Suggestions for doing my own Frankenbike?
06-26-19, 10:39 PM
#1
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Suggestions for doing my own Frankenbike?
Been thinking I want a new bike, but something inside of me is resisting going to the store and just picking something.
I’ve long done my own motorcycle and (very basic) bicycle maintenance, but I’ve never built a bike. Looking at my harem I have a mid 1980’s Cannondale police bike that is worn out. The frame is in good shape, but the rest of it needs a do-over.
Then I have the Giant TCR1 that I rarely ride anymore. The components are ultegra, and could be moved to the Cannondale frame.
My questions are several:
1. What tools would I need to do this chore?
2. Can any of you steer me to a well-produced YouTube series on bike mechanicking?
3. What other suggestions might be hidden in the resident brain trust?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
I’ve long done my own motorcycle and (very basic) bicycle maintenance, but I’ve never built a bike. Looking at my harem I have a mid 1980’s Cannondale police bike that is worn out. The frame is in good shape, but the rest of it needs a do-over.
Then I have the Giant TCR1 that I rarely ride anymore. The components are ultegra, and could be moved to the Cannondale frame.
My questions are several:
1. What tools would I need to do this chore?
2. Can any of you steer me to a well-produced YouTube series on bike mechanicking?
3. What other suggestions might be hidden in the resident brain trust?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
__________________
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
06-26-19, 11:20 PM
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Just do it! Learn and tool up as you go.
(Hint: Before doing anything else, measure the distance between the dropouts of your two bikes. Everything on a bike works together so mixing and matching parts can lead to some interesting problems for you to solve.)
I think you are embarking on a fun project.
(Hint: Before doing anything else, measure the distance between the dropouts of your two bikes. Everything on a bike works together so mixing and matching parts can lead to some interesting problems for you to solve.)
I think you are embarking on a fun project.
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06-27-19, 04:24 AM
#3
mechanically sound
I’d advise doing some reading of Sheldon Brown’s articles. Lots of good info there for diy bike stuff.
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06-27-19, 05:20 AM
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Look for a co-op nearby. The one I go to has multiple workbenches all stocked with specialty tools, plus other specialty tools you'd use once and awhile. You can rent a bench by the hour or purchase a years membership for something like $40-$60. The volunteers and employees that staff it are knowledgeable and can answer any question but you're required to do all the wrenching.
06-27-19, 06:32 AM
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IMO, the tools, basic allen wrenches, screwdrivers and maybe wrenches are neither esoteric nor expensive, so the only "bike-specific" items you need are for crank & bottom bracket removal (Park, about $10 each), a chain whip and cassette tool ($25 for the pair), possibly cable cutters (Park $25 or so) and you can continue to service your bike(s) from now on. Maybe, eventually you'll procure a bike stand, but you don't need one immediately.
06-27-19, 07:30 AM
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Thanks to all for the feedback. I'm starting to formulate a plan, and will look into the co-op thing.
It may be after Labor Day before I get started, but I'll take photos and update this once I get under way.
Thanks again, and best to all!
It may be after Labor Day before I get started, but I'll take photos and update this once I get under way.
Thanks again, and best to all!
__________________
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
06-27-19, 08:07 AM
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RJ the Bike Guy on YouTube. Lots of complete bike rebuilds, repurposing and makeovers.
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06-28-19, 12:46 AM
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Before doing anything, would be taking some basic measurements of dropouts on the Cannondale & Giant, if it's 126mm at the back, then you're going to run into issues (cold setting Aluminium, your choice, but many don't like the idea), 130mm will be fine, also the seat tube, and brake specs, may not be compatible between the 2 frames.
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06-28-19, 12:55 AM
#10
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You do you, but that seems like a strange choice. The TCR is a nice bike, why cannibalize it?
A lot can be accomplished with metric hex wrenches, a screwdriver, and some metric open wrenches, but you'll probably need appropriate bottom bracket tools, a chain tool, and cassette tool and chain whip.
You won't be able to put a modern cassette on the original Cannondale wheels probably. Getting a modern drivetrain on that bike may be a challenge. It is likely that the rear hub spacing is 130mm, which is the 6/7 mtb standard and the current road standard. Since the frame is aluminum it cannot be respaced. You may need to build a 26" rim to a road hub, or find a 135 spaced 26" wheel and remove 5mm of spacers and redish the wheel.
