Show us your Raleigh Super Course!
#1851
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Regardless, this guy says the Raleigh bronze green is a medium green enamel mixed (or top coated) with a bronze or gold flake metallic.
#1852
aka Tom Reingold
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I tried to color match the green on my SC and got sort of close, but the color I ended up with is somewhat lighter than my SC, I did not repaint my SC, but really liked the color and wanted it for another bike, the color/make up of the metallic flake seems to affect the finished color, I think.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#1853
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
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I know you're not talking to me, but with a knowledge of roughly how it was mixed you should be able to work with a body shop or aftermarket/repair paint shop to dial in a close match. The question would be "what shade of green looks like this when mixed with a gold metallic flake?"
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#1854
Senior Member
Your bike is lovely! Can I ask you about that triangular plate that is attached to the crankset?
And was that photo taken at the Vista Pt. on the North end of the Golden Gate Bridge?
One older guy showed interest in my bike today, told me it was beautiful, and asked if it was a new bike made to look like an old one, I guess I did such a good job cleaning and polishing that it doesn't look old. I told him it was a 1973 model, I bought it from the original owner, full disassemble and clean by me, including polihing the hubs...
I've been off the bike far too much the last 10 weeks, injury, wildfire smoke, life, work.... It was good to get out for a solid ride today for the first time in what seems like forever, I'm ready to get a bit of fitness back, coming right into winter, D'oh!
And was that photo taken at the Vista Pt. on the North end of the Golden Gate Bridge?
Originally Posted by jackbombay;2172030
7
7
One older guy showed interest in my bike today, told me it was beautiful, and asked if it was a new bike made to look like an old one, I guess I did such a good job cleaning and polishing that it doesn't look old. I told him it was a 1973 model, I bought it from the original owner, full disassemble and clean by me, including polihing the hubs...
I've been off the bike far too much the last 10 weeks, injury, wildfire smoke, life, work.... It was good to get out for a solid ride today for the first time in what seems like forever, I'm ready to get a bit of fitness back, coming right into winter, D'oh!
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#1855
aka Tom Reingold
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I know you're not talking to me, but with a knowledge of roughly how it was mixed you should be able to work with a body shop or aftermarket/repair paint shop to dial in a close match. The question would be "what shade of green looks like this when mixed with a gold metallic flake?"
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#1856
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Buying a pint (the smallest amount they sell) of automotive paint just for touch up is probably overkill, by the time you by the activator and reducer to get the paint ready to use it costs about $100, that is of course enough for many frames and forks, but you then also need a place to spray, and the overspray when using catalysed paint is much more likely to stick to things its not supposed to than rattle can paint, for touch up you wouldn't be spraying though.
For touch up I would probably look into mixing testors paints to get "close enough", easy to apply, and much cheaper.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions :-)
#1857
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
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I went to an automotive paint shop and picked form their big book of color chips, the color