jerbee

I picked up this Peugeot at a garage sale earlier this week and just finished going over it with a toothbrush. I'm interested in restoring it and using it on the roads here in Louisiana, but can't figure out what model it is, or what year it was made - despite exhaustive searching via google. Also, and not that I'm planning on selling it, but would anyone happen to know the approximate value of the bike? I feel very confident that it was 30 bucks well-spent, but would like to brag about WHAT a value it was.

The shifter is on the down tube rather than the stem. It has an 'Atax' stem. 'Simplex' rear derailleur. 'Shimano' front derailleur. Rigida 'Chrolux' rims. Tire size is Serial number is 244693.27x1.25 (to fit k-2 frame).

Any experts around here who could lend me a much-needed and much-appreciated hand? I've attached photos below:

CO_Hoya 

I see "Aztec" lugs, half-chrome fork, steel rims, Peugeot tubing.

To my eye, it appears to be a early-mid 70's UO-8:

Aubergine 

It’s a roughly 1975-1977 U-08. Replace the wheels with nice aluminum rims and it will be a very nice bike to ride.

jj1091

That one's a 1973 UO-8 model. You can verify the year of manufacture by the date code shown on the Rigida rim in the diamond <73>. Everything appears to be original except the saddle and the front derailleur. The front derailleur would have been a Simplex Prestige AV-223. The saddle probably would have been an Ideale 39 or BIM 39. In it's current condition probably worth $75-100, completely refurbished maybe $150-$250 depending on your location. Here's a catalog scan for the 1974 model from the BikeboomPeugeot site:

https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broch...20Page%208.jpg

jerbee

Thanks for all of the quick replies - I'm impressed by the enthusiasm on this board!

I was thinking that a new saddle, cork tape, and tires would be the first changes... Aluminum vs steel rims is a mystery for me - I assume it's due to steel not braking well when it's wet? Weight difference wouldn't seem to be much, if that's the reason.

What all would need to be done to restore it? This is my first bike since I was a little kid, so I'm rather excited to take up a new hobby.

markk900

Definitely a UO-8. Nice bike! Be careful - that stem is way too far up I think..... You can eliminate most of the rust etc with elbow grease and some aluminum foil.....And with new pads even the chrome rims will stop OK, as long as its not raining.

Also, I'd bet at some point in its life that serial number was hidden/obscured for some reason! They normally aren't covered by layers of paint at the factory.

markk900

We replied at the same time. FOr a first bike, everything is pretty much there but needs lots of cleaning and regreasing etc. Check out @randyjawa's site https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/ for a host of good advice getting into your new hobby. But from what I can see - cleaning and riding are going to be your main chores.

jj1091

If you're wanting to restore it as a nice OEM-vintage bike, I wouldn't replace the bartape, since what's on there seems to be the OEM tape and looks to be in good condition. Looking at the photos of the tires, they don't show any evidence of problems or wear, like dry-rotting or cracking, so the sidewalls may clean up nicely with some soapy water and a scrub-brush. For the chrome on the rims, the hubs, and any shiny metal, I like to use 0000-grade steel wool with a small amount of WD-40 sprayed on it. You'd be surprised how well the chrome and alloy metal will clean up. Finish up with a good polish like Meguiar's Cleaner wax for the frame.

As for the Rigida steel rims, the weight difference would probably be 3 lbs less with alloy rims and new spokes, but you'd easily spend more than the bike is worth to do so, and not gain much. The braking on those particular rims is not bad when they're dry, since the waffle pattern adds a bit of grab to them, but when they're wet, the waffle pattern holds the water on the rim, instead of allowing it to squee-gee off the rim as on smooth rims, making the braking worse.

Unless you plan on a significant investment, I'd leave the bike as it is, clean it up well, lube the places that need lubing, then ride it for a while. If you're in love with it after a few hundred miles, then maybe go for the full restoration. I love the old Peugeots, have 2 of them now.

Peugeotlover

Adjust the saddle so that when a pedal is down, and you are balanced in the saddle, your leg should be (almost) fully extended.
Lower the stem an inch or two.
Front tire, try 60 psi; rear 65 psi, see how that feels.
Buy some chain lube and lube the chain.

It's a good bike, should last a lifetime if kept indoors.
If the derailleurs need adjustment, maybe let a bike shop pro adjust them. Check the wheels for true-ness at the shop.
You got it cheap enough you could have a shop do an initial tune-up.

Later, you can adjust the hub cones, repack with fresh grease, same with bottom-bracket.

jerbee

The tires weren't holding air, so I picked up new tubes and they seem to be doing just fine... I dropped the stem a bit, and while cleaning it realized that the rear pulleys were missing teeth, so I got some Suntour ones on eBay for $7 a pop that should fit, since they're also 6mm like the Simplex ones. The 0000-grade steel wool is working miracles on the chrome, and I'm using a degreaser on the frame, then putting on a color restoring (MacGuire's color compound) wax after the frame is cleaned up. After that I'll be cleaning the cassette and chain then lubing everything up for the test ride.

I did notice that two of the brake pads seem to be touching the rim even when the cables are relaxed (one in the front, one in the back) - adjusting them didn't seem to fix anything. I assume over a few rides that the pads will wear down on their own --- is this correct, or should I just get new pads?

CO_Hoya 

Brakes are the most important safety feature of a bike, so should be set up correctly.

Sheldon Brown has a number of articles about brakes (link); the most relevant for you are probably these (link, link). Since you have MAFAC Racers, I'd suggest replacing the pads in the existing shoes. The Koolstop salmon-colored pads are considered the best and they offer a perfect match (link).

Please post pictures of your progress - we love that around here.

Peugeotlover

Here is a photo of my front brake, you can see how the pads are set.
The pads should not touch the rim until the brake lever is squeezed.

jj1091

That's an easy fix. The caliper arms are probably not centered, and it doesn't have anything to do with the pads, whether they're worn, or not. With the tires mounted, move the caliper left or right, by hand, until you have space on both sides of the rim, then tighten the mounting bolt that goes through the frame. Once the bolt is tight enough, the caliper won't shift left or right allowing the pad to rub on the rim when the brake lever isn't squeezed. Getting new pads won't correct this.

jimmuller 

You should probably replace the tires too if they show any sign of dry rot. The tires, not the tubes, hold the pressure. The tubes just keep it inside the tires. The last thing you want is a blowout on the road.

If you want to upgrade it, aluminum wheels will be a good start.