Benzon

Hi WheresWaldo, thanks for the response. Would there be a possibility to buy one from you?

WheresWaldo

Benzon Go to this link and take a look, I have Varia Adapters for both the SL and SLR Madone reflector mounts, https://www.shapeways.com/shops/revolutionaries

I don't sell anything directly, I just design and then put them on Shapeways site and they Sell, Print, then Ship it to you. I don't work for Shapeways, but get a small percentage of each sale of my designs.

WheresWaldo

I finally have mounts that are profile specific for Specialized SL and Pave 'D' seat posts. These are the posts used on both the Roubaix and Tarmac bicycles.
Here is the Varia mount, https://shpws.me/RM5t

doubravsky 

I’m looking for a garmin mount to attach to a spare battery. I’ve got a mount on my aero bars and on the battery. On the top I’d like another mount so my garmin could go above it. Here’s a pic of the bars:



This is the aero bars with the first mount


what I was hoping to do was attach a mount to the top. Tried super glue- popped off gravel riding. Tried JB weld... no luck. There’s (I think) not enough surface area on then mount for a secure bind. Here’s the mount and the battery:







is anyone aware of a mount like this I could order? What would be best I think is a solid flat surface on the bottom to make a solid attachment. Any thoughts?

ChrisAlbertson

So the problem is that the mont does not stick to the battery? Why not design a loop of plastic that fully goes around the battery. Make it in two parts with screws (1) a bottom that has the Garmin mount and then a cover that screws on and the battery. I think you have foud that glue is not the way to attach the battery to the plastic mount.

Even better but, more work is to disassemble the battery and drill and tap holes on the case. Then design the mount with matching holes and counterbores for the hex head screws.

Zip ties could work too. Make a try that holds the battery and has a Garmin mount and put some slots in the tray for zip ties.

Of these, the screws would look the best but zip ties are the easiest.

doubravsky 

Makes sense... thanks for the info! Looks like zip ties will work.....

ChrisAlbertson

Absolutely. You can do wel with a $200 budget. $1000 does not get you much better results but does but much better customer service and support.

These are popular and work very well https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Deskt.../dp/B07B3RN6NG

What you also need is to kinds of software
(1) 3D Modeling or "CAD" Software so you can design parts. Here is a learning curve but in a few weeks you are up to speed and
(2) slicer software to convert the above design to the kind of file a printer needs.

I use Autodesk's Fusion360 for design work. It is free for hobby users and even commercial use if you company is making less then $100K/year. Fusion360 is completely professional quality. You could use it to design things like car or bike parts, power tools or whatever. For a slicer, I like "Cura" and Cura works well with my Anet A6 printer.

Do not hold off on getting a printer because of the cost. The cheap ones work then if you like you can upgrade the printers. The parts are standardized about like bike parts are with a few different "standards but many companies make the parts and they mostly interchange. The A8 is a "Prussia clone" and mostly can use Prussia-like parts so there is no vendor lock-in

$200 is actually a good enough working budget and you can make real parts. You will need to learn to tweek and adjust and experiment with temperatures and feed rates and what is the best way to get the plastic to slick to the built plat. It is not like a laser printer that you just plug-in and it works. These is a longer learning curve with 3D printers. People pay that $1000 to shorten the curve I'd not do that. Best to beat you head on the wall and learn how stuff works.

If you have the mechanical skills to build a bike or overhaul a bottom bracket you can work with a $200 printer. But if you are the guy who has the LBS fix flat tires for you you need the $2000 printer

WheresWaldo

To add to what @ChrisAlbertson has already said there are a lot of printers in the $200 range that are very good machine. The Creality ENDER line is a well regarded printer as well as are the Anet's. The key though it patience, because a 3D printer is not a plug and play type of device. You will seem to forever tinker with it to bet the best prints possible out of it. Then there is the learning about CAD software and Slicing software and types of filament, etc.

Cad is generally classified by the knowledge set you already have and also whether it is free or comes with a real cost. I focus on the free ones, personally.

If you want a browser type of CAD (no need to install on your PC or Mac) there are products like Tinkercad (this does require you to have an online account with AutoDesk which is free). It is one of the most popular educational CAD tools and one of the best for beginners to use. Its interface is friendly and easy-to-use. Tinkercad is ideal for 3D printing because it saves objects as STL files and offers solid or box modeling parameters for 3D printing geometries. Another great feature is that it’s completely web-based, so no downloads are required.

