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1975 Schwinn Paramount Build - Comments/ Advice WELCOME!

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1975 Schwinn Paramount Build - Comments/ Advice WELCOME!

Old 09-20-19, 05:55 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Updated pics:

Shifters with stops (which, now that I look at pic, I think I have on the wrong side):

Rear wheel build with the 8-8-8 Maeda Perfect freewheel:

Grand Sport pedals and record FD:
That is looking fantastic. Glad to see those stops working out well too. (And yes, if you flip the cables, the shifters will be oriented correctly for their cables).

-Kurt
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Old 09-20-19, 10:20 PM
  #27  
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^^^I like the direction this is taking very much!
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Old 09-21-19, 04:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Cost and problem update:

Caught somewhat of a break when Amazon seller didn't include nipples as described in the listing. Amazon customer service, which I've had good success with, told me to keep the spokes and sent me a refund. Problem was, even though I used the aforementioned spoke calculator, they were too long. I had to grind a bit off the threaded end. Wheel trued fine.

Sub-total: $518

Part additions:
New nipples (box of 100 with two-day delivery): $15
Weinmann 219 alloy rims: $42.00. I went with these primarily because of the frosted silver finish which complemented the crankset nicely. I'll see how they ride before I decide if I need an upgrade.
Kenda K35 tires, tubes and rim strips: $20. While I'm OK with the K35s (I've ran them before), I'm swapping them out with a new set of Pasela Panaracers I've have on another bike.

Sub-total: $595.00

As noted in a few entries above, I traded the Campy shifter bracket with Kurt for the stops needed to secure the shifters purchased from another member here. I needed to do a small bit of grinding on one of the stops to fit the CyclArt posts and everything went together as expected.

I'll post updated pics later today or tomorrow.

Still looking for a Campy seatpost and (preferrably) period correct Cinelli bars and stem, along with brake levers. I'll likely use the Shimano brakes for now until I can find affordable Mafac cantilevers.
I think the Pasella's are a better choice . I changed a couple of my bikes over to the Panaracer tires after running the Kenda's for a couple of years. The Kenda's are OK , but the ride quality is noticeably better with the Panaracers. IMHO Joe joesvintageroadbikes.wordprress
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Old 09-21-19, 06:16 AM
  #29  
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Parts and price update:

Campy 27.2 Record seatpost in really nice shape: $38.00 shipped
Cinelli 64-40 Giro D'Italia bars (pending) $30.00 shipped

Sub-total: $663.00

Pic update:

Front wheel build:




Record FD and Reynolds decal (not exactly correct) $6.50 from eBay seller "bicals." The $6.50 set included the 531 fork decals which I'm not using. Good quality, thick decal. Not a waterslide. I used soapy water on the frame before placing the decal. This helps if you need to move the decal around a bit to get good positioning:



The "Headless Horseman"

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Old 09-21-19, 06:41 AM
  #30  
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Very Nice!! A plus: Red is Fastest!
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Old 09-22-19, 10:14 AM
  #31  
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So.....one definite way to blow budget is to attend a local bike show/ swap meet. Found these packed with Phil grease for $95 and after a long period of thought (5- min.) whether I disassemble a perfectly nice and true wheelset to use these instead of the small flange hubs, I paid $75 and will begin the clean up process.I

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Old 09-22-19, 10:16 AM
  #32  
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Now at $738 for those counting
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Old 09-26-19, 06:00 PM
  #33  
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Nearing end of parts hunt...

Need a bit of advice regarding Cinelli stems.

I know I need a 26.4 clamp. As I recall, I measured 22mm fork tube opening. I want an 80-100mm reach so I can ride a bit more upright.

What's the difference between some of the Cinelli stems? I.E. 1A, XA, 1R.
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Old 09-26-19, 06:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Nearing end of parts hunt...

Need a bit of advice regarding Cinelli stems.

