out. Lucky for me, I found a local mechanic with a cotter pin removal tool, the long lever type. Don't know when I will get a chance to use it though. We are next on the fire evacuation zone list, and anticipate being evacuated tonight or tomorrow out of Santa Cruz. Cheers!
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I was bored with my time so I found a Peugeot PR 10 that had hacked handlebars that were flipped to bull position, it had the plastic Mafac brake bodies, I've never had before, one was broken. Dang. I've already swapped the bars for a set off a Gitane TdF.
A Zeus that still has its headset, bb, and cranks.
And lastly a tired De Rosa track frame.
The PR 10 did come with a set of replacement wheels, those were pulled and I put on some high flange gold label Normandy hubs, this will wait until I find what will be the right stuff for reassemble.
A Zeus that still has its headset, bb, and cranks.
And lastly a tired De Rosa track frame.
The PR 10 did come with a set of replacement wheels, those were pulled and I put on some high flange gold label Normandy hubs, this will wait until I find what will be the right stuff for reassemble.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 08-23-20 at 08:25 AM.
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My catch, a single wheel trailer for groceries and tours I plan on taking now that my time is open. $25 from CL. Being brought to me by a buddy later.
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Nice. How does it connect? Easy on, easy off?
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The forward dropouts spread to the width of the rear of the bike. The trailer dropout slips over the axle with a spring loaded catch closes around it. Have not seen it up close, going by product descriptions right now.
rear wheel has spring shocks to handle bumps. No sack apparently but a tub or freezer bags will work just fine in my case. This is a new biking adventure for me in my new reality.
rear wheel has spring shocks to handle bumps. No sack apparently but a tub or freezer bags will work just fine in my case. This is a new biking adventure for me in my new reality.
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So, I've been wanting a folding bike for ages. Don't know why but I love the idea of having a bike in the trunk of my car ready for a quick adventure in the beautiful county where I live. Last week, that little dream of mine became a reality...
I found a 1989 Peugeot Round-A-Bout (P20) on CL in decent condition and made a deal.
I can't think of anything better than having a Peugeot P20 to work on. Except maybe...
-Shin
I found a 1989 Peugeot Round-A-Bout (P20) on CL in decent condition and made a deal.
I can't think of anything better than having a Peugeot P20 to work on. Except maybe...
-Shin
Curious how you made out with your Peugeot Round-A-Bouts and what became of them? I picked up the exact same model on CL a week ago just south of Seattle. Those hideous pastel "splash" decals first appeared in 1989 and I'm not certain Pug made any P20s in the 90s, so all 3 bikes are the same year and model, in the same part of the country. I guess a Pug Distributor in the PNW took a large consignment of them.
Currently busy getting the 30 year old white wall rubber out of the rims before going after the Sturmy which is gummy but still functional. Been working on an early 70's Italian folder that I'm taking my sweet time with, when I saw the Pug at an excellent price. I decided to grab it so I'd having something fun to pedal around the neighborhood on with my kids while their classes are online. But now the air quality is brutal! ::cough::
Be well!
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Poprad
I did not pull from the dump or trash pile. I acquired from a gentleman that got it from his neighbors junk pile. I traded him even for a 55cm Poprad that was too big for me. This is a 52cm that is a terrific fit for me. The picture is after I stripped the bike to just the frame/fork, cleaned and polished it and rebuilt it with mostly 6500 components, open Pro wheels/ultegra hubs. I pulled the BB and headset, replaced the BB with new 5500, rebuilt the Cane Creek headset. Still hard for me to believe someone was going to trash such a nice bike.
Trash, junk? I think not.
Trash, junk? I think not.
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