Torpado Troubles - Opinions Needed!
08-12-18, 04:50 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Torpado Troubles - Opinions Needed!
Hi everyone!
I bought a 1985 Tropado over this weekend. The gentleman I bought it from did a fine job refurbishing it. It rides great and everything is pristine. What a great birthday gift for myself
When test riding, I was a little uncomfortable with the handlebars, but I figure this was a case of "Hanna's been rising on flat bars for 5 years, we just need to adjust". Maybe also a bit of "The last bike with drops I rode was my 6'3" brother's bike, so I probably just don't know what a good fit is!"
I took a short ride today, and I think the fit is a bit off in the brakes area. I struggle to reach the levers and get a good squeeze. It makes stopping cumbersome, and is honestly messing with my confidence a bit. I'm thinking of a few options.
1 - new bars & levers. Something with a shorter drop, levers that fit in a little closer
2 - just new levers. A set with a flatter top and bring in the lever.
I was initially thinking the stem was part of it, but I don't know now. I think the main issue is the drop & levers.
Below are a couple photos of the fit! I look forward to thoughts & opinions.
I bought a 1985 Tropado over this weekend. The gentleman I bought it from did a fine job refurbishing it. It rides great and everything is pristine. What a great birthday gift for myself
When test riding, I was a little uncomfortable with the handlebars, but I figure this was a case of "Hanna's been rising on flat bars for 5 years, we just need to adjust". Maybe also a bit of "The last bike with drops I rode was my 6'3" brother's bike, so I probably just don't know what a good fit is!"
I took a short ride today, and I think the fit is a bit off in the brakes area. I struggle to reach the levers and get a good squeeze. It makes stopping cumbersome, and is honestly messing with my confidence a bit. I'm thinking of a few options.
1 - new bars & levers. Something with a shorter drop, levers that fit in a little closer
2 - just new levers. A set with a flatter top and bring in the lever.
I was initially thinking the stem was part of it, but I don't know now. I think the main issue is the drop & levers.
Below are a couple photos of the fit! I look forward to thoughts & opinions.
08-12-18, 05:21 PM
#2
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,050
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 820 Post(s)
Liked 185 Times
in
87 Posts
First thing I would do is rotate the handlebar so that the top section is fairly flat. That will raise the brake levers an inch at least, and give you a long flat place to rest your hands.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
08-12-18, 06:02 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I did that initially, but I found I was still pretty uncomfortable. The drops were at too extreme of an angle and I was still having issues getting a good grip around the levers.
08-12-18, 06:18 PM
#4
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,050
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 820 Post(s)
Liked 185 Times
in
87 Posts
When you brake, are you able to brake from the tops or do you need to get under the lever body to get sufficient strength?
I find that using older bars with the tops flat work well, but I have strong hands and I can pretty easily brake from the tops. This picture shows an example. I rarely get into the drops unless I am shifting. If this does not work for you, then I agree some different bars might give you the comfort you need.
I find that using older bars with the tops flat work well, but I have strong hands and I can pretty easily brake from the tops. This picture shows an example. I rarely get into the drops unless I am shifting. If this does not work for you, then I agree some different bars might give you the comfort you need.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
08-12-18, 06:48 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have to get at the brakes from below -- it's almost impossible for me to brake from the hoods. At first, I thought the issue was the angle of the stem, but even playing with the tilt of the bars isn't making much of a difference. I think the main issue is the length of the gap between the bar and the lever.
Honestly, I have pretty small hands. It would probably be best to start with a new bar set and maybe a brake set that has an adjustable length on the lever.
Honestly, I have pretty small hands. It would probably be best to start with a new bar set and maybe a brake set that has an adjustable length on the lever.
08-12-18, 07:41 PM
#6
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,050
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 820 Post(s)
Liked 185 Times
in
87 Posts
Seems to me that the first thing to do would be to try to find an adjustable lever for drop bars. I am not aware that any exist, although I have not looked. All the adjustable-reach levers that I have seen are for flat bars.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Last edited by Aubergine; 08-12-18 at 08:02 PM.