I know I need a 26.4 clamp. As I recall, I measured 22mm fork tube opening. I want an 80-100mm reach so I can ride a bit more upright.

What's the difference between some of the Cinelli stems? I.E. 1A, XA, 1R.
1A is the traditional one. It's what you want. The 1R is the aero one. They actually have been around longer than you'd think, going back to the 70s, but I think it'd be out of place on that bike. They tend to creak on occasion. The XA is sort of a simplified 1R that was made mostly in the late 80s.
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Old 10-04-19, 08:46 AM
  #35  
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First problem...

Tried to push RD cable end WITH feral on into the housing guide and one side snapped off. Going to have to build the side back up with silver rod and laser welder. If the base isn't steel or aluminum, I'm in additional trouble. Damn!

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Old 10-04-19, 09:00 AM
  #36  
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For those counting...

Brake and derailleur cables and housings: $32.00 shipped
Cinelli 1A 120mm stem shipped: $30
Cinelli 1A 90mm stem shipped: $20

Total: $820.00

Per above, I'm fortunate to have friends owning a large welding facility. Got out of cost trouble with cigars and donuts!

Another lesson learned from this build and my Super Sport build. Cost of finishing items/ parts add up quickly especially if you're trying to establish a period correct look. Be patient when perusing parts. Eventually a Forum member here will help with parts and very reasonable prices.

As mentioned, I wanted a shorter reach stem but was impatient and grabbed the 120mm stem. No complaints but a day or two later, a fellow member had just what I was looking for, hence, two Cinelli stems in my collection.

Similar situation with the Campy seat post. Didn't want to wait and found one in eBay. Dirt covered a large number of scratches on the post. Can't be polished out with tools I have. EBay pictures and item description didn't detail the scratches. Bottom line: Wait for a member to help find good quality parts.
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Old 10-04-19, 10:25 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
For those counting...

Brake and derailleur cables and housings: $32.00 shipped
Cinelli 1A 120mm stem shipped: $30
Cinelli 1A 90mm stem shipped: $20

Total: $820.00

Per above, I'm fortunate to have friends owning a large welding facility. Got out of cost trouble with cigars and donuts!

Another lesson learned from this build and my Super Sport build. Cost of finishing items/ parts add up quickly especially if you're trying to establish a period correct look. Be patient when perusing parts. Eventually a Forum member here will help with parts and very reasonable prices.

As mentioned, I wanted a shorter reach stem but was impatient and grabbed the 120mm stem. No complaints but a day or two later, a fellow member had just what I was looking for, hence, two Cinelli stems in my collection.

Similar situation with the Campy seat post. Didn't want to wait and found one in eBay. Dirt covered a large number of scratches on the post. Can't be polished out with tools I have. EBay pictures and item description didn't detail the scratches. Bottom line: Wait for a member to help find good quality parts.
You could wet sand the seat post to clean it up and avoid removing much material. Lots of threads here about how folks polish their components to a high shine.

It's a mild justification of ebay browsing for cheap parts as a pastime. I've been able to build out a parts bin for "not much money," stuff I sort of expect to use "at a later date." But yes, watching the ticker on your bike gives me a tinge of anxiety because I am sure I'm in the red with all of my bikes. The fun of treasure hunting and tinkering is priceless, though, and there are far worse ways to spend money and time.
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Old 10-12-19, 11:52 AM
  #38  
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Mistake update:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-material.html

After all said and done, I'm not going to weld or repair the RD cable housing graze on. I bought a set of three Campy clamp on versions. Richard Schwinn chimed in and mentioned this type of clamp was used until the early 70s.

$35 for three clamps (lol...let me know if you need one).

$15 for new down tube decal chipped by laser welding table.

$870 so far with brakes, levers and bar tape to go. Not sure if I'm adding fenders and racks for light touring.
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Old 10-14-19, 03:20 PM
  #39  
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Impatience taking its toll.