Then another free CAD program is SketchUp. It is one of the most intuitive and powerful free CAD tools available on the market. The combination makes it ideal for beginners and intermediate users. The platform is also completely compatible with the needs of anyone looking to 3D print. SketchUp boasts a 3D Warehouse, which has lots of pre-made models, including ones made for 3D printing.

Fusion360 from Autodesk has already been mentioned and is also the same CAD software I use.

All of the above products are proprietary and their licensing models could change in the future.

Now a short list of the really free as in Open Source Software (OSS)

Probably the best of the OSS software is FreeCAD. FreeCAD is a free, open-source parametric CAD software modeler. It’s considered to be a great entry point for designers and mechanical engineers new to the modeling world. Parametric modeling means that one can modify a 3D model by browsing the model history and adjust or change individual elements (this is how Fusion360 modeling is based). The graphical user interface may not look as polished as its competitors, but FreeCAD is ideal for precision design, which is good for technical and replacement parts.

If you are mathematically inclined there is OpenSCAD. In OpenSCAD you are basically defining your models with mathematical equations rather than primitive shapes. It is more akin to programming than modeling. It is a script-only based modeller that uses its own description language; parts can be previewed, but it cannot be interactively selected or modified by mouse in the 3D view. An OpenSCAD script specifies geometric primitives (such as spheres, boxes, cylinders, etc.) and defines how they are modified and combined (for instance by intersection, difference, envelope combination and Minkowski sums) to render a 3D model. As such, the program does constructive solid geometry (CSG). OpenSCAD is available for Windows, Linux and OS X.

If you are a Right Brained person and into more artistic expression or organic shapes, there are a lot of people modeling with Blender. For many, Blender is the epitome of 3D computer graphics software, not necessarily because it’s the best but because it’s free, open-source, and has a plethora of features and use cases. Examples include 3D modeling, texturing, rigging, skinning, smoke simulation, particle simulation, animation, rendering, and video editing. Naturally, Blender is more than capable of producing models for 3D printing. That said, unless you’re keen on diving deep into the platform, you might want to consider a different tool. Blender is considered to be a difficult tool to master, and the many features can make it both intimidating and confusing.

Just some closing thought; If you get a 3D printer, visit the communities that support whatever printer it is, ask a lot of questions, watch YouTube videos about the printer. Learn about the different types of filaments (ABS, PLA, PET as examples). Pick a CAD software and stick with it. You can also go to file repositories such as Thingiverse to see, download and print thousands of models designed by other people like yourself. That is exactly how I started my journey.

One more thing, printing with these consumer grade printers for parts to fit on your bicycle can be challenging. so make sure you learn the ins and outs of your printer very well, 3D printing is the easy part, but getting a 3D print to be precisely the size you want is what is hard.

SethAZ 

Hi all. I just wanted to point out that for designs like this one shown above, this is going to be a very fragile part. This was printed on an FDM printer, so the layers are built up with the plane of each layer perpendicular to those vertical surfaces where the GoPro mount would actually slot in. Notice the 90-degree corners at the base of each of those slots? Those are heavy stress risers, and are where the focus of any sideways force acting on the mount will want to crack the mount off at an orientation of the layers that makes this most likely.

A good way to handle things like this is to put very generous chamfers or fillets anywhere two planar surfaces meet in your design. Since the mount part that's fixed to the camera doesn't extend to the bottom of the spaces in between the mount as shown above, there's going to be room to put generous fillets there. PLA can be very brittle, and with 90-degree joints between planes, and especially with one of those planes also being the plane each layer is built up on, designs like this look like they work fine until they get bumped sideways and just snap off. A good fillet can make that much harder to happen. Machining metal is much easier without fillets, but a 3D printer doesn't care one way or the other, so there's no reason not to include them in any design. A 3D-printed part designed for maximum toughness will be much more "organic-looking" than what one would want to machine out of metal, simply because printing these organically blended surfaces costs nothing in terms of printing complexity.

tomtomtom123

If you print it with the fins on the XY axis instead of what appears to be the Z axis in the photo, it will be slightly stronger, but still brittle with an FDM printer. If you printed it with SLS Nylon, it will be very strong, but also turning the fins to the XY axis will make it slightly stronger, as SLS nylon also has a slightly weaker Z-axis. And yes, fillets or chamfers on the corners will help.

