Looking for any information on Jamis Coda from 91’?
#1
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Looking for any information on Jamis Coda from 91’?
Hey all. Bear with me for I’m new here. I’ve owned many bikes over the years, but recently was gifted a bicycle that had been sitting in my grandmothers garage for quite a few years. I intend to disassemble and clean, lube, and repair/replace most of the parts. The bike currently works as is, and quite well given it almost being 30 yrs old, but has a bit of scuffing and minor surface rust I’d like to take care of.
Anyways. The interesting thing is I haven’t been able to find any information whatsoever online In regards to this model/year bike. Not an image, or catalog document. I’m hoping the community here will have an idea or any info. The only thing I’ve found is that on Jamis’s website history, they say the bike rolled off the line along with the tange in 1991. See below information on my bike. Sorry I can’t attach photos given I’m a newbie. Thank you for any and all help in advance! Serial Number under crank F9089044 (Stamp)
Make/Model-Jamis Coda (frame stickers)
-Ritchey grips,
-Suntour ergotech shifter (21 speed)
-Ritchey logic headset
-Suntour XC LTD brakes
-Suntour rims/Araya Japan 700C-WO-VX-300
-Suntour X1 derailer- accushift plus
-Suntour XCE Crank
Sticker near bottom tube says - CR:MO Tubing/ Tange MTB /triple butted tubes
Anyways. The interesting thing is I haven’t been able to find any information whatsoever online In regards to this model/year bike. Not an image, or catalog document. I’m hoping the community here will have an idea or any info. The only thing I’ve found is that on Jamis’s website history, they say the bike rolled off the line along with the tange in 1991. See below information on my bike. Sorry I can’t attach photos given I’m a newbie. Thank you for any and all help in advance! Serial Number under crank F9089044 (Stamp)
Make/Model-Jamis Coda (frame stickers)
-Ritchey grips,
-Suntour ergotech shifter (21 speed)
-Ritchey logic headset
-Suntour XC LTD brakes
-Suntour rims/Araya Japan 700C-WO-VX-300
-Suntour X1 derailer- accushift plus
-Suntour XCE Crank
Sticker near bottom tube says - CR:MO Tubing/ Tange MTB /triple butted tubes
#2
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What do you want to know about it?
The Coda's are very nice steel hybrids and definitely worth tuning up and keeping if it fits you. These old steel hybrids are under appreciated and make good do everything bikes. I put drop bars on an old Mongoose Crossway and it was a really fun bike.
The Coda's are very nice steel hybrids and definitely worth tuning up and keeping if it fits you. These old steel hybrids are under appreciated and make good do everything bikes. I put drop bars on an old Mongoose Crossway and it was a really fun bike.
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#3
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What do you want to know about it?
The Coda's are very nice steel hybrids and definitely worth tuning up and keeping if it fits you. These old steel hybrids are under appreciated and make good do everything bikes. I put drop bars on an old Mongoose Crossway and it was a really fun bike.
The Coda's are very nice steel hybrids and definitely worth tuning up and keeping if it fits you. These old steel hybrids are under appreciated and make good do everything bikes. I put drop bars on an old Mongoose Crossway and it was a really fun bike.
Well I find it odd I haven’t been able to locate any other owners on the web, nor any catalog info on the bicycle. I was hoping for pointers on working on it. I’d like to swap for drop bars as well and change out the stem. Also going to change the shifters and possibly crank. From what I gather all the parts are pretty standard for the time frame. I don’t mind spending the money on updating everything given the frame is in amazing shape. From what I can tell everything on the bike is original minus the seat. Without any data from a catalog or another owner with the bike, I’m not sure if what I have is original though.
I’m looking at a budget somewhere around $500. I’d like to update as much as I can, but being my first restore, knowing what parts will work for the frame is a tricky beast. The bike rides well and mechanically functions properly, but I’d like to update as much as I can given I’ll be using it regularly now.
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You don’t need to know much about the original parts in order to upgrade it. Most things like threadings are standardized, and for dimensions that have a lot of variability like seat posts, just look at what’s on it now to get the size.
Jamis is a relatively small volume brand, so there probably aren’t a lot of catalogs around, and it would just be luck if someone scanned one for the year you need.
You’ve got a great bike there that will upgrade nicely.
Jamis is a relatively small volume brand, so there probably aren’t a lot of catalogs around, and it would just be luck if someone scanned one for the year you need.
You’ve got a great bike there that will upgrade nicely.
