Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Is a spacer above the stem necessary?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Is a spacer above the stem necessary?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-24-19, 02:06 PM
  #1  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Is a spacer above the stem necessary?

Picked up my Orbea Orca Aero yesterday. It was built by my LBS with a spacer above the stem (picture linked below). I don't know a ton about building bikes. Is this spacer necessary? I don't see anything in the manual.

Not really a huge deal at all, I'm just kind of anal and it's an aesthetic thing.

https://imgur.com/a/ccGMd0x
rodey is offline  
Old 08-24-19, 02:25 PM
  #2  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077

Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times in 972 Posts
You probably need that spacer - you need enough spacers+stem so that the top cap isn't resting on the steerer tube (steerer tube is part of the fork and what the stem clamps to).

The bike shop probably left the steerer tube a little long just to allow you to move the stem up a bit if you decide to. If you know the exact height you want the stem, you can cut the steerer tube to the appropriate length and not have any spacers on top of the stem, but don't cut the steerer tube until you're sure.
tyrion is offline  
Old 08-24-19, 02:58 PM
  #3  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,063

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4197 Post(s)
Liked 3,849 Times in 2,300 Posts
Add to the aboved is that carbon steerer's are more likely to crack is compressed near an edge. So by raising the steerer's end/edge further above the stem's upper pinch bolt the less likely this is. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 08-24-19, 03:46 PM
  #4  
alcjphil
Senior Member
 
alcjphil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,923
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1818 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times in 974 Posts
Think about it. Your stem is compressing a steer tube made of carbon fiber. If the top of the stem is above the top of the steer tube, pressure on the steer tube exerted by the top pinch bolt will not be evenly distributed at the top of the steer tube. There are expansion plugs that can mitigate this uneven compression, but if your bike manufacturer does not provide such a component you can take it for granted that they might not honour a warranty if you stray from their recommendations. I own a couple of Look bikes that require a spacer above the stem, but the spacer they provide is tapered providing a smooth transition into the top cap which I find to be quite appealing visually. That spacer above the stem on your bike is probably there for a reason. Before trying to rearrange it, make sure that the modifications you want will not void a warranty or, more important, put you in danger
alcjphil is online now  
Likes For alcjphil:
Old 08-24-19, 06:37 PM
  #5  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Thanks for the info. A review for the bike that I read had a picture of the same stem like so...

https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/insp..._290116001.jpg

That'd look better to me. At the end of the day it's not like it's a game changer or anything, but I would like that flush look more.

Would I just need to remove the top spacer and trim down the steerer tube that amount?

Not sure I even feel confident enough to do that, so I'll probably just leave it, but just would like to know the process.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-24-19, 07:31 PM
  #6  
curbtender
Senior Member
 
curbtender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,654

Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball

Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,579 Times in 1,221 Posts
You could find some of those wavey spacers and put them underneath.
curbtender is offline  
Old 08-24-19, 09:16 PM
  #7  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077

Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times in 972 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Thanks for the info. A review for the bike that I read had a picture of the same stem like so...

https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/insp..._290116001.jpg

That'd look better to me. At the end of the day it's not like it's a game changer or anything, but I would like that flush look more.

Would I just need to remove the top spacer and trim down the steerer tube that amount?

Not sure I even feel confident enough to do that, so I'll probably just leave it, but just would like to know the process.
Take your time, get a stem and handlebars you know you like, then cut the steerer tube.
tyrion is offline  
Old 08-24-19, 09:39 PM
  #8  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18369 Post(s)
Liked 4,507 Times in 3,350 Posts
I agree..

Teardrop aero spacers.
Then a round spacer on top... just looks funny.

As @tyrion said, get the spacing right the first time. Up/down adjustment? Then cut to length.

What you do want is the steer tube to fully support your stem, not to be cut off halfway up the stem.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 07:54 AM
  #9  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Given the initial position, I can't imagine I'd ever want to raise the stem more than it is. I'll wait a few rides though.

If I want to get it flush, I just need to mark the top of where the steerer tube is poking out and make the cut, correct?
rodey is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 09:07 AM
  #10  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 251 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Given the initial position, I can't imagine I'd ever want to raise the stem more than it is. I'll wait a few rides though.

If I want to get it flush, I just need to mark the top of where the steerer tube is poking out and make the cut, correct?
Yes, but do a little research - carbon fiber is a bit difficult to cut and special blades work best. There are stem-cutting guides available to ensure that the cut is square on the end but you can wrap the bar with tape to guide you in hand cutting.

