Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
09-20-20, 08:24 PM
#7801
aka Tom Reingold
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Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
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Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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@the sci guy, yes, you can spread a 120mm frame to 130mm. I've done it.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
09-21-20, 12:09 AM
#7802
bill nyecycles
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@the sci guy, yes, you can spread a 120mm frame to 130mm. I've done it.
09-21-20, 08:01 AM
#7803
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This bike has been evolving recently. I had it built with indexed downtube shifters, but I wasn't really happy with it. After much hand-wringing I finally gave in and replaced the white Serotta pantographed stem with one that lets me use my preferred handlebars (Soma HWY One) at the height and reach that's comfortable for me. While I was doing that, I decided to switch over to second generation Campy Ergo shifters and a 10-speed cassette. I also stepped up to 700x25 tires (the absolute widest that will fit). I rode it that way last weekend (before the apocalypse) and it was pretty good, but after 30 miles the saddle was feeling uncomfortable. Last night, a replacement saddle from eBay arrived. Switching from the titanium-railed Kevlar Selle Italia Flite to a hollow titanium-railed Specialized Toupe saved a whopping 55 grams. Now I'll really be able to climb on this bike! 
I can't wait until the air outside is safe to breath so I can get out and ride it. Until then, an inside of the garage door pic will have to suffice.
I can't wait until the air outside is safe to breath so I can get out and ride it. Until then, an inside of the garage door pic will have to suffice.
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09-21-20, 08:27 AM
#7804
aka Tom Reingold
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A few years ago, I started putting a ~126mm wheel in my 1971 Raleigh Super Course which was 120mm. It took a little effort, but I didn't bother cold setting it. Then recently, I wanted to run a 130mm wheel, and I couldn't get it in, even with a lot of effort. I cold set it myself.
I also had a mechanic cold set my 1974 Raleigh International from 120 to 130. That was in about 2015.
So basically, cold setting a frame from 120 to 130 isn't dangerous or complicated.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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09-21-20, 08:47 AM
#7805
bill nyecycles
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In the early 90s I had Peter Weigle, a frame builder, spread my 1982 McLean from 120 to 126. Since then, I've been putting a 130mm wheel in it, and it's been effortless. Maybe he really spread it to 128. I really should measure it. I might decide to spread it more, cold setting it.
A few years ago, I started putting a ~126mm wheel in my 1971 Raleigh Super Course which was 120mm. It took a little effort, but I didn't bother cold setting it. Then recently, I wanted to run a 130mm wheel, and I couldn't get it in, even with a lot of effort. I cold set it myself.
I also had a mechanic cold set my 1974 Raleigh International from 120 to 130. That was in about 2015.
So basically, cold setting a frame from 120 to 130 isn't dangerous or complicated.
A few years ago, I started putting a ~126mm wheel in my 1971 Raleigh Super Course which was 120mm. It took a little effort, but I didn't bother cold setting it. Then recently, I wanted to run a 130mm wheel, and I couldn't get it in, even with a lot of effort. I cold set it myself.
I also had a mechanic cold set my 1974 Raleigh International from 120 to 130. That was in about 2015.
So basically, cold setting a frame from 120 to 130 isn't dangerous or complicated.
09-21-20, 09:30 AM
#7806
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09-21-20, 11:47 AM
#7807
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Per Sheldon:
120 mm Rear - 5-speed, Ultra 6, newer track hubs. 126 mm Rear 6- and 7-speed (road).
130 mm Rear - 7-speed (MTB) and 8- 9- and 10-speed (road).
11 speed is also 130mm. Not sure about 12 speed hubs.
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09-23-20, 04:40 PM
#7808
aka Tom Reingold
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I finally finished my 1971 Raleigh Super Course. I installed a new Claris 2x8 drivetrain, dynamo lights, and Brooks Cambium handlebar tape.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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09-23-20, 10:42 PM
#7809
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A claw is easy to find and will do ya. https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sunrace...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
11-17-20, 12:54 AM
#7811
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I pilfered a load of bits from this bike to build my MX Leader a while back, and last weekend I finished building it up again with some new parts. Columbus SL Gilco teardrop tubing in the main triangle, nice spearpoint lugs and Denti's signature ladybirds. Running 10 speed Campagnolo, semi compact 52/36 chainset, 3T bars. stem and seat post, 25c tyres with latex tubes.
Fastback seat stays
Classic steel looks with modern kit, and a really smooth ride.
Fastback seat stays
Classic steel looks with modern kit, and a really smooth ride.
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11-17-20, 11:49 AM
#7812
bill nyecycles
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Can I assume it's not too much of an issue to take a late 80's 6-speed with 126 spacing and slot in a 130mm hub/wheel to mount some more modern mech? probably just a manual spread since its only 2mm on each side?
11-17-20, 12:20 PM
#7813
Sunshine
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But the internet is full of examples where this wasnt done and everything works fine. Ive have 2 frames that I didnt cold set and both have felt perfectly fine in terms of alignment.
The only downside to not cold setting is that pulling the wheel and replacing it is more difficult when compared to a 130mm spaced dropout. So it takes another 20 seconds to pull the stays apart and finagle the wheel into place.
11-17-20, 01:07 PM
#7814
bill nyecycles
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Ideally, the frame is cold set to 130mm and the dropouts are realigned so they are parallel when spread to 130mm.
But the internet is full of examples where this wasnt done and everything works fine. Ive have 2 frames that I didnt cold set and both have felt perfectly fine in terms of alignment.
