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Racer Tech Thread

Old 06-13-19, 08:05 AM
  #5776  
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Originally Posted by cmh View Post
OK, I checked and I've got the 520, not the 510 (and not the 520+). I just had to actually use the manual to figure out where things are. Example - autopause was nowhere in the configuration or settings menu so I assumed it didn't have it. It is in the activities profile menu ... I had just assumed activities profiles was for putting in intervals or routes, or whatever, not configuring the main screen. So my bad for not finding it and other items, but on the other hand I found this on my last two computers without ever looking at a menu. This is just me being a Luddite.
The main benefit of a modern computers is the 'activity profiles' that let you store and use different settings/sensors for different bikes. You might want autopause set to 2mph on your road bike, but disabled on your MTB, etc.
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Old 06-15-19, 06:57 PM
  #5777  
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My new Lezyne Strip rear light doesn't fit very well on my bike. Aero integrated seat mast. The shape seems mostly okay, but the ladder rubber they give you isn't really quite long enough to attach around, it's meant for a seat post.

Any ideas?
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Old 06-15-19, 07:09 PM
  #5778  
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I started using reusable cable tie wraps when I lost the Lezyne rubber piece. The link if or 12 inch but you can buy whatever size you want.

https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3

I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
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Old 06-16-19, 08:09 AM
  #5779  
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Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
I started using reusable cable tie wraps when I lost the Lezyne rubber piece. The link if or 12 inch but you can buy whatever size you want.

https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3

I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
I had never seen those. Are they as tight as normal zip ties and how many re-uses do you get out of them?
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Old 06-16-19, 08:38 AM
  #5780  
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Originally Posted by Doge View Post
I had never seen those. Are they as tight as normal zip ties and how many re-uses do you get out of them?
They are as tight as regular ties. I have been using one for about 6 months and it seems as good as new or at least holds the light on.
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Old 06-16-19, 08:46 AM
  #5781  
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Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
They are as tight as regular ties. I have been using one for about 6 months and it seems as good as new or at least holds the light on.
I was asking about re-use. So how many times can you tighten, take off, tighten etc. I'm going to buy some and find out.

Finally a replacement for the toe strap.

Long after I stopped using toe clips I kept using toe clip straps, never really finding a replacement. Late 70s/early 80s I was in construction and introduced toe clip straps to the guys as tie downs for stuff on truck racks. YEars later they asked me where they could get them and I told them the history of pedals and the Internet still had them, but unlikely bike shops would.
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Old 06-16-19, 08:50 AM
  #5782  
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For the Lezyne light, I have to take it off the bike after every ride to recharge. So maybe I have reused it 75 times. I am not sure about toe clip straps. For the light, there is no force being put on the tie wrap to pull it apart. Just a thought.
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Old 06-16-19, 01:07 PM
  #5783  
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Voile Straps! Skiers call them backcountry duct tape because you can fix almost anything with them. Cheap, light, easy to find, easy to use and bomb proof.

https://www.voile.com/voile-straps.html
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Old 06-16-19, 05:55 PM
  #5784  
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I need to start looking at wheels for climbing. Once I hit under 145 even 45 deep wheels move me around on descents. Not nearly as bad as the 60's but bad enough I don't want to descend with em.
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Old 06-16-19, 08:05 PM
  #5785  
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
I need to start looking at wheels for climbing. Once I hit under 145 even 45 deep wheels move me around on descents. Not nearly as bad as the 60's but bad enough I don't want to descend with em.
I have some you can try locally.
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Old 06-19-19, 09:20 AM
  #5786  
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I've been on my Giant Advanced for the last 11 years, and it's been a good ride, but for that whole time I haven't had a backup bike. My old Giant can now be my training/backup bike and I'll finally have a race only (or group ride) steed.


Last edited by Yep; 06-19-19 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 06-19-19, 10:09 AM
  #5787  
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
I need to start looking at wheels for climbing. Once I hit under 145 even 45 deep wheels move me around on descents. Not nearly as bad as the 60's but bad enough I don't want to descend with em.
Funny timing, my Jet 4's were making a clanking noise descending. I almost called my wife to pick me up, but pressed on. The mechanic at the shop told me the front wheel is done, and I'll have to get the hubs rebuilt but since its 18 spoke, those are hard to find.