SethAZ 

I hear ya. My 3D printing experience is only with FDM, no SLS yet. I'm thinking about getting one of the really cheap new liquid resin printers though, to broaden my horizons. I think the liquid resin prints would be too fragile for functional parts like this, but it would be useful for figurines and other decorative stuff. I've printed some nylon on my printer before, and I'd 100% agree that it would be a better choice for parts like these mounts than PLA is.

I'm all good for mounts on my bike right now, but I've been thinking about trying to whip up a design for a better mount for my Niteryder light and Garmin. With my saddlebag under my seat I'm limited on mounting stuff to the seatpost, but my Brooks saddle has loops for hanging stuff from the back of the seat that I might tap into.

Rotating the print as you suggested would definitely lessen the fragility due to layer delamination across the thin cross sections of those mount flanges, but also would come with its own annoyances, like requiring support for them, since the flanges would start above the print bed. I think with a more durable filament that delaminates less like PETG or Nylon and some generous fillets the current print orientation would be fine.

I'd never use PLA for anything designed to hold parts onto a bike. I consider it way too fragile for something like that. I use PLA for figurines and decorative stuff like that, but any functional part I print I use PETG on. I've printed some stuff in ASA, which is designed to be UV-resistant for use on stuff that'll be outdoors.

sweetnsourbkr

Hello,

Has there been a request made for this bike? I recently took delivery of one, but the universal mount for the Varia taillight doesn't work for the squared off seatpost on the Propel, it doesn't stay mounted in the proper position.

ChrisAlbertson

No. It is the other way around. I have some parts made in a Formlabs liquid resin printer and I can't break them with a hammer, They can be very seriously tough. The key is to use a non-rigid resin that comes out like solid nylon.

Formlab will send you a sample part printed on one f their printers for free if you ask. The resolution is very good too.

Go here can request samples https://formlabs.com/materials/

That said, for the person who wats just one part for their own bike, you can send the design file to a service and get the part for 1% of the cost of buying a printer. Buying a liquid resin printer that can use this "tough" material is only for the person who intends to make literally hundreds or thousands of parts. For most hobby users buy sub $200 FDM printer and it will do 90% of what you need the hire out the 10% you can't do yourself. FDM is good enough even for me who is right now designing a power steering gearbox for a robot car. I'll likely need to make a half dozen test-fit parts that get tossed in the trash an hour after they are printed. Only the last version needs to be strong enough to work.

SethAZ 

Ah, that's interesting to hear. Like I've said, I have zero first-hand experience with liquid resin printers, just FDM. An aquaintence of mine with the same FDM printer as me recently got a cheap liquid resin printer, and it has me thinking. He was using it mostly for figurines and such, and they looked absolutely amazing, and would be either impossible or else extremely tedious for me to do on my FDM printer. He did say that they were extremely fragile, but if there are different resin formulations available with different toughness values and whatnot I can easily see me being quite mistaken about this. If one can get liquid resin prints as tough as nylon then I can easily see that being a great solution for bike mounts and such.

I hear ya. If I get a liquid resin printer it'll be because I'm a 3D printing hobbyist* and just want one, not just so I can print a bike part. I agree with your advice re: non-hobbyists. It's definitely not worth the money for a 3D printer just to save money printing a couple of things one wants, assuming those things are otherwise fairly cheap, as bike mounts generally are. But for a 3D printing hobbyist this area is a gold mine of ideas for things to design and print.

I've already got everything mounted to my bike that needs mounting, so my need for 3D printed mounts was non-existent, but I just ordered a Cycliq Fly 12 CE combined front light/bike camera, and it won't work with the mount my current light is affixed to. I'm thinking I'll have to design a over/under combo mount for the Cycliq light/camera and my Garmin Edge 530, and print it in nylon. If the design works out well enough perhaps it would be a good candidate for me to send out this one time just to see what comes back from a print service in a tough liquid resin, as you mention.

