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Bar end shifters and tape wrap - options?

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Bar end shifters and tape wrap - options?

Old 03-28-20, 06:56 PM
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madpogue 
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Bar end shifters and tape wrap - options?

So I searched, but found no threads specific to this question. So I have Suntour Barcon shifters and aero brake levers on a '91-'92 (date code 1971) Schwinn Duo-Sport road tandem. Rear is 7-speed Accushift, front is friction with a triple. Came with Aero Gran Compe brake levers, alas, the front one is damaged, probably from a fall. Main body is bent and the internal return spring is broken. So I'm replacing it with a sweet pair of Cane Creek aeros that just arrived to day from sloar . Band bolts are different, so I had to untape the bars, pull back shift and brake cables, and remove the barcons in order to swap the brake lever bands.

Which brings me to a decision point. Bike came with a Cinelli bar and stem for the pilot. If I keep them, I'll just re-wrap the bar the way it was, with the shift cables coming out of the wrap just as the bar bends upward, and the brake cables inside the wrap as usual. But I also have an ITM bar and old SR stem, and the bar has indentations for under-wrap cabling on both the front and back sides of the horizontal portion. So I'm thinking this might be an opportunity to run the brake cables on the front side, and the shift cables on the rear. But I'm stuck on the best way to route the shift cables, if that's what I decide to do. I've only seen a couple photos of handlebars wrapped in this way, and they're not sharp or close up enough to determine how the shift cables are routed. And my two video go-to guys on stuff like this, RJ and Calvin Jones @ Park Tool, were both dead ends.

I know there's extra friction involved with running the shift cables this way, and I'm sure some will say it's an especially bad idea with the added length of tandem cables. But I did a sort of dry run, just holding the housing along the bar up to near the stem, and the action was still plenty smooth. Given that I've pulled everything out, I reckon I'll probably run new cables, and perhaps new housings, anyway.

So does any one have fairly detailed close-up shots of the best way to incorporate this kind of bar with barcons and aeros?
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Old 03-28-20, 07:17 PM
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I've wrapped barcon cables all the way up (on the inside curve of the tops), but that was with conventional brake levers and at a customer's request so I don't know about the long term results. Never heard back good or bad. Certainly doable. Wrap the brake cables for the aero levers on the outside of the bends of the tops.

Older AGC levers had the cable base off-center so the cables could exit the lever body on the "inside" or the "outside" of the bar, so mount them so the brake cables exit on the outside and they won't interfere with the shifter cables on the inside. Does that make sense?

You can mock it up and just use duct tape pieces to hold the cables in place for a test ride without having to tape/untape/retape the whole thing if anything is wrong.

I had barcons with AGC levers on my Klein and had the brake cables running on the outside but I had the shifter cables exit the wrap just below the brake levers, as is customary. No pix of that setup but I also used Rhode Gear Handlebar Hide and I assure you that it was one helluva lacing job to get that all done.

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Old 03-28-20, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
Wrap the brake cables for the aero levers on the outside of the bends of the tops.
Y'know I entertained this idea. Run the shifter cables on the inside/front, and the brake cables on the outside/rear. But the brake cables exit the levers on the "inboard" side. So my next crazy thought was to reverse the levers, so the cable exits would be outboard. That would land the housings right at the outboard/rear indentations of the ITM bar. That woulda worked with the AGC levers, since they're pretty symmetrical on the outside. But the Cane Creeks, and also a set of Tektros I have on deck, are sorta left-handed and right-handed in their shape, so reversing them would look funny, and probably feel really strange.
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Old 03-28-20, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Y'know I entertained this idea. Run the shifter cables on the inside/front, and the brake cables on the outside/rear. But the brake cables exit the levers on the "inboard" side. So my next crazy thought was to reverse the levers, so the cable exits would be outboard. That would land the housings right at the outboard/rear indentations of the ITM bar. That woulda worked with the AGC levers, since they're pretty symmetrical on the outside. But the Cane Creeks, and also a set of Tektros I have on deck, are sorta left-handed and right-handed in their shape, so reversing them would look funny, and probably feel really strange.
Yeah, not familiar with those levers, so what you describe would make my suggested setup undesirable. It would really only work with the AGCs. Time to buy more parts!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ebar-tape.html

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Old 03-28-20, 07:44 PM
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With modern smooth redrawn cables and lined casing the cable friction concern is a lot less then back in the day. I would opt out of running brake cables on the bar's back sides if possible. The bulge right at the levers that the casing makes can be a poor shape right where one places their hand's heel when on the hoods. There's no reason that the brake and gear casings can't be run along side each other on the bar's front sides.