Anyway they're selling me some Kysrium Elites at cost, which is about as high as I want to go; next year the plan is to get a new road bike with disc brakes, so the last thing I want to do is spend $$$ on race wheels. I still have the 60's for crits and some training wheels, but considering those training wheels have broken spokes 4 times including once on a bunny hop, there's no way I'm descending 20 miles in those.
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Old 06-19-19, 10:40 AM
  #5788  
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I'm still on my pseudo-quest regarding wheels, which is funny considering I've also been on the wheels are kind of overrated bandwagon. I've been looking back at old rides from 3-4 years ago when I was less in shape and was regularly riding over 18mph, and I'm attributing that to the fact that I had some aero wheels (some cheap colnago branded ones), which I sold with my old bike. I was going over 18mph on rides at around 200np whereas rides in the past year on my Allez with stock wheels have been at 17ish at around 200w NP (last week I had 227w NP to average over 18 over 63miles). At least that's the simple explanation where I don't take the million other factors like wind and hills into account lol

Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
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Old 06-19-19, 12:16 PM
  #5789  
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I still have the original set of Giant 38mm aero alloy wheels that came with my Propel. 11spd. I got the Crockett up to speed as a cross and gravel only bike now. For a while it was using that wheelset while I carbon repaired the Propel last summer.

This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.

For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.

The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".

Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.

The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.

Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
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Old 06-19-19, 01:34 PM
  #5790  
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Originally Posted by hubcyclist View Post
I'm still on my pseudo-quest regarding wheels, which is funny considering I've also been on the wheels are kind of overrated bandwagon. I've been looking back at old rides from 3-4 years ago when I was less in shape and was regularly riding over 18mph, and I'm attributing that to the fact that I had some aero wheels (some cheap colnago branded ones), which I sold with my old bike. I was going over 18mph on rides at around 200np whereas rides in the past year on my Allez with stock wheels have been at 17ish at around 200w NP (last week I had 227w NP to average over 18 over 63miles). At least that's the simple explanation where I don't take the million other factors like wind and hills into account lol

Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
IMO, Triathlon (and Time Trialing) popularized it with the X amount of time of 40k, which really doesn't fit well into the discussion of road racing. That scenario only works for solo breakaways, and while there are benefits of race wheels, they don't use the context of what road or crit racers wound benefit from because its not as impressive. How the rider navigates the pack almost can almost completely mitigate it so then the benefits are times the racer is exposed to the wind, which is either going to be a pull or a sprint.

So if I go off one of the sites that claims aero wheels give you 65 seconds over normal ones, that's .065 of a second over 250 meters which is (I'm guessing here) is 2 bike lengths. That doesn't account for the jump, leadout, and timing which are more important. Also the bike industry now seems to think you can race on 60's in any condition...

I'm not trying to downsell them because I do think they are worth it but its not something you absolutely need to compete.
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Old 06-20-19, 06:30 AM
  #5791  
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
Also the bike industry now seems to think you can race on 60's in any condition...
In a cross wind a modern "U" shaped or optimized profile 60mm wheel is about the same as something smaller than 50mm in the classic "flat sided vee".

Essentially, with the older deep wheels the cross wind was pushing against a flat side wall on deep section wheels. Nowadays that profile facing a cross wind is somewhat curved and profiled. So, it presents less resistance to the cross wind.

Think of it like the old deep wheels were the shape of a wedge with a tire on top. The new ones are the shape of an oval with the tire as part of the oval.

But, we're talking probably in the early 2010-teens or earlier for that cheap flat side profile vee.
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Old 06-20-19, 09:08 AM
  #5792  
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
In a cross wind a modern "U" shaped or optimized profile 60mm wheel is about the same as something smaller than 50mm in the classic "flat sided vee".

Essentially, with the older deep wheels the cross wind was pushing against a flat side wall on deep section wheels. Nowadays that profile facing a cross wind is somewhat curved and profiled. So, it presents less resistance to the cross wind.

Think of it like the old deep wheels were the shape of a wedge with a tire on top. The new ones are the shape of an oval with the tire as part of the oval.