*highly self-customized D-Bot printer that I built originally using parts I printed on my old cheap Chinese FDM printer, and have since upgraded with parts of my own design combined with some parts other D-Bot owners have contributed

WheresWaldo

Just note that not all resins work with all resin printers, for example FormLabs resins do not work with any of the cheap LCD printers as they cure at different wavelengths. So unless you want to spend the outrageous amount of $$$$ that FormLabs wants for any of their printers or resins you really need to restrict your knowledge gathering to 405nm-420nm resins. Look at companies like Monocure, MakerJuice and others that work with those LCD printers.

On another topic, a cyclist was kind enough to send me a cutoff of his Colnago C64 seat post, so I will have a bunch of C64 specific mounts soon.

BlueFinn

WheresWaldo

Hi, my first post, but congrats on the very nice designs. Was looking at the Wahoo mount adaptor for Canyon aerocockpit in Shapeways and see there are two types of plastics (Versatile -with different subtypes- and Multijet Fusion). What is your recommendation for a Roam? Any other suggestion for Roam + aerocockpit ? Thanks

WheresWaldo

BlueFinn Here is my understanding and research on the differences. Versatile Plastic uses, IIRC, EOS 3D printers. Shapeways has used these printers since the beginning, so they know how to tweak them. They have a certain layer height and can produce very good prints. The HP MultiJetFusion makes several improvements over the EOS printers. The HP uses a layer height that is approximately 1/3 smaller than the EOS, this aids in fusing the layers together as well as making angled planes smoother (smaller steps). The second improvement is that the HP uses a liquid binding agent, the result of this is that liquid fills in all spaces between the granules of nylon powder, not that there is much space anyway, but it is all gone with the binder. This prevent voids from forming in the melted plastic. Both the HP and the EOS printers use the same (basically ) nylon powder so no differences there. The results are that the HP not only looks better and feel better without additional polishing, but it is also stronger too. HP had posted a few YouTube videos showing just how strong their printed models are.

Just a note to everyone, I am moving away from Versatile Black, all items I design and Shapeways sells that are black will only come in MJF Black, other colors remain the same as before. HP is only available in Black and Gray.

SethAZ 

WheresWaldo thanks for the tips on what to pay attention to when looking into the liquid resin printers. It hadn't occurred to me that they'd use different wavelengths, but it makes sense, and now I know to pay attention to that.

I've been fine for mounts until now. I just received a Cycliq Fly12 CE front light/video camera unit, and I'm trying to decide how to mount it. I've had a really slick mounting solution for my Nyterider light and Garmin gps until now. They're both mounted to the same aluminum mount (light under, Garmin on top), which is fixed to the front stem clamp, not the handlebars. This Cycliq light uses a different mounting system that's like a 45-degree twist mount, unlike Garmin's 90-degree twist mount. I'll have to put my thinking cap on. I'd like to keep this mount as clean and slick as possible, though I'm resigned to the fact it won't be as nice as what I've had till now. I'll pull out my nylon filament and see what I can come up with here. I won't feel comfortable putting a nylon mount under the screws of my stem clamp like I did with the aluminum mount i have now, so it'll probably have to be something mounted to the handlebars. Sigh.

BlueFinn

Thanks a lot for the clear explanation. Given the part I am looking at, it is really the strength that I am concerned about as it has to hold a GPS, and won't be won't be that visible, keeping the aesthetics in the background. I can understand more on a visible part but this additional fineness will probably also be important in the little slots where the bolts need to be inserted. So will go for the HP printed part. Cheers!

bigalo

What material are you using to print?

jimmy.dean

Anyone willing to share their models for an outfront Wahoo bolt mount with integrated GoPro mount? Thanks in advance!

WheresWaldo

bigalo Who was this messaged directed to?
jimmy.dean Even though Thingiverse is kinda F******** up with the new site overhaul, did you look there? You can also search Yeggi.com to see if there are other models available, it is kind of a aggregate 3d model search site.

WheresWaldo

bigalo Who was this messaged directed to?
jimmy.dean Even though Thingiverse is kinda F******** up with the new site overhaul, did you look there? You can also search Yeggi.com to see if there are other models available, it is kind of a aggregate 3d model search site.

jimmy.dean

found a few. I’ll keep digging thanks.

jimmy.dean

Hi Silver Steve , any chance you can share your file?