Base tape not making full contact on rim at valve section.
#1
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Base tape not making full contact on rim at valve section.
Hi Guys,
So i got myself a used pair of Araya Super Aero tubular rims and had them built up with DA 7400 8 speed. Today I mounted some Vittorias and Conti Sprinter Gatorskins to see which I would prefer on them aesthetically. When mounting the tubulars I noticed that at the tire base tape does not contact the rim fully around the valve area. I have included some pictures here where it may be a little difficult to tell but if you look closely you can see the base tape approaching the valve region detaches from the rim. I dont think it is a complete detach, the more central portion of the base tape seems to still make contact. The issue seems to mostly be with the side sections of the base tape. Would this be an issue when riding? Will try to upload some clearer photos tom. I did use a brand new and a used tubular pumped up to about 90 psi. Do you think it could have anything to do with the rim damage near the valve section? Any input appreciated.
Also included some of the photos I took, feel free to tell me which combo of tire, rim you think looks best. Ignore the bar tape color as it will be changed to match whatever I combo I decide to run. I originally thought tan wall would be the best looking but because of how bright the white frame and bright bar tape is, that all black tire is looking super clean to me.
Araya Aero clinchers with tan wall
Aero 4's with black
Super Aero tubular tan wall
Super Aero tubular black
So i got myself a used pair of Araya Super Aero tubular rims and had them built up with DA 7400 8 speed. Today I mounted some Vittorias and Conti Sprinter Gatorskins to see which I would prefer on them aesthetically. When mounting the tubulars I noticed that at the tire base tape does not contact the rim fully around the valve area. I have included some pictures here where it may be a little difficult to tell but if you look closely you can see the base tape approaching the valve region detaches from the rim. I dont think it is a complete detach, the more central portion of the base tape seems to still make contact. The issue seems to mostly be with the side sections of the base tape. Would this be an issue when riding? Will try to upload some clearer photos tom. I did use a brand new and a used tubular pumped up to about 90 psi. Do you think it could have anything to do with the rim damage near the valve section? Any input appreciated.
Also included some of the photos I took, feel free to tell me which combo of tire, rim you think looks best. Ignore the bar tape color as it will be changed to match whatever I combo I decide to run. I originally thought tan wall would be the best looking but because of how bright the white frame and bright bar tape is, that all black tire is looking super clean to me.
Araya Aero clinchers with tan wall
Aero 4's with black
Super Aero tubular tan wall
Super Aero tubular black
#2
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The rim does seem to be damaged but the glue may hold the tire w/o issue.
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LeSexyFishorse There was another thread last week about tubulars not seating due to the valve stem. Here is a link,
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-question.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-question.html
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Doesn't that bump on the rim make the brakes surge?
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#6
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No comment on the base tape, but I like the Aero 4 with black. The bike just looks sleeker to me with that combo.
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#7
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LeSexyFishorse There was another thread last week about tubulars not seating due to the valve stem. Here is a link,
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-question.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-question.html
Have not yet had a chance to try it, running my fingers over the bump makes it seem very slight though. Fingers crossed it doesnt feel like anything under braking.
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The rim is dented close to but not at the valve.
I think one will feel it under braking.
biggest issue will be under duress and modulation will suffer and possible control loss.
possible to improve the braking surface.
I would not worry about the base tape to rim contact but… that valve is short for an aero rim.
too short in my assessment at least one of the tires are.
I think one will feel it under braking.
biggest issue will be under duress and modulation will suffer and possible control loss.
possible to improve the braking surface.
I would not worry about the base tape to rim contact but… that valve is short for an aero rim.
too short in my assessment at least one of the tires are.
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The rim is dented close to but not at the valve.
I think one will feel it under braking.
biggest issue will be under duress and modulation will suffer and possible control loss.
possible to improve the braking surface.
I would not worry about the base tape to rim contact but… that valve is short for an aero rim.
too short in my assessment at least one of the tires are.