Again! Bought a nice set of Dia Compe 960s to try to get her on the road before cold weather makes its stand here in Detroit only to be contacted by a member today with a nice set of vintage Mafac cantilevers.

960s: $33
Mafac set: $75
Mafac levers : $35
Neubaum padded cloth tape (they only sell one side): $30

Hopes dashed long ago to keep this under $800. Mistakes, impatience waiting for cheaper parts have now pushed this to $1033.

I'm guessing I can recoup some cost by selling the Campagnolo brake set purchased with the drivetrain and the 960 brake set, along with a few other parts picked up along the way.

One problem I have is when I get to the end of a build I don't like to wait to save $5.00 here or there. That $5-$10 adds up quickly though when you're looking for bits and pieces like chains, brake levers, good tape, decals, etc. As mentioned, I could have saved another $50, along with time/ effort had I not broken the RD cable housing guide. I had a nice Brooks B17 that would have likely added $60-$70 to the tally. Finally, I really didn't need the Campy high-flange hubs. That splurge set me back $ 75 and rebuild time. The Campy small flange wheelset I built looked great. I'm just like the high-flange look.

That said, "Tooooo bad." All parts should be here this weekend. Pics to follow.

Last edited by cqlink; 10-14-19 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 10-22-19, 02:08 PM
  #40  
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Updated pics...

Rebuilt wheel set w/ Campy high flange hubs




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Old 10-22-19, 02:14 PM
  #41  
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Brooks B17 I had on the shelf...


MAFAC cantilevers



I wrapped the bars with no padding. Newbaums black cloth tape. I see a mistake which I'll need to correct...



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Old 10-23-19, 05:19 AM
  #42  
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I spied this thread for the first time this morning while on the train. Beautiful bike! You detailed the build process and your thoughts so well. I am sure many of us here can commiserate with the process. Enjoy the last steps and get it on the road! She is a stunner.
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Old 10-23-19, 08:19 AM
  #43  
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This Paramount is stunning. Beautiful all around. I prefer the older Paramount decals to the original ones. They look much better. Nicely crafted restoration. Velo Art at it's best.
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Old 10-23-19, 08:50 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Updated pics...

Rebuilt wheel set w/ Campy high flange hubs




Looks like you sorted out the cable stop just fine, nice job, details?
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Old 10-23-19, 09:19 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by merziac
Looks like you sorted out the cable stop just fine, nice job, details?
Thanks. As you noted, one of the first errors I made was trying to fit the RD cable housing WITH the ferrule into the the original brazed-on housing guide/ stop. Bad idea. When I "gently" tried to spread the brazed on guide, half of it snapped off.

Here's a link to the thread discussion I had with other members regarding how to fix this:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-material.html

With help, I was able to identify the material Schwinn used (or sourced) for this braze-on. I planned to build up the other side of the cable-housing guide with similar metal or laser weld with silver rod. A buddy is a much better laser welder so I left the bike with him to repair. That was the second mistake. He wasn't careful with clamping the bike in the laser welder stand and nicked paint and hacked up a decal. Fortunately, I was able to rub out the scratches and I touched up one of the nicks with the Testor paint described earlier. As an aside, while I've read many pros and cons about a CycleArt paint job, as the "before" picture suggests, and as I've learned, I'm sure CycleArt not only perfroms due dilligence when primining a bike for paint but I'm sure they sprayed this frame three or four times. I was able to rub out a number of scratches with Meguire's #205 cut and Mothers Carnuba cleaning wax.

Regardless, I ordered another downtube decal and I abandoned welding repair as an option. During that time Richard Schwinn and a few Forum members suggested I look into a clamp on option. From there, I found the Campagnolo clamp on guide you noted in the pics. I used a dremel to carefully grind down the remaining side of the RD housing guide and from there is was a five-minute job clamping on the new guide. Of note is the quick response time from Richard and the Waterford gang. My original email was answered within a few hours and he followed up to see how the repair was going.