#5
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You don’t need to know much about the original parts in order to upgrade it. Most things like threadings are standardized, and for dimensions that have a lot of variability like seat posts, just look at what’s on it now to get the size.
Jamis is a relatively small volume brand, so there probably aren’t a lot of catalogs around, and it would just be luck if someone scanned one for the year you need.
You’ve got a great bike there that will upgrade nicely.
Jamis is a relatively small volume brand, so there probably aren’t a lot of catalogs around, and it would just be luck if someone scanned one for the year you need.
You’ve got a great bike there that will upgrade nicely.
Yeah the bike has good bones and components all still function quite well. I’d just like to update it a bit so I know for sure I won’t be stuck somewhere down the road with a failed component. Is there a particular brand I should be looking into for aftermarket parts that would fit this model bike that won’t break the bank? I’d like to keep it under 500 if I can. The wheels are in good shape and not bent up and new tires were already completed. I’m unsure as to the spokes and whether they were adjusted. I hear mixed reviews on tightening them if they are original given they break quite easily with age. Thanks for your help too! Appreciated. I also shot an email out to Jamis to see what info they may have on the bike. If anything comes of it worth sharing, I’ll be sure to update.
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The only thing you’d need calipers for is the seatpost, but the size is likely written on the one that’s in there now. Everything else will be a standard size and standard threading. For example, there are a few different standards for bottom brackets, but one was much more common and would definitely be what’s on your bike. Same for headset.
For parts, figure out what you want (for example how many gears and what range, whether you want combined brake and shift levers or not, etc) and then people can point you to specific parts.
For parts, figure out what you want (for example how many gears and what range, whether you want combined brake and shift levers or not, etc) and then people can point you to specific parts.
#7
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The only thing you’d need calipers for is the seatpost, but the size is likely written on the one that’s in there now. Everything else will be a standard size and standard threading. For example, there are a few different standards for bottom brackets, but one was much more common and would definitely be what’s on your bike. Same for headset.
For parts, figure out what you want (for example how many gears and what range, whether you want combined brake and shift levers or not, etc) and then people can point you to specific parts.
For parts, figure out what you want (for example how many gears and what range, whether you want combined brake and shift levers or not, etc) and then people can point you to specific parts.
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The subject bicycle was contract manufactured by Fairly of Taiwan during August 1989. That's in the transition area where it could be either a 1989 or 1990 model. While I don't have any 1989-1990 Jamis literature, I do have the 1991 price list which states the Coda used a mixture if SunTour XC Ltd and X-1 that year. XCE is era correct, so it's likely OEM. I'm leaning towards 1990, as 1989 was very early for hybrids.
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Rnroll If the bike is rideable, shifts, stops tires hold air and look passable then ride it before you tear it down, does it fit, do you like it, are there things you might want to change. I mention this as I have more than once done a lot of work on a bike only to find it didn't really fit when I did my riding after I fixed it up. Once you have 10 posts come back and post some pictures of your bike. Or you can post them now to the gallery. Welcome to the forums lots of good info here and on youtube regarding fixing up your old bike (RJ the bike guy, Park Tools) .Sheldon Brown on the web. Have fun.
#10
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The subject bicycle was contract manufactured by Fairly of Taiwan during August 1989. That's in the transition area where it could be either a 1989 or 1990 model. While I don't have any 1989-1990 Jamis literature, I do have the 1991 price list which states the Coda used a mixture if SunTour XC Ltd and X-1 that year. XCE is era correct, so it's likely OEM. I'm leaning towards 1990, as 1989 was very early for hybrids.
#11
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Rnroll If the bike is rideable, shifts, stops tires hold air and look passable then ride it before you tear it down, does it fit, do you like it, are there things you might want to change. I mention this as I have more than once done a lot of work on a bike only to find it didn't really fit when I did my riding after I fixed it up. Once you have 10 posts come back and post some pictures of your bike. Or you can post them now to the gallery. Welcome to the forums lots of good info here and on youtube regarding fixing up your old bike (RJ the bike guy, Park Tools) .Sheldon Brown on the web. Have fun.
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There are some drop bar conversions in this thread. It should give you some ideas of what you need and where you want to go with the Coda.
Hybrids
Hybrids
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This is getting really interesting. The subject bicycle is sporting the SunTour ES Ergotec Shifters. These are a dying effort from SunTour in the mid-1990s and the Coda was Shimano equipped as of 1992, so the bicycle has obviously been already been modified to some extent.