08-12-18, 08:46 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
You're right! I've been digging and haven't been finding anything. I did find a set of Soma levers that are designed with small hands in mind, so I think I'll give those a try.
Thank you for your help!
Thank you for your help!
08-12-18, 10:22 PM
#8
Old Rider
Adding cross-top levers has worked well for me.
Tektro RL720 CX brake levers are available in polished silver and the correct bar diameter.
In my opinion they don't look out of place on a vintage bike.
I run one bike with a single lever for the rear brake for added comfort.
You'll need to remove the bar tape and reposition the existing levers if you rotate the bars upwards.
Tektro RL720 CX brake levers are available in polished silver and the correct bar diameter.
In my opinion they don't look out of place on a vintage bike.
I run one bike with a single lever for the rear brake for added comfort.
You'll need to remove the bar tape and reposition the existing levers if you rotate the bars upwards.
08-12-18, 10:23 PM
#9
Old Rider
oops,,,, photo stolen from this thread
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ke-levers.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ke-levers.html
08-13-18, 08:00 AM
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 207 Post(s)
Liked 108 Times
in
58 Posts
It is just me, or do those brakes seem too far back? If you did even up the top, they would end up pointing way up. I know you have already stated you did not like the bars leveled on top, but that is the way almost everyone else has them - the position in the drops being an afterthought...
Oh, I think your seatpost needs to come down.
Oh, I think your seatpost needs to come down.
08-13-18, 10:31 AM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
It is just me, or do those brakes seem too far back? If you did even up the top, they would end up pointing way up. I know you have already stated you did not like the bars leveled on top, but that is the way almost everyone else has them - the position in the drops being an afterthought...
Oh, I think your seatpost needs to come down.
Oh, I think your seatpost needs to come down.
I think it's the geomtery of the bar. It has a slope at the top. Even when bringing it up like suggested, it isn't flat. I've bought a Soma Highway 1 set of bars. I'll update everyone once I have the new bar.
08-13-18, 11:22 AM
#12
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,050
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 820 Post(s)
Liked 185 Times
in
87 Posts
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
08-13-18, 11:42 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18354 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
I like some of the newer brake levers.
TRP RRL, Origin8 Classique, or various Tektro models. But they are for a little larger hands. Perhaps you can find some levers on a bike to look at and try out.
08-13-18, 12:53 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 720
Bikes: Road, mountain and track bikes and tandems.
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 282 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
15 Posts
Brake levers aside. Your seat is way, way too high I mean I could not even guess how much. You are barely reaching the pedals with the balls of your feet. You need to have the ability to drop your heels while pedaling at low cadence.
08-13-18, 12:58 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 720
Bikes: Road, mountain and track bikes and tandems.
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 282 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
15 Posts
Actually, I am wrong, looking at the photo again, the ball of your foot does not even make it to the pedal center. You may have to practically put the seat on the top tube. In other words, the bike may simpily be too big (my opinion). Others are free to disagree.
08-13-18, 01:26 PM
#16
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times
in
1,577 Posts
I agree that the saddle could come down a little, but I also see some knee bend in both pics, and the saddle has plenty of room to come down, so the situation is not that dire.
08-13-18, 02:51 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18354 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
The frame appears to be a small size, and seat looks high.
Hanna, how tall are you?
I usually do the heel on the pedal, straight leg at about 5:00 to judge saddle position, then adjust to where it is comfortable.
Hanna, how tall are you?
I usually do the heel on the pedal, straight leg at about 5:00 to judge saddle position, then adjust to where it is comfortable.
08-13-18, 07:30 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The frame is 50cm, and I'm 5'1ish. The saddle is definitely high. Probably the symptom of riding on my brother's bikes. Even on my Trek, I have the saddle pretty high up.
