bikemig 

I'm rebuilding a Belgian made Libertas bicycle likely from the early 70s (perhaps early 60s). The adjustment screw was rusted and broke as I tried to unscrew it. It is not frozen.

The easy peasy solution is to ignore it. I'm going to run 32c tires on this bike and sitting the wheel back a bit further in the drop out is not a bad thing.

Still I'd like to replace it if possible. Ideas?

Not a great picture but you get the idea:

Crankycrank

First try cutting a slot in the exposed end with a hacksaw and use a screwdriver to back it out. Probably be wise to put some penetrating oil on it for a day or so to make it easier to unscrew.

Vintage_Cyclist

I had one of those break off on an Ironman, the same way. I used a needle nose vise grip pliers to grab the end in the drop-out slot and turn it out from the slot side. Came right out.

dedhed

https://www.google.com/search?q=remo...w=1366&bih=610

Lemond1985

New screw? Ten dollar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dropout-adj...gAAMXQdx5RGN5P

3alarmer 

...I have carefully drilled out a couple of them with a very small diameter drill bit, and then used a 3mm tap to retap the hole and push out any remainders of the original screw, but it's a lot of work. Try the other suggestions about removal before you go this route.

If you screw up badly, you can always tap it out larger to accept a 4 mm machine screw, but you can't usually go any larger than that. And it probably weakens the dropout a little if you make the hole larger.

dedhed

I just go to the hardware store and get stainless screw, acorn nut, and a spring for a lot cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/p/uxcell-M3-X-4...Pcs/1263452874

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2448/204814143

bikemig 

That's a winner in terms of price for a replacement for sure.

bikemig 

I like any solution that involves buying new tools. The piece in the drop out is not frozen so finding the right set of mini needle nose pliers should do the trick.

Vintage_Cyclist

I used a 6" pair of pliers, this one specifically - https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GR.../dp/B00004YO5N

Attack the screw by attaching the pliers along the length of the screw, not perpendicular to the screw. The slot limits the amount you can turn it, maybe a 1/4 turn at a time, so you have to reattach the pliers a few times while doing it.

fietsbob

I broke off the rest, and got along without it .. no racing pace wheel changes , so it does not matter..

79pmooney

I just go to a local hardware store and get nice SS screws and nuts. Drive in from the rear, going through the nut first. Use the nut as a locknut. Works. 50 cents?

79pmooney

Anytime you can keep one of the screws, you hae a much simpler task of locating and centering the wheel. With just one, you simple force the wheel back with your left hand on tire at the chainstay until it hits that screw, center the tire and close the release. Having a completely free wheel is a lot harderto both locate and center.

Ben

fietsbob

<C> long slot dropouts on my mid 70's DIY ,self Built, light Touring bike frame,

and another set used for a repair of an old Stumpie.. * I've never had a problem ..


*never put any in ..

Just don't have many wheel changes to do..