Old tires
06-10-19, 08:00 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
2 Posts
Old tires
I've picked up a few older road bikes, mostly '80s touring bikes. I always wonder whether it's ok to ride on 30+ year old tires. These are 90-100 psi road tires, and sometimes they feel dry and a little rough on the sidewall but don't show any cracks. Yes I know it would be best to spring for new tires, but I'm not on an unlimited budget. They've got tubes in them, after all...
So what do you guys do in cases like this?
So what do you guys do in cases like this?
06-10-19, 08:13 PM
#2
Cycleway town
I think the biggest risk is of the tyre wall splitting under the pressure load, causing the tube to burst out. Long-term exposure to sunlight is the most punishing age-related effect on a tyre structure, especially with gumwall tyres. Or where the rubber has cracked and allowed UV and moisture to reach the webbing that way.
06-10-19, 08:13 PM
#3
I'm the anecdote.
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: S.E. Texas
Posts: 1,822
Bikes: '12 Schwinn, '13 Norco
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,176 Times
in
795 Posts
Some cracks in rubber don't show until you flex the tire, either by hand or by riding.
Rubber that has turned hard and crumbly as plastic is useless and dangerous in my opinion.
I don't know what tire size you need, but $15 to $20 per tire is possible on eBay or other online stores. Tubes will bring that cost up a bit more.
Edit to add: Look up tires and tubes combos for sale.
Rubber that has turned hard and crumbly as plastic is useless and dangerous in my opinion.
I don't know what tire size you need, but $15 to $20 per tire is possible on eBay or other online stores. Tubes will bring that cost up a bit more.
Edit to add: Look up tires and tubes combos for sale.
Last edited by FiftySix; 06-10-19 at 08:21 PM.
06-10-19, 08:14 PM
#4
Full Member
They may start cracking when they flex from being ridden. I wouldn't plan any long rides on them.
06-11-19, 11:49 AM
#5
Señor Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,066
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 649 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
215 Posts
Generally speaking, unless the casing is damaged and bulging, the tire is ok to ride. A damaged casing is one of the easiest things to detect - you can actually feel a wiggle in your saddle or handlebars.
However, nothing lasts forever. If I were you, I would pick the two best tires from the fleet of old touring bikes and use those. You can only ride one bike at a time so you could pick one as the 'rider' and the rest as 'parts' bikes.
However, nothing lasts forever. If I were you, I would pick the two best tires from the fleet of old touring bikes and use those. You can only ride one bike at a time so you could pick one as the 'rider' and the rest as 'parts' bikes.
06-11-19, 12:30 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 727
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
142 Posts
I find that any bike tire (and especially car tires since they are outside 24/7) will harden with age and make tracking less sure. Most are safe for many years, even with rubber cracks, but lose grip, especially in cooler weather and damp...
I rode a set of 27" hand made real Clement clinchers for years and after a 10 year non-riding hiatus in the basement, they were fine for another year, when I got back to riding, but rapidly began to develop fraying at the bead. I only did it because I could not find decent 27" tires that worked with non-hook bead rims. All the LBS has heavy Kendas that popped off at 70+ pounds. So I put the Clements back on. I finally found a set of Bontragers that were nice and would stay on the rim. Bought a new bike soon after that was 700C.
I rode a set of 27" hand made real Clement clinchers for years and after a 10 year non-riding hiatus in the basement, they were fine for another year, when I got back to riding, but rapidly began to develop fraying at the bead. I only did it because I could not find decent 27" tires that worked with non-hook bead rims. All the LBS has heavy Kendas that popped off at 70+ pounds. So I put the Clements back on. I finally found a set of Bontragers that were nice and would stay on the rim. Bought a new bike soon after that was 700C.
06-11-19, 07:00 PM
#7
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
If they hold air overnight, and arent showing any splits or bulges, I'll ride an old set of tires.
I usually do on a new bike 'find' while I figure out what condition the rest of the bike is in before i start taking stuff apart to rebuild / replace.
However, I won't ride them any farther than i'm willing to walk home, and any faster than i'm willing to crash.
I usually do on a new bike 'find' while I figure out what condition the rest of the bike is in before i start taking stuff apart to rebuild / replace.
However, I won't ride them any farther than i'm willing to walk home, and any faster than i'm willing to crash.
Likes For Ironfish653:
06-11-19, 07:33 PM
#8
52psi
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 4,014
Bikes: Schwinn Volare ('78); Raleigh Competition GS ('79)
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 801 Times
in
390 Posts
Well said.
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
06-12-19, 08:38 AM
#10
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
Having gone over the bar once, resulting in me spitting out pieces of 13 cracked teeth through a broken jaw that had a gouge down to the chin bone (they had to scrape road grit out of the bone) I'd say: pay a little money and get new rubber. New tires ride nicer, too.
06-12-19, 08:48 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,212
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,485 Times
in
7,316 Posts
How do you know the tires are as old as the bikes?
Likes For WaveyGravey:
06-12-19, 02:44 PM
#13
Banned
Depends on the Rubber compounds... Hard Blackwall on my Suomi Nokian Studded tires
seems to store well those many months
between cold 0C days since the 90s when I got them..
seems to store well those many months
between cold 0C days since the 90s when I got them..
06-12-19, 07:00 PM
#14
Senior Member
How much would a trip to the ER cost? $50 for a set of new tires is cheap insurance. For goodness sake don't exceed 10mph and, don't do downhills.
06-13-19, 03:04 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863
Bikes: too many of all kinds
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
335 Posts
The industry standard for rubber is 6 years.
Yeah, you can go longer, but its the most important single component on your bike, and tires are not expensive.
IMHO, 6 years is very conservative, but 30 years is dangerous - unless your willing to crash and hobble home.
Yeah, you can go longer, but its the most important single component on your bike, and tires are not expensive.
IMHO, 6 years is very conservative, but 30 years is dangerous - unless your willing to crash and hobble home.
06-13-19, 03:55 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
If they hold air overnight, and arent showing any splits or bulges, I'll ride an old set of tires.
I usually do on a new bike 'find' while I figure out what condition the rest of the bike is in before i start taking stuff apart to rebuild / replace.
However, I won't ride them any farther than i'm willing to walk home, and any faster than i'm willing to crash.
I usually do on a new bike 'find' while I figure out what condition the rest of the bike is in before i start taking stuff apart to rebuild / replace.
However, I won't ride them any farther than i'm willing to walk home, and any faster than i'm willing to crash.
06-13-19, 08:15 PM
#17
Junior Member
Put a new tire on the front and leave the rear alone if you are that short on cash that you can't buy two tires. A flat or blowout on the front is much worse than a flat or blowout on the rear tire.
