MRT2

As we start 2018, a proposal. Literally every week, we get new threads from newcomers on what bike, accessories to get. I propose a sticky that will help newbies get started on our sport/hobby/obsession.

So just to get the ball rolling, these are my recommendations.

1. Never buy from a department store. The bikes are not great quality to begin with, and you will need someone who can assemble it properly and adjust it to your needs, not to mention getting the fit correct. So, go to a few local bike shops (LBS) to get the lay of the land.

2. How much to budget for a bike?
A decent new entry level bike from a LBS should run you $400 to $500. You might find something quite decent used on Craigslist for quite a bit less depending on where you live, but you need to know what to look for. If you find a LBS that would sell you a fairly recent used bike with a store warranty for less, it is worth considering. Lots of well meaning people buy bikes and never use them, so if you can find one of those, why not get it? Also, fall should be a good time to buy a new bike, so look for a deal, if not on the bike itself, maybe try to negotiate for some discounted accessories or an extended maintenance plan with the store.

2B. If you can swing it, and you know cycling is your thing, consider spending a bit more than you think you should. A lot of times, the sweet spot for value is a step or two above entry level.

3. What to expect for your money?
Weight - There is an expression. With bikes, you can durable and cheap or durable and light, but not all three. The good news is, past a certain threshold, weight isn't all that much of an issue with recreational cyclists.

4. What kind of bike should you get?
That depends. There are lots of categories these days. Mountain bikes, Road Bikes, Touring Bikes, Adventure touring bikes, comfort hybrids, road hybrids, commuters. Mountain bikes generally have suspension forks and knobby tires. IMO, they are not great all rounders as today's mountain bikes are more purpose built for trails, single track, etc, and are not great choices for a person who rides on the road. Road bikes are light weight, feature drop bars and narrow tires. A great choice for fast club rides. Not great for off road. Gravel grinders are like road bikes, but with wider tires and might make a good all rounder. Touring bikes have drop bars, but are built more for long days of riding. They are also heavier than road racing bikes. A commuter is just some sort of bike with features commuters might like, for example, fenders, rack, lights, etc...Road hybrids are basically road bikes with flat bars and slightly wider tires. A good all around choice for people looking to get started with biking but who are intimidated by drop bars. Comfort hybrids are a little slower, with a more upright riding position. More comfortable for shorter trips, but because they are slower, more fatiguing for longer rides because of the upright riding position. (not as aerodynamic, and can't generate as much power from legs while sitting upright.)

4b. Just as I suggested earlier that beginners should consider spending a bit more than entry level, unless you have permanent limitations, you should consider going a level sportier than they think they might need. So if your instinct is for a comfort bike, consider going with a sportier road hybrid. If you think you want a road hybrid, consider an endurance road bike.

That said, don't get carried away. Don't buy a Ferrari when what you need is a Toyota. I know of at least a few people who go overboard and wind up buying carbon fiber racing bikes or triathlon bikes, when an aluminum or steel hybrid is all they really needed.

5. Frame Material - What you can expect for your money is a basic, probably aluminum bike. Other materials you might find are cro-moly steel, titanium, and carbon fiber, though the only material other than aluminum you realistically might get is steel. Remember what I said about light, durable and cheap. That applies to both Titanium and carbon fiber bikes. Very light, but very expensive.

6. Gears: Anywhere from 8 to 11 speeds, and 1 to 3 chainrings . While triples are out of fashion for road bikes, the triple on my bike has saved me from having to walk up a few hills over the years. On the other hand, for a lot of folks, a 1 x drivetrain might be all they need.

7. Components - Components are the bike parts attached to the frame, including cranks, shifters, derailleurs, bottom bracket, hubs, and brakes. The major component manufacturers for virtually all the LBS bikes available in the US are Shimano and SRAM. (there is an Italian component maker, Campagnolo, but that is very expensive and impractical. Many bike shops don't carry them. on the low end, there are cheap, chinese made brands, and you should avoid these.) They offer components in varying levels of quality, called groupsets (or gruppos if you fancy yourself a real hardcore European cyclist who shaves his legs. Shimano groupsets are as follows, from most basic at the bottom to the stuff the pros use at the top. Mountain groupsets: Altus, Acera, Alivio, Deore, SLX, XT, XTR. Shimano road groups are Claris, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace. SRAM offers mountain groupsets from X3, X4, etc to X9 and road sets from Apex, Rival, Force, and Red. Frankly, anything above Altus or X4 should be fine (better than anything you likely rode as a kid) and last you for years. One more point. Some manufacturers mix and match groupsets. Nothing wrong with this per se, but just because your new bike has an Alivio derailleur, doesn't mean the rest of the components are that level.


