Where would my bike stand..
#1
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Where would my bike stand..
Against others in a race at the novice-intermediate level? It's a GT ZR 4.0 And before I get to the specs... I'm wondering if I should upgrade to a better bike? or if this one is appropriate for my level? I guess I just wanna know if I should stick with it. I bought it in 2001 and it's been my only bike. I've only recently started using it regularly. I don' tknow if a pic helps... but I'll include it...
Bicycle Type Road race & triathlon
Sugg Retail $969.99
Weight Unspecified
Sizes 48cm, 50cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm
Colors Metallic Blue
Frame & Fork
Frame Construction TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material 7000 aluminum
Fork Brand & Model Kinesis
Fork Material Aluminum, unicrown crown
Rear Shock Not applicable
Components
Component Group Road Mix
Brakeset Tektro dual pivot brakes, Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Control levers
Shift Levers Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Control
Front Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur Shimano 105 GS
Crankset Gt forged aluminum, 30/42/52 teeth
Pedals Ritchey Logic Comp
Bottom Bracket Tange Seiki
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 8-speed, 12 - 25 teeth
Chain KMC HG-72, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Aluminum
Saddle Selle Italia SPX
Handlebar Modolo aluminum
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Aluminum
Headset 1" Tange-Seiki Passage
Wheels
Hubs Aluminum
Rims Mavic CXP 11
Tires Panaracer GT
Spoke Brand Stainless steel, 14g
Spoke Nipples Unspecified
Bicycle Type Road race & triathlon
Sugg Retail $969.99
Weight Unspecified
Sizes 48cm, 50cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm
Colors Metallic Blue
Frame & Fork
Frame Construction TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material 7000 aluminum
Fork Brand & Model Kinesis
Fork Material Aluminum, unicrown crown
Rear Shock Not applicable
Components
Component Group Road Mix
Brakeset Tektro dual pivot brakes, Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Control levers
Shift Levers Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Control
Front Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur Shimano 105 GS
Crankset Gt forged aluminum, 30/42/52 teeth
Pedals Ritchey Logic Comp
Bottom Bracket Tange Seiki
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 8-speed, 12 - 25 teeth
Chain KMC HG-72, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Aluminum
Saddle Selle Italia SPX
Handlebar Modolo aluminum
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Aluminum
Headset 1" Tange-Seiki Passage
Wheels
Hubs Aluminum
Rims Mavic CXP 11
Tires Panaracer GT
Spoke Brand Stainless steel, 14g
Spoke Nipples Unspecified
#3
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First don't worry about it
second, there is a racing forum, look up at the top of the page
third, did I mention don't worry about it?
second, there is a racing forum, look up at the top of the page
third, did I mention don't worry about it?
#5
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You can upgrade to a $5000 bike and it will not make a noticable difference. The engine is the factor.
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#6
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It's better to go fast on a less expensive bike than to go slow on a very expensive ride. Just race it.
#8
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From the beginning races I've seen, you'd probably in the bottom 5th percentile among the racers - there might be another guy there with a crappier bike than yours, but I wouldn't count on it.
On the other hand, your bike is perfectly appropriate for beginning racing.
On the other hand, your bike is perfectly appropriate for beginning racing.
#9
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Don't worry....just ride/train/race....maybe get some good newer tires is the only other suggestion, like conti gp4000s.
#10
Senior Member
Against others in a race at the novice-intermediate level? It's a GT ZR 4.0 And before I get to the specs... I'm wondering if I should upgrade to a better bike? or if this one is appropriate for my level? I guess I just wanna know if I should stick with it. I bought it in 2001 and it's been my only bike. I've only recently started using it regularly. I don' tknow if a pic helps... but I'll include it...
#12
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I could race my 28 year old homemade 21 lb steel bike and I'm pretty confident it would not make a difference in my results unless there was a photo finish on a very hilly course. (It rides quite nicely with '09 Centaur on it ! ). I could put my downtube shifters back on and unless there was a critical attack while climbing out of the saddle, it would just be an inconvenience.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 08-06-09 at 08:39 AM.
#13
Senior Member
As a more extreme example, I've been racing my old 21-year old Schwinn in crits for the last month, since my modern bike (Specialized E5) is out of town. The Schwinn has a 6-speed cassette, indexed downtube shifters, Biopace rings and single-pivot brakes. The Specialized has full 2009 Rival, with the integrated controls, dual-pivot brakes, round chainrings and a 10-speed cassette. There is also a significant qualitative difference in the feel of the handling; the E5 is razor-sharp, while the Schwinn feels just a little bit mushier. Would racing the Specialized give me better results? I don't know, but I doubt it. The improvements might be enough to average one placing better over the five races that I used the Schwinn. That seems reasonable, because my E5 is definitely a better bike for racing, but the most important factor in any race are your legs.
Obviously, 20 years will mean a much greater accumulation of differences than 10 years. That GT has integrated shifters, either an 8 or 9-speed cassette and dual-pivot brakes. But it's definitely not a modern bike, and it will feel a little bit different from a modern high-end race bike. That's not a problem, but it's not correct to say that it's no different from or just as good as a new, higher-end (or even equivalent entry-level) bicycle.
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Obviously, 20 years will mean a much greater accumulation of differences than 10 years. That GT has integrated shifters, either an 8 or 9-speed cassette and dual-pivot brakes. But it's definitely not a modern bike, and it will feel a little bit different from a modern high-end race bike. That's not a problem, but it's not correct to say that it's no different from or just as good as a new, higher-end (or even equivalent entry-level) bicycle.
#16
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#17
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Sure it will make a difference. I don't mean that it will necessarily make a difference in speed or race results (though there are circumstances under which it could), but a new $5k bike will certainly work, handle and ride noticeably different from that old entry-level GT.
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#18
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That bike is definately not going to hold you back. Now if you were riding a 30+ pound hybrid or mountain bike, it would be a different story. You could buy a more expensive and lighter bike and possibly save a few seconds per mile.
#19
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The other posts are correct, the bike's the least of your worries. However, make sure its in good working order, not skipping shifts, brakes adjusted correctly, wheels true, etc.
It is frustrating trying to hang on to the pack when (for example) your FD is dropping your chain to the outside or inside on every shift. Not that I know that from experience or anything.
It is frustrating trying to hang on to the pack when (for example) your FD is dropping your chain to the outside or inside on every shift. Not that I know that from experience or anything.
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I think everyone here is forgetting to take into account the biggest difference of all: the placebo factor.
#23
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#24
stole your bike
That bike will be more than adequate for you so don't worry about it, you'll find that in cycling it's the rider that makes the most difference.
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#25
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I've seen all kinds of bikes leaning against the stage while the podium ceremony is going on.