Too many photos (10) for an assist, so here's the link to the gallery album: https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/525991
I neglected to mention earlier that the MSRP on the 1991 Coda was $575 US and that it was the top of three hybrid models that year.
Too many photos (10) for an assist, so here's the link to the gallery album: https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/525991
I neglected to mention earlier that the MSRP on the 1991 Coda was $575 US and that it was the top of three hybrid models that year.
#14
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This is getting really interesting. The subject bicycle is sporting the SunTour ES Ergotec Shifters. These are a dying effort from SunTour in the mid-1990s and the Coda was Shimano equipped as of 1992, so the bicycle has obviously been already been modified to some extent.
Too many photos (10) for an assist, so here's the link to the gallery album: (link omitted because still a newbie and cant repost urls)
I neglected to mention earlier that the MSRP on the 1991 Coda was $575 US and that it was the top of three hybrid models that year.
Too many photos (10) for an assist, so here's the link to the gallery album: (link omitted because still a newbie and cant repost urls)
I neglected to mention earlier that the MSRP on the 1991 Coda was $575 US and that it was the top of three hybrid models that year.
Is this frame considered to be a MTB frame given it has a wider top tube and vertical tube then? I intend to use it has a commuter bike through the city anyway and it seems once I swap out some of the components. It'd make a good conversion.
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Interesting! So it was updated within the first couple years of ownership then is what you’re saying. Do you happen to know what the original Shimano components were when it was released?
Is this frame considered to be a MTB frame given it has a wider top tube and vertical tube then? I intend to use it has a commuter bike through the city anyway and it seems once I swap out some of the components. It'd make a good conversion.
Is this frame considered to be a MTB frame given it has a wider top tube and vertical tube then? I intend to use it has a commuter bike through the city anyway and it seems once I swap out some of the components. It'd make a good conversion.
I've never seen a Coda that was an ATB. At the time ATBs and Hybrids were similar with the major distinguishing factor being wheel size. Hybrids used 700C, while ATBs use 26". Both ATBs and Hybrids can make excellent commuters.
#16
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A stated previously, I believe this to be a 1990 model manufactured in late 1989. I don't think that it was ever Shimano equipped. Most likely, the original SunTour Accushift X-Press shift levers broke after several years use. The previous owner likely replaced them replaced them with the SunTour ES Ergotec Shifters to prevent having to change the derailleurs and freewheel, as SunTour's Accushift indexing was incompatible with Shimano.
I've never seen a Coda that was an ATB. At the time ATBs and Hybrids were similar with the major distinguishing factor being wheel size. Hybrids used 700C, while ATBs use 26". Both ATBs and Hybrids can make excellent commuters.
I've never seen a Coda that was an ATB. At the time ATBs and Hybrids were similar with the major distinguishing factor being wheel size. Hybrids used 700C, while ATBs use 26". Both ATBs and Hybrids can make excellent commuters.
#18
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Jamis emailed me back regarding the bike. After reviewing. The only information they could give me that indeed it is a 1991. He said that it predates the Jamis computer system . To be expected, but was hoping for something. I believe it is fillet brazed given it’s clean around termination. I just moved so I’ll pull it out shortly to reassemble and take a closer look.
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#19
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Would anyone here happen to know where I could locate a replacement 26.6 seat post? My original is in fine shape, but I'm looking for a new one. Preferably Black finish. I don't mind paying a decent price to someone who may have one kicking around the garage. I've already located a new saddle I'm going to utilize. If I can't source one, it may be a spray paint and wait till one becomes available online.
Also, I saw the marketplace, but didn't have permission to post this so figured I'd give it a shot here. Thanks all!
Also, I saw the marketplace, but didn't have permission to post this so figured I'd give it a shot here. Thanks all!
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Nice score!
Many, if not most, of the 1st generation hybrid bikes used touring-bike frames. The hybrid fad happened very quickly and caught most manufacturers by surprise. The quickest way to jump on the train was to take your existing touring frameset, put flat bars, MTB components, and 700c semi-knobbies on it, and call it a hybrid. The only new thing you had to make was a few decals, and you were good to go.
Yours even had better parts than yer' averidge hybrid did, putting it in the upper levels of the breed.
As far as working on it, don't sweat it at all. Nothing about the frame is going to be weird. You could reach into a bag filled with the last 30 years of MTB and touring parts, blindfolded, and almost anything you grabbed would fit your bike.