8. Saddle - This is personal. Don't assume a wide, squishy saddle is most comfortable. Quite often they arent. The good news is, if you find a bike you like but don't like the saddle, you can always ask the bike shop to replace it, or replace it yourself. If I can change a saddle, it must not be that hard.

9. Brands - Specialized, Trek, Cannondale and Giant are the big 4, but there are lots of other quality brands out there.

10 Accessories:
Must haves: Helmet, lock (if you plan on leaving it unattended, even for a few minutes), floor pump (unless you live right next to a gas station or bike shop), water bottle cages, water bottle, hexwrench multitool.

Probably: Rack, bungee cord, seatbag or trunkbag (to carry stuff in, and easier than wearing a backpack all the time), frame pump (if you get a flat), spare inner tube, tire levers. Some way of transporting your bike.

Optional: Gloves, protective eyewear , cycling shorts, cycling shoes/clipless pedals.

Finally, riding a bike should be fun. Don't be intimidated by bike shop people. This should be a fun process. If it isn't, go to another bike shop. Also, though you should ideally pick the right bike from the get go, a lot of bike stuff can be replaced. Focus on a bike that fits you. That is probably more important than whether the components are Shimano or SRAM, or whether the shifter is an 8 speed or 9 speed, or 10 speed or 11 speed..

rachel120

Adding onto #10.

Lights, rear and front. Spring for a decent amount of lumens for the front light. Easier to see and to be seen.

Spare batteries for the lights.

Pen gauge. Nice for double checking tire pressure. Plus a lot of people on a thread about small frame pumps said their pumps didn't have a gauge.

An actual wrench for removing the bolts on the tires...or tightening them when one loosens, messing up the tire alignment (fortunately more annoying than scary, since I was in traffic when it happened). Screwdriver with swappable bit tips for when a screw needs adjusting.

Spare oil, in case of a downpour while your bike was parked outside. Oil at home for routine chain upkeep.

Towel. Great for a drip cloth when you need it, great for your rump when you have to sit on the ground to adjust something, great to dry off the bike after rain or beat snow off the bike.

Old cell phone that can physically still function, and a camera if the old cell phone doesn't have picture taking ability. Backup for calling 911 and taking incident pictures if something happens to your primary phone.

Reflective stuff to make you more visible at night.

Adding a #11, learn basic bicycle mechanics. Both for knowing and adhering to a basic upkeep schedule and for troubleshooting and for minor repairs.

Adding a #12, learn state and local laws concerning bicycles. Not just rules of the road, my local government has laws about where and to what you can/cannot park and secure your bike.

Troul 

Nice faq although i dont mind repeating information for the most part. Sometimes the information will become dated & nothings worse than using information that may no longer apply. Revisiting some questions may trigger other relevant changes due from time & innovation or just see a trend that was not able to be identified upfront from lack of data at the initial time of topic.

PdalPowr

As a newbie I liked reading that.
It seemed unbiased and useful.

voyager1

Another newbie, thanks for doing this thread!

BobbyG

I was going to make a joke about this not being the norm, but then I realized, that while there are some heated and biased exchanges, for the most part bikeforums is unbiased and useful, and that is what I like most about it. What a difference from advertising driven bike-centric media!

jimmie65

Missing some things:
1. I see a lot of threads from newbies who don't have $500 to get started. I got started with a Giant Iguana off Craigslist for $50. Some advice on the major brands to look for and what to check when buying a used bike would help.
2. Fitting. This is a biggie. The wrong size bike will take all the fun out of riding.

mcours2006

Good list. Maybe mod can sticky this, and you can amend it as suggestions come in.

MRT2

I was just trying to get the ball rolling. I did touch on buying used, but it probably deserves its own entry. Additionally, used markets vary by geography. Everybody has a story about a lightly used bike they picked up for $50, including me. (i once bought a 1985 Schwinn LeTour Luxe with Columbus made frame whose owner took it out once a year for a charity ride he did with his Dad. When his Dad stopped riding, this guy decided to sell his bike. He was asking $100, but I negotiated him down to $65. All the bike needed was some new tires, tubes, chain, brake pads and bar tape. A real steal for about $150 for bike plus parts.)

That said, if you are in a hot market, you can't count on that. What I will say is, if you can get a clean used bike, meaning used but no significant rust, or dents and the major components, including cranks, bottom bracket, wheels, and headset work. A bad shifter or deraileur on an older bike might not be much of a problem, and expect to replace wear items like tires, tubes, brake pads and on road bikes, bar tape.

My personal rule is, if you can get a used bike for half the cost of a decent new bike (including repairs), then you should go for it. That means, a hybrid for $200 to $250 in ready to ride condition or a road bike for maybe $300 or $400. Mountain bikes are more problematic since used suspension forks might need to be repaired or replaced and in older models, that can be a problem, so beware of that.

