Replaced brakes now rubbing on rim
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Replaced brakes now rubbing on rim
Hi,
I would appriciate some newbie advice.
I have a cheap bike with block brakes which I've had to replace as they were making a squeaking noise, I replaced the pads no problem.
But the brake pads now slightly rub on the wheel rim - which they didn't before.
To replace the pads, I had to release the brake cable and reattach it, it was originally attached about halfway along the end, but now I've attached it at the very end and it still rubs on the rims, and so there is no possibility of letting the cable out any more.
Am I missing something?
Thanks.
I would appriciate some newbie advice.
I have a cheap bike with block brakes which I've had to replace as they were making a squeaking noise, I replaced the pads no problem.
But the brake pads now slightly rub on the wheel rim - which they didn't before.
To replace the pads, I had to release the brake cable and reattach it, it was originally attached about halfway along the end, but now I've attached it at the very end and it still rubs on the rims, and so there is no possibility of letting the cable out any more.
Am I missing something?
Thanks.
#2
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I'm missing A Lot ... of information from you.
May need someone who can See the problem Text and your descriptions, wont do It.
keep fussing over them if you have no one in the town that Knows Bike Mechanics .. (a Shop that sells Bikes Perhaps?)
Pick up A Book on bike mechanics, or get one from the Public Library
May need someone who can See the problem Text and your descriptions, wont do It.
keep fussing over them if you have no one in the town that Knows Bike Mechanics .. (a Shop that sells Bikes Perhaps?)
Pick up A Book on bike mechanics, or get one from the Public Library
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-31-15 at 09:29 AM.
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Many brakes have a barrel adjuster either at the lever, or at the caliper. This can be screwed in, which will open the brakes a tiny bit. If you have done that, and the cable clamp is at the very end of the cable, you may need a longer cable to give more room for adjustment. If so, after installing, cut the extra cable, leaving 4-5 inches beyond the clamp.
Also, is your wheel a bit out of true, so that it only hits the brake pads at certain spots ?? If so, straightening the wheel may be part of the solution.
Also, is your wheel a bit out of true, so that it only hits the brake pads at certain spots ?? If so, straightening the wheel may be part of the solution.
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What you're saying sounds like you need more brake cable. Make sure your barrel is completely screwed in and give it another pull. A new brake cable cost like 3-5 bucks at a shop. You can do that. Or..technically you can cheat by cutting your brake housing shorter...which could help you if you have a good set of cutters and you have the extra housing hanging around unnecessarily. Which you should do if your housing is all whack.
I would much rather go with buying a new brake cable. Don't mess up your housing if you're not familiar with it.
Positioning Brakes
1. Unscrew the barrel a bit (either at your brake lever or at your brake caliper. Completely slacken the brake cable by releasing the Allen key bolt on the caliper itself.
2. Push both the brake pads onto the rim while at the same time pulling the cable and securing it with the allen key bolt (taut)
3. Your pads should now be very close or rubbing on the rim. So, loosen the cable tension by screwing in the barrel from part 1. You'll see your pads slowly start to move away from the rim.
4. Try again if you're not satisfied. This also works in reverse by tightening brake bolt with loose slack and having a barrel completely screwed in. Unscrew barrel to get pads moving closer to brakes.
Toeing brakes (Easy way)
1. Lightly loosen the brake pads with their corresponding allen key 'cone-looking' screw.
2. Position the pads nicely so they hit the rim square while holding down the corresponding brake lever. Get those pads nicely centered and squared onto the rim.
3. Satisfied? Tigthen bolts to secure brake pads in place. yay you're done.
*Wheeltruing might also be an issue if your wheel is warping side to side and hitting a pad every turn.
I would much rather go with buying a new brake cable. Don't mess up your housing if you're not familiar with it.
Positioning Brakes
1. Unscrew the barrel a bit (either at your brake lever or at your brake caliper. Completely slacken the brake cable by releasing the Allen key bolt on the caliper itself.
2. Push both the brake pads onto the rim while at the same time pulling the cable and securing it with the allen key bolt (taut)
3. Your pads should now be very close or rubbing on the rim. So, loosen the cable tension by screwing in the barrel from part 1. You'll see your pads slowly start to move away from the rim.
4. Try again if you're not satisfied. This also works in reverse by tightening brake bolt with loose slack and having a barrel completely screwed in. Unscrew barrel to get pads moving closer to brakes.
Toeing brakes (Easy way)
1. Lightly loosen the brake pads with their corresponding allen key 'cone-looking' screw.
2. Position the pads nicely so they hit the rim square while holding down the corresponding brake lever. Get those pads nicely centered and squared onto the rim.
3. Satisfied? Tigthen bolts to secure brake pads in place. yay you're done.
*Wheeltruing might also be an issue if your wheel is warping side to side and hitting a pad every turn.
Last edited by mark2810; 12-30-15 at 01:17 PM.
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Thanks for your replies.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
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Check that the brake housing ends (Silver housing ends) aren't mounted on top of any barrels. Every now and then this happens to me on my bikes.
Makes the sudden lack of cable really confusing.
Follow the cable through its housing from the start of the brake lever all the way to the end. Make sure everything is seated correctly. After that, if all else fails grab the cable with some pliers and give it a light yank to make sure all slack is gone. Maybe you have some slack in your housing.
As well, you may not have needed new pads. Sometimes oils and grime get on the rim, just a good clean with rubbing alcohol and you're off again with no squeaking.
Makes the sudden lack of cable really confusing.
Follow the cable through its housing from the start of the brake lever all the way to the end. Make sure everything is seated correctly. After that, if all else fails grab the cable with some pliers and give it a light yank to make sure all slack is gone. Maybe you have some slack in your housing.
As well, you may not have needed new pads. Sometimes oils and grime get on the rim, just a good clean with rubbing alcohol and you're off again with no squeaking.
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Thanks for your replies.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
Make sure you get the correct cable for your brand and style of brakes.
Drop bar "racing" bike brake levers have a different cable end than flat bar hybrid-mounting bike cable end. Some cable come with both ends, and you snip off the one you don't need. Take a look at yours before ordering.
Info:
https://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
https://hub.chainreactioncycles.com/b...s-buying-guide
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 12-30-15 at 02:25 PM.
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I bought these in the end:
Complete set Brake+Gear Front Rear outer bike cables Bicycle cable UK | eBay
I think they'll do the job.
Complete set Brake+Gear Front Rear outer bike cables Bicycle cable UK | eBay
I think they'll do the job.
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After you cut the outer housing to length, check each cut to make sure there are no burrs or sharp end that will rub against the cable. Depending on your cutters, you may need a little cleanup for smooth cable movement.
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Rubs on both sides? Maybe just need to be centered?
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You probably didn't need to replace them; squeaking is usually due to lack of toe-in...
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Thanks for your replies.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
My first thought was that I needed a longer brake cable, but then when lined up the new blocks with the old blocks they seemed the same size and so I was unsure why, if the old ones fitted fine why the new ones rubbed...
I'll get some more cable from Ebay I think.
If your cable ends just out of the anchor bolt you should get a new cable.
Cheers
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