Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter OR rim adapter??
10-18-20, 04:56 AM
#26
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Given the failure reports, MAYBE a Presta-in-Schräder is easier to damage by rough handling while hand pumping.
Either I’ve had a lucky streak with rims and rim strips lasting decades. Or it’s really not important.
A flat is a flat. The reason for losing pressure has no influence on the immediate risk.
10-18-20, 11:12 AM
#27
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Uhh...sorry, but no. A sudden decompression through a major rent in the tube is very different to a pinhole leak's gradual deflation over several minutes. Very different effect on bicycle handling, especially if the front tire. I speak from personal experience.
10-18-20, 11:14 AM
#28
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10-18-20, 11:51 AM
#29
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Just bought a new low-budget winter commuter (Giant Escape Disc). Wheels come with Schrader-valve rims and tubes. My other bike has Presta valve stems. My CO2 cartridge inflators only work with Presta.
So should I:
1. Buy a Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter that I screw on the Schrader valve stem when I need to re-inflate the tube after a flat repair...
OR
2. Convert my wheel rims to smaller Presta-size holes using a different adapter (it inserts into the larger Schrader-specific hole in the rim and makes it smaller for the Presta valve stem to fit snugly) and then switch to presto valve tubes, just like my other bike?
Buying a whole new wheel-set that is better and lighter (and has Presta valves rims) would be my preference, but it'll cost a whole lot more and I can't really justify the expense right now.
So should I:
1. Buy a Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter that I screw on the Schrader valve stem when I need to re-inflate the tube after a flat repair...
OR
2. Convert my wheel rims to smaller Presta-size holes using a different adapter (it inserts into the larger Schrader-specific hole in the rim and makes it smaller for the Presta valve stem to fit snugly) and then switch to presto valve tubes, just like my other bike?
Buying a whole new wheel-set that is better and lighter (and has Presta valves rims) would be my preference, but it'll cost a whole lot more and I can't really justify the expense right now.
10-18-20, 11:53 AM
#30
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A SUDDEN flat is a sudden flat. There are other failure modes that will empty a tube just as fast as a herniating valve base. That failure mode does not add any new risk.
10-18-20, 11:58 AM
#31
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2. Convert my wheel rims to smaller Presta-size holes using a different adapter (it inserts into the larger Schrader-specific hole in the rim and makes it smaller for the Presta valve stem to fit snugly) and then switch to presto valve tubes, just like my other bike?
10-18-20, 01:02 PM
#32
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Back in a distant millennium, all good wheels were sewup and presta. Everything else was clincher and Schraeder. No overlap. Schraeder to presta adopters were common (so those with busted Silca puimps could walk to a gas station) but the reverse didn't exist. We used to make our own. For a completely sexist reason. We even called them "damsel in distress" adapters". For bailing out women with flats; it being a given they were riding clinchers.
10-18-20, 01:15 PM
#33
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Does anybody slide an ordinary washer over a presta valve stem anymore? That was the common presta tube in a Schraeder rim solution 40 years ago. I'd bend the washer for fit nicely against the tube track of the rim and looking to make sure the out edge of the washer was smooth. I'd look for a thin near fender washer and grind two sides down to be a nice fit inside the rim.
10-18-20, 03:57 PM
#34
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10-18-20, 08:03 PM
#35
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At least you walked back you prior statement that "a flat is a flat." Bottom line: if using a small valve in a big wheel hole is likely to cause sudden decompression, it's a failure mode that is best avoided when possible.
10-18-20, 08:04 PM
#36
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10-18-20, 08:05 PM
#37
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10-18-20, 11:49 PM
#38
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You seemed to be saying that a tube deflating due to a valve/hole mismatch would somehow be different than a tube deflating rapidly through any other reason.
And I don’t think it’s a likely event. I’ve ridden 6000+ miles/year for decades on what’s been at hand and never had it happen.
I’ve snapped beads, split brake tracks, torn off valve stems due to tire creep, seen tubes with uneven wall thickness etc but never had that.
But sure, somewhere there may be a make/model rim that has a larger than average at the base of the stem, or a tube with a smaller than average reinforcement around the base that makes this possible.
If so, it will still bring you back to that with an inflated tube, rapid deflation is always possible.
It might be more embarrassing to crash out due to something you could have noticed and taken care of during tube/tire install as opposed to slicing your tire open on road debris. But it’s still the same risk of rapid deflation.
Last edited by dabac; 10-19-20 at 12:25 AM.
10-19-20, 09:00 PM
#39
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My point was that as soon as you have an inflated tube, you also have the possibility of that tube deflating rapidly. It is a risk inherent to using inflated tubes.
You seemed to be saying that a tube deflating due to a valve/hole mismatch would somehow be different than a tube deflating rapidly through any other reason.
And I don’t think it’s a likely event. I’ve ridden 6000+ miles/year for decades on what’s been at hand and never had it happen.
I’ve snapped beads, split brake tracks, torn off valve stems due to tire creep, seen tubes with uneven wall thickness etc but never had that.
But sure, somewhere there may be a make/model rim that has a larger than average at the base of the stem, or a tube with a smaller than average reinforcement around the base that makes this possible.
If so, it will still bring you back to that with an inflated tube, rapid deflation is always possible.
It might be more embarrassing to crash out due to something you could have noticed and taken care of during tube/tire install as opposed to slicing your tire open on road debris. But it’s still the same risk of rapid deflation.
You seemed to be saying that a tube deflating due to a valve/hole mismatch would somehow be different than a tube deflating rapidly through any other reason.
And I don’t think it’s a likely event. I’ve ridden 6000+ miles/year for decades on what’s been at hand and never had it happen.
I’ve snapped beads, split brake tracks, torn off valve stems due to tire creep, seen tubes with uneven wall thickness etc but never had that.
But sure, somewhere there may be a make/model rim that has a larger than average at the base of the stem, or a tube with a smaller than average reinforcement around the base that makes this possible.
If so, it will still bring you back to that with an inflated tube, rapid deflation is always possible.
It might be more embarrassing to crash out due to something you could have noticed and taken care of during tube/tire install as opposed to slicing your tire open on road debris. But it’s still the same risk of rapid deflation.
10-19-20, 11:52 PM
#40
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Nope, you're parsing words again. You might as well argue that that seatbelts are of no value because a) there are plenty of other ways to die in a car crash with your seatbelt on, and b) it's never happened to you. You cannot simultaneously argue that a sudden decompressions is different and inherently more dangerous than slow deflation (you finally agree that this was true) AND that a sudden decompression from a burst tube that was protruding through a large valve hole is no big deal since similar sudden decompressions can happen for other reasons. Bottom line: it's about risk mitigation and reduction. Your anecdotal experience might give you reassurance, but it's just one guy's experience. Mechanically inflating a tube to high pressure with several mm of open rim around the valve can reasonably be expected to eventually erode the tube or the valve stem and produce a sudden decompression. Reducing that risk by matching the valve stem to correct rim hole is totally logical and reasonable.
You called the tube herniating through the valve hole a ”nightmare scenario”.
Do you then consider ALL reasons for rapid pressure loss ”nightmare scenarios”?
In that case, all is fine and I have no further argument.
To me it seemed like you singled out valve hole tube failures as being extra nasty, which is a distinction I can’t see.
And since blowouts as such are an unavoidable risk, I can’t see why you’d hold one reason above the others.
10-20-20, 12:24 AM
#41
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My advice is to buy a new wheelset. You won’t be happy with any other suggestion.
It’ll only be a few hundred dollars, but with that investment comes the peace of mind that everything goes together as intended.
Besides, you will feel the extra weight of the current wheels with every pedal stroke.
John
It’ll only be a few hundred dollars, but with that investment comes the peace of mind that everything goes together as intended.
Besides, you will feel the extra weight of the current wheels with every pedal stroke.
John
10-20-20, 07:39 AM
#42
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Phew, I'm not sure I'm glad that I waded through that discussion 
. Personally, I believe Presta valves are a better choice for bicycle tires. I like their "passive" function while inflating opposed the function of Schrader valves that require an "action" to both inflate and deflate. That said, I have several bikes and some have tubes with Presta valve'd wheels and some with Schrader valves. I will say I don't have any with one of each 
but from a practical point of view, having rims drilled for Schrader valves would have advantages. They would be compatible with both valve types and for those that worry about "herniation" or "rapid deflation" issues, the use of small washers and/or the threaded adaptors would ease their minds. If, while on an extended ride in an "unsophisticated" region (i.e. no Presta valve'd tubes at the local hardware store 
), a tube with a Schrader valve would save the day 
. Just sayin'.
. Personally, I believe Presta valves are a better choice for bicycle tires. I like their "passive" function while inflating opposed the function of Schrader valves that require an "action" to both inflate and deflate. That said, I have several bikes and some have tubes with Presta valve'd wheels and some with Schrader valves. I will say I don't have any with one of each but from a practical point of view, having rims drilled for Schrader valves would have advantages. They would be compatible with both valve types and for those that worry about "herniation" or "rapid deflation" issues, the use of small washers and/or the threaded adaptors would ease their minds. If, while on an extended ride in an "unsophisticated" region (i.e. no Presta valve'd tubes at the local hardware store ), a tube with a Schrader valve would save the day . Just sayin'.
10-20-20, 08:13 AM
#43
aka Phil Jungels
I think I will look into those schrader to presta adapters! It sure would be nice to have only one kind of pump head!
10-20-20, 08:40 AM
#44
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One more thing for the OP, if you do go to a new presta wheelset, you might want to also look into how to convert your quick release disc hubs to a thru-axle setup for safety reasons.
I’m not familiar with what is available for your existing fork. It may be necessary to swap out the existing quick release fork on the escape for one that will accept a thru-axle.
To keep costs down, I would only be concerned with the front hub setup since that is where most of the stopping power is applied.
Down the road you can look into adapting the rear, or swapping out the frame. If you swap out the frame, I’d look for one where you can transfer your components over.
John
I’m not familiar with what is available for your existing fork. It may be necessary to swap out the existing quick release fork on the escape for one that will accept a thru-axle.
To keep costs down, I would only be concerned with the front hub setup since that is where most of the stopping power is applied.
Down the road you can look into adapting the rear, or swapping out the frame. If you swap out the frame, I’d look for one where you can transfer your components over.
John
10-20-20, 07:03 PM
#46
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10-20-20, 07:31 PM
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However... an inexplicable variation in the experiences of (presumably) equally competent users, is a hallmark of a quality or design problem.
10-20-20, 08:03 PM
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Does anybody slide an ordinary washer over a presta valve stem anymore? That was the common presta tube in a Schraeder rim solution 40 years ago. I'd bend the washer for fit nicely against the tube track of the rim and looking to make sure the out edge of the washer was smooth. I'd look for a thin near fender washer and grind two sides down to be a nice fit inside the rim.
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