If you are handy, do your homework first, and have the right tools, probably not a big deal. If not, should be pretty cheap at the LBS.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 10:31 AM
  #11  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Yes, but do a little research - carbon fiber is a bit difficult to cut and special blades work best. There are stem-cutting guides available to ensure that the cut is square on the end but you can wrap the bar with tape to guide you in hand cutting.

If you are handy, do your homework first, and have the right tools, probably not a big deal. If not, should be pretty cheap at the LBS.
Ah, so you think the LBS would cut it down? That'd probably be my preference. I guess for some reason I didn't know if they'd do it.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 11:00 AM
  #12  
gregf83 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 9,201
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1186 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times in 177 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Given the initial position, I can't imagine I'd ever want to raise the stem more than it is. I'll wait a few rides though.

If I want to get it flush, I just need to mark the top of where the steerer tube is poking out and make the cut, correct?
It's not difficult to cut a carbon steerer. A 32tpi hacksaw blade will make a nice clean cut. You can buy a guide to ensure a square cut or fashion something yourself with a pipe clamp or similar.

Before cutting I would get the correct instructions from Look or the stem manufacturer. Recommendations are not universal so best to get the actual instructions from the manufacturer.
gregf83 is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 11:13 AM
  #13  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by gregf83
It's not difficult to cut a carbon steerer. A 32tpi hacksaw blade will make a nice clean cut. You can buy a guide to ensure a square cut or fashion something yourself with a pipe clamp or similar.

Before cutting I would get the correct instructions from Look or the stem manufacturer. Recommendations are not universal so best to get the actual instructions from the manufacturer.
Do you know if those materials are usually readily available online? I can't find any specific specifications from Orbea anywhere in the manual.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 11:34 AM
  #14  
gregf83 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 9,201
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1186 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times in 177 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Do you know if those materials are usually readily available online? I can't find any specific specifications from Orbea anywhere in the manual.
Sorry, for some reason I thought it was a Look bike. If you can't find the instructions via a google search I would contact Orbea directly. I have an older Orbea MTB and needed some custom suspension parts and Orbea customer service was excellent. Just contact them through their website and they should be able to help you out.
gregf83 is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 12:49 PM
  #15  
WizardOfBoz
Generally bewildered
 
WizardOfBoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times in 251 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Ah, so you think the LBS would cut it down? That'd probably be my preference. I guess for some reason I didn't know if they'd do it.
Yeah, pretty sure that they would if you asked. As Greg points out you could use a fine-tooth hacksaw (or a carbide-grit hacksaw). A stainless pipeclamp or two (one on each side) works great. But if you don't have experience or a comfort level with a hacksaw then starting your hacksaw career on an expensive carbon fork is probably suboptimal. I suspect that the LBS will charge less than what it costs to buy a good hacksaw, so there's that.
WizardOfBoz is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 09:15 PM
  #16  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Cool. I'm going to give it a few more rides this week and the call to ask if they'll flush it out with the stem. I'm sure I could do it and be fine as long as I was cautious, but I'd prefer they do it.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-25-19, 10:28 PM
  #17  
conspiratemus1
Used to be Conspiratemus
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hamilton ON Canada
Posts: 1,512
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 297 Post(s)
Liked 245 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Cool. I'm going to give it a few more rides this week and the call to ask if they'll flush it out with the stem. I'm sure I could do it and be fine as long as I was cautious, but I'd prefer they do it.
The steerer is supposed to be cut so that it is a bit shorter than flush with the top of the stem, usually 3 mm but no more. This is so that when you preload that vertical stem screw the stem cap will for sure bear against the stem (thus holding the head set snug) and not just press uselessly against the top of the steerer and never clamp down the headset. At least those are the instructions that came with my old Alpha Q.

Also, manufacturers of carbon forks vary in whether they say, "Always put a spacer above the stem" or "Never put a spacer above the stem." Just wanting to prepare you for the shop possibly saying they have to leave it as it is.
conspiratemus1 is offline  
Old 08-26-19, 07:36 AM
  #18  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by conspiratemus1
The steerer is supposed to be cut so that it is a bit shorter than flush with the top of the stem, usually 3 mm but no more. This is so that when you preload that vertical stem screw the stem cap will for sure bear against the stem (thus holding the head set snug) and not just press uselessly against the top of the steerer and never clamp down the headset. At least those are the instructions that came with my old Alpha Q.

