LED flashlight as headlight questions
#26
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I use the Magicshine (from geoman) as primary, and a fenix L2D Q5 as a backup. Sounds like you are heading in that direction.
I don't think you will go wrong with that setup. And the twofish lockblock seems to work fine. I use Li cells and a Lacrosse charger with no problems. I had some problems with my original MS battery (died after a few months) but geoman sent me a new one (second generation which I hear is better), no questions asked. I don't think DX would offer this type of customer service.
I don't think you will go wrong with that setup. And the twofish lockblock seems to work fine. I use Li cells and a Lacrosse charger with no problems. I had some problems with my original MS battery (died after a few months) but geoman sent me a new one (second generation which I hear is better), no questions asked. I don't think DX would offer this type of customer service.
#27
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If you want to go full retro, I used one of the back in the 80's for nighttime century, the Wonder light
Think of a very dim aa maglite, I'm sure the output was around 10-20 lumens.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_304652
Think of a very dim aa maglite, I'm sure the output was around 10-20 lumens.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_304652
I still have a Wonder leg light. That wasn't a bad concept.
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Both my wife and I are using a pair of Coast LED Lenser lights. Model 7438. Two Fenix mounts on each set of handlebars.
These will focus from a narrow beam to flood by twisting the lens cap. They use 3 AAA batteries with a 120 hour run time. So far we have about 50 hours on our first set of batteries and no reduction in light output. They show 105 Lumens.
They list for 57.95 while I bought mine at Lowes for $43.56 each.
They are far better than the AAA LED Night Rider lights that ran me $50 to $60 each.
So far no problems. Just push the button on the back of the light and it comes on.
These Coast lights are shown as "Tactical" lights.
These will focus from a narrow beam to flood by twisting the lens cap. They use 3 AAA batteries with a 120 hour run time. So far we have about 50 hours on our first set of batteries and no reduction in light output. They show 105 Lumens.
They list for 57.95 while I bought mine at Lowes for $43.56 each.
They are far better than the AAA LED Night Rider lights that ran me $50 to $60 each.
So far no problems. Just push the button on the back of the light and it comes on.
These Coast lights are shown as "Tactical" lights.
#29
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What does "tactical" mean in this context? Sounds like a weapon.
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#30
Fax Transport Specialist
there are some features/configurations that are more "tactical." The crenelated bezel (for jabbing people), thumb press button on the rear of the housing for use when also holding a handgun, ability to half-press the button to turn it on and off quickly, and having the high power mode be the first "on" setting (to blind people).
#31
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OK, I see. Thank you.
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#32
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I just wanted to post a follow up. I ended with the MagicShine 900 from Geoman. I finally got out with it today and I have to say it is a great light. Since I am on roads with traffic for part of my ride, I also have Planet Bike 1/2 watt head and tail lights that flash.
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I have the Romisen RCN3 and a Zefal Doodad and have it mounted on my helmet. Using NiMH batteries, I can get about 90 min of lighting off a single charge. It is more than sufficient for me to ride the unlit MUP at 20-24mph at night.
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I've been running a Quark AA2 with a Towfish Lockblock for about a year. In dusk/dawn conditions I'll usually put it in strobe mode and have had many unsolicited comments from runners, cyclists and drivers that it's extremely visible, even from 1/2 mile or more away. When it's dark it goes on full bright mode, which is fine if the ride is up to ~2 hours in the dark.
The only downside is that the batteries rattle a little bit. Not loudly, but I like a silent bike.
The only downside is that the batteries rattle a little bit. Not loudly, but I like a silent bike.
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I've been running a Quark AA2 with a Towfish Lockblock for about a year. In dusk/dawn conditions I'll usually put it in strobe mode and have had many unsolicited comments from runners, cyclists and drivers that it's extremely visible, even from 1/2 mile or more away. When it's dark it goes on full bright mode, which is fine if the ride is up to ~2 hours in the dark.
The only downside is that the batteries rattle a little bit. Not loudly, but I like a silent bike.
The only downside is that the batteries rattle a little bit. Not loudly, but I like a silent bike.
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#39
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I run a nice cree flashlight from ACE hardware, cost, about $30. has 4 different modes. I use the twofish lockblocks on 2 different bikes, they work perfectly. A radbot 1000 or something on the back. I've got 2000 miles on each, never had a problem. My system works well enough in pitch dark- bright enough to ride by, good rear protection. About $100 out the door. It's easy (and fun) to overthink it- lots of options out there, but really, it's not that hard. Now I'll be shouted at by light enthusiasts.
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Just FYI...if you're seeing bike lights / torches advertised with Q5's and P7's...it's kinda "old news". The Q5 is especially outdated.
A really killer setup is the XP-G R5, XP-E R2, or the newest XM-L emitters.
I machined some pretty gnarly lights with the XP-G and XP-E's.
The XP-G works best with Regina reflectors. I was building some "double barrel" designs that were seriously P7 killers. They were so tiny and lightweight...yet you were getting a super efficient beam with the Regina's.
A second setup with XP-G's that worked well was a 20mm 3-up board with Carclo Narrow optics. It was a pretty good all'rounder, but not quite as punchy as a dual Regina setup.
