Picture of Your Favorite Vintage Time Trial Bicycles and Why!
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Very unusual engravings!
The seatpost is C-Record like the rest, but they usually have an Allen bolt, not hex head.
The seatpost is C-Record like the rest, but they usually have an Allen bolt, not hex head.
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Goodness me, that is a beautiful bike.
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Boy these helmets sure looked cool. I love stuff like this from the time trial world....not just the bikes. If you have any pictures of this stuff or advertisements, posters, etc. or see any pictures of this stuff, do me a favor and post em here. Then we can all enjoy them and it will add to this archive of this classic era. And thanks ahead of time.
P.S. I can't believe that I survived 500 posts......whew!.....I am not really a social media person.
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That's Ray Dobbins, right? https://www.raydobbins.com/paletti/photos/photo1.html
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That's Ray Dobbins, right? Paletti01.jpg
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__________________
https://rowdml.tripod.com/panmass
https://rowdml.tripod.com/panmass
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Saddles are a very personal thing, but if you don't like Concor Supercorsas, quit bikes.
What other saddle says "I'm going to destroy you" when you're sitting on their wheel?
8 speed (C-)Record, Delta brakes...oh my.
What other saddle says "I'm going to destroy you" when you're sitting on their wheel?
8 speed (C-)Record, Delta brakes...oh my.
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No weight problem
Even the brown leather San Marco Rolls that I have that is a recent modern reproduction of the original is so good that when I ride it it feels like there is no saddle underneath me.....it is that comfortable no lie! It is the most comfortable saddle I have ever had. I have yet to ride the original one I have in white. Before that I had some Japanese leather saddle that was pretty old but still had a perfect shape. It felt like i was sitting on a rock.....it was horrible. And here is a bit of heresy....."An ultra light bike does not equate to riding ability or even speed. Give me a great rider with a slightly heavier bike over a mediocre rider on a fifteen thousand dollar carbon feather any day." Okay stone me now.......
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I like the phone cord on the Lobster Concor. Kids these days wouldn't know what that is.
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Even the brown leather San Marco Rolls that I have that is a recent modern reproduction of the original is so good that when I ride it it feels like there is no saddle underneath me.....it is that comfortable no lie! It is the most comfortable saddle I have ever had. I have yet to ride the original one I have in white. Before that I had some Japanese leather saddle that was pretty old but still had a perfect shape. It felt like i was sitting on a rock.....it was horrible. And here is a bit of heresy....."An ultra light bike does not equate to riding ability or even speed. Give me a great rider with a slightly heavier bike over a mediocre rider on a fifteen thousand dollar carbon feather any day." Okay stone me now.......
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1500 watts
The only advantage of a CF frame is if you can ride a bike at 25 mph for 5 hours without wheel sucking, a CF bike will place you half a mile ahead of your non carbon opponent.
The ridgity of a CF bike means more of your power transmits to where the rubber hits the road. Metal flexes and that flex draws efficiency and you are consquently slower than your stiffer CF opponent. Unfortunately you have to be strong and extremely fit to take advantage offered up by any CF bike - especially after 200 kms.
In the mountains any weight is an important factor but putting a pair of water bottles on a $10 K bike will turn it into a 1990s steel Eddy Merckx and will destroy any CF advantage.
Finally ,and most tellingly, in a a sprint finish - after 200 kms - the sprinters crank it up to an amazing 1500-2000 Watts. At that wattage a steel or Ally bike will flex like a bastard and your plastic rivals will leave you for dead over the final 100 meters - but these people are freaks and train 5 hours a day, six days a week.
The ridgity of a CF bike means more of your power transmits to where the rubber hits the road. Metal flexes and that flex draws efficiency and you are consquently slower than your stiffer CF opponent. Unfortunately you have to be strong and extremely fit to take advantage offered up by any CF bike - especially after 200 kms.
In the mountains any weight is an important factor but putting a pair of water bottles on a $10 K bike will turn it into a 1990s steel Eddy Merckx and will destroy any CF advantage.
Finally ,and most tellingly, in a a sprint finish - after 200 kms - the sprinters crank it up to an amazing 1500-2000 Watts. At that wattage a steel or Ally bike will flex like a bastard and your plastic rivals will leave you for dead over the final 100 meters - but these people are freaks and train 5 hours a day, six days a week.
Last edited by Johno59; 12-06-19 at 12:28 PM.
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Feel the need
The issue is that a 10K CF bike with 110 psi tires is like visiting the all night dentist if you have old bones. You don't need to feel a nat's cock on the road.
A CF bike is like an Indy 500 car. Amazing piece of machinery but if you don't cruise along at 25 mph and the road is not pothole free a 1970s all steel Colnago for 500 dollars makes more sense and is much more comfortable.
A CF bike is like an Indy 500 car. Amazing piece of machinery but if you don't cruise along at 25 mph and the road is not pothole free a 1970s all steel Colnago for 500 dollars makes more sense and is much more comfortable.
