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Raleigh (?) I bought today

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Old 03-01-10, 03:50 PM
  #1  
Ex Pres 
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Raleigh (?) I bought today

Pics will have to come later as I'm back at work; but what I know (and lots I don't)

Seller said he bought the top of the line Raleigh available in 1980, remembers it as a Professional. Around 1987(?), he had it refinished by CyclArt (the sig is on there) in the original color, and replaced most of the component group with DA 7402 (7 speed). He recalls that originally it came with 6s and a 126 OLD.

In it's current configuration, it has internal TT cable routing (original or added by CyclArt?), is in the Pro blue, ST from the top down has a 531 decal, the Carlton detail & a Worksop decal. No Professional decals anywhere. The brazing looks pretty good, proper cut-out lugs, and I even see some lug thinning on the TT. Do I have a Raleigh Pro?
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Old 03-01-10, 04:08 PM
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Niiiiice! I can't wait to see the pics!
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Old 03-01-10, 06:41 PM
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Serial number?
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Old 03-01-10, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Serial number?
and location
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Old 03-01-10, 08:38 PM
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Alright, have some pics from my low lumen fluorescent light basement. More here.
The last one has the serial number.





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Old 03-01-10, 09:20 PM
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Nicest I've seen - much better finished than any International, so no reason to think it isn't a Pro. Geez, that paint job is great - probably nicer than the original. You lucky dog! I'll let the keepers of the serial number databases chime in, but my furry mind seems to think that 1980 might be a bit early - weren't the 126mm backends a later development - like 1982 or later - may have been cold set before painting? Then again, I don't recall internal routing being on factory Pros ... it sure looks as if you have a one of the best, even if it was tweaked a bit later on. Seems as if there are fewer of these than top level Schwinn Paramounts... a major score. If I were younger, I'd be dying of envy!
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Old 03-01-10, 09:25 PM
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That looks just like my 78 Raleigh Pro. The serial number and BB cutouts back that up to, the W indicates it was built in Worksop. Nice bike!
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Old 03-01-10, 09:30 PM
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I'd say 1978 based on the serial number.
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Old 03-01-10, 09:36 PM
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Yup. '78.
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Old 03-01-10, 09:41 PM
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I would guess that the internal cable routing and pump peg were added by cycle art. I noticed that the bottom bracket cable routing is different than my 78 pro too.
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Old 03-01-10, 09:52 PM
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Now I've run into my first issues. The seatpost was greased and came out. The stem, not so much. Made about a tough 1/8 turn and is now stuck. The internal cable housing also will not budge. Stem needs some good leverage. Any hints on removing a stuck housing? It runs the entire length.
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Old 03-01-10, 10:55 PM
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Mkeller...I was wondering about that. I have a 78' and it doesn't have internal routing.

















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Old 03-01-10, 10:57 PM
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Great snag! Just a little envious you beat me to it.
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Old 03-01-10, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
Now I've run into my first issues. The seatpost was greased and came out. The stem, not so much. Made about a tough 1/8 turn and is now stuck. The internal cable housing also will not budge. Stem needs some good leverage. Any hints on removing a stuck housing? It runs the entire length.
Lots of guidance on stuck stems and seatposts here on the forum - if only the Search function worked properly.

Sounds like there's some movement, so that's a good sign. You did give the top of the stem a good rap to let the wedge drop loose I hope. If so, spray some WD-40 or liquid wrench, or similar in, and let is work for a couple hours and give it another try.

Stuck cables? Snipping at the front, and pulling from the back should make it come out the easiest, but without a cable running through, it'll be a P.I.T.A. to re-run new cables. Try some water with dish soap on the outside of the cable housing up front, and then pull the housing from the rear.
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Old 03-01-10, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake
Mkeller...I was wondering about that. I have a 78' and it doesn't have internal routing.
Yeah... my 78 has brazed on guides and shifter bosses that may have been added during a repaint. On the other hand, the only thing Raleigh ever did consistently was build with inconsistencies. I wonder if customers were able to make any special requests when they ordered these bikes?
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Old 03-02-10, 01:52 AM
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What's up with the seat binder bolt? It looks in the pic like someone tapped the lug and just installed a huge, threaded bolt?
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Old 03-02-10, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by poprad
What's up with the seat binder bolt? It looks in the pic like someone tapped the lug and just installed a huge, threaded bolt?
My Raleigh Pro is the same way. The bolt on mine is in bad shape and it I have not been able to find any replacements at local bike shops. I could probably check at the local hardware store but I am not sure.

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Old 03-02-10, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Stuck cables? Snipping at the front, and pulling from the back should make it come out the easiest, but without a cable running through, it'll be a P.I.T.A. to re-run new cables. Try some water with dish soap on the outside of the cable housing up front, and then pull the housing from the rear.
I'm not too worried once I get it out. The seller said that there is conduit inside the top tube that makes installation easy. Unfortunately, after sitting in his basement for 15+ years, now it's only adding additional friction. But I'll see if any soap will make it way down in there.
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Old 03-02-10, 08:42 AM
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Mkeller....I have an extra seat post binder that was in my Raleigh Pro when I first got it...I switched it out for one that looked a little neater (it's a bit long). You're welcome to it if it would help.

I've always wondered why my Raleigh doesn't fit a Campagnolo seat post binder.

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Old 03-02-10, 09:15 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
I'm not too worried once I get it out. The seller said that there is conduit inside the top tube that makes installation easy. Unfortunately, after sitting in his basement for 15+ years, now it's only adding additional friction. But I'll see if any soap will make it way down in there.
You don't want to pour it in. Just wet your fingers with it and rub on the exposed housing. If the housing has deteriorated inside a conduit, WD-40 would seem a better potion to inject into the space. If it's really gummed up inside, it might just take some force. Twisting, or twisting while pulling the housing might be less injurious to the conduit than simply pulling.
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