john m flores 

I got the Park Tool. Anything I should know before starting? Thanks

EDIT It's a steel hanger. Bike Friday All Packa

Koyote

Umm...Clean your bike?

roadcrankr

Brave man to perform this on a non-replaceable hanger.
It almost looks like a compound bend. Hopefully not...and that your derailleur survived.
Good luck, Johnny!

rm -rf

EDIT--a non-replaceable dropout! I've never tried to fix one of those. Hopefully it's stronger than the replaceable dropouts, which are designed to fail before the frame they are attached to.

The Park video is easy to follow.
In addition, I suggest loosening the rear quick release and re-tighten with the wheel on the ground, instead of tightening on the stand, for better accuracy.

I had a couple feet of string to tie onto the derailleur to hang it from the frame, instead of letting it dangle on the chain.
I used grease on the tool threads before attaching it to the derailleur.

Note the use of the o-ring indicators for moving the tool past the stays accurately.

For your very bent hanger, it's not necessary to do the "9 o'clock-3 o'clock", etc, at first. just check a few spots and slowly bend it back to a fairly reasonable starting point for the final tuning. move the tool around the wheel, not just from one direction.
I'm guessing the hanger could break when bending it back from this much damage. The video says "if the hanger can be straightened sucessfully, it's strong enough to use". That kind of surprised me.

I got a 10mm nut at the local hardware store to thread onto the tool when I wasn't using it, so the threads stay clean.

FBinNY 

First of all aluminum can be VERY unforgiving of cold work. It's already been bent once, and yours will be the second. So the key is to minimize the amount of work and straightening in a single pass. The good news is that the bend is more of a gentle curve than a hard bend, so will most likely be OK to work cold.

Start by finding the angles of bend and twist using the gauge to find the lowest and highest points and bending on that line, so both are resolved together. You'll need to overshoot SLIGHTLY to allow for spring back.

Heat can be your friend, but can damage the paint. I use a deep fryer which allows a controlled temp in the 400F range. If you go that route leave the dropout in the oil for 10 mins or so for a good heat soak. Then be ready to work before it cools.

zandoval 

Heat it up and bend away...

But I would do this with a replacement derailleur hanger plan in mind. It makes it much easier to tolerate when it snaps off. I would go as far as having the new derailleur hanger in my pocket before making the bend.

And yes Stud... Cleaning up that bike is a really good start... Ha

veganbikes

Clean the bike first, always keep that thing pretty clean it will run better and be less likely to have issues like that. They can still happen clean or not but less likely to happen when things are clean and well maintained.

Make sure you use the same spot on the rim at every point you are checking and bending the hanger. I recommend the valve stem that way you have the same reference point and it is an easy one to find and use. The heat will help as well but can damage paint a little but honestly black nail polish/touch up paint should solve that pretty well.

FBinNY Do you do a beer batter for your dropouts or maybe a thinner tempura batter or is it a three step dredge? One good frying tip is use alcohol like Vodka instead of water as it will make things crispier.

FBinNY 

Frames with integral hangers aren't set up to accept replacement hangers. Of course, if there's enough meat there, a skilled mechanic can modify it to mount a replaceable hanger, but I'm talking about an advanced skill level. I wouldn't expect that in someone asking if straightening us OK.

This is totally unnecessary unless the wheel is badly untrue. On a true wheel, every point is on the same plane, square to the axle.

I love various raw veggies in tempura. My favorite is thick cut onion slabs, ie. 10mm or so, fried until just tender. Sometimes, I'll salt the onion first, otherwise dip in a sauce to eat. The alcohol trick sounds interesting, I'll give it a shot.

choddo

Ref the dirt - that just looks like one ride’s worth, the one where the crash happened I should imagine! But I am definitely curious how the cassette is that much cleaner than the chain

Kai Winters

Take your time and go slowly...small, incremental adjustments rather than trying to do it in one mighty bend...

rm -rf

Just the small cogs are clean. Using only low gears on the ride, I guess.

Crankycrank

Just a note to everyone that the OP updated his post to say the hanger/frame is steel, not aluminum. I'd say you have very good odds that this will turn out OK. I would recommend getting the dropout alignment checked as well after straightening the hanger and then check the hanger alignment again. From the photo the dropout looks like it may have been tweaked a little too.

john m flores 

Thanks for the responses, everyone. To clarify:

1. It's a steel frame and I've been in contact with the manufacturer (Bike Friday). They think it will bend back fine.
2. That mud is, as choddo guessed, is from the last ride that precipitated this fine mess. This was a month ago, right before the holidays. I dejectedly trudged home and put the bike away. I purchased the tool after the new year and am ready to give it a try.
3. I have no idea how or why the cassette stayed clean.
4. I have not checked to see if the wheel is still true. I will use a consistent reference point, i.e., the part of the rim with the valve stem. I'll likely check trueness first.

Thanks again.

choddo

Astonishing tractor resemblance

Jeff Wills

Yep, that’s some sticky mud for sure.

Where are you? Oregon & Washington got snow & ice last week so I can’t see the mud getting that soupy here.

Polaris OBark

If it is the newer Park tool that is a rip-off of the Abby Hanger Alignment Gauge, you should be fine.

If it is the older huge sloppy Park tool, buy the new tool, or better, the Abby HAG. Then you should be fine.

If you do break your frame, get a new bike with a direct-mount Transmission (or at least a UDH).

Polaris OBark

New Jersey, but admittedly he hasn't specified which exit.

Polaris OBark

I'm on a roll today ...

wheelreason

7A, please let it be 7A...

grumpus

I'd start by getting it somewhere near straight using vise grips or a crescent wrench, so you can limit the major bending to the mid/upper part of the hanger; if it was a bare frame I'd use a bench vise. It looks like you might need to close the dropout a little too: in that case the bench vise would definitely be my preferred tool. Then finish it off with the alignment tool. Make sure you screw it in firmly, and that it lies flat against the hanger. Tweak a little bit, check against the wheel in three places, repeat as required.

icemilkcoffee 

Agreed. I would just unbolt that rear triangle and put the dropout in a bench vice.

serotta

Follow the same advise my dear old Dad gave me about tightening any bolt. Tighten it until it cracks, then back off 1/4 turn. Same with straightening a bent hanger.

grumpus

OFC - I forgot it's a folder. DOH.

Jeff Wills

I think that’s spelled “D’oh!”

And if you’re ever in Oregon, visit Springfield… they have a series of Simpsons murals.

https://www.oregonlive.com/living/20...outputType=amp

grumpus

If he breaks his frame he can get it fixed, it's steel.