Question re: rear derailleur on flatbar road bikes
#1
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Question re: rear derailleur on flatbar road bikes
Yeah, I know I should use a dropbar on my Domane 4.3. I tried it many times but just don’t have the same brake control (small hands) and stability. With people wearing earbuds, other bikes and cars to navigate, I need the best brake control and stability I can get. BTW, I’m not a newbie biker.
My question for flatbar road bikers.... I’m currently using Shimano Tiagra 4600 flatbar shifters. The crank is a Shimano 105 and the biggest rear cassette is 34t. The front derailleur shifts fine, but the rear is fidgety. I’ve tried a Tiagra 4601 rear derailleur, a Shimano 105 5701 rear derailleur, and a Microshift R10. I used it with and without the Road Link hanger extender. I’m not 100% satisfied with any of the rear derailleurs–seems to work fine then sometimes hiccups under load. What shifters and rear derailleurs are you using on your road bikes? Have you gone to MTB shifters and derailleurs?
My question for flatbar road bikers.... I’m currently using Shimano Tiagra 4600 flatbar shifters. The crank is a Shimano 105 and the biggest rear cassette is 34t. The front derailleur shifts fine, but the rear is fidgety. I’ve tried a Tiagra 4601 rear derailleur, a Shimano 105 5701 rear derailleur, and a Microshift R10. I used it with and without the Road Link hanger extender. I’m not 100% satisfied with any of the rear derailleurs–seems to work fine then sometimes hiccups under load. What shifters and rear derailleurs are you using on your road bikes? Have you gone to MTB shifters and derailleurs?
#2
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Older bike: SRAM Apex front/rear derailleurs, crank (48/32), and cassette (PG1090)/chain. Shifters: 10spd SRAM flat-bar DoubleTap. Going on 10 years; it all works flawlessly.
Newer bike: SRAM NX shifter/rear derailleur; SunRace cassette (11-42); generic stock 1x crank, 42 tooth. No issues; works flawlessly.
Newer bike: SRAM NX shifter/rear derailleur; SunRace cassette (11-42); generic stock 1x crank, 42 tooth. No issues; works flawlessly.
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No one can tell from here. Hold the bike closer to the computer screen.
Possibilities? Stuck chain link. Bent derailleur hanger. Shoddy set-up. I have used 10-speed Tiagra and a 105 derailleur .... awesome stuff. I have used a variety of MTB gear on various bikes through the years.
If they hiccough under load .... are you shifting under load? That might be the problem. Otherwise a sticky link or maybe a bent derailleur cage so that the chain comes off the lower jockey wheel----but you wouldn't see that on two different derailleurs. Bent frame, bent hanger, bad chain, bad set-up.
Or ... something else.
Possibilities? Stuck chain link. Bent derailleur hanger. Shoddy set-up. I have used 10-speed Tiagra and a 105 derailleur .... awesome stuff. I have used a variety of MTB gear on various bikes through the years.
If they hiccough under load .... are you shifting under load? That might be the problem. Otherwise a sticky link or maybe a bent derailleur cage so that the chain comes off the lower jockey wheel----but you wouldn't see that on two different derailleurs. Bent frame, bent hanger, bad chain, bad set-up.
Or ... something else.
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I ran Tiagra flatbar shifters with a lowly Sora RD and it was perhaps the slickest shifting system I have ever ridden. Having gone through that many RDs, I'd start thinking the shifter might be the issue. What is the one constant through all the ineffective changes?
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Are you using an index shifting set-up, and are both your shifter, RD and cassette the proper number of speeds (9-10-11)? If not you'll have issues regardless if Shimano, SRAM, or Microshift. I use a Microshift RD and Shimano bar-end shifters on my favorite 9-speed roadie (actually a touring bike), and no problems. I had a few issues up front, but that was from cable stretch in the first few weeks; nothing a little adjustment couldn't fix. MTB-style flat bar shifters should be the same situation.
If friction shifting, its just a matter of adjusting the max out-and-in travel distance of the RD, then getting used to the shift points. Cable stretch will have an effect on friction shift systems, too, and require a little adjustment in the first few weeks.
If friction shifting, its just a matter of adjusting the max out-and-in travel distance of the RD, then getting used to the shift points. Cable stretch will have an effect on friction shift systems, too, and require a little adjustment in the first few weeks.
#8
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Occam's razor applies here. The simplest solution.... If three different rd's don't work then it must be the shifter. Thanks for the direction.
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Most likely = cables/housing.
2nd most likely = hanger/RD alignment.
After that, cassette, chain, equipment mismatch.
Shifter is pretty much the least likely, IMO.