Is this wheelset a good deal?
#1
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Is this wheelset a good deal?
I am a noob when it comes to bike equipment, so I thought I would ask about this wheelset that is for sale on Craigslist. I have a 1979 Centurian Omega that I am riding, and I am slowly restoring. I bought it new, and it has a 27-inch wheelset that came with the bike. Many of the spokes are rusted inside the rim, and there were some dents in them that I smoothed up today. Both rims are reasonably true, not perfect, but close, but they are both a little out of round. I was checking out Craigslist and found this wheelset, Mavic Rims, and Suzue sealed cartridge bearing hubs (?). I just went out and measured my rear hub spacing, and it is 126mm (even though I have five gears), and the freewheel is a SunTour with two notches. One other question I have is, would the freewheel I have fit this (is there a thread standard)? Could I use a 6 or 7 gear freewheel with this? Or would I need a new derailer? In the close-up photo, am I looking at some rust where the spokes enter the rim? Would I be saving weight? Oh yes, and is the earth flat? (sorry, with all the questions, I couldn't resist seeing if there is a flat either in the group) I would be gaining quick-release wheels, which my bike doesn't have now, and that would be a plus. I have attached a few photos and a link to the add. I really appreciate any help you can provide. https://fresno.craigslist.org/bop/d/...193780043.html
Last edited by royphotog; 09-13-20 at 09:40 AM.
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Which model Centurion do you have? The sellers wheels are 27”, are the wheels you’re replacing 27” or 700c? This will matter when it comes to brake reach. It sounds like the spacing is correct and you should be able to fit a 6 speed freewheel in 126 spacing. If you’re looking for 27 inch wheels and not 700c than I really like this wheel set at $70 if they’re not too worn and there are no hops in the rims. I’d bring that measuring device along and make sure that the rear wheel really is 126mm and matches your spacing.
Last edited by Pcampeau; 09-13-20 at 12:46 AM.
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#3
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Which model Centurion do you have? The sellers wheels are 27”, are the wheels you’re replacing 27” or 700c? This will matter when it comes to brake reach. It sounds like the spacing is correct and you should be able to fit a 6 speed freewheel in 126 spacing. If you’re looking for 27 inch wheels and not 700c than I really like this wheel set at $70 if they’re not too worn and there are no hops in the rims. I’d bring that measuring device along and make sure that the rear really is 126mm spacing.
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Knowing what Centurion you have would help. Are your wheels now 27 or 700c?
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Pretty cool upgrade. My 84 Centurion Turbo has Suzue sealed hubs and they spin smoothly. Eyeball the trueness and roundness feel the bearings spin like new. Many old Mavics will have rusty eyelets like that. If that bugs you keep looking.
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So both your frame and these wheels are 27” and 126mm. Should work fine together and accept 5,6,7 speed freewheels. There are different thread standards. Typically English, Italian or French. Suzue hubs likely English.
I think the price is good.
I think the price is good.
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Concur with the others; these are good wheels at a good price and should work well with your bike. Make sure the wheels are reasonably true and that the hubs turn freely. The seller says the wheels are true and that the hubs turn freely which is a good sign since the seller actually knows something about what he or she is selling. The mavic rims are excellent and the wheels are built with quality spokes. Heck I'd be OK paying $70 for these wheels and I've got too many wheels.
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...I don't know what our bicycle looks like, or what kind of fork ends and dropouts the frame was built with.
But sometimes a bicycle that originally came equipped with bolt on wheels will not accept the quick release version because the fork ends/ dropouts are too thin.
YOu can usually work around this (if it is an issue) using washers. Again, I have no idea with regard to your bicycle.
...I don't know what our bicycle looks like, or what kind of fork ends and dropouts the frame was built with.
But sometimes a bicycle that originally came equipped with bolt on wheels will not accept the quick release version because the fork ends/ dropouts are too thin.
YOu can usually work around this (if it is an issue) using washers. Again, I have no idea with regard to your bicycle.
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Wow, with tires and all? Excellent deal. I think this would be a nice upgrade to your bike . As far as changing a tube or repairing a flat while you are out , it is worth it. It’s just good to check the trueness to be sure when you go to look at them. Also what 3alarmer says has merit. If you have stamped dropouts there may be a problem getting them to cinch up. This is rare as I have a couple of old bikes with stamped drop outs and quick release cinch up no problem.
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$70 seems good, especially with tires & tubes.. You could use a 6 speed freewheel. If you can find a Suntour Ultra-7 freewheel, it will probably work, but you will need a thinner chain.
99% of freewheels and hubs are "English" thread.
Your rear deraileur is fine. Just a minor adjustment to set the Low and High limit screws.
