7 Day - 545 Miles, advice needed on bike
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7 Day - 545 Miles, advice needed on bike
Hello,
Brand new to the forum, and wanted to pose a general question that I'm sure you get all the time. I'd like advice on a bike decision I'm considering....
I am participating u. The AIDS/Lifecycle this June, it's a 7 day, 545 mile bike ride from San Francisco to Los Angeles.
I currently ride a Schwinn Paramount Waterford, oohhh I can't recall the year, 84 I believe. Love this bike for around town, but I'm having reservations about it for 7 days and 545 miles.
I'm considering a Fuji SL-1-Comp.
Is this a wise choice? The Fuji seems like a quality bike for a reasonable amount, I can't really spend 3,000 on a bike.
I really appreciate any feedback you can provide.
Brand new to the forum, and wanted to pose a general question that I'm sure you get all the time. I'd like advice on a bike decision I'm considering....
I am participating u. The AIDS/Lifecycle this June, it's a 7 day, 545 mile bike ride from San Francisco to Los Angeles.
I currently ride a Schwinn Paramount Waterford, oohhh I can't recall the year, 84 I believe. Love this bike for around town, but I'm having reservations about it for 7 days and 545 miles.
I'm considering a Fuji SL-1-Comp.
Is this a wise choice? The Fuji seems like a quality bike for a reasonable amount, I can't really spend 3,000 on a bike.
I really appreciate any feedback you can provide.
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I think I would ride the Paramount. Actually, seven days on a Waterford Paramount sounds exactly like my idea of a great time.
If you want to buy another bike, I'm sure the Fuji will work just fine, as will any decent road bike in a good state of repair.
If you want to buy another bike, I'm sure the Fuji will work just fine, as will any decent road bike in a good state of repair.
#3
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Your Paramount would be an excellent bike for a ride like that. Long rides, particularly where you're not concerned about having the absolute lightest bike (i.e. not racing) are the place where classic steel still shines.
If various componets or wheels are needing repaired/ replaced, I'd get those fixed/ replaced, and ride the Paramount.
Besides, the bike will be a nice conversation piece.
If various componets or wheels are needing repaired/ replaced, I'd get those fixed/ replaced, and ride the Paramount.
Besides, the bike will be a nice conversation piece.
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Really? You think it would be more comfortable than a newer Fuji sl1? The paramount is an older bike, steel, so it's heavier than most, though I'm not sure of how steel rides compared to carbon...
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Then again if you want a new bike go for it. The SL-1 looks like nice bike...make sure you get a fitting and ride it a bit before heading off on a 500+ mile tour.
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#6
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I also have a modern, high end carbon fiber frame. From purely a comfort point of view I would take the Paramount over my Giant TCR Team Advanced, and definitely over most any entry level to middle range CF frame.
You can certainly get CF frames that are nice and comfortable, but it's going to be hard to get a better all day ride than a good steel frame. One of the main things that still draw a number of people to steel frames is the lively, resiliant feel, which makes for a comfortable ride.
And as for the weight, 2-3lbs or so, is not going to make a difference. I raced my Paramount, and won races with it, even after the advent of carbon frames.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
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Ride what you're used to. 3 months may not be enough to get really dialed in on a new frame especially if the fit is radically different from what you're on now.
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Take your existing bike on a couple nice, long rides first. We'll average 80 miles/day during ALC, so if you can get up to 60-80 and are still comfortable I wouldn't change anything.
I've been seeing a lot of different types of bicycles for this ride during the local training rides. Commuters, road, mountain, you name it there will be someone riding it.
I've been seeing a lot of different types of bicycles for this ride during the local training rides. Commuters, road, mountain, you name it there will be someone riding it.
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I would update the components on the Paramount and ride that.
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Sounds like you might be looking for a good reason to get a new bike. In that case, YES, the Fuji is a great bike. No, you probably don't NEED it to do the ride, but if you are trying to justify getting a new bike then this sounds like a perfect reason. And if you do decide to get a new bike, get it well in advance of the ride and put some serious miles on it. It might take a couple of weeks to get it dialed in. What kind of condition is your Schwinn in?
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My Schwinn is actually in great shape, I picked it up off craigslist last year, and it's in near mint condition. It's an 85 Schwinn Paramount waterford. The reason I have been debating picking up a "newer" bike is comfort and ease driven, first I want this ride to be as "easy" as possible(I understand the ride will not be easy, lol), and worry that a heavier bike will require more energy on long stretches of flat, and then on any hills(there will be many).
#12
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My Schwinn is actually in great shape, I picked it up off craigslist last year, and it's in near mint condition. It's an 85 Schwinn Paramount waterford. The reason I have been debating picking up a "newer" bike is comfort and ease driven, first I want this ride to be as "easy" as possible(I understand the ride will not be easy, lol), and worry that a heavier bike will require more energy on long stretches of flat, and then on any hills(there will be many).
But the more posts you make the more it sounds as though you want a new bike....get the Fuji but get it early so that you can log miles on it and get the fit dialed in well before the ride.
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Paramount.
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I would also second and third the advice of getting in some long rides asap. 60-80 miles is doable by many here, but consecutively for a week is not something that you do without intentional build-up.
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When I first bought my bike, within the first 300 miles, I needed quite a few adjustments. So...if you get the Fuji, put some miles on it to get the adjustments squeaked out.
#17
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Question is, how long do you have to prepare for this ride?
Since it has been a while between new bike purchases, you may have forgotten about the shake down period, as well as the comfort issues that come with tuning a new bike to your fit. If you are under a month, ride the Paramount.
