Premium Valve Cores
#26
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Usually every time I drive. Sometimes a couple of times between uses too.
Of course, I just got my Blazer back on the road for the first time in 4 1/2 years.
Tires, Tubes, whatever, will leak down slowly.
The thicker the tire/tube, and with the more volume the slower it will leak down.
The thinner the tire/tube, and the less volume, the faster it will leak down.
On my bike, I'll monitor the pressure regularly, but will only pump up once a month or so. But, I also let the pressure vary considerably, probably somewhere in the range of about 50 to 110 lbs.
Of course, I just got my Blazer back on the road for the first time in 4 1/2 years.
Tires, Tubes, whatever, will leak down slowly.
The thicker the tire/tube, and with the more volume the slower it will leak down.
The thinner the tire/tube, and the less volume, the faster it will leak down.
On my bike, I'll monitor the pressure regularly, but will only pump up once a month or so. But, I also let the pressure vary considerably, probably somewhere in the range of about 50 to 110 lbs.
#27
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Ben
#28
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I don't think that most of that is true. Schrader valves are found lots of places besides relatively low pressure automobile tires. Trucks, for instance commonly use around 100psi tire pressure and they use Schrader valves. How about your home air conditioner? Lots higher pressure and they are expected to not leak at all.
I do like the Presta on bikes, but there really isn't a good reason.
There may be other Presta/Schrader adapters, but it probably isn't necessary as long as there aren't any burrs in the hole.
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The thicker the tire/tube, and with the more volume the slower it will leak down.
The thinner the tire/tube, and the less volume, the faster it will leak down.
The thinner the tire/tube, and the less volume, the faster it will leak down.
#30
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"It seem to be an issue with any tube I've used to date (different brands, etc)."
Somehow I don't think that they are all defective. One or two here and there, maybe. All of them? Nah.
Somehow I don't think that they are all defective. One or two here and there, maybe. All of them? Nah.
#31
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Oh, another thing. Sealant can make a mess out of just about anything.
Not saying it is bad, but just one has to be prepared. Remove and clean the core and stem?
Not saying it is bad, but just one has to be prepared. Remove and clean the core and stem?
#32
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Actually, I take it back. You thread a needle so I don't think my use of that word was incorrect at all.
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#33
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I have had valve cores leak, but it's very rare. Usually you can see a valve core fail the water dunk test by the bubbles coming out.
Of course, one could buy a set of the metal valve caps with the seal inside the cap if your really concerned about cores leaking.
Permeability of tubes was mentioned as well. I can say that in my limited experience with thick thorn resistant bicycle tubes that they hold air much longer than the standard thin tubes.
Of course, one could buy a set of the metal valve caps with the seal inside the cap if your really concerned about cores leaking.
Permeability of tubes was mentioned as well. I can say that in my limited experience with thick thorn resistant bicycle tubes that they hold air much longer than the standard thin tubes.
Last edited by FiftySix; 06-18-19 at 05:57 PM. Reason: fixin' incorrectness
#34
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I have had different brands of tubes lose air at different rates. My wife's road bike (presta valved tubes) loses air quicker in the front tire than the rear. Neither tube has been patched, neither has any sealant, tires and rims are free of anything which would cause a leak. Isn't major enough to replace the tube which loses air more quickly, but it's noticeable after the bike might sit for a while. The only thing I can figure is that the tubes are dif.brands and lose air at dif.rates (don't remember brand names). Maybe you could try a different brand of tube?
#35
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Usually, a leaking Shrader valve is an indication it just needs to be tightened into the stem a bit. A core removal tool can be used to do it.
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#36
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Then you just pop it on and air it up. No levers, no screwing,
#37
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R G -
I would not consider uttering "incorrect" and thereby contradict you, but might we not be able to agree that certain less erudite folk,* find "threading" a somewhat unusual usage of the term in the example above ... For is one not actually using thread when one "threads a needle"? Thus perhaps one might use in this way, the phrase "chucking a valve", to describe the action of enclosing a valve stem with a chuck, prior to pumping?
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#38
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I would imagine that a gentleman going by the name of "Retro Grouch" is probably familiar with a Silca type pump head.
Regarding ease of inflation...I think that was his point, if one has a hose that is connected to an on demand compressor, like at a gas station, Schrader heads/valves are quicker, potentially, as they provide instant inflation just by making proper contact, whereas the Silca type as pictured would require an additional mechanism to prevent the air from escaping when not inflating the tube. ( Think NASCAR pit stop for reference.)
Last edited by Last ride 76; 06-19-19 at 06:21 PM.
#40
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My wheels have schrader valves and I debated a long time using grommets to go presta. Then I stumbled on the Continentals with the metal stem. I’ve been very pleased with the results holding pressure. Maybe try a couple. They are not for 28 as the label appears to indicate when you look at it. I used it with 32s, and when I tried to put them into a 28 the tube was too large and had folds so I stuck with the 32. May have been that specific tire, but it was a pretty good size fold for the 28.