The parts on the bike do have a few comaptibility issues with newer parts, because Suntour went out of business not long after your bike was made. The Suntour derailleurs won't index with non-Suntour levers, so your shifter options are A) Scrounge E-Bay for SUntour Accushift stuff and pay through the nose for it or B) shift in friction and buy whatever you want. If the rear hub is a Suntour freehub, when the cassette wears out, you'll be buying a new rear wheel. Suntour cassettes are pure unobtanium. If it's a freewheel hub, you're fine, any non-weirdly-French freewheel will fit it. Those are the only snags I can think of.
Hope that helps ya!
--Shannon
Many, if not most, of the 1st generation hybrid bikes used touring-bike frames. The hybrid fad happened very quickly and caught most manufacturers by surprise. The quickest way to jump on the train was to take your existing touring frameset, put flat bars, MTB components, and 700c semi-knobbies on it, and call it a hybrid. The only new thing you had to make was a few decals, and you were good to go.
Yours even had better parts than yer' averidge hybrid did, putting it in the upper levels of the breed.
As far as working on it, don't sweat it at all. Nothing about the frame is going to be weird. You could reach into a bag filled with the last 30 years of MTB and touring parts, blindfolded, and almost anything you grabbed would fit your bike.
The parts on the bike do have a few comaptibility issues with newer parts, because Suntour went out of business not long after your bike was made. The Suntour derailleurs won't index with non-Suntour levers, so your shifter options are A) Scrounge E-Bay for SUntour Accushift stuff and pay through the nose for it or B) shift in friction and buy whatever you want. If the rear hub is a Suntour freehub, when the cassette wears out, you'll be buying a new rear wheel. Suntour cassettes are pure unobtanium. If it's a freewheel hub, you're fine, any non-weirdly-French freewheel will fit it. Those are the only snags I can think of.
Hope that helps ya!
--Shannon
#22
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Thread Starter
Nice score!
Many, if not most, of the 1st generation hybrid bikes used touring-bike frames. The hybrid fad happened very quickly and caught most manufacturers by surprise. The quickest way to jump on the train was to take your existing touring frameset, put flat bars, MTB components, and 700c semi-knobbies on it, and call it a hybrid. The only new thing you had to make was a few decals, and you were good to go.
Yours even had better parts than yer' averidge hybrid did, putting it in the upper levels of the breed.
As far as working on it, don't sweat it at all. Nothing about the frame is going to be weird. You could reach into a bag filled with the last 30 years of MTB and touring parts, blindfolded, and almost anything you grabbed would fit your bike.
The parts on the bike do have a few comaptibility issues with newer parts, because Suntour went out of business not long after your bike was made. The Suntour derailleurs won't index with non-Suntour levers, so your shifter options are A) Scrounge E-Bay for SUntour Accushift stuff and pay through the nose for it or B) shift in friction and buy whatever you want. If the rear hub is a Suntour freehub, when the cassette wears out, you'll be buying a new rear wheel. Suntour cassettes are pure unobtanium. If it's a freewheel hub, you're fine, any non-weirdly-French freewheel will fit it. Those are the only snags I can think of.
Hope that helps ya!
--Shannon
Many, if not most, of the 1st generation hybrid bikes used touring-bike frames. The hybrid fad happened very quickly and caught most manufacturers by surprise. The quickest way to jump on the train was to take your existing touring frameset, put flat bars, MTB components, and 700c semi-knobbies on it, and call it a hybrid. The only new thing you had to make was a few decals, and you were good to go.
Yours even had better parts than yer' averidge hybrid did, putting it in the upper levels of the breed.
As far as working on it, don't sweat it at all. Nothing about the frame is going to be weird. You could reach into a bag filled with the last 30 years of MTB and touring parts, blindfolded, and almost anything you grabbed would fit your bike.
The parts on the bike do have a few comaptibility issues with newer parts, because Suntour went out of business not long after your bike was made. The Suntour derailleurs won't index with non-Suntour levers, so your shifter options are A) Scrounge E-Bay for SUntour Accushift stuff and pay through the nose for it or B) shift in friction and buy whatever you want. If the rear hub is a Suntour freehub, when the cassette wears out, you'll be buying a new rear wheel. Suntour cassettes are pure unobtanium. If it's a freewheel hub, you're fine, any non-weirdly-French freewheel will fit it. Those are the only snags I can think of.
Hope that helps ya!
--Shannon