Disc brakes are now the default on road bikes and no one cares
#126
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Ah. Yeah, that hasn't been much of an issue for me, either. A few clicks of the barrel adjuster, that's about it. I also didn't swap wheels that frequently - the 28/30s that I normally ride on pavement are fine for shorter jaunts on gravel/dirt. I really only swap out when it's going to be a ride with significant gravel, which is more of an event ride, for me/in my area. Now that I have the R3, I'll just be using different bikes.
#127
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If going to a one-size fits-all wheelset, I assume fair to say that swapping tires is typically more of a hassle than RD adjusting, especially if at least one of the tire sets is running tubeless (with sealant)?
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#129
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You got me, but I would assume so.
One thing to keep in mind is that the experiences of someone like Noodle Soup and psimet, who see and service a ton of bikes, are going to be different than what a typical rider will experience. I wouldn't spend too much time working out how to address worst-case scenarios when the likelihood is that any problems encountered will minor and easily addressed.
One thing to keep in mind is that the experiences of someone like Noodle Soup and psimet, who see and service a ton of bikes, are going to be different than what a typical rider will experience. I wouldn't spend too much time working out how to address worst-case scenarios when the likelihood is that any problems encountered will minor and easily addressed.
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Shims are available, but the smallest I've seen are 1mm thick(a huge difference).
I occasionally see cassette alignment issues, but I wouldn't call it common. More often than not, it works exactly like it's supposed to. Disc alignment issues are more common, but are a simple fix.
One thing to keep in mind is that the experiences of someone like Noodle Soup and psimet, who see and service a ton of bikes, are going to be different than what a typical rider will experience. I wouldn't spend too much time working out how to address worst-case scenarios when the likelihood is that any problems encountered will minor and easily addressed.
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Shims are available, but the smallest I've seen are 1mm thick(a huge difference).
I occasionally see cassette alignment issues, but I wouldn't call it common. More often than not, it works exactly like it's supposed to. Disc alignment issues are more common, but are a simple fix.
I occasionally see cassette alignment issues, but I wouldn't call it common. More often than not, it works exactly like it's supposed to. Disc alignment issues are more common, but are a simple fix.
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
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Good to hear.. FYI, one of the first google hits that came back for me on cassette/hub shims was this Zipp product at .25mm, but unsure would work with any other brand of hub.
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
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I'm surprised you couldn't find a local dealer that serviced CK hubs. The shops I've worked at that were CK dealers, all had the tools/experience needed to service their hubs. CK recommends 6-12 month service intervals, but those seem to err on the side of caution.
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Good to hear.. FYI, one of the first google hits that came back for me on cassette/hub shims was this Zipp product at .25mm, but unsure would work with any other brand of hub.
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
https://www.amazon.com/0-25mm-Zipp-F.../dp/B0063HMR6O
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#138
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See, this is what I'm saying - we're looking at two "issues," and you've been informed that one issue is common, but easy to fix, and that the other is not that common... but you're still wasting CPU cycles on finding solutions that you probably won't need. It's a bike, not a rocket ship. You don't need to overthink it - buy the bike you want, buy the wheels you want. Most likely, it'll be a-okay.
#139
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Both of my wheels are centerlock and I can swap them back and forth. Rotors line up. Cassette lines up too. One set has DT 240s, the other has HED hubs. Previous bike had a set of Stan's wheels and they didn't swap very well. Probably not related, and just a matter of luck, but the system that works is Di2, the one that gave me problems was SRAM. Both hydraulic.
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Probably means you don't even have to try them on first. But you need to post a photo of the new goodies.
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One solution might be to go down the road I'm going . . . . keep my old bike with my comfy rim brakes and let the new-fangled bikes with disc brakes sit on the merchant shelves. Will this "boycott" ever work, No, because so many folks just gotta have the latest and greatest bicycle cycle, and they're willing to put up with the maintenance complications. Call me a curmudgeon or whatever, but I enjoy riding my bikes the old fashioned way and I have no complaints.
And in answer to Seattle Forest's "no one cares" re: new bikes. I don't. The disc brakes bikes will stay on the shop floor. Any new bike I get will be metal and custom. Speccing rim brakes means I can ask for a sweeter riding, more comfortable and more flexible fork. (And easier to build, Maybe cheaper. Or in exchange, I could get a free braze-on I really want.)
