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Old 08-12-03, 08:52 PM
  #26  
SamDaBikinMan
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Good call Gordon. I stand corrected

Of course firing that cannon from a bike could get interesting. I have been contemplating buying one. It would be nice if someone would come out with a lever action western style rifle for the same cartridge so you could get a matching long gun/ revolver set.
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Old 08-12-03, 09:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by Gordon P
SamDaBikinMan, I thought for sure you would recommend a 50 Calibre Smith and Wesson handgun.
I would have opted for a Magnum Research Mark XIX over the S&W but both are quite big pieces of ordinance to be carrying while riding.
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Old 08-12-03, 09:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by SamDaBikinMan
Good call Gordon. I stand corrected

Of course firing that cannon from a bike could get interesting. I have been contemplating buying one. It would be nice if someone would come out with a lever action western style rifle for the same cartridge so you could get a matching long gun/ revolver set.
Wouldn't you get some pretty horrible ballistics out of firing that particular round through a longer barrel?
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Old 08-12-03, 09:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by khuon
Wouldn't you get some pretty horrible ballistics out of firing that particular round through a longer barrel?
There would need to be some controlled testing done of course to see what affect the longer rifle barrel would have. If it is similar to the .44 then it would be an extension of its effective range which is an improvement. But it is perhaps possible the increased velocity exiting the muzzle may have an adverse affect on the bullet. I personally doubt it though. If anything there is room for a bit more heat behind that round than is being loaded at the factory. I've loaded some pretty hot .41's and .44's that did not affect accuracy.

Of course even fired from a rifle it will be a close range cartidge. 100-150 yards max IMO for an average shooter. But oh what a brush buster. Don't have to worry about that round being deflected by a twig.
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Old 08-12-03, 10:15 PM
  #30  
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A few of mine:

If you ride an MTB, get slicks if you ride strictly on the road, such as during the commute hour. You'd be surprised as to how much faster and easier you ride.

Use a credit card or a business card to help you set the toe-in for your brake pads. Please the card on the rear 1/3 of the pad and tighten it. This will toe the pad in approximately 1 degree, helping you get rid of your squeaky brakes.

Oil your clipless pedals every time you oil your chain to help your shoes to easily click in and prevent squeaking. A teflon-based lubricant is good for me.

If your water supply is low on a long, hot ride, breathe through your nose and not through your mouth. This will help you maintain your body moisture and save you from having to drink all the time.
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Old 08-12-03, 10:23 PM
  #31  
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Never get involved in a land war in Asia.
Seriously though... there seems to be quite a few of these "helpful hints" threads along with people requesting help on various recurring topics. Perhaps it's time for a FAQ? Maybe even a special forum that just includes FAQs, tips and suggestions... one with living posts each devoted to a particular topic such as "How to buy a bike", "Bike fitting", "Best Common Practices for Riding Teeters", etc... People with enough freetime could volunteer as editors who would collect/compile and then submit final drafts to be placed in that section.

Ack!!! This is starting to sound like IETF. Sorry...
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Old 08-12-03, 10:23 PM
  #32  
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Remember to do an all around check of the bike before you go for a ride, you would be suprised as to what you haven't noticed before.
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Old 08-12-03, 10:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by danka24
Remember to do an all around check of the bike before you go for a ride, you would be suprised as to what you haven't noticed before.
Like a chain link that's halfway out of its rivet slot?
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Old 08-13-03, 05:06 AM
  #34  
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My Tip: To easily center your wheel when putting it back on the bike squeeze the appropriate brake lever and then tighten the skewer. This works for the front and rear wheel.

Zack
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Old 08-13-03, 07:01 AM
  #35  
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Zack. That's too easy. Why didn't I think of that? Especially yesterday as I was fighting my rear wheel?
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Old 08-13-03, 07:14 AM
  #36  
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A Tip?....20% unless the service is bad.

Sock It to Your Water Bottle

Place your water bottle with a cool drink inside in a white cotton sock. This serves as a great insulator, and absorbs the sweating on the outside.
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Old 08-13-03, 07:20 AM
  #37  
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have a good time! When riding ceases to be fun, then the thril is gone and its only work.. and we work enough as it is
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Old 08-13-03, 07:38 AM
  #38  
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Drink before you are thirsty.