But, we're talking probably in the early 2010-teens or earlier for that cheap flat side profile vee.
For me, running Jet 4's (45mm) were fine until I got into the 140's. Granted, these are 2010 wheels so your conditions apply (def not oval). There are just too many windy descents in our area. Getting blasted with a crosswind that moves your front wheel while descending 45+ mph is one of the more scary things in this sport. I'm pretty sure the next bike I get will come with 50mm wheels, so we'll see how that goes. More than likely I am going to get some 30-35mm for road racing / training and use the 50's for crits.
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Old 06-20-19, 09:27 AM
  #5793  
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
I'm not trying to downsell them because I do think they are worth it but its not something you absolutely need to compete.
I agree, the last road race I did recently, I was very much in the mix the whole time. Although I've been doing a few fast group rides with guys lately who are much stronger than I am, of course I won't blame myself for lacking matches to close down gaps lol, but can't help but notice everyone with aero rims while I'm on stock box section wheels. If aero rims could help me close the gaps just a bit easier than on my basic wheels, I'd be all over them!
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Old 06-20-19, 11:12 AM
  #5794  
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Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
I still have the original set of Giant 38mm aero alloy wheels that came with my Propel. 11spd. I got the Crockett up to speed as a cross and gravel only bike now. For a while it was using that wheelset while I carbon repaired the Propel last summer.

This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.

For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.

The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".

Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.

The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.

Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
Quoting myself.

I found something from Surly that spaces the dropouts by 5mm. I can slot the brake a few mm to slide the shoe.

Their product specifically states it is for a rear facing dropout. Is it legal/design based wording to avoid trouble, or perhaps you "would dead" if you threw their dropout spacers on a road bike?

Frames have "dummy tabs" anyway. I'd assume they don't want the spacers falling downwards with a wheel/skewer or something.

Opinions? That'd be $40 vs. $250+ for Fouriers brakes.
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Old 06-20-19, 05:31 PM
  #5795  
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Re aero wheel depth

Beginning of the season on my Roval CL50's I never felt a thing. I've dropped about 15lbs since then (~145lbs). Windy descents are kinda sketch now, but not near as much as the older V-shaped wheels I've had in years past. Today I was a little gripped on a couple of the descents when semi trucks went past, but nothing beyond scary. I think the Trainerroad guys said it in the flo wheels podcast.. It's about predictability now on the newer shaped wheels.
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Old 06-20-19, 05:46 PM
  #5796  
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Good, its not just me. The 160 lb thicc boys on my group rides are looking at me like I'm crazy.
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Old 06-21-19, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
Good, its not just me. The 160 lb thicc boys on my group rides are looking at me like I'm crazy.
It's sad what we do to ourselves as cyclists...
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Old 06-21-19, 03:18 PM
  #5798  
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Originally Posted by furiousferret View Post
Good, its not just me. The 160 lb thicc boys on my group rides are looking at me like I'm crazy.
I think anything can happen in the mountains. When I lived in NorCal, we had a time trial that went over a climb through a wind farm. My wife and I would go to these events with several wheel choices and then wonder what to run. Any rider can be hit by a gust and blown off the road or lose control during a descent. My wife, at 108 pounds, can ride most anything but including the trispoke / disc combo in pretty windy conditions but mountain descents or through a wind farm - noooooooooo!

She rides 30 mm on her road bike and 45mm on her TT bike for training. If it is really windy in a TT, I put the 30 mm on her TT bike. I can ride the disc trispoke in windy conditions but sometimes I let up on the power during a gust and if I do that, I am better off with a standard wheel on the front. The incremental gains from wheels are important but not at the expense of power or safety.
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Old 06-22-19, 09:14 AM
  #5799  
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Originally Posted by hubcyclist View Post

Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
I hadn't really been considering the 530 because it's so new the reviews I was reading didn't mention it yet.

The reviews of it specifically look great though, and except for some physical button issues which should be all sorted by the time I get it, people seem to love it. It's certainly a great price for the features, plus all the mountain bike stuff might be nice in a couple years if I have more time and get back into that.

I don't know that I'll do trainer road (bit of money for a guy just getting back to riding period) but I am interested in creating my own workouts, and it seems Garmin connect can do that natively whereas with Wahoo I have to pay to use training peaks or something I think. It's very confusing though. I just want to be able to pick a known interval workout and stick it on my bike, without spending a ton of time or money.
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Old 06-23-19, 06:34 PM
  #5800  
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So I finally finished editing the video of the wind. Took me awhile, this is kind of a practice run for my Tahiti Videos (which I want to look good).


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