How to make my handle bars go higher?
05-20-20, 04:53 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
How to make my handle bars go higher?
Hi All
i feel like i need either a higher up handle bar or a stem. i used my friends kona dew plus and i think the stem was similar but the bars felt like they had a more steep higher bend in them which made them more comfy. i have a voodoo hoodoo 2015. any idears or suggestions im totally lost tbh. ive had as look at shorter steeper stems but im not sure if its stem or the handle bars i should be looking at?
i feel like i need either a higher up handle bar or a stem. i used my friends kona dew plus and i think the stem was similar but the bars felt like they had a more steep higher bend in them which made them more comfy. i have a voodoo hoodoo 2015. any idears or suggestions im totally lost tbh. ive had as look at shorter steeper stems but im not sure if its stem or the handle bars i should be looking at?
05-20-20, 05:23 PM
#2
Really Old Senior Member
They make relatively inexpensive "riser" bars in at least 1-4" increments. Maybe 6"?? At least that's what my lbs has on the shelf.
Keep in mind, the more rise you add, the easier it is to rotate in the pinch clamp. 2nd time it slips easier......
Keep in mind, the more rise you add, the easier it is to rotate in the pinch clamp. 2nd time it slips easier......
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 05-20-20 at 05:26 PM.
05-20-20, 05:36 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
its such a weird one tbh im tempted to 1st try and move my seat forward a bit as tbh i dont wanna spend cash on a new handle bar or stem if i can help it x thanks all sorry for a bit of a pointless post x
05-20-20, 05:56 PM
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I put 9 inch riser handlebars on mine now they are perfect. You will likely have to recable the brakes and shifters though.
05-20-20, 06:16 PM
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What problem are you trying to solve? Fit issues don’t always resolve themselves the way we think they will. I tried raising my bars, moving them closer, tilting them up, etc.
The solution was moving my seat BACK to better balance my body weight on the bike. With the seat back, I wasn’t sliding forwards and putting pressure on my hands. I also adjusted my saddle so that it was slightly “nose-up” to prevent me from sliding forward.
All of this was to prevent hand pain. If your pain is in your neck, back, wrists, etc., your solution may be different.
All of this was done at my bike fitter/physical therapist, and covered by insurance.
The solution was moving my seat BACK to better balance my body weight on the bike. With the seat back, I wasn’t sliding forwards and putting pressure on my hands. I also adjusted my saddle so that it was slightly “nose-up” to prevent me from sliding forward.
All of this was to prevent hand pain. If your pain is in your neck, back, wrists, etc., your solution may be different.
All of this was done at my bike fitter/physical therapist, and covered by insurance.
05-20-20, 06:23 PM
#7
Senior Member
Don't move your seat forward to decrease reach as it has a significant effect on your pedaling dynamics, although doing so relative to an ideal road bike position is somewhat common for mountain bikers because it helps keep your weight forward on steep climbs. Keep in mind that if you make your bars significantly higher, you may need longer cable housings, and more challengingly, hydraulic line.
That said, I'd probably first recommend a higher rise bar. Given the pricepoint/year of that bike it's almost certainly 31.8mm clamp, which is pretty much the standard, but you'll find some higher end products with 35mm clamps. One trend you'll also want to take into account is that much wider handlebars have become popular in performance oriented mountain biking, which has the effect of actually making you less upright if you use the same stem. Usually when people swap to one of these they also get a shorter stem, so keep that in mind. You can of course also get a shorter/higher rise stem. Probably the best call is both.
That said, I'd probably first recommend a higher rise bar. Given the pricepoint/year of that bike it's almost certainly 31.8mm clamp, which is pretty much the standard, but you'll find some higher end products with 35mm clamps. One trend you'll also want to take into account is that much wider handlebars have become popular in performance oriented mountain biking, which has the effect of actually making you less upright if you use the same stem. Usually when people swap to one of these they also get a shorter stem, so keep that in mind. You can of course also get a shorter/higher rise stem. Probably the best call is both.
05-20-20, 08:19 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Don't move your seat forward to decrease reach as it has a significant effect on your pedaling dynamics, although doing so relative to an ideal road bike position is somewhat common for mountain bikers because it helps keep your weight forward on steep climbs. Keep in mind that if you make your bars significantly higher, you may need longer cable housings, and more challengingly, hydraulic line.