Now all I have to do is forget how dangerous my next descent is gong to be. Thankfully I was oblivious last fall when I came off the Crater Lake rim. Followed the tandem out of the Blue Mountains of OR two years ago. Disc brakes would have been good when I came down Mt Washington 45 years ago and blew a very hot tire but it wasn't a big deal. Tubular so I just changed it out and repaired it when I got home 170 miles later.
I'll grant that disc brakes stop better. But more powert? I have refitted my dual-pivot braked bikes to V-brake levers so when I slam on the brakes (for the car in front or mountain descent curve I could not see in advance), nothing exciting happens, I just slow down, very quickly.
Ben
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Triples will make a comeback. Mark my words.
"Modern electronic shifting has eliminated all of the drawbacks of using triple cranks. This enables us to tighten up the cassette in the rear - dropping weight and reducing jumps in gearing and reducing friction from overly long chains. blah blah blah bs bs bs buy new stuff."
"Modern electronic shifting has eliminated all of the drawbacks of using triple cranks. This enables us to tighten up the cassette in the rear - dropping weight and reducing jumps in gearing and reducing friction from overly long chains. blah blah blah bs bs bs buy new stuff."
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One post is not a problem, but we're not talking about one post, we're talking about a pattern - I seem to recall a string of what-ifs in other threads, too, many of them similar long-shots.
Discs and tubeless are no longer some wild frontier - problems may arise but, when you have the stuff in-hand, solutions often present themselves just by virtue of trying and that experience is the best teacher. If that doesn't work, many here, myself included, are happy to help, but I feel like generosity of time and experience is something that should be respected. Responding to, "probably not a problem that you'll run in to," with, "yeah, but what about about this or that?" gets a bit tedious.
Discs and tubeless are no longer some wild frontier - problems may arise but, when you have the stuff in-hand, solutions often present themselves just by virtue of trying and that experience is the best teacher. If that doesn't work, many here, myself included, are happy to help, but I feel like generosity of time and experience is something that should be respected. Responding to, "probably not a problem that you'll run in to," with, "yeah, but what about about this or that?" gets a bit tedious.
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Your sin wasn't so much that you wasted CPU cycles, but that you wasted CPU cycles on something that another person wasn't interested in.
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OP was right. No one cares.
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That kinda sucks.
I'm surprised you couldn't find a local dealer that serviced CK hubs. The shops I've worked at that were CK dealers, all had the tools/experience needed to service their hubs. CK recommends 6-12 month service intervals, but those seem to err on the side of caution.
I'm surprised you couldn't find a local dealer that serviced CK hubs. The shops I've worked at that were CK dealers, all had the tools/experience needed to service their hubs. CK recommends 6-12 month service intervals, but those seem to err on the side of caution.
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One post is not a problem, but we're not talking about one post, we're talking about a pattern - I seem to recall a string of what-ifs in other threads, too, many of them similar long-shots.
Discs and tubeless are no longer some wild frontier - problems may arise but, when you have the stuff in-hand, solutions often present themselves just by virtue of trying and that experience is the best teacher. If that doesn't work, many here, myself included, are happy to help, but I feel like generosity of time and experience is something that should be respected. Responding to, "probably not a problem that you'll run in to," with, "yeah, but what about about this or that?" gets a bit tedious.
Discs and tubeless are no longer some wild frontier - problems may arise but, when you have the stuff in-hand, solutions often present themselves just by virtue of trying and that experience is the best teacher. If that doesn't work, many here, myself included, are happy to help, but I feel like generosity of time and experience is something that should be respected. Responding to, "probably not a problem that you'll run in to," with, "yeah, but what about about this or that?" gets a bit tedious.
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My regular road ride includes a 30 minute descent
I don't feel any need for disc brakes, and don't have a need for the latest and greatest, and don't need a new bike. But if I were shopping for a new road bike I'd probably get discs because it's the new standard and I don't care.
I don't feel any need for disc brakes, and don't have a need for the latest and greatest, and don't need a new bike. But if I were shopping for a new road bike I'd probably get discs because it's the new standard and I don't care.