JacobLee 

I recently set up an 87 Hardrock as a 1x9 for my dad. I cold set the rear and meticulously aligned the dropouts. Hubs are Sachs 8 speed era with good Shimano quick releases. On the first shakedown ride, I did about 800 feet of low gear climbing, but when I reached the ramp up to an observation area, I stood up in a tall gear. The rear wheel popped out of the dropouts, and somehow managed to release the u-brake as it went. I was barely moving, so it was no big deal, but it’s certainly not the sort of thing you want to have happen again, especially to your dad!



I’m pretty sure I had the quick release snug, but who knows. This bike was barely ridden, so there was still a lot of paint on the clamping surfaces. I figured I was safe with the Shimano quick release, but I started comparing the nut to others:



The original knurled washer measures around 22mm, the Atom 21mm, the generic steel 20mm, and the Shimano only 16mm beneath the plastic cap, although the lever side has a 20mm clamp diameter. No good for horizontal dropouts, I guess!



I went with the generic steel (wrong threading on the Atom), and repeated the ride without a problem. I hate to worry about it happening again though. Almost makes me want to install a longer axle and some good ol’ nuts!

Bianchigirll 

Meatloaf is for squares, us vintage hip cats are into Spam N Cheese Ribbon Loaf.

xiaoman1 

We updated to Lo-Sodium...it lets us eat a lot more cheese and it's easier to carve!

Yummy! Corned beef Hash for Christmas!
Best, Ben

Nemosengineer 

After 14 hours of my favorite type of work I now have a bicycle shaped object. Everything went together without drama and my parts stash paid off as I made a few changes on the fly. I must confess my sins as I mixed the Dura-Ace with the Campagnolo, after all who can say no to skeleton brakes.

20201127_230334 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

The inspiration...



: Mike

merziac

^^^^^

Never really a big Formula fan aside from Wide World of Sports, slot cars and models but always recognize this color scheme.

Great call to be sure.

frozenscissor

Learn how to centering my wheel-set for like 5 hour’s

xiaoman1 

I organized my toolboxes, amazing to me how I had a little of this and a little of that in almost every drawer. After organizing things i found I had multiples of a few wrenckes and sockets but actually had more room in the tool chests!...
I had to stop early because I needed to install some new motion sensor lights in the rear near the studio because I had an unwanted friend come through one of my gates last night.
photos later.
Best, Ben

merziac

Lots of unwanted ne're do well's circulating now a days.

I've always had multiples of many things, complete to a degree sets for work, home and in the trailer for the race track.

Also plenty of multiples of some things at work so I could go car to car without having to track down the frequently used ones and plenty different versions for different applications where you need one a little longer, shorter, different angle, etc.

hankamania

Bought an '87 Trek 330 last month. I'd swapped out the 42t ring with a 46T triplizer. Initially, I'd put a 24t granny on it, but the XCD6000 RD just didn't have enough wrap capacity, so I replaced it with a 28T. After that, I replaced the stock Alpha 5000 shifters with SunTour IPC (Superbe/Sprint 9000, with the nice ratchet on the front). Still need to pull one link from the chain, and it should be pretty well dialed in.

con50582

Got this 1986 Gitane Professional built. If it stops raining I will get to riding it.

loudbay

Beaut!

Mr. 66

Very impressive.

Wildwood 

Hey @con50582 - how bout a rear shot to capture that Delta.

Chalk me as a C-Record fan.

con50582

Who don’t like Corsa Record.

noglider 

Yesterday I wrenched on an old wheel by taking it apart for good. I built it (and its mate) in 1982 or 1983. Miche Competition hub, Ukai 27" rim, DT zinc-plated spokes. I built the pair of wheels for a commuter bike. I hit some bumps while riding it with an underinflated tire, so the wheel had a flat spot and a deflection or two to the side. Using spoke tension, I was able to get it almost true. But I don't ride these wheels anymore, and I needed the spokes for a weird job. (I need to remove a freewheel from a wheel-less hub for someone else.) The spokes had held up great except for a couple whose nipples were reluctant to turn, but they did turn eventually. It's really something to see how long these things last when they're built well to begin with. DT stopped offering zinc-plated spokes long ago, I guess because they're ugly, but they were practical and saved a bit of money. The hubs are OK but not great. The shell copies the design of Campagnolo Record from the period with very snug spoke holes, and that's a plus. But the axle broke once, and the bearings were nothing to complain about (better than Normandy Sport) but not amazing.

r0ckh0und 

Bought this Schwinn Impact from a scrapper a few weeks ago and just finished a complete overhaul. A fresh saddle, chain and tires. Straightened the rear axle. I still need to do a little more cleaning. A bit on the hefty side but should make for a nice winter commuter or path bike.

Murray Missile 

This may not count but I'm in the middle of a major shop reorganization. I've purged most of my old car parts and many of my automotive tools except for what I need for my old truck and I'm making bicycles the primary focus of my work area and tools.

BFisher

Excellent priorities!

J.Higgins 

I'm in the middle of a drop-bar conversion on an old Stumpy. I just finished building new wheels, and when I went to install the tires, I discovered that I forgot to order tubes. P-O-O-P!

Mogens

Hi, I'm actually wrenching on two bikes, this 1973 Raleigh Grand Sport is one of them. This is likely a super obvious question... I'm having trouble getting the rear brake cable to move freely between the two circled bits... the braze on and the barrel adjuster on the bridge. Not pictured, the white cable housing that I've been using to go between.

1. should both ends of the cable housing have ferrules? They don't really fit neatly into either the braze on or the barrel adjuster. The ferrules are too large in diameter for either. So they kind of sit outside of the intended diameter and cause the brake cable to be a little off axis, which impedes it from moving freely.
2. Am I even supposed to be using ferrules?
3. Is the barrel adjuster on the cable hanger bridge intact? Is there another piece that should be there that is not?

Thanks!

noglider 

Use a ferrule on the cable stop on the tube tube if it fits. If not, use the bare housing. The housing may not fit into the barrel adjuster so don't use a ferrule. And if it doesn't fit even without a ferrule, strip the plastic coating off so it fits. I just did that on my Raleigh of the same vintage.

BFisher

Cabled up my Miyata 912 build today after finally receiving the last bits in the mail.

Nearly cut a Campy housing too short in the process, but all was good. Definite "Oh &@$#" moment. Triple check those cable runs!

Weather has been a slop fest. Supposed to be dry tomorrow, though. Hopefully I can get some decent pics. Very happy with how it turned out.

Bianchi84

Mogens There are stepped ferrules that might work.

J.Higgins 

You may already know to do this, but take an awl and shove it into the hole on each end of your cable housing. Many times when the housing is cut, it'll deform the coiled sheath and it'll cause the inner cable to drag. I do this to every cable, and file/grind the housing ends flush.

Mr. 66

I found a Diamondback Apex at the local Goodwill. The rear wheel had a cracked rim so I decided to swap rims with scrap from the heap. I also went to the local nonprofit bike shop and picked up an XT Deore headset for the black beauty. Today I will inspect the bb for service or replacement.