RE: Fit, I also touched on this point. I agree, fit is really important, which is why I suggested newbies get to a bike shop for a fitting. My sense is, too many folks buy bikes that are too small, but maybe that is because I rode a bike that was too small for me for many years.

MRT2

Yes. Lights for sure if you ride at night.

My frame pump has a gauge. I suggest getting one of those.

If you have a bike without quick release, then you should have a tool for removing your wheel.

Spare oil? I disagree with this one. But one should have some chain oil at home and citrus degreaser for cleaning the drivetrain, which should be done regularly and especially after riding in wet weather.

I always put my cell phone in my jersey pocket. Have a bailout option should you have a major mechanical failure or get injured. A backup cell phone seems like overkill, but I guess there is nothing wrong with being prepared.

RE: Maintenance. That is an ongoing process. How much time you spend learning bike mechanics as opposed to riding a bike is an individual preference. At the very least, everybody needs to know how to change his or her own flat tire as this is the most common mechanical failure. Keeping your drivetrain clean and chain correctly lubed is the second most important thing. Handling minor adjustments to brakes and derailleurs is third. Keep your bike in good repair and you will be fine 99% of the time. If you don't master every aspect of bike repair, get to know your local bike mechanic, and be aware of where your local bike shops are. This just might save your day should you suffer a mechanical on a ride beyond your skills if you know where the nearest local shop is.

Local rules. Yes, but if you exercise some common sense, that will go a long way.

indyfabz

Not addressed:


1. Underwear under cycling shorts or not.


2. To wave or not to wave.

Scarbo

You forgot:

3. Which saddles to use in order to minimize aggravation of the taint.

jimmie65

I do think my $50 find was pure luck. The $200-250 you suggest is probably more likely but there are usually options for around $100 - for entry level hardtails as well as hybrids.
I was also lucky in that the Iguana didn't need a new bottom bracket, which seems to be the exception rather than the rule. I replace them on half the used bikes I buy and now just factor another $30-$50 into the cost. Perhaps a separate guide on what to look for mechanically in a used bike for newbies - spin the tires, squeeze the brakes, check the spokes, see if the pedals wobble, etc. I think most newbies look at seats, pedals, and tires - all relatively easy to change out or update while the other stuff can be a lot more expensive.

Fit: My Iguana was too small; I put on a ridiculously long seatpost and a handlebar riser before I finally traded out. Newbies need to know you can make a smaller bike fit, but it will never be ideal.

rachel120

Department store bikes are sometimes a necessity if a person needs a way around town but doesn't have the money for a car. I'm thinking that maybe #1 and #2 should be altered to say that the better option is $400 or so, but if finances don't allow here's what to look for.

Also maybe some online charts for proper fit if someone's budget won't allow for the LBS to do it. I saw the sign at my LBS for the cost of bike fitting. No way am I paying more to be professionally fitted than I paid for my bike.

SquidPuppet

This made me chuckle. Sorry.

rachel120

Yeah, my bad. The nuts on the tire, not the bolts.

SquidPuppet

That's only half the reason I chuckled.

The nuts aren't on the tire. In fact, they are nowhere near the tire. They are on the axle, which holds the wheel onto the bike.

Anyway, I knew what you meant.

rachel120

Lol, that really was stupid of me. In my defense I plead the stereotypical woman's mindset about mechanics.

SquidPuppet

Forgiven. And your plan to have a wrench available is 100% solid.



At least you didn't call it a hammer.

Scarbo

I like this thread for its Maimonidal overtones.

northtexasbiker

Fit is important but if you are talking about a budget entry bike you are going to get the "that looks about right" fitting from the sales associate.

MRT2

I would respectfully disagree. I would suggest staying away from department store bikes, especially if a person needs a bike for transportation. Maybe others would disagree, but I cannot think of any minimally acceptable department store options. If the budget is really tight, then look for a used bike. That is my advice.

As for the fitting, most bike shops will offer you a basic fitting when you buy a new bike from them as part of the overall service and can steer a customer towards the right sized bike.

MRT2

But $200 on a bike in clean condition and ready to ride may be a better value proposition than $100 spent on a bike that needs a lot of work.

jimmie65

Considering one of my rides is an Iron Horse (I've got a Mongoose Beast as well, but who in hell would depend on that for transportation?): for newbies, I agree. I replaced the brakes and bottom bracket already just to make the IH rideable.
So for newbies who have no desire to learn mechanics, a big box bike is a bad idea. It might be OK for someone who wants to learn to work on a bike, but then the newbie would need to figure out which bikes are upgrade-able and which ones aren't. (BTW, there's a forum for that at www.bigboxbikes.com. That's a better place for advice and info on these bikes that this forum.)

MRT2

Right. For a person who is going to rely on a bike, a department store bike is a false economy, IMO.