My usual location for bar end lever casing to exit the bar tape is slightly up the curve and just below the lever. Here's a shot of my touring bike with bar ends. The casing exits a tad lower down the bar's curve then usual to give a handle bar bag more clearance. Andy
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Old 03-28-20, 09:07 PM
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^^^^^ Thanks Andy, yeah, this is pretty much how the bike came to me. I should probably apologize for starting this thread. I fiddled around some more, just mocking up where the housings would route. And I think I've decided it's not worth trying to run the shift cables under the tape all (or most) of the way up. The friction tests I did earlier were with the handlebar straight ahead. I don't think that would be the issue. It was more how the remaining exposed parts of the cable housing would run when you turn the bar end to end. There was just too much potential to bind. So I think I'll run them just as you show, pretty much as they were.

BTW, that's an interesting mirror. Any more photos of it? How is it attached?
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Old 03-28-20, 10:21 PM
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I run the cables under the tape all the way upto the stem on my 520. Shifting is smooth, brake cable pull is slick. Current housing is on it's 3rd season, i believe, and still performing great, with many thousands of miles logged. The closeup photo of the right side of the cockpit has the cables routed on the inside of the drop, the side closest to the camera. I am currently runing a downtube shifter for the FD, but had that side setup the same before i installed a barend mirror.


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Old 03-29-20, 01:04 AM
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Hm, that looks interesting. My rear brake cable goes down the downtube, however, and I think that's where I figured there'd be routing issues. Well I'm not committed to anything yet, so maybe I'll try that. Does your bar have an indentation for a cable housing?
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Old 03-29-20, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
With modern smooth redrawn cables and lined casing the cable friction concern is a lot less then back in the day. I would opt out of running brake cables on the bar's back sides if possible. The bulge right at the levers that the casing makes can be a poor shape right where one places their hand's heel when on the hoods. There's no reason that the brake and gear casings can't be run along side each other on the bar's front sides.

My usual location for bar end lever casing to exit the bar tape is slightly up the curve and just below the lever. Here's a shot of my touring bike with bar ends. The casing exits a tad lower down the bar's curve then usual to give a handle bar bag more clearance. Andy
Andy. Is that a custom built mirror? If not, what make is it and how is it mounted to the brake lever?

Thanks and cheers
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Old 03-29-20, 08:37 AM
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I don't put much value in the bars that have casing indents. It seems to me that the indents don't do much for that hand on hoods with heel of palm on the tops of the bars. The outer cable casing (in my 1st gen Ergo levers this is the shift cable) still makes a significant bulge right at the wrong spot. I place a piece of bar tape (or wedge shaped rubber) between the two casings to better fill the gap where they exit the lever. This filler also smooths the bar to body transition, For brake onlt set ups those indentations on the back side only makes the bars have a sharper curve under your palm. I have filled in that back side indent sometimes but prefer bars without any.

The mirror is home made. One of a half dozen I have. One of my mentors was Bausch and Lomb's prototyping/modeling dept head. He came up with the general idea (in the 1970s)and machined out a few for fellow clubbers. A simple machine bolt from the lever's inside out and into the mirror's stand off held it on. Fast forward to Ergo levers and a need to reengineer the stand off and mirror stalk to work with the cable's different in the lever path. here's a diagram of the current design. The key is the good quality mirror. The wide angle glue on type that cost a few $ at the local truck stop suck in optical quality with massive distortions and inconsistent degrees of curvature. I got my mirrors from Edmund Scientific, which as of 20 years ago, or so, no longer had the type I liked. Feel free to copy and pass along. I call it a Burn's Sidewinder Mirror for Dick Burns. Andy
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Old 03-29-20, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Does your bar have an indentation for a cable housing?
The bars are the stock Bontrager Race VR-C aluminum, and i don't believe they had any indents for cable housing.
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Old 03-29-20, 09:46 AM
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Probably sounds weird, but when I ran barcons, I once tried running the shifter housings completely outside the tape the whole way- largely for the convenience of access to the whole cable system. I ended up really liking it.
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