Last edited by cqlink; 10-23-19 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 10-23-19, 09:27 AM
  #46  
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I'm still tweaking a few things such as brake cable adjustment, removing small rusty areas, polishing out the scratches on the seat post but I took the bike out on it's "inaugural" ride yesterday. Fortunately everying rolled, shifted and braked very smoothly. Great ride.

While I don't have a triple on the bike, next steps are to find nice, lightweight racks and fenders to keep with the touring mods added by CycleArt for the PO. Please chime in with thoughts and suggestions as this has been a Forum "team" build through just about every step of the process.

In the interim, until I can get her outside again (raining here in Detroit) here are a few more pics:


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Old 10-23-19, 09:28 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Thanks. As you noted, one of the first errors I made was trying to fit the RD cable housing WITH the ferrule into the the original brazed-on housing guide/ stop. Bad idea. When I "gently" tried to spread the brazed on guide, half of it snapped off.

Here's a link to the thread discussion I had with other members regarding how to fix this:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-material.html

With help, I was able to identify the material Schwinn used (or sourced) for this braze-on. I planned to build up the other side of the cable-housing guide with similar metal or laser weld with silver rod. A buddy is a much better laser welder so I left the bike with him to repair. That was the second mistake. He wasn't careful with clamping the bike in the laser welder stand and nicked paint and hacked up a decal. Fortunately, I was able to rub out the scratches and I touched up one of the nicks with the Testor paint described earlier. As an aside, while I've read many pros and cons about a CycleArt paint job, as the "before" picture suggests, and as I've learned, I'm sure CycleArt not only perfroms due dilligence when primining a bike for paint but I'm sure they sprayed this frame three or four times. I was able to rub out a number of scratches with Meguire's #205 cut and Mothers Carnuba cleaning wax.

Regardless, I abandoned welding repair as an option. During that time Richard Schwinn and a few Fourm members suggested I look into a clamp on option. From there, I found the Campagnolo clamp on guide you noted in the pics. I used a dremel to carefully grind down the remaining side of the RD housing guide and from there is was a five-minute job clamping on the new guide. Of note is the quick response time from Richard and the Waterford gang. My original email was answered within a few hours and he followed up to see how the repair was going.
Yep, followed along closely in the other threads. This was really a simple thing that could have spun further out of control had you not kept your wits about you. For me the "hot wrench" would have always been the last resort with the chrome.

Richard is a great guy and resource on anything like this and of course Paramount, Schwinn, etc, etc. He weighed in a couple of times on the 58 while I was sorting it out with info that wasn't coming from anywhere else.

Again, great job, love it.
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Old 10-23-19, 09:30 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by merziac
Yep, followed along closely in the other threads. This was really a simple thing that could have spun further out of control had you not kept your wits about you. For me the "hot wrench" would have always been the last resort with the chrome.

Richard is a great guy and resource on anything like this and of course Paramount, Schwinn, etc, etc. He weighed in a couple of times on the 58 while I was sorting it out with info that wasn't coming from anywhere else.

Again, great job, love it.
Was that the '58 from DC? If so, that was one GREAT bike!
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Old 10-23-19, 09:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Was that the '58 from DC? If so, that was one GREAT bike!
Yessir, can't beleive you passed on it, glad you did.

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Old 10-23-19, 09:37 AM
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merziac
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

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Originally Posted by cqlink
I'm still tweaking a few things such as brake cable adjustment, removing small rusty areas, polishing out the scratches on the seat post but I took the bike out on it's "inaugural" ride yesterday. Fortunately everying rolled, shifted and braked very smoothly. Great ride.

While I don't have a triple on the bike, next steps are to find nice, lightweight racks and fenders to keep with the touring mods added by CycleArt for the PO. Please chime in with thoughts and suggestions as this has been a Forum "team" build through just about every step of the process.

In the interim, until I can get her outside again (raining here in Detroit) here are a few more pics:


Paging @gugie and @TenGrainBread.
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