The 20mm 3-up XP-"E" setup was an incredibly fun board to play with. It had alot more throw with a narrower beam than the G's.
The newest emitter to keep your eyes peeled for is the XM-L. I've moved to a new city, so I haven't built anything since last year. I don't have experience with the XM-L, but the spec's look pretty awesome. We're talking a true 1400 lumens out of a light the size of your thumb. Not the 600'ish that the Magicshine actually puts out. (though it's advertized at 900)
Just food for thought if you're window shopping.
A really killer setup is the XP-G R5, XP-E R2, or the newest XM-L emitters.
I machined some pretty gnarly lights with the XP-G and XP-E's.
The XP-G works best with Regina reflectors. I was building some "double barrel" designs that were seriously P7 killers. They were so tiny and lightweight...yet you were getting a super efficient beam with the Regina's.
A second setup with XP-G's that worked well was a 20mm 3-up board with Carclo Narrow optics. It was a pretty good all'rounder, but not quite as punchy as a dual Regina setup.
The 20mm 3-up XP-"E" setup was an incredibly fun board to play with. It had alot more throw with a narrower beam than the G's.
The newest emitter to keep your eyes peeled for is the XM-L. I've moved to a new city, so I haven't built anything since last year. I don't have experience with the XM-L, but the spec's look pretty awesome. We're talking a true 1400 lumens out of a light the size of your thumb. Not the 600'ish that the Magicshine actually puts out. (though it's advertized at 900)
Just food for thought if you're window shopping.
#41
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I agree with the advice to go with a P7 or Cree using 18650 batteries (or a Li-Ion battery pack). Have you looked at Dinotte and Magicshine from Geoman? Those seem to be the most recommended packages if you don't want to DIY.
Also, if you are riding an hour each way, think about battery life. With a flashlight-type light running on high (even an 18650), you will be recharging essentially every ride (2x per day). I don't know if that would be a hassle for you or not. I like having H-M-L settings (and a strobe) so that I can run on M when I don't need a lot of light (it significantly extends battery life).
I use a P7 flashlight from DX and it puts out a ton of light, but I am going to upgrade to start regularly commuting for convenience of charging (with a separate battery pack).
Let us know what you decide.
Also, if you are riding an hour each way, think about battery life. With a flashlight-type light running on high (even an 18650), you will be recharging essentially every ride (2x per day). I don't know if that would be a hassle for you or not. I like having H-M-L settings (and a strobe) so that I can run on M when I don't need a lot of light (it significantly extends battery life).
I use a P7 flashlight from DX and it puts out a ton of light, but I am going to upgrade to start regularly commuting for convenience of charging (with a separate battery pack).
Let us know what you decide.
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#43
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I have used a Fenix L2D for about 4 years and it's been a great light. Two years ago, I got a brighter Magicshine light for my handlebars and moved the Fenix to my helmet. However, during the summer -- when I'm using lights mainly for visibility -- I continue to use the Fenix on my handlebars. I mount my Fenix with a Two-Fish, and it works on both my handlebars and helmet. I must have better night vision than most because I run my Fenix on the second-highest (100 lumen) setting, which allows me to use the light all week on a single battery charge.
I buy whatever rechargeable NiMH I can buy for a good price when I need them. I have used Sanyo, Duracell, Energizer, Maha and Rayovac batteries. They all seem to hold a charge about the same except for the Rayovacs, which are low discharge but also lower rating. Personally I would recommended buying the highest charge rating you can get rather than the low-discharge Enloop style batteries. Enloops are great if you store batteries for a while before using them, but for commuting you are probably regularly charging batteries all the time so that's not an issue -- unless you commute irregularly.
BTW, I also have a Light & Motion Stella 300, which is my main commuting light now. I bought it due to the Magicshine battery recall (which is taking forever) and it has been a great replacement. Although not quite as bright as the MS, it has a much better battery and beam pattern. It is brighter than the Fenix and almost as light weight (not counting the battery pack), but at least twice as expensive.
I buy whatever rechargeable NiMH I can buy for a good price when I need them. I have used Sanyo, Duracell, Energizer, Maha and Rayovac batteries. They all seem to hold a charge about the same except for the Rayovacs, which are low discharge but also lower rating. Personally I would recommended buying the highest charge rating you can get rather than the low-discharge Enloop style batteries. Enloops are great if you store batteries for a while before using them, but for commuting you are probably regularly charging batteries all the time so that's not an issue -- unless you commute irregularly.
BTW, I also have a Light & Motion Stella 300, which is my main commuting light now. I bought it due to the Magicshine battery recall (which is taking forever) and it has been a great replacement. Although not quite as bright as the MS, it has a much better battery and beam pattern. It is brighter than the Fenix and almost as light weight (not counting the battery pack), but at least twice as expensive.
#44
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go on ebay and look up 7w luxeon flashlight. Organize by price and buy it now. You should be able to buy this LED flashlight with two CR123 batteries and charger for under $30. I have had mine for two years now and it is wonderful. You can also buy a flashlight clamp for $1.50.
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