Rear wheel to coaster brake?
08-30-17, 09:15 AM
#1
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Rear wheel to coaster brake?
Alt Bikes seems the best place to ask about this.
I've got a Raleigh M60 I picked up (basically for nothing, as it had some grips and pedals I wanted on another bike that were worth more than I paid for it). The last owner "converted" it to single speed by removing the derailleurs. The rear wheel has some cogs and spacers on it, and is missing a spoke (i.e., needs to go away).
The frame is in good shape and I've switched out the fork (star nut stripped out on the stock fork). Front wheel is in good shape.
I'm thinking to turn the bike into a utility bike/hauler/beater with a front basket and rear double basket.
My thought right now is to finish the single-speed conversion by switching the rear wheel out for a coaster brake wheel. I would also remove the rear caliper brake.
Dropouts are slightly diagonal, but I might still have to use a half-link to get the chain length just right.
Any thoughts on this?
I've got a Raleigh M60 I picked up (basically for nothing, as it had some grips and pedals I wanted on another bike that were worth more than I paid for it). The last owner "converted" it to single speed by removing the derailleurs. The rear wheel has some cogs and spacers on it, and is missing a spoke (i.e., needs to go away).
The frame is in good shape and I've switched out the fork (star nut stripped out on the stock fork). Front wheel is in good shape.
I'm thinking to turn the bike into a utility bike/hauler/beater with a front basket and rear double basket.
My thought right now is to finish the single-speed conversion by switching the rear wheel out for a coaster brake wheel. I would also remove the rear caliper brake.
Dropouts are slightly diagonal, but I might still have to use a half-link to get the chain length just right.
Any thoughts on this?
08-30-17, 12:57 PM
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M60 looks like a MTB according to a quick search.
MTBs haven't had caliper brakes for ages.
So what bike is it?
Derailer gears hub have been mostly 130/135 mm for quite some time now.
Don't think I've seen a coaster brake that wide as stock.
You'll either have to compress the rear stays and align the dropouts, or widen the hub OLD with some spacers/washers - assuming the axle is long enough.
It's POSSIBLE to bend the chainstay when doing a coaster brake conversion. Not all frames can deal with the force from the reaction arm:
MTBs haven't had caliper brakes for ages.
So what bike is it?
Derailer gears hub have been mostly 130/135 mm for quite some time now.
Don't think I've seen a coaster brake that wide as stock.
You'll either have to compress the rear stays and align the dropouts, or widen the hub OLD with some spacers/washers - assuming the axle is long enough.
It's POSSIBLE to bend the chainstay when doing a coaster brake conversion. Not all frames can deal with the force from the reaction arm:
08-30-17, 01:31 PM
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What's the axle width?
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08-30-17, 02:04 PM
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Looks like an aluminum frame(?), so no bending (cold setting) of the chain stays. You'll need to add spacers to the hub. I've done this and it works perfectly well.
I'd suggest a Shimano CB-E110 hub. Inexpensive, reliable, durable, plenty of oomph and modulate well. Longer axles are available if needed.
I'd suggest a Shimano CB-E110 hub. Inexpensive, reliable, durable, plenty of oomph and modulate well. Longer axles are available if needed.
08-30-17, 02:35 PM
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Should be 135mm (originally a 9 speed MTB). Aluminum frame, so thanks for the info on bending - that was what I had in mind. But spacers shouldn't be an issue.
This is just a beater I'm playing around with; I don't want to spend any real money on it so the plan is to find a decent used coaster cruiser and use that wheel.
My major concern is what dabac brought up - can an aluminum chainstay handle a coaster brake?
This is just a beater I'm playing around with; I don't want to spend any real money on it so the plan is to find a decent used coaster cruiser and use that wheel.
My major concern is what dabac brought up - can an aluminum chainstay handle a coaster brake?
08-31-17, 06:24 AM
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Neighbor had a Huffy cruiser laying around so he let me appropriate the rear wheel. Axle was just barely long enough and had enough axle washers laying around to use as spacers. The arm strap had to be finagled but got it on.
As far as I can tell, there is no undue stress on the chainstay. Brake works, nice smooth ride.
But for my purposes, it's a bust. I loaded up the rear baskets and tested the braking coming downhill. Too much skidding; using just the front brake and coaster brake made it feel like the rear wanted to lift up.
Seems like some rear weight would have prevented some of the skidding, but it seemed worse when the baskets were loaded.
As far as I can tell, there is no undue stress on the chainstay. Brake works, nice smooth ride.
But for my purposes, it's a bust. I loaded up the rear baskets and tested the braking coming downhill. Too much skidding; using just the front brake and coaster brake made it feel like the rear wanted to lift up.
Seems like some rear weight would have prevented some of the skidding, but it seemed worse when the baskets were loaded.
08-31-17, 04:06 PM
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Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Neighbor had a Huffy cruiser laying around so he let me appropriate the rear wheel. Axle was just barely long enough and had enough axle washers laying around to use as spacers. The arm strap had to be finagled but got it on.
As far as I can tell, there is no undue stress on the chainstay. Brake works, nice smooth ride.
But for my purposes, it's a bust. I loaded up the rear baskets and tested the braking coming downhill. Too much skidding; using just the front brake and coaster brake made it feel like the rear wanted to lift up.
Seems like some rear weight would have prevented some of the skidding, but it seemed worse when the baskets were loaded.
As far as I can tell, there is no undue stress on the chainstay. Brake works, nice smooth ride.
But for my purposes, it's a bust. I loaded up the rear baskets and tested the braking coming downhill. Too much skidding; using just the front brake and coaster brake made it feel like the rear wanted to lift up.
Seems like some rear weight would have prevented some of the skidding, but it seemed worse when the baskets were loaded.
Hmmmm. The bike doesn't have super short chain stays, so I'm a little surprised how easily it locks up the rear, especially with a load back there.
Ahhhh. When you changed the fork, did that drop the front end much?
What kind of tire and pressure are on the rear? Hard (cheap) rubber and high PSI will add a lot to the ability to skid.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 08-31-17 at 04:11 PM.
09-01-17, 08:57 AM
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I've done it with a couple of the Fuji folder mountain bikes. they're steel though. one is a single speed now. the other is a three speed with coaster brake.
09-03-17, 02:59 PM
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Forks are the same length (within a few millimeters).
Probably was the cheap tires, as well as too much air (poor problem solving from staying up late and drinking beer while experimenting on the bike).
I thought I would get back to it this weekend, but instead spend the time working on other bikes. I returned my neighbor's wheel, so now I will be looking for a replacement.
Probably was the cheap tires, as well as too much air (poor problem solving from staying up late and drinking beer while experimenting on the bike).
I thought I would get back to it this weekend, but instead spend the time working on other bikes. I returned my neighbor's wheel, so now I will be looking for a replacement.