I recommend Sheldon Brown for general information and for reference, and Park tool for specific procedure instruction. The park site is nice because they have video as well as good, written descriptions with pictures.
A lot can be accomplished with metric hex wrenches, a screwdriver, and some metric open wrenches, but you'll probably need appropriate bottom bracket tools, a chain tool, and cassette tool and chain whip.
You won't be able to put a modern cassette on the original Cannondale wheels probably. Getting a modern drivetrain on that bike may be a challenge. It is likely that the rear hub spacing is 130mm, which is the 6/7 mtb standard and the current road standard. Since the frame is aluminum it cannot be respaced. You may need to build a 26" rim to a road hub, or find a 135 spaced 26" wheel and remove 5mm of spacers and redish the wheel.
I recommend Sheldon Brown for general information and for reference, and Park tool for specific procedure instruction. The park site is nice because they have video as well as good, written descriptions with pictures.
06-28-19, 08:27 AM
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When I read the title, I thought you were planning to build some weird cross-genre machine, like a fat-bike with Chorus 11, or a full-suspension road fixie. As it turns out, you're just building a bike. I did this for the first time back when friction shifting meant that component compatibility wasn't really an issue. and I have built every one of my bikes since. Ask questions, watch youtube, and don't spend money on any tool or component until you're absolutely sure it's right for its intended purpose.
06-28-19, 10:23 PM
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Excuse me?
1) Component comparability has ALWAYS been an issue. An aesthetic issue. One does not just throw random vintage parts on a frame from the days of toe clips just because they can function together. DA does not go on Italian bikes from the '70s. That is the very definition of a "Frankenbike" in it's most negative aspect.
2) Don't spend money on any tool or component until you're absolutely sure it's right for its intended purpose?
Say Whaaat? How is one ever going to make progress on N+1, if not by impulsively buying frames, calipers, cranks, derailleurs, and even bottom brackets, just because they might be wanted someday. And that leaves out whole bicycles and WHEELS, my God, how could you leave out wheels???
I bought my Litespeed Blade, a bare frame, because it was there. It went from having Spinergy wheels (off a Kestrel), to Zipp 400s, to a rear disc, to specialized tri-spoke wheels (now on that KKestrel) and currently sporting Corima carbon clinchers. Imagine it with a pair of Mad Fibers...
My point is, if I had not been infatuated with the beauty of these wheels, etc. I never would have put together or ridden (for a time) three very different world-class (in their day) TT bikes. I feel richer, and lucky for having done so.
Of course not all builds are as rewarding, but one adjusts and moves on. I bought a magnesium stem for the Litespeed, that was totally wrong. Beautiful as an object, but way to chunky. It found a home with someone else... That's the beauty of Frankenbikes.
Stay tubular, Eric
1) Component comparability has ALWAYS been an issue. An aesthetic issue. One does not just throw random vintage parts on a frame from the days of toe clips just because they can function together. DA does not go on Italian bikes from the '70s. That is the very definition of a "Frankenbike" in it's most negative aspect.
2) Don't spend money on any tool or component until you're absolutely sure it's right for its intended purpose?
Say Whaaat? How is one ever going to make progress on N+1, if not by impulsively buying frames, calipers, cranks, derailleurs, and even bottom brackets, just because they might be wanted someday. And that leaves out whole bicycles and WHEELS, my God, how could you leave out wheels???I bought my Litespeed Blade, a bare frame, because it was there. It went from having Spinergy wheels (off a Kestrel), to Zipp 400s, to a rear disc, to specialized tri-spoke wheels (now on that KKestrel) and currently sporting Corima carbon clinchers. Imagine it with a pair of Mad Fibers...
My point is, if I had not been infatuated with the beauty of these wheels, etc. I never would have put together or ridden (for a time) three very different world-class (in their day) TT bikes. I feel richer, and lucky for having done so.
Of course not all builds are as rewarding, but one adjusts and moves on. I bought a magnesium stem for the Litespeed, that was totally wrong. Beautiful as an object, but way to chunky. It found a home with someone else... That's the beauty of Frankenbikes.