Photos below of when I brought it home (before lowering the saddle a few inches) and it next yo my Trek.
I do see what you're all saying - it can certainly come down an inch or so more. Will this help with the fit in the bars? I feel pretty comfortable in my legs, but I could be making me sit too high on the bars?
Photos below of when I brought it home (before lowering the saddle a few inches) and it next yo my Trek.
I do see what you're all saying - it can certainly come down an inch or so more. Will this help with the fit in the bars? I feel pretty comfortable in my legs, but I could be making me sit too high on the bars?
08-13-18, 07:56 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18354 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
I think the Soma hwy 1 bars will in effect raise the bars by 1 or 2 inches, and are a good start.
Did you measure your current bars near the stem? 26.0 mm?
Did you measure your current bars near the stem? 26.0 mm?
08-13-18, 09:37 PM
#20
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,050
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 820 Post(s)
Liked 185 Times
in
87 Posts
If you lower the saddle, yes, it may help your fit with the bars. However!! Lower the saddle ONLY to the point that the distance between pedal and saddle is right for you. You don’t want to screw up your overall fit just because the bars are too low. Get the right height, and then decide what you need to do to get the bars to fit.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
08-13-18, 10:51 PM
#21
Senior Member
If it helps, I've recently changed how I think about my saddle height. And it seems to work well for me.
Start with measuring your inseam. Make sure you do it with your cycle shoes on. Google if you don't know how to do that, it's easy. Then, divide that measurement by 88%. This should be your saddle height from the middle of your BB to the top of your seat. I read this was how Greg Lemond's fit worked, I had my seat maybe 2 or 3cm too high, and I now feel much more comfortable. And I think that you need to get your seat right before your get your handlebars done. And that's what I'm working on myself as well.
Start with measuring your inseam. Make sure you do it with your cycle shoes on. Google if you don't know how to do that, it's easy. Then, divide that measurement by 88%. This should be your saddle height from the middle of your BB to the top of your seat. I read this was how Greg Lemond's fit worked, I had my seat maybe 2 or 3cm too high, and I now feel much more comfortable. And I think that you need to get your seat right before your get your handlebars done. And that's what I'm working on myself as well.
08-14-18, 08:00 AM
#23
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 207 Post(s)
Liked 108 Times
in
58 Posts
The frame is 50cm, and I'm 5'1ish. The saddle is definitely high. Probably the symptom of riding on my brother's bikes. Even on my Trek, I have the saddle pretty high up.
Photos below of when I brought it home (before lowering the saddle a few inches) and it next yo my Trek.
I do see what you're all saying - it can certainly come down an inch or so more. Will this help with the fit in the bars? I feel pretty comfortable in my legs, but I could be making me sit too high on the bars?
Photos below of when I brought it home (before lowering the saddle a few inches) and it next yo my Trek.
I do see what you're all saying - it can certainly come down an inch or so more. Will this help with the fit in the bars? I feel pretty comfortable in my legs, but I could be making me sit too high on the bars?
But, we have all been ignoring the gorilla in the room - the dork disk is still in place.
08-14-18, 10:04 AM
#24
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,528
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3885 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
The bars are uncomfortable because that's the way our cycling heroes of the 50s set them up. These days, bars and brakes look about like this:
https://www.bikeforums.net/19145009-post3.html
Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
https://ridefar.info/rider/comfort/h...rop_Handlebars
https://www.bikeforums.net/19145009-post3.html
Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction
https://ridefar.info/rider/comfort/h...rop_Handlebars
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
08-14-18, 05:14 PM
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
With the saddle a bit down and with the new bars bringing your hands up, you will probably be just about there, frame size looks good to me. Oh, nice find by the way great looking ride!
But, we have all been ignoring the gorilla in the room - the dork disk is still in place.
But, we have all been ignoring the gorilla in the room - the dork disk is still in place.
Thank you for all the help!
Last edited by bfuser284953024; 08-14-18 at 05:20 PM.