The only downside to not cold setting is that pulling the wheel and replacing it is more difficult when compared to a 130mm spaced dropout. So it takes another 20 seconds to pull the stays apart and finagle the wheel into place.
But the internet is full of examples where this wasnt done and everything works fine. Ive have 2 frames that I didnt cold set and both have felt perfectly fine in terms of alignment.
The only downside to not cold setting is that pulling the wheel and replacing it is more difficult when compared to a 130mm spaced dropout. So it takes another 20 seconds to pull the stays apart and finagle the wheel into place.
so I can put a modern wheel with a 105 hub/cassette and groupset on it then, ok. next question - i assume there's no issue with using a 105 front derailleur with the original shimano 600 crankset - i mean, they operate independently anyway but sometimes mixing old and new is a cautionary tale....
11-17-20, 01:43 PM
#7815
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Ideally, the frame is cold set to 130mm and the dropouts are realigned so they are parallel when spread to 130mm.
But the internet is full of examples where this wasnt done and everything works fine. Ive have 2 frames that I didnt cold set and both have felt perfectly fine in terms of alignment.
The only downside to not cold setting is that pulling the wheel and replacing it is more difficult when compared to a 130mm spaced dropout. So it takes another 20 seconds to pull the stays apart and finagle the wheel into place.
But the internet is full of examples where this wasnt done and everything works fine. Ive have 2 frames that I didnt cold set and both have felt perfectly fine in terms of alignment.
The only downside to not cold setting is that pulling the wheel and replacing it is more difficult when compared to a 130mm spaced dropout. So it takes another 20 seconds to pull the stays apart and finagle the wheel into place.
https://youtu.be/73xSZJIsV_M?t=79
11-17-20, 07:05 PM
#7816
Master Parts Rearranger
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I think I can handle that.
so I can put a modern wheel with a 105 hub/cassette and groupset on it then, ok. next question - i assume there's no issue with using a 105 front derailleur with the original shimano 600 crankset - i mean, they operate independently anyway but sometimes mixing old and new is a cautionary tale....
so I can put a modern wheel with a 105 hub/cassette and groupset on it then, ok. next question - i assume there's no issue with using a 105 front derailleur with the original shimano 600 crankset - i mean, they operate independently anyway but sometimes mixing old and new is a cautionary tale....
Shimano has employed the same 43.5mm front chainline dimension on their cranksets for decades, so just about regardless of FD and crankset combo, as long as the chainline is close, it'll be fine. And I'm talking about with STI shifters. With downtube shifters, it pretty much doesn't matter.
11-17-20, 08:08 PM
#7817
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I went the other way, Had a custom built in 2008 with "braze-on' (weld-ons) for SunTour Superbe tom mounted DT friction shifters to shift Campy 9-speed. Why? Because I know how to shift DTs, I love the top mounted shifters because I don't hit them with my knee climbing walls out of the saddle. Had the Superbes. (Didn't know what they were; just that they were SunTour, fit the bill and seemed to work well.) 14k miles later, still love 'em.
Brigfters, They take me to Charles Brown's "Briftin' Blues", done later by Paul Butterfield as "Brifting and Brifting"
Brigfters, They take me to Charles Brown's "Briftin' Blues", done later by Paul Butterfield as "Brifting and Brifting"
11-17-20, 08:27 PM
#7818
Shifting is fun!
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Hey all,
Figured this was the best place to ask for input on modernizing my mid 80's Raleigh. It's currently a single speed, but I would like to put some brifters, and make it 2xSomething? But I don't know if i can.
Pic of the bike is below. rear spacing is 120, 68mm BB, but no derailleur hanger on the rear dropout. Is it even possible with rear spacing that narrow without having to go through the trouble of expanding the frame to fit modern sized cassettes? (this was only a 10 speed originally)
If it's even possible, I need help finding nice silver/stainless components. I'm not sure something like a 105 crank would look good on such a narrow tubed vintage bike, but I'd like some quality level components. I think it's even hard to find the silver 105 crank anyway? Want the shifting to be indexed as well, obviously since i want to put brifters on.
I'm taking any and all suggestions if anyone thinks it's possible.
Thanks!
Figured this was the best place to ask for input on modernizing my mid 80's Raleigh. It's currently a single speed, but I would like to put some brifters, and make it 2xSomething? But I don't know if i can.
Pic of the bike is below. rear spacing is 120, 68mm BB, but no derailleur hanger on the rear dropout. Is it even possible with rear spacing that narrow without having to go through the trouble of expanding the frame to fit modern sized cassettes? (this was only a 10 speed originally)
If it's even possible, I need help finding nice silver/stainless components. I'm not sure something like a 105 crank would look good on such a narrow tubed vintage bike, but I'd like some quality level components. I think it's even hard to find the silver 105 crank anyway? Want the shifting to be indexed as well, obviously since i want to put brifters on.
I'm taking any and all suggestions if anyone thinks it's possible.
Thanks!
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11-17-20, 08:46 PM
#7819
aka Tom Reingold
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__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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11-21-20, 06:13 PM
#7821
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New update for the SLT.
5800 11 speed shifters & derailleurs
Velo Orange 48/34 crank
Soma Highway One handlebar
Ripped around for 45 miles today, it's like a brand new bike!
5800 11 speed shifters & derailleurs
Velo Orange 48/34 crank
Soma Highway One handlebar
Ripped around for 45 miles today, it's like a brand new bike!
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11-21-20, 06:53 PM
#7822
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11-21-20, 09:21 PM
#7824
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11-21-20, 09:48 PM
#7825
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