99% of freewheels and hubs are "English" thread.
Your rear deraileur is fine. Just a minor adjustment to set the Low and High limit screws.
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#12
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Fully built with with tire OK tires ready role fully trued to tires very good deal. If they don't spin true and smooth free hand just OK deal. Easy to check pretty easy to see spin the wheel if it;s correct true you will see zero to no wobble.
#13
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$70 seems good, especially with tires & tubes.. You could use a 6 speed freewheel. If you can find a Suntour Ultra-7 freewheel, it will probably work, but you will need a thinner chain.
99% of freewheels and hubs are "English" thread.
Your rear derailleur is fine. Just a minor adjustment to set the Low and High limit screws.
99% of freewheels and hubs are "English" thread.
Your rear derailleur is fine. Just a minor adjustment to set the Low and High limit screws.
#14
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Why bother with an old Suntour 7 speed freewheel. You can get a brand new Sunrace, Sram or, Shimano 7 speed HG freewheel that will work much better for as little as $20.
#15
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#16
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Photos of my dropouts, I thought I had posted yesterday but apparently not. It appears from what I have seen that I have what is called stamped dropouts.
#17
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[QUOTE=royphotog;21694672]Photos of my dropouts, I thought I had posted yesterday but apparently not. It appears from what I have seen that I have what is called stamped dropouts.
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
Last edited by ramzilla; 09-17-20 at 07:25 PM.
#18
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[QUOTE=ramzilla;21699820]
Cool, I was judging them from photos on Sheldon Browns page on dropouts, but they have supported my wheels for all these years and seem to work just fine. Thanks for the follow up.
Photos of my dropouts, I thought I had posted yesterday but apparently not. It appears from what I have seen that I have what is called stamped dropouts.
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
#19
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[QUOTE=ramzilla;21699820]
If those are not 'Stamped Dropouts' what are they?
I thought there were only two types of dropouts, stamped and forged, and those aren't forged.
There are vertical and horizontal types in both.
Stamped dropouts aren't the big issue, its how they're attached to the frame. Some super cheaply built bikes only used a simply crimp and electro-weld process to secure the tubing to the dropouts, those are the one's to avoid.
I'd venture to guess that more bikes have stamped dropouts than those with forged dropouts. In the 70's, only the upper end bikes had forged dropouts. My '77 Raleigh Super Course has stamped dropouts, so does just about every other bike I've got. Just about every Chicago Schwinn had stamped dropouts as well and those were some of the most durable frames I've ever seen.
Photos of my dropouts, I thought I had posted yesterday but apparently not. It appears from what I have seen that I have what is called stamped dropouts.
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
No worries. Those dropouts are just fine. It's all good. I don't know when the dropout bias began. But, there's a lot of idiots on here that mumble something about "stamped dropouts" that really have no idea what they're talking about. Stamped dropouts are something that are only seen on really super cheap bikes. You can tell a stamped dropout from it's appearance. It's when they simply mash & stamp the dropout onto the frame with a punch press. The same way they press fit cheap ass chain rings onto crank sets. Open your eyes & learn what distinguishes a nice bike from a piece of crap. Be good. Have fun.
Edit: Oh yeah. I forgot. In my humble opinion: Those are not "stamped dropouts".
I thought there were only two types of dropouts, stamped and forged, and those aren't forged.
There are vertical and horizontal types in both.
Stamped dropouts aren't the big issue, its how they're attached to the frame. Some super cheaply built bikes only used a simply crimp and electro-weld process to secure the tubing to the dropouts, those are the one's to avoid.
I'd venture to guess that more bikes have stamped dropouts than those with forged dropouts. In the 70's, only the upper end bikes had forged dropouts. My '77 Raleigh Super Course has stamped dropouts, so does just about every other bike I've got. Just about every Chicago Schwinn had stamped dropouts as well and those were some of the most durable frames I've ever seen.
#20
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Thread Starter
Thanks again for all the help and replies. I got the wheels and they went on my frame, a little tight on the front wheel but still worked. Nice to have quick releases, the old ones were just bolt-on. They look good, spin smoothly, and are true. They ride well. I do have another question. I note that the tires that are on the new wheels are 27x1-1/4 just like my old ones, but they are noticeably thinner, why is that?
#21
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This is pretty common tires speced the same often time vary 20% or so when inflated and mounted if there and ride nice no issues.
#22
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I measured them both with my micromotor last night, lo and behold, they are the same width. It's is an illusion. The new to me Strada's sure look thinner, but the micrometer doesn't lie. Oh, and I had to tell my wife "your right dear" she said "maybe it's the gumballs that make them look fatter"
#23
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Old school gummies are a bit wider at the center buldge but the tread width is the same.