Visser Vainqueur potential project or scrap?
#51
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Bridge is a NERVEX item.
They offered scores of bridges which were double drilled like this.
Straight or curved, flanged or unflanged.
(without knowing its specific length cannot give a model number)
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#52
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First thing is not getting hung up on what's missing, and have a rough vision on one or two possible outcomes you'd like to see. What are you aiming for?
With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.
Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).
A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.
Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.
You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.
For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.
Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.
If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.
Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).
A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.
Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.
You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.
For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.
Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.
If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
#53
Senior Member
Thread Starter
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The TWF marque was created by two brothers, name of Woit, in Flanderland, 1946. The T and the F are their respective initials.
Firm produced headsets, bottom bracket assemblies and chainsets.
In Britain, Ron Kitching was a stockist in the 1950's and 1960's. Headsets shown in 1963 & 1970 editions of the Everything Cycling handbook.
Historique : WOIT Fonderie des Métaux non Ferreux - Herstal - Liège - Wallonie
Member Munny discusses the bottom bracket spindles here -
https://veloretrocourse.proboards.com...0688/quote/624
As a native Dutch speaker expect you will have no difficulty in searching for additional information in Flemish.
These three images courtesy of Munny illustrate one pattern of headset, different from yours -
Munny gives additional information on the company and their products in this BF posting -
https://www.bikeforums.net/20158383-post536.html
-----
The TWF marque was created by two brothers, name of Woit, in Flanderland, 1946. The T and the F are their respective initials.
Firm produced headsets, bottom bracket assemblies and chainsets.
In Britain, Ron Kitching was a stockist in the 1950's and 1960's. Headsets shown in 1963 & 1970 editions of the Everything Cycling handbook.
Historique : WOIT Fonderie des Métaux non Ferreux - Herstal - Liège - Wallonie
Member Munny discusses the bottom bracket spindles here -
https://veloretrocourse.proboards.com...0688/quote/624
As a native Dutch speaker expect you will have no difficulty in searching for additional information in Flemish.
These three images courtesy of Munny illustrate one pattern of headset, different from yours -
Munny gives additional information on the company and their products in this BF posting -
https://www.bikeforums.net/20158383-post536.html
-----
it does not have the teeth like the others I've seen.
#54
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First thing is not getting hung up on what's missing, and have a rough vision on one or two possible outcomes you'd like to see. What are you aiming for?
With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.
Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).
A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.
Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.
You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.
For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.
Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.
If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.
Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).
A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.
Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.
You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.
For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.
Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.
If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just ordered evaporust en evaporust gel for the frame. Watched some video's about the stuff and was sold. Can't wait to get started. There's lots off stuff here I want to try evaporust on.
#56
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Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
Likes For alexnagui:
#57
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Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
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WOW!
Terrific find - what a match.
MP highly dangerous for me.
When I visit can be lost for hours.
Sun can rise or set, as the case may be...
Thanks very much.
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#58
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Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
#59
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Contacted the seller if he knew anything about the frame. Only thing he knows is that his frame is never been used.
#62
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#63
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#64
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#65
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There is a bike paint shop called Anibel in Aarschot, Belgium. Haven't been able to match it to this particular logo yet, though.
#66
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I've send them an email asking about the bike. They have been in business for 40 years and the bike might be 70 years old?? So it's a long shot.
#67
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Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
#68
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This will never do.
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This will never do.
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#70
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Thread Starter
I started working on the steering wheel off the visser. There was one layer off electrical tape with the old canvas stuff underneath. After I got those off there was a sticky mess left over. I used brake cleaner to get that off but I'm no left with this stuff. What's the best way to remove that?
#72
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Just came across this picture in another thread, which may give a clue as to the frame's origin. Apparently this The Dura, a brand of mr A. Declercq of Roeselare, used the same decals. Declercq was a frame manufacturer, who owned quite a few brand names of his own, but I strongly suspect he also supplied unbranded frames to others, as many Belgian fame builders did. Those frames usually came fully finished, and just needed the new owners headbadge and name on the down tube. If this "AA" is indeed the painter's decal, than it might well have been on the frame before it was supplied to Visser.
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#73
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Just came across this picture in another thread, which may give a clue as to the frame's origin. Apparently this The Dura, a brand of mr A. Declercq of Roeselare, used the same decals. Declercq was a frame manufacturer, who owned quite a few brand names of his own, but I strongly suspect he also supplied unbranded frames to others, as many Belgian fame builders did. Those frames usually came fully finished, and just needed the new owners headbadge and name on the down tube. If this "AA" is indeed the painter's decal, than it might well have been on the frame before it was supplied to Visser.
I've been very busy with my new job and the restoration of my vw van. Hope to clear some time to continue the build. Already sourced some parts for it.
#74
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I am glad to have found it, as it had been bugging me for some time. I thought I'd seen it before, but couldn't remember where. It's always nice to know that I'm not delusional.
Looking forward to proceedings!
Looking forward to proceedings!
#75
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I started working on the steering wheel off the visser. There was one layer off electrical tape with the old canvas stuff underneath. After I got those off there was a sticky mess left over. I used brake cleaner to get that off but I'm no left with this stuff. What's the best way to remove that?
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