Spokes: double-butted vs. thick elbow (single butted)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
Spokes: double-butted vs. thick elbow (single butted)
Which one makes a more durable wheel? Sapim Race (double-butted 2.0mm, 1.8mm, 2.0mm) or Sapim Strong (single butted, 2.3mm elbow, 2.0mm rest)?
I've read enough from the the experts here to believe triple butted spokes makes the most durable wheel, but that's not available from the builder I'm looking at.
Sapim suggests it's Strong (single butted) spoke is their strongest ("The Strong is developed for specific and heavy usage such as tandem, e-bikes or heavy load use.")
Does this make sense to the wheel building experts here?
I've read enough from the the experts here to believe triple butted spokes makes the most durable wheel, but that's not available from the builder I'm looking at.
Sapim suggests it's Strong (single butted) spoke is their strongest ("The Strong is developed for specific and heavy usage such as tandem, e-bikes or heavy load use.")
Does this make sense to the wheel building experts here?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,064
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 122 Times
in
90 Posts
When I was building new wheels a few months ago I also considered the race and strong. I bought one of each and stuck them through the Shimano hub flange, and the strong needed some force to bend the spokes around the flange for the ones with heads in the inside of the flange. So I went with the race.
The thicker strong would stretch less than the thinner race, but I have very short spokes on my 20" wheels, so the amount of stretch with the short race on 20" would be less than a long strong on 26".
I assume that the double butted would reduce wear at the nipple compared to single butted. But the thicker elbow on the strong might be appropriate in some cases for heavy loads.
The thicker strong would stretch less than the thinner race, but I have very short spokes on my 20" wheels, so the amount of stretch with the short race on 20" would be less than a long strong on 26".
I assume that the double butted would reduce wear at the nipple compared to single butted. But the thicker elbow on the strong might be appropriate in some cases for heavy loads.
Likes For tomtomtom123:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,892
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4792 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times
in
2,548 Posts
What rims are you using? I find that I get more rim damage from potholes and the like with heavier spokes; ie the middle 80%. The Race is 1.8, the Strong 2.0. 2.0 is 23% larger, ie 23% stiffer and with 81% of the stretch, so that much harder on rims with hard hits. For lightish rims like Mavi Open Pros, I avoid 2.0s like the plague. (Well, I often pick up new wheels cheap laced with factory 2.0 and ride them until I'm in wheel-building mode, then they get ripped out and 2-1.6-2s laced in (2-1.8-2 on the right rear).
Ben
Ben
Likes For 79pmooney:
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
Looking at strong rims, Velocity Cliffhanger, Velocity Aileron, and WTB KOM Tough. I would get 36 hole versions of the Velocities but the WTB only comes in 32 hole. If I go with Cliffhangers (675 grams per rim!) I think it will be plenty strong with any spoke, but if I go with the WTB I think I need to maximize the strength I can get with 32 spokes.
I'm 240 lbs and am hard on wheels, so I want something rugged that I don't have to worry about.
I'm 240 lbs and am hard on wheels, so I want something rugged that I don't have to worry about.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,892
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4792 Post(s)
Liked 3,918 Times
in
2,548 Posts
Looking at strong rims, Velocity Cliffhanger, Velocity Aileron, and WTB KOM Tough. I would get 36 hole versions of the Velocities but the WTB only comes in 32 hole. If I go with Cliffhangers (675 grams per rim!) I think it will be plenty strong with any spoke, but if I go with the WTB I think I need to maximize the strength I can get with 32 spokes.
I'm 240 lbs and am hard on wheels, so I want something rugged that I don't have to worry about.
I'm 240 lbs and am hard on wheels, so I want something rugged that I don't have to worry about.
Ben
Likes For 79pmooney: