New Chain Issues
06-14-20, 02:04 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
New Chain Issues
This is my second road bike but the first I have taken seriously, just finished my first 1000k on it with 105 Shimano R7000 and decided to replace the chain with a KMC 11 Speed Gold Chain. I matched the chain length to the previous chain during install. When in the two biggest sprocket on the cassette and on the 50 chainring it will drop to the 34 chainring, if I am hill climbing and the tension is great it sometimes holds. No issues in the 34 chainring at all or in the 50 at the smaller sprockets. It feels a lot smoother than the old chain, I only did about 5km testing it out and noticed the issue, which brought me here looking for advice.
06-14-20, 03:02 AM
#2
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Fuji Tahoe, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
366 Posts
Are you sure you didn't drop an extra link?
Likes For tntyz:
06-14-20, 07:15 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
The new chain has the exact same link count as the old. Not the issue than.
I was very rough on the chain when I first got it, cleaned up my shifting and then decided to upgrade from the stock shimano chain to the KMC 11 Speed.
Still do not have a fix to the issue. It only has trouble in the 50 Chainring with the 25 & 28 sprocket.
Still do not have a fix to the issue. It only has trouble in the 50 Chainring with the 25 & 28 sprocket.
06-14-20, 08:20 AM
#6
Senior Member
This is my second road bike but the first I have taken seriously, just finished my first 1000k on it with 105 Shimano R7000 and decided to replace the chain with a KMC 11 Speed Gold Chain. I matched the chain length to the previous chain during install. When in the two biggest sprocket on the cassette and on the 50 chainring it will drop to the 34 chainring, if I am hill climbing and the tension is great it sometimes holds. No issues in the 34 chainring at all or in the 50 at the smaller sprockets. It feels a lot smoother than the old chain, I only did about 5km testing it out and noticed the issue, which brought me here looking for advice.
Interesting that you didn't see this happening on the Shimano chain.
06-14-20, 09:24 AM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
You may want to reconsider your gear selection. This is cross-chaining which will generally run poorly and cause more rapid chain wear. Dropping down to the 34 chainring and running in the middle of the cassette will be smoother and help your chain last longer.
Interesting that you didn't see this happening on the Shimano chain.
Interesting that you didn't see this happening on the Shimano chain.
06-14-20, 10:12 AM
#8
Senior Member
I use a 52-34 chainring and 11-28 cassette on SRAM. I really, really try not to cross-chain and pay attention to my big to small shifts b/c of the wide range. If I do cross chain it will sometimes pop off the 52, but only if I'm in the 28 and normally when I have a dirty drivetrain. Having issues in the 25 makes me think something other than alignment is up.
06-14-20, 11:31 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Adjust the trim position of your FD.
06-14-20, 12:54 PM
#11
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,811 Times
in
3,319 Posts
Make sure your front DR is still fully going to the high limit. Shift into the 50 and then pull on the bare cable. If the DR moves very much, then give a partial turn or two to the inline adjuster. If you don't have one, then you'll have to re-secure the cable in the holdfast which might be more issues for you if your DIY abilities and sensibilities aren't up to par.
Possibly could be the high limit needs to be moved some. But that's rarer.
Don't worry about the cross-chaining nay-sayers. Just pity them that their bikes can't do it well. <grin>
It's not like you are cross-chaining for a long time during the ride. If you are, you need to change your gearing.
Possibly could be the high limit needs to be moved some. But that's rarer.
Don't worry about the cross-chaining nay-sayers. Just pity them that their bikes can't do it well. <grin>
It's not like you are cross-chaining for a long time during the ride. If you are, you need to change your gearing.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-14-20 at 12:58 PM.
06-14-20, 01:28 PM
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Make sure your front DR is still fully going to the high limit. Shift into the 50 and then pull on the bare cable. If the DR moves very much, then give a partial turn or two to the inline adjuster. If you don't have one, then you'll have to re-secure the cable in the holdfast which might be more issues for you if your DIY abilities and sensibilities aren't up to par.
Possibly could be the high limit needs to be moved some. But that's rarer.
Don't worry about the cross-chaining nay-sayers. Just pity them that their bikes can't do it well. <grin>
It's not like you are cross-chaining for a long time during the ride. If you are, you need to change your gearing.
Possibly could be the high limit needs to be moved some. But that's rarer.
Don't worry about the cross-chaining nay-sayers. Just pity them that their bikes can't do it well. <grin>
It's not like you are cross-chaining for a long time during the ride. If you are, you need to change your gearing.
06-14-20, 02:21 PM
#13
Full Member
This is my second road bike but the first I have taken seriously, just finished my first 1000k on it with 105 Shimano R7000 and decided to replace the chain with a KMC 11 Speed Gold Chain. I matched the chain length to the previous chain during install. When in the two biggest sprocket on the cassette and on the 50 chainring it will drop to the 34 chainring, if I am hill climbing and the tension is great it sometimes holds. No issues in the 34 chainring at all or in the 50 at the smaller sprockets. It feels a lot smoother than the old chain, I only did about 5km testing it out and noticed the issue, which brought me here looking for advice.
The basis of this problem all started with Lance Armstrong wanting an extra gear for climbing and they changed from the super reliable 8 speed to the 9 and the cog race began.
Likes For RiceAWay:
06-14-20, 02:47 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Are you adjusting while in the trim position? If you're adjusting so that there's minimal gap between the chain and FD cage while in the largest cogs, you should be doing so while in the trim position.
Likes For WhyFi:
06-14-20, 04:08 PM
#15
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,811 Times
in
3,319 Posts
They still make those "super reliable" 8 speed rears if you want them. Or are currently happily riding one. <grin>
06-14-20, 04:34 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,954
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3955 Post(s)
Liked 7,303 Times
in
2,948 Posts
So, if it hadn't been for Lance Armstrong, we'd still be using 8 speed cassettes? Forget about doping, this is the real story!
06-16-20, 12:30 PM
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Adjusting the trim for the H on front derailleur fixed the issue. I can tell at times it wants to come off but it cannot due to the adjustments.
06-18-20, 05:59 PM
#19
Non omnino gravis
I never use the two biggest cogs while in the big ring, or the smallest two cogs when in the small ring. Because there's you know... no need. Bish bosh, done.
__________________
Likes For DrIsotope:
