New vs old
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New vs old
I have a older Trek 1000, I bought it new around 2003. It came with a carbon fork, and I upgraded to Bontrager race wheels and a carbon seat post years ago. I have been hearing how frame technology has advanced since my bike, and even the newer alum frames are more comfortable and quicker than mine. I have found some close to new used bikes in my budget, but hate to spend the money unless there is a difference. Does anyone have any opinions on the difference in a almost new bike vs a 15 year old frame? They look different with a sloping top tube and more aero shape vs my bikes round tubes. Thanks for any help.
#2
don't try this at home.
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Is it like this example:
Bike Archive 2003 Trek 1000
8 speed with a triple crank 52/42/30. STI shifters. A nice bike. I was going to suggest a newer bike would have wider range gearing than a 2003, but the triple works great on flat roads in the 42 chainring, and steeper climbs in the 30 chainring.
How does it fit? Do you like the ride? That would be the biggest reason to get a newer bike.
~~~~~~~~
Also:
Does it shift gears reliably? Shifters and derailleurs can get wear and slop. (And can be replaced as needed.)
What tires do you have? Does it fit 25mm tires? Good, flexible tires (GP4000S for example) are the most cost effective upgrade. Stiffer, cut resistant tires get fewer flats, but the ride isn't as nice.
I really like the newer "shallow drop" bars, riding in the drops is a lot more comfortable, and easier to reach.
Bike Archive 2003 Trek 1000
8 speed with a triple crank 52/42/30. STI shifters. A nice bike. I was going to suggest a newer bike would have wider range gearing than a 2003, but the triple works great on flat roads in the 42 chainring, and steeper climbs in the 30 chainring.
How does it fit? Do you like the ride? That would be the biggest reason to get a newer bike.
~~~~~~~~
Also:
Does it shift gears reliably? Shifters and derailleurs can get wear and slop. (And can be replaced as needed.)
What tires do you have? Does it fit 25mm tires? Good, flexible tires (GP4000S for example) are the most cost effective upgrade. Stiffer, cut resistant tires get fewer flats, but the ride isn't as nice.
I really like the newer "shallow drop" bars, riding in the drops is a lot more comfortable, and easier to reach.
Last edited by rm -rf; 06-18-18 at 06:52 PM.
#3
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I've recently upgraded from a 80's steel framed Fuji to a (almost) new Trek Emonda that weighs in around 15 lbs. However the Fuji's parts had over the years all pretty much been substituted for newer 10spd parts and lightweight new wheels - all of which now reside on the Trek. And prior to this bike I'd never ridden a carbon bike and actually only been on a few aluminium ones as well so I've jumped forward a few decades in frame technology so here are my impressions.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
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rm-rf, that looks like my bike, but for some reason mine came with a carbon fork. I really like it, but I really don't have anything to compare it to. I might look out for a good deal on something a little newer, but plan on always keeping my old Trek. I have had too much enjoyment to ever part with it.
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I've recently upgraded from a 80's steel framed Fuji to a (almost) new Trek Emonda that weighs in around 15 lbs. However the Fuji's parts had over the years all pretty much been substituted for newer 10spd parts and lightweight new wheels - all of which now reside on the Trek. And prior to this bike I'd never ridden a carbon bike and actually only been on a few aluminium ones as well so I've jumped forward a few decades in frame technology so here are my impressions.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#6
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If your frame is doing what you want, there is no reason to replace it. If you want a lighter bike or you've decided that the geometry of it isn't letting you ride efficiently then go for another. Or I suppose if you need that excuse to convince anyone else about your intent to purchase, then it's as good as any excuse.
I found that low end bikes of both aluminum and carbon are as heavy as the mid to high grade bikes of old back a few years ago when I briefly considered a new bike. Aluminum currently can put you in a very light bike for less money with a high end component group than almost all carbons. Almost.
Carbon can put you in among the lightest if you got the money to spend for the better ones with the high end component group. As for ride comfort, I'm not sure I can really tell the difference. It's too subjective and will vary from person to person, model to model, and the riding conditions.
I found that low end bikes of both aluminum and carbon are as heavy as the mid to high grade bikes of old back a few years ago when I briefly considered a new bike. Aluminum currently can put you in a very light bike for less money with a high end component group than almost all carbons. Almost.
Carbon can put you in among the lightest if you got the money to spend for the better ones with the high end component group. As for ride comfort, I'm not sure I can really tell the difference. It's too subjective and will vary from person to person, model to model, and the riding conditions.
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I've recently upgraded from a 80's steel framed Fuji to a (almost) new Trek Emonda that weighs in around 15 lbs. However the Fuji's parts had over the years all pretty much been substituted for newer 10spd parts and lightweight new wheels - all of which now reside on the Trek. And prior to this bike I'd never ridden a carbon bike and actually only been on a few aluminium ones as well so I've jumped forward a few decades in frame technology so here are my impressions.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
First yes- it's nicer. The ride is smoother and the pickup feels much more instant. But here's the catch - after a few months, it's now just my bike and nothing special anymore. And my strava times - particularly up hills which I felt would surely drop have not - most of my records are still on the Fuji, despite the Trek "feeling" faster and 5lbs lighter. So I'd say do it but don't except your riding to elevate to a higher plane and keep an eye out for those bargains - last years tech is only marginally different than today but prices drop dramatically after a couple of years and the internet retailers also have great prices.
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My 30+ year old steel bike is a joy to ride. I'd say it has character, though I did recently put a 10-speed STI group on it. It does not detract from the ride quality of the bike. It gives up nothing compared to my other more modern bikes.
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Regardless of material, a Trek 1000 was a sort of basic bike racing bike. It isn't designed to be uber-stiff or silky smooth, but likely rides just fine with a carbon fork. You could easily spend $8000 and get a bike that comes with a much stiffer fork and isn't as comfortable, though it will be lighter. (The Trek Icon forks were fairly plush.)
Sometimes, it is just time for something new - but I'd keep the old bike going as a backup or rain bike. Otherwise, make the minor updates to keep "competitive" but don't go overboard.
Sometimes, it is just time for something new - but I'd keep the old bike going as a backup or rain bike. Otherwise, make the minor updates to keep "competitive" but don't go overboard.
#10
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When I bought my CF bike 12 years ago (yikes! 12 years), it felt much faster up the hills, and it felt like the power applied was transferred to the wheels better. It also gave a more comfortable ride. Was it faster overall though? I doubt it. But all the components were newer and worked better, 10sp Chorus vs. 7sp friction Campy NR. Brakes were much better, bars were better shaped, seat was better. I could ride it a lot further comfortably, which is important too. So my old steel bike is still around, sort of. My son has it, with all the upgrades I had done to bring it a little more up to date. 10sp wheels, new brakes, saddle. I'll take it for a spin myself every now and then, except he moved out of the house last year and took it with him. I offered to fix a few things this weekend for him and I'll take it for a spin.
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To a significant degree, a road bike is a road bike. A new groupset could be great - 11 speeds, and even current 105 would be a bunch nicer than 8sp Sora. You could also get bearings replaced or serviced. Those would likely make as much difference as a new bike.