That said, I'd probably first recommend a higher rise bar. Given the pricepoint/year of that bike it's almost certainly 31.8mm clamp, which is pretty much the standard, but you'll find some higher end products with 35mm clamps. One trend you'll also want to take into account is that much wider handlebars have become popular in performance oriented mountain biking, which has the effect of actually making you less upright if you use the same stem. Usually when people swap to one of these they also get a shorter stem, so keep that in mind. You can of course also get a shorter/higher rise stem. Probably the best call is both.
That said, I'd probably first recommend a higher rise bar. Given the pricepoint/year of that bike it's almost certainly 31.8mm clamp, which is pretty much the standard, but you'll find some higher end products with 35mm clamps. One trend you'll also want to take into account is that much wider handlebars have become popular in performance oriented mountain biking, which has the effect of actually making you less upright if you use the same stem. Usually when people swap to one of these they also get a shorter stem, so keep that in mind. You can of course also get a shorter/higher rise stem. Probably the best call is both.
I was definatlty debating the shorter steeper stem before the handlebars but I haven't a clue what to get tbh
My voodoo was the 2015 model
Last edited by Voltan; 05-20-20 at 08:23 PM.
05-20-20, 11:07 PM
#9
Senior Member
I don't know anything about how you look on your bike, what size you are, the current dimensions of what are currently on there, etc, and thus you should probably bring it to a real shop when you are able, but I can make some blind guesses. Are you planning to use this trail riding, or do you want more of an upright posture for cruising around? For the former, something like https://www.wiggle.com/nukeproof-neu...stCountryId=18 with something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-enduro-mtb-stem/ in 60mm would be a pretty conventional modern trail setup for cheap, though you might want to end up cutting the stem shorter.
For a really upright, more narrow, cruis-y setup, something like https://www.wiggle.com/bbb-bhs-25-hi...oversize-stem/ in 90mm with, I dunno, something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-trekking-high-rise-bar/? Or maybe something with a good bit or rise but less backsweep depending on your preference.
For a really upright, more narrow, cruis-y setup, something like https://www.wiggle.com/bbb-bhs-25-hi...oversize-stem/ in 90mm with, I dunno, something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-trekking-high-rise-bar/? Or maybe something with a good bit or rise but less backsweep depending on your preference.
05-21-20, 08:05 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
I don't know anything about how you look on your bike, what size you are, the current dimensions of what are currently on there, etc, and thus you should probably bring it to a real shop when you are able, but I can make some blind guesses. Are you planning to use this trail riding, or do you want more of an upright posture for cruising around? For the former, something like https://www.wiggle.com/nukeproof-neu...stCountryId=18 with something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-enduro-mtb-stem/ in 60mm would be a pretty conventional modern trail setup for cheap, though you might want to end up cutting the stem shorter.
For a really upright, more narrow, cruis-y setup, something like https://www.wiggle.com/bbb-bhs-25-hi...oversize-stem/ in 90mm with, I dunno, something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-trekking-high-rise-bar/? Or maybe something with a good bit or rise but less backsweep depending on your preference.
For a really upright, more narrow, cruis-y setup, something like https://www.wiggle.com/bbb-bhs-25-hi...oversize-stem/ in 90mm with, I dunno, something like https://www.wiggle.com/brand-x-trekking-high-rise-bar/? Or maybe something with a good bit or rise but less backsweep depending on your preference.
I probs will go to get a fit at me local bike shop. In the mean time Ur suggestions are cool. With the stem is the 90mm how long it is? As I saw they do a shorter 70. I'm 6.4 , 240 pounds and I want just to cruise on roads mainly.
Last edited by Voltan; 05-21-20 at 08:11 AM.
05-21-20, 09:46 AM
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The "90" mm is the length presumably from the middle of where it mounts to the fork to the middle of the bar clamp. Kalloy (as well as many others) has stems that are 35 degrees and you can use simple trigonometry (sine and cosine) to figure the height and reach of the stem. New bars area less expensive fix, but the ones with rise greater than three inches will (probably) be steel and heavy.
05-21-20, 03:56 PM
#12
Senior Member
Note that a higher rise stem will have less reach for the same length because it's angled upwards.