I think one will feel it under braking.
biggest issue will be under duress and modulation will suffer and possible control loss.
possible to improve the braking surface.
I would not worry about the base tape to rim contact but… that valve is short for an aero rim.
too short in my assessment at least one of the tires are.
One thing I used to do with tubular rims back in my Chicago school days is to use a large vice-grip with a lot of leverage to very gently squeeze the rim at the protrusion due to the dent, and press it down just a bit (check your work every 10 seconds or so, to make sure you do not press the dent in! I never raced on such a fix (I never raced, lol!), but I never had one fail on a rider, either. That would eliminate the bump you would feel while braking.
If I recall, John Forester discussed such a cheap fix in his book, "Effective Cycling." I haven't seen anyone else say "it works!" but I think it does, if you are careful.
It's not perfect, but it should ride well if you are not an abusive rider. However tubulars being what they are, while they are hard to kill intentionally, accidents can happen.
Last edited by Road Fan; 01-16-24 at 03:02 PM.
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I agree about the valves, I would not put a tubie with such a short valve on that rim. It should suit an old-school box-rim, like a Fiamme, Nisi, or most Mavics from the '60s and '70s, not to mention most other tubular or sprint rims of the day.
One thing I used to do with tubular rims back in my Chicago school days is to use a large vice-grip with a lot of leverage to very gently squeeze the rim at the protrusion due to the dent, and press it down just a bit (check your work every 10 seconds or so, to make sure you do not press the dent in! I never raced on such a fix (I never raced, lol!), but I never had one fail on a rider, either. That would eliminate the bump you would feel while braking.
One thing I used to do with tubular rims back in my Chicago school days is to use a large vice-grip with a lot of leverage to very gently squeeze the rim at the protrusion due to the dent, and press it down just a bit (check your work every 10 seconds or so, to make sure you do not press the dent in! I never raced on such a fix (I never raced, lol!), but I never had one fail on a rider, either. That would eliminate the bump you would feel while braking.
I found one on Ebay at an exorbitant price: Bicycle Research Vintage Tire Seating Rim Ding Dent Saver Plier w/ THROW ADJUST | eBay
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Yes, that's what I used my vise-gjrips for!
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First, that’s a beautiful Zunow and I hope you enjoy the bike when it’s road-ready.
I agree with the concerns above re the rim dent. By the looks of it, I bet you’ll feel it during braking (a bit of an extra tug with each revolution). It could definitely affect your control on a tight, technical descent. I’ve smoothed out some rim blemishes with high-grit wet sandpaper but that may need more aggressive remediation. I’d opt for a bench vise with smooth wood blocks before a toothy vise grip, followed by sanding & polishing.
To your original question about the gaps around the valve…I wouldn’t be concerned about any safety issues. However, sometimes I’ve found that a tubular with such gaps creates an annoying sound if the gap causes any air bubbles or movement around the valve. This can sometimes be avoided by securely strapping the tire to the rim on the sides of the valve when gluing. I’ve got a Challenge tubular on one of my bikes that is making this sound and I plan to re-glue it in the near future.
I agree with the concerns above re the rim dent. By the looks of it, I bet you’ll feel it during braking (a bit of an extra tug with each revolution). It could definitely affect your control on a tight, technical descent. I’ve smoothed out some rim blemishes with high-grit wet sandpaper but that may need more aggressive remediation. I’d opt for a bench vise with smooth wood blocks before a toothy vise grip, followed by sanding & polishing.
To your original question about the gaps around the valve…I wouldn’t be concerned about any safety issues. However, sometimes I’ve found that a tubular with such gaps creates an annoying sound if the gap causes any air bubbles or movement around the valve. This can sometimes be avoided by securely strapping the tire to the rim on the sides of the valve when gluing. I’ve got a Challenge tubular on one of my bikes that is making this sound and I plan to re-glue it in the near future.