Also, manufacturers of carbon forks vary in whether they say, "Always put a spacer above the stem" or "Never put a spacer above the stem." Just wanting to prepare you for the shop possibly saying they have to leave it as it is.
Yeah, I already kind of thought of the scenario of the LBS coming back and saying that. I also emailed Orbea so I'm going to see what their recommendations are.

However in all the pictures from Orbea I can find with the standard stem, the steerer tube is sitting flush. Granted, they probably wouldn't want a 5mm spacer in marketing materials.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-26-19, 08:03 AM
  #19  
Sy Reene
Advocatus Diaboli
 
Sy Reene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,633

Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4731 Post(s)
Liked 1,531 Times in 1,002 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Yeah, I already kind of thought of the scenario of the LBS coming back and saying that. I also emailed Orbea so I'm going to see what their recommendations are.

However in all the pictures from Orbea I can find with the standard stem, the steerer tube is sitting flush. Granted, they probably wouldn't want a 5mm spacer in marketing materials.
I'm wondering, from one of the linked photos you provided, if there isn't pre-fabricated minimal spacer designed for this stem/bike.. basically providing the 2-3mm that typically gets recommended for how far below the cap the steerer tube should be. What is that hairline gap showing at the top of the stem clamp area that seems to go all the way around? I'm guessing the idea is you cut the steerer tube to fall where that hairline is?

Sy Reene is offline  
Old 08-26-19, 08:17 AM
  #20  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Sy Reene
I'm wondering, from one of the linked photos you provided, if there isn't pre-fabricated minimal spacer designed for this stem/bike.. basically providing the 2-3mm that typically gets recommended for how far below the cap the steerer tube should be. What is that hairline gap showing at the top of the stem clamp area that seems to go all the way around? I'm guessing the idea is you cut the steerer tube to fall where that hairline is?

Interesting. That seems like it could make sense.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-26-19, 02:55 PM
  #21  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Here's the response I got from Orbea. Bolded is the most relevant. Does the sentence regarding the top of the stem not extending above the top of the steerer tube mean having it flush like in the photo I linked is not recommended? Or am I missing something?

If your steerer tube is too long, we suggest taking it to your nearest Orbea dealer or bike shop for assistance. Without the proper tools and repair process, mistakes can be made when cutting a steerer tube and could potentially put the rider at risk once the fork is reinstalled onto the bike. This could also void the warranty on the fork and the bike.Having a trained, qualified bicycle mechanic cut the steerer tube normallywould not void the warranty on the fork or bike. We do suggest that there be no more than 30mm of headset spacers between the stem and the top headset cover and that the top of the stem does not extend above the top edge of a carbon steerer tube. Thanks again for your email. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
rodey is offline  
Old 08-27-19, 11:58 AM
  #22  
rodey
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Found another image of an Orca Aero with the same stem as I have: https://cdn.road.cc/sites/default/fi...?itok=m1zyHf3C

To me this image makes it seem like I may be out of luck in terms of getting a flush look, given Orbea's response?
rodey is offline  
Old 08-27-19, 12:24 PM
  #23  
AndreyT
Full Member
 
AndreyT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 244 Post(s)
Liked 55 Times in 30 Posts
Originally Posted by rodey
Picked up my Orbea Orca Aero yesterday. It was built by my LBS with a spacer above the stem (picture linked below). I don't know a ton about building bikes. Is this spacer necessary? I don't see anything in the manual.
It is as "necessary" as the top cap is "necessary".

When you are just assembling your headset and your stem bolts are still loose, this spacer is necessary, of course. This spacer is what transfers the pressure from top cap to the stem to preload the whole assembly. If you remove the spacer, the top cap will simply rest on top of the steerer and will not be able to preload anything. The whole principle on which the assembly/adjustment procedure for a threadless headset is based makes no sense without that spacer.

However, once you finished assembling your headset, i.e. once your stem bolts are already tightened all the way to spec, the top cap and the spacer are not necessary anymore. They are basically tools, which are used temporarily in the course of headset assembly/adjustment. After that they may remain there essentially "for storage", for aesthetic purposes and as a dust cover. You can remove them both, if you so desire, but I see no reason to do so (weight weenies might, though).

Last edited by AndreyT; 08-27-19 at 06:06 PM.
AndreyT is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
coldwaves
Bicycle Mechanics
35
09-20-17 01:33 PM
lineinthewater
Bicycle Mechanics
27
02-05-13 08:24 PM
MrSparkles
Fifty Plus (50+)
13
11-08-12 11:07 AM
RMMJ
Bicycle Mechanics
12
08-29-10 10:58 AM
cyclekolo
Bicycle Mechanics
9
03-18-10 07:27 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.