Since it has been a while between new bike purchases, you may have forgotten about the shake down period, as well as the comfort issues that come with tuning a new bike to your fit. If you are under a month, ride the Paramount.
#18
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Who are you riding with? Depending on who your riding partners are the Schwinn could add many style points.
Who is the support crew? Some support people out there have never seen single-pivot brakes or friction down-tube shifters.
Who is the support crew? Some support people out there have never seen single-pivot brakes or friction down-tube shifters.
#19
Steel80's
What are your reservations about the Paramount for longer distance? If there's something that doesn't work quite right, absolutely, get it fixed. Better, learn to work on the bike yourself if you haven't already. Older bikes are easier to work on, I think. Get the fit just right- saddle position, stem height & length, bars. Slightly bigger tires (like 700x25) will give more cushion. Sturdy wheels will help, too. The one thing I can think of that you might upgrade or need a new bike for is lower gearing for big hills.
#20
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My Schwinn is actually in great shape, I picked it up off craigslist last year, and it's in near mint condition. It's an 85 Schwinn Paramount waterford. The reason I have been debating picking up a "newer" bike is comfort and ease driven, first I want this ride to be as "easy" as possible(I understand the ride will not be easy, lol), and worry that a heavier bike will require more energy on long stretches of flat, and then on any hills(there will be many).
Too, the gearing on my SR is slightly less favorable to me than the gearing on my Moto. My lowest gear on my SR is about 40 gear-inches, IIRC, whereas my lowest gear on my Moto is around 30 gear-inches. Does it make a difference? Not on short local rides, but if I was riding more than 50 miles I would definitely prefer the Moto. Especially if I was riding consecutive days for considerable distance. Your ride will average around 80 miles per day.
Dunno if that helps, but that's my $0.02
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Umm.. Is this tour supported or do you have to carry your own junk? The SL1 has no room for racks or anything, but is a fantastic bike and it's a great reason to buy a new bike.
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#23
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I did an almost identical ride last year (530 miles / 7 days). Did it on a $1,300 Cannondale, also as a very new cyclist, and had NO problems. I appreciated the lightness (compared with older steel bikes), and greatly appreciated the smooth, precise reliability of a modern groupset.
Many will tell you (some already have) that the weight is only important when going up hills. I beg to differ. Propelling extra weight along a flat road won't take an excessive amount of extra effort, but it will require some extra effort ... and of course, there are the hills... Personally, I'd rather drag 17 lbs across 550 miles that the 25+ pounds your current bike probably weighs.
That said - the most important thing is your conditioning. Based on my recent experience, I would urge you to make sure you have at least 1,000 miles under your belt before starting the ride. I'd also suggest that if you push yourself reasonably hard, across those 1,000 miles, you'll find it pretty easy to enjoy the ride.
You should include at least one century in your buildup. Centuries will help you build up the neck muscles, harden your butt, provide an opportunity to perfect your hydration and food intake, and give you an indication of how you'll fare in longer distances.
Many will tell you (some already have) that the weight is only important when going up hills. I beg to differ. Propelling extra weight along a flat road won't take an excessive amount of extra effort, but it will require some extra effort ... and of course, there are the hills... Personally, I'd rather drag 17 lbs across 550 miles that the 25+ pounds your current bike probably weighs.
That said - the most important thing is your conditioning. Based on my recent experience, I would urge you to make sure you have at least 1,000 miles under your belt before starting the ride. I'd also suggest that if you push yourself reasonably hard, across those 1,000 miles, you'll find it pretty easy to enjoy the ride.
You should include at least one century in your buildup. Centuries will help you build up the neck muscles, harden your butt, provide an opportunity to perfect your hydration and food intake, and give you an indication of how you'll fare in longer distances.
Last edited by DGlenday; 03-15-12 at 03:08 PM.
#24
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I did an almost identical ride last year (530 miles / 7 days). Did it on a $1,300 Cannondale, also as a very new cyclist, and had NO problems. I appreciated the lightness (compared with older steel bikes), and greatly appreciated the smooth, precise reliability of a modern groupset.
Many will tell you (some already have) that the weight is only important when going up hills. I beg to differ. Propelling extra weight along a flat road won't take an excessive amount of extra effort, but it will require some extra effort ... and of course, there are the hills... Personally, I'd rather drag 17 lbs across 550 miles that the 25+ pounds your current bike probably weighs.
That said - the most important thing is your conditioning. Based on my recent experience, I would urge you to make sure you have at least 1,000 miles under your belt before starting the ride. I'd also suggest that if you push yourself reasonably hard, across those 1,000 miles, you'll find it pretty easy to enjoy the ride.
You should include at least one century in your buildup. Centuries will help you build up the neck muscles, harden your butt, provide an opportunity to perfect your hydration and food intake, and give you an indication of how you'll fare in longer distances.
Many will tell you (some already have) that the weight is only important when going up hills. I beg to differ. Propelling extra weight along a flat road won't take an excessive amount of extra effort, but it will require some extra effort ... and of course, there are the hills... Personally, I'd rather drag 17 lbs across 550 miles that the 25+ pounds your current bike probably weighs.
That said - the most important thing is your conditioning. Based on my recent experience, I would urge you to make sure you have at least 1,000 miles under your belt before starting the ride. I'd also suggest that if you push yourself reasonably hard, across those 1,000 miles, you'll find it pretty easy to enjoy the ride.
You should include at least one century in your buildup. Centuries will help you build up the neck muscles, harden your butt, provide an opportunity to perfect your hydration and food intake, and give you an indication of how you'll fare in longer distances.
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