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Going from compact double to standard double crank... what cassette?

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Going from compact double to standard double crank... what cassette?

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Old 09-24-11, 07:57 PM
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gobikego
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Going from compact double to standard double crank... what cassette?

If I was to go from a 50/34 compact double with a 11-28 cassette, to a 53/39 crank what cassette would you recommend?
I don't think I ever used the 34/28 but I would like to have a little help if I have to climb a huge hill and I'm dead tired. Also I don't think I would need the 11 with the 53 tooth?

I was thinking a 12-25 or 12-27? I'm also thinking of using a Shimano Ultegra cassette and Ultegra chain or KMC chain with my SRAM drivetrain... I heard it's a good combo.

Last edited by gobikego; 09-24-11 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 09-24-11, 08:00 PM
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If you don't already know the gear ratios you're after, I've got to ask . . . Why are you making the change in crankset? On the surface of it, if you don't need the 53/11, it seems you're only getting downside and no real benefit.
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Old 09-24-11, 08:04 PM
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lylepwns
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Imo give the 53-39 a shot and then get a feel for what you need.
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Old 09-24-11, 08:09 PM
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39-53 with a 12/25 for hill and 11/23 for the flats is what I run. But this is me and might not work for you.
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Old 09-24-11, 08:15 PM
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gobikego
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I mean I have spun out with the 50/11 but only descending down and I can get close on flats if I really want to
This is just throwing around ideas for a build I'm planning, but I've never used a standard double, only compacts

Last edited by gobikego; 09-24-11 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 09-24-11, 10:11 PM
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If you're getting close to spinning out a 50/11 on the flats, you either don't know how to spin, or you should be getting picked up by a pro team by now (and you still don't know how to spin).

Nevertheless, play around with the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator to see which gear combinations on a standard are equal to the ones you have on your compact. If you're not using the 34/28, see if you're using the 34/25 (equal to a 39/28) or the 34/23 (equal to a 39/26). Even if you don't need a higher top end, you can get a closer gear ratio by eliminating the cogs you don't use.
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Old 09-24-11, 10:16 PM
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Cmon now. Spinning out a 50/11 on the flats is only about 45 mph, give or take. Everybody on BF can do that on their 75 mile daily rides.
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Old 09-24-11, 10:21 PM
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urbanknight
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Originally Posted by Right Said Fred
Cmon now. Spinning out a 50/11 on the flats is only about 45 mph, give or take. Everybody on BF can do that on their 75 mile daily rides.
lol I almost thought you were serious until I got to the 75 mile daily ride part.

The OP should ask these guys what speed it takes to spin out a 50/11
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVbwngNoHm0
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Old 09-24-11, 10:24 PM
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11-23
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Old 09-24-11, 10:54 PM
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gobikego
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It's not really a good thing due to my horrible riding style, ridiculous sprint for half a minute making my way up to the 50/11 and then just use that momentum to coast/not pedal for a while. I'm not the most consistent rider...
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Old 09-24-11, 11:07 PM
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I <3 Robots
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Just switch cassettes...
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Old 09-24-11, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by I <3 Robots
Just switch cassettes...
Exactly. If you have a ride where you suspect you need a bailout, then put your 11-28 back on. Much easier than switching cranks.
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Old 09-25-11, 06:18 AM
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HTFU and get an 11/21
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Old 09-25-11, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by gobikego
If I was to go from a 50/34 compact double with a 11-28 cassette, to a 53/39 crank what cassette would you recommend?
I don't think I ever used the 34/28 but I would like to have a little help if I have to climb a huge hill and I'm dead tired. Also I don't think I would need the 11 with the 53 tooth?

I was thinking a 12-25 or 12-27? I'm also thinking of using a Shimano Ultegra cassette and Ultegra chain or KMC chain with my SRAM drivetrain... I heard it's a good combo.
8-32. You'll need the higher high-gear and lower low-gear.
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Old 09-25-11, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by gobikego
It's not really a good thing due to my horrible riding style, ridiculous sprint for half a minute making my way up to the 50/11 and then just use that momentum to coast/not pedal for a while. I'm not the most consistent rider...
Ah. Then you should learn to ride and pedal before you go changing equipment.
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Old 09-25-11, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mmmdonuts
Ah. Then you should learn to ride and pedal before you go changing equipment.
+1. Cranksets are expensive, I don't know why you'd go switching them until you know how to pedal your bike. Leave what you have and work on your pedaling.

Now, on the flats 50x11 is quite fast. Even if you can only spin the cranks at 100 RPM (which just about everyone should be able to do with some practice) that's 35 MPH.

So what that tells me, is that spinning out to you is probably about 70 RPM, maybe 65. In other words, you need to work on your cadence. Get a cadence sensor and work on it. Then if you still want a new crankset, go for it.

Last edited by ErichM; 09-25-11 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 09-25-11, 08:34 AM
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You can also swap out the chain rings. The make a 38/52 in a 100mm fro compact. Still cheaper than a new set up.
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Old 09-25-11, 08:43 AM
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He said he's planning a new build, not swapping out the crank on his existing bike. Therefore he needs to also make a cassette selection.

I'd go 12-27. Minimizes the unneeded top end, maximizes the bottom end, and doesn't have the missing middle gears that everyone deep down wishes their 11-28 had.
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Old 09-25-11, 08:46 AM
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eja_ bottecchia
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Originally Posted by FlashBazbo
If you don't already know the gear ratios you're after, I've got to ask . . . Why are you making the change in crankset? On the surface of it, if you don't need the 53/11, it seems you're only getting downside and no real benefit.
Second that.

BTW, I have a KMC chain. It works great, it is light weight and shifts/runs quietly and smoothly.
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Old 09-25-11, 08:49 AM
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^^^ I missed the new build part.

In that case the OP should play around with Sheldon's gear calculator and use it to find a cassette range with the high and low gears he wants and fill in the gears he likes. Place the ratios used most often toward the middle range of the cassette if possible.
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