3 leading 3 trailing
#1
my legs are carbon
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3 leading 3 trailing
Thinking of this pattern on a 36h front wheel, deep-V rim, and it would be my main training wheel. Is it strong enough or just flashy? I'm 210lbs and ride ~100mi per week.
If anyone has built one, did you use lacing suggested on spokeanwheel or lacing pattern from Rowland Cook?
Thanks.
If anyone has built one, did you use lacing suggested on spokeanwheel or lacing pattern from Rowland Cook?
Thanks.
#2
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I put one of these together a couple years ago and it has worked out well, although the rider is lighter than you. It was a 36h rear, you can see it on this bike:
https://velospace.org/node/11230
As far as strength goes you wouldn't be gaining any with this pattern, but it is still triple cross interlaced so I don't think you lose much either. Plus you are thinking about it for the front.
If you wanted the most durable wheel then the standard triple cross in probably the way to go, but if you are willing to chance it the build directions on this page (https://www.baldurdash.org/OtherStuff...3trailing.html) are good; seems to use the Rowland Cook style.
https://velospace.org/node/11230
As far as strength goes you wouldn't be gaining any with this pattern, but it is still triple cross interlaced so I don't think you lose much either. Plus you are thinking about it for the front.
If you wanted the most durable wheel then the standard triple cross in probably the way to go, but if you are willing to chance it the build directions on this page (https://www.baldurdash.org/OtherStuff...3trailing.html) are good; seems to use the Rowland Cook style.
Last edited by sfclearwater; 06-29-10 at 09:21 AM. Reason: spelling
#3
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for a front wheel, it will be fine.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#4
my legs are carbon
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I put one of these together a couple years ago and it has worked out well, although the rider is lighter than you. It was a 36h rear, you can see it on this bike:
https://velospace.org/node/11230
As far as strength goes you wouldn't be gaining any with this pattern, but it is still triple cross interlaced so I don't think you lose much either. Plus you are thinking about it for the font.
If you wanted the most durable wheel then the standard triple cross in probably the way to go, but if you are willing to chance it the build directions on this page (https://www.baldurdash.org/OtherStuff...3trailing.html) are good; seems to use the Rowland Cook style.
https://velospace.org/node/11230
As far as strength goes you wouldn't be gaining any with this pattern, but it is still triple cross interlaced so I don't think you lose much either. Plus you are thinking about it for the font.
If you wanted the most durable wheel then the standard triple cross in probably the way to go, but if you are willing to chance it the build directions on this page (https://www.baldurdash.org/OtherStuff...3trailing.html) are good; seems to use the Rowland Cook style.
I think I'll give it a go. The current 3x wheel is only a year old so I'll reuse the spokes and I'll get my fix of some new bike gear in lieu of not having any money. I think it'll be strong enough, especially for a front. In hindsight I probably should have gone with 32/36 or 28/32 anyway. Thanks.
#5
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Doesn't change the strength or integrity of the wheel...nor does it change the spoke length. The impact on the spoke interlaced twice is minimal...
However...
I strongly recommend using DT 2.0 or if going with a cheaper spoke 2.3/2.0 and making absolutely certain you get the tension WAY up where it belongs.
Because if you break 1/3 of spokes in a certain positon each - you'll have to de-tension the wheel in order to replace a spoke...practically a rebuild...unless you don't mind bending the hell out of particular spokes.
Haven't experienced it yet - but that was my analysis when building one.
I could be wrong but there - I posted it.
=8-)
However...
I strongly recommend using DT 2.0 or if going with a cheaper spoke 2.3/2.0 and making absolutely certain you get the tension WAY up where it belongs.
Because if you break 1/3 of spokes in a certain positon each - you'll have to de-tension the wheel in order to replace a spoke...practically a rebuild...unless you don't mind bending the hell out of particular spokes.
Haven't experienced it yet - but that was my analysis when building one.
I could be wrong but there - I posted it.
=8-)
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#6
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I've done both.
I have also built a couple "non-laced"
It is by far my favorite spoke pattern especially with high flange hubs.
You weight is not an issue if the wheel is well built.
I weigh about the same and have 16 spoke wheels.
Enjoy
I have also built a couple "non-laced"
It is by far my favorite spoke pattern especially with high flange hubs.
You weight is not an issue if the wheel is well built.
I weigh about the same and have 16 spoke wheels.
Enjoy
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One of the most visually distinctive patterns esp. with a high flange hub. Not so sure if it's good for rear -- I had a spoke break at one of the interleaves. Spoke tension also tends to be a bit uneven (the spokes in the middle of the group wind up with higher tension than the ones on the outside when you are done with radial true--this might be more pronounced with big flange hubs) It also seems to get knocked out of true more easily.
#8
my legs are carbon
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I'm no master wheelbuilder, but my first set (3x, 36h, deep V) are still true after 600+ miles. I just tensioned slowly and evenly until I would have rounded the nipple.
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This is kind of unrelated, but I'm also toying with the idea of lacing up a 24 front and 24 rear, also on Deep-V's. It seems there is a great divide over on the Clyde forum between the traditional minimum 32 spoke guys vs. those riding lower spoke counts with radial lacing, etc. So you would approve of a 24h rear on a deep rim?
I'm no master wheelbuilder, but my first set (3x, 36h, deep V) are still true after 600+ miles. I just tensioned slowly and evenly until I would have rounded the nipple.
I'm no master wheelbuilder, but my first set (3x, 36h, deep V) are still true after 600+ miles. I just tensioned slowly and evenly until I would have rounded the nipple.
I ride rural centuries, urban messenger races, and club rides (mostly FG).
I ride down steps, bunny hop curbs and potholes.
I also used to commute ~40 mi rt every day carrying a loaded mess bag.
I have never had a wheel fail unless I was hit by a car (4X), T-boned a large dog (1X) or the bike fell off a car rack and got hit by a semi. (1X).
So there's my sample of 1.
Sounds like you are doing it right.
Enjoy
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