Last edited by Johno59; 12-07-19 at 03:19 AM.
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#245
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The issue is that a 10K CF bike with 110 psi tires is like visiting the all night dentist if you have old bones. You don't need to feel a nat's cock on the road.
A CF bike is like an Indy 500 car. Amazing piece of machinery but if you don't cruise along at 25 mph and the road is not pothole free a 1970s all steel Colnago for 500 dollars makes more sense and is much more comfortable.
A CF bike is like an Indy 500 car. Amazing piece of machinery but if you don't cruise along at 25 mph and the road is not pothole free a 1970s all steel Colnago for 500 dollars makes more sense and is much more comfortable.
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[QUOTE=VintageTTfan;21239946]Well, it helps that it's titanium (including bars and post) and only weighs 5kg. The tubes are rolled and welded from flat sheet, so he has more control over the gauge.
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The only advantage of a CF frame is if you can ride a bike at 25 mph for 5 hours without wheel sucking, a CF bike will place you half a mile ahead of your non carbon opponent.
The ridgity of a CF bike means more of your power transmits to where the rubber hits the road. Metal flexes and that flex draws efficiency and you are consquently slower than your stiffer CF opponent. Unfortunately you have to be strong and extremely fit to take advantage offered up by any CF bike - especially after 200 kms.
In the mountains any weight is an important factor but putting a pair of water bottles on a $10 K bike will turn it into a 1990s steel Eddy Merckx and will destroy any CF advantage.
Finally ,and most tellingly, in a a sprint finish - after 200 kms - the sprinters crank it up to an amazing 1500-2000 Watts. At that wattage a steel or Ally bike will flex like a bastard and your plastic rivals will leave you for dead over the final 100 meters - but these people are freaks and train 5 hours a day, six days a week.
The ridgity of a CF bike means more of your power transmits to where the rubber hits the road. Metal flexes and that flex draws efficiency and you are consquently slower than your stiffer CF opponent. Unfortunately you have to be strong and extremely fit to take advantage offered up by any CF bike - especially after 200 kms.
In the mountains any weight is an important factor but putting a pair of water bottles on a $10 K bike will turn it into a 1990s steel Eddy Merckx and will destroy any CF advantage.
Finally ,and most tellingly, in a a sprint finish - after 200 kms - the sprinters crank it up to an amazing 1500-2000 Watts. At that wattage a steel or Ally bike will flex like a bastard and your plastic rivals will leave you for dead over the final 100 meters - but these people are freaks and train 5 hours a day, six days a week.
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#250
Banned.
Ha ha ha.....good question! Are you referring to vintage carbon bikes like the ones in the above post? I will assume you are....unless you want to tell me otherwise.
The best answer I can give you is......they are much rarer than vintage steel. They are also usually much more expensive. I saw a very special one being sold for ten thousand dollars on Ebay and the guy changed his mind and took it down after one day. However, I can not assume you are not rich. If you are then I would always check Ebay regularly. On a highly specialized bike like these I would be very careful as a purchaser. Ebay and paypal or other forms of protection are necessary. Now if you ran into someone who had worked in the industry and had one or their family you might get lucky. You could check reputable specialty shops or dealers in Europe or Japan and ask around. It would be easy to get ripped off unless you had a trustworthy shop or dealer or auction house. To be honest I would think it would be a pain in the ass to buy one of these because the replacement parts would be hard to find and the mechanical tools required to work on them might be rare ...I do not know and it would be hard to know what was wrong with the bike to begin with. I would feel bad if I did not warn you of the trepidation involved in collecting such an item. Now vintage steel bikes is a bit different..........although goodness knows I have endured some agonies........
Johno59 since you worked in the industry that designed a bike like this ...can you chime in on the question of where to buy such a bike? Thanks.
The best answer I can give you is......they are much rarer than vintage steel. They are also usually much more expensive. I saw a very special one being sold for ten thousand dollars on Ebay and the guy changed his mind and took it down after one day. However, I can not assume you are not rich. If you are then I would always check Ebay regularly. On a highly specialized bike like these I would be very careful as a purchaser. Ebay and paypal or other forms of protection are necessary. Now if you ran into someone who had worked in the industry and had one or their family you might get lucky. You could check reputable specialty shops or dealers in Europe or Japan and ask around. It would be easy to get ripped off unless you had a trustworthy shop or dealer or auction house. To be honest I would think it would be a pain in the ass to buy one of these because the replacement parts would be hard to find and the mechanical tools required to work on them might be rare ...I do not know and it would be hard to know what was wrong with the bike to begin with. I would feel bad if I did not warn you of the trepidation involved in collecting such an item. Now vintage steel bikes is a bit different..........although goodness knows I have endured some agonies........
Johno59 since you worked in the industry that designed a bike like this ...can you chime in on the question of where to buy such a bike? Thanks.
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