Go easy on the junk food.

Get lots of sleep.

Good habits serve you. Spend the time required to cultivate a few.

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Old 08-13-03, 08:12 AM
  #39  
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Khuon,

I love that movie. one of the all time favourites in my
household.

One cannot catch uncle gravity sleeping and walk
up walls - the Cozmik Kid ca. 1971
seriously, I can't think of any that haven't been said
but maybe "be safe out there"

Marty
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Old 08-13-03, 10:02 AM
  #40  
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Another tip from experience:

Check the pivot screw of your front derailleur and make sure it is tight.

I just happened to do a walk around check of my bike before a ride a while back and noticed the fr. der. pivot screw sticking about 1/4 of an inch out. I tightened it and since have had to tighten it again.

A few weeks later on an organized ride a friends fr. der. quit working. At the next rest stop I checked all the normal stuff, cable, shifter, etc. The shifter wouldn't move the tension on the cable was so tight. I looked at the der. and noticed it looked funny. A closer inspection revealed that the pivot screw had fallen out. Three bike shops supported the ride, but it was still hard to find a replacement.
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Old 08-13-03, 10:51 AM
  #41  
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To cure annoying seat post/tube creaking, spray WD-40 down the seat tube.
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Old 08-13-03, 10:52 AM
  #42  
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On the first half of your ride if you are feeling particularly strong and setting personal speed records, remember you'll be riding into a strong head wind on the way home.
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Old 08-13-03, 10:54 AM
  #43  
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Originally posted by ZackJones
My Tip: To easily center your wheel when putting it back on the bike squeeze the appropriate brake lever and then tighten the skewer. This works for the front and rear wheel.

Zack
This tip rocks!
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Old 08-13-03, 01:20 PM
  #44  
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Check your wheel magnet screws. I had one back out slightly and it ripped the computer sensor off the bracket!
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Old 08-13-03, 02:46 PM
  #45  
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Maintenance Tips:

Grease your seatpost!

Learn how to use a torque wrench and do so on a regular basis.

When cutting a steerer tube, Measure twice, cut once!

Support your LBS's as much as possible. Spend your money locally, or the small shops will dissappear!

Tip your mechanic at the shop with Pizza and/or Micro Brews. They'll always remember you and you'll always get top notch service!

Riding Tips (Mostly Mtn Biking):

Look 10' in front of your wheel, not 1'. The further ahead you look, the faster you'll go.

Don't ride with a "Death Grip", grip the bars enough to hold on, but don't clinch them.

Stay loose, don't lock out any of your joints, keep your legs and your arms flexed, use your bodies built-in suspension.

Turn like a snow skiier. Outside leg straight out and weight the outside pedal. Inside leg bent.

When learning to bunny-hop, place a cup or a 2x4 on the ground to hop over. Having something to miss will improve your skills.

Take a poop before your ride!

Stay hydrated. It's better to drink what's left all at once, then to try to conserve your water by drinking a little at a time.

Pack it in, Pack it out!

Yield to everyone, and most importantly, be friendly and say, "Hello" and "Thank You" to other trail users. If everyone did this it would change their perspective about us!

That's it for now!

L8R
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Old 08-13-03, 02:54 PM
  #46  
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Originally posted by a2psyklnut
Maintenance Tips:

Grease your seatpost!
Unless its a carbon seatpost.


Originally posted by a2psyklnut
When cutting a steerer tube, Measure twice, cut once!
And don't forget to take into account all associated stack heights (stem, headset, spacers).

Originally posted by a2psyklnut
Take a poop before your ride!
...
Pack it in, Pack it out!
Following the former advice helps in avoiding problems when attempting to follow the latter advice.
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Old 08-13-03, 03:17 PM
  #47  
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So true, so true!

L8R
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Old 08-13-03, 03:22 PM
  #48  
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Originally posted by khuon
Unless its a carbon seatpost.
Is it bad or simply not necessary?
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Old 08-13-03, 04:49 PM
  #49  
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Originally posted by firebolt
Is it bad or simply not necessary?
Both. It's unnecessary since galling won't accur with a carbon post and applying grease to a carbon post will often result in it slipping.
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Old 08-13-03, 10:40 PM
  #50  
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This is one of the best threads I've ever seen.
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