Univega Alpino Worth it?
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Univega Alpino Worth it?
Looking at this univega Chromoly.
Its rusty and needs work, like tires, brakes, chain, gears etc...
Never worked on bicycles and hence wanted to check before I go too deep into it in terms of money. I have worked on cars, motorcycles and like to tinker with things so not an issue in terms of working on it.
Hence, weighing my options if I should consider it or no? I could spend up to $100-$150(MAX) in parts and doing the work on my own, is it worth it or I should pass?
Thanks for the advice and help.
Its rusty and needs work, like tires, brakes, chain, gears etc...
Never worked on bicycles and hence wanted to check before I go too deep into it in terms of money. I have worked on cars, motorcycles and like to tinker with things so not an issue in terms of working on it.
Hence, weighing my options if I should consider it or no? I could spend up to $100-$150(MAX) in parts and doing the work on my own, is it worth it or I should pass?
Thanks for the advice and help.
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Thrifty Bill
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Pass. Aim higher. Rusty and crusty.
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Depends on the cost. If it's under 50.00, I'd say it's worth it for the learning experience. It's a nice enough frame, but if it doesn't work out it won't be the end of the world. You'll need a few bicycle specific tools though. What do the sidewalls of the rims look like? Are there any pictures from the drivetrain side?
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The one bike I truly regret selling was a Univega Alpina Pro, but this isn't that and I see a lot of potential headaches. I suspect you'll learn more new swear words than repair techniques. Hold out for something less neglected for your first effort.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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Moved to Appraisals forum.
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My general advice on vintage rigid frame MTBs is to aim high. A used one today that may have originally cost $800 to $900 may sell for $25 more than one that originally sold for $250. For this extra $25, you will get top of the line frame materials, better wheels, much better components, better everything really. The difference in prices for old MTBs except for the scarce collectible ones is very small. A few dollars more yields a lot more bike.
Its easy to spot the top end models as they will have top end parts and better frame tubing, double butted cromoly at the least, often a name brand tubing, Suntour XC Pro or Shimano XT parts, and so on.
Rust and overall condition is pretty obvious. Avoid it. Rode hard and hung up wet is just that, you want a garage queen.
Its easy to spot the top end models as they will have top end parts and better frame tubing, double butted cromoly at the least, often a name brand tubing, Suntour XC Pro or Shimano XT parts, and so on.
Rust and overall condition is pretty obvious. Avoid it. Rode hard and hung up wet is just that, you want a garage queen.
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FWIW I think that was one of the nicer Univega MTBs from ‘90ish. If it is cheap, $50ish, and you can doo all the work it might be a good deal. I would recommend a early ‘80s “10 Speed” with friction shifting as a better bike to learn on
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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Personally I'd take clean and old over older high end. There's a lot to be said for a super clean old 'survivor' over a well ridden high end bike. I've got several run of the mill older bikes that are great riders, some are just as they were new, others I changed up a few bits and pieces to make it the way I wanted it. One of my best riding bikes is an old Nishiki Sport that I converted to a more upright bike using parts off a rather rough Nishiki Olympic I trash picked.
I avoid anything that looks like its sat outdoors for any length of time or any bike that looks like it spent time down the shore in the salt air. Rust, and worse yet, hidden rust is by far the worst thing that can happen to an old bike.
I avoid anything that looks like its sat outdoors for any length of time or any bike that looks like it spent time down the shore in the salt air. Rust, and worse yet, hidden rust is by far the worst thing that can happen to an old bike.
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