Stay tubular, Eric
06-29-19, 05:06 AM
#14
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Hmm. I've begun the reading to fill in the gaps in my Swiss cheese body of knowledge - which at this point is more gaps than solid stuff...
@cpach, the motive in cannibalizing the TCR is to use what I have instead of laying out cash on something else.
@Litespud, thinking back on Thursday stop at an LBS, and after reading your comment, I realize I could have done better with the title! While at that shop I looked at a honest to goodness, no denying it "frankenbike" that the shop owner had assembled from the parts boxes in his store. The frame is a women's Trek; the seat came off of a Haro, and the mismatched wheels are of questionable lineage (but the new tires match). The cassette is a shiny silver and the triple up front is black. Dang, that thing personifies ugliness and beauty all in one glance. Point taken on the hyperbole.
The idea is evolving for me, but my interest is increasing daily. Speaking metaphorically, I know where I want to end up with the Cannondale, but getting there is the active question of the trip.
Thanks again to all.
@cpach, the motive in cannibalizing the TCR is to use what I have instead of laying out cash on something else.
@Litespud, thinking back on Thursday stop at an LBS, and after reading your comment, I realize I could have done better with the title! While at that shop I looked at a honest to goodness, no denying it "frankenbike" that the shop owner had assembled from the parts boxes in his store. The frame is a women's Trek; the seat came off of a Haro, and the mismatched wheels are of questionable lineage (but the new tires match). The cassette is a shiny silver and the triple up front is black. Dang, that thing personifies ugliness and beauty all in one glance. Point taken on the hyperbole.
The idea is evolving for me, but my interest is increasing daily. Speaking metaphorically, I know where I want to end up with the Cannondale, but getting there is the active question of the trip.
Thanks again to all.
__________________
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
06-30-19, 02:14 AM
#15
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You could just sell the tcr and buy parts that make sense for the cannondale. Less of a hobby project, but easier for compatibility and almost certain to result in a better functioning bike.
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07-25-19, 05:58 PM
#17
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Frankenbike idea is kaput. At least from the standpoint of pulling the parts off the Giant and moving them to the Cannondale frame.
The changeover would have taken more "creativity" that I wanted to deal with, and some of the mechanicking was above my pay-grade. Meanwhile, I ran up on a young man who really wanted a nice road bike. The TCR went to him, and the Cannondale has a tune up, new rubber, and several other helpful tweaks.
If the urge to tear something apart and/or build something stays with me, I'll snag a rescue case on the cheap at a garage sale and take that route.
Thanks to those who posted helpful insights and questions.
The changeover would have taken more "creativity" that I wanted to deal with, and some of the mechanicking was above my pay-grade. Meanwhile, I ran up on a young man who really wanted a nice road bike. The TCR went to him, and the Cannondale has a tune up, new rubber, and several other helpful tweaks.
If the urge to tear something apart and/or build something stays with me, I'll snag a rescue case on the cheap at a garage sale and take that route.
Thanks to those who posted helpful insights and questions.
__________________
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
Current bikes: Unknown year Specialized (rigid F & R) Hardrock, '80's era Cannondale police bike; '03 Schwinn mongrel MTB; '03 Specialized Hard Rock (the wife's)
Gone away: '97 Diamondback Topanga SE, '97 Giant ATX 840 project bike; '01 Giant TCR1 SL; and a truckload of miscellaneous bikes used up by the kids and grand-kids
Status quo is the mental bastion of the intellectually lethargic...
07-25-19, 06:45 PM
#18
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RJ the bike guy has some really good videos. Also Park Tools.com has a ton of info and videos. I used both of them rebuilding a bike for the first time this past winter. BikeForums members were extremely helpful and generous with knowledge on how to and tools needed. Pictures, always pictures, are a huge help to those trying to help you!
07-25-19, 07:50 PM
#19
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Old Japanese steel is the best for frankenbike builds. Stuff built after about 1986 is the best. Look for old Fuji's or Centurions with 6 or 7 speed rear cogs and 700c wheels. Plenty of new threaded parts available. If the rear OLD is 130mm you can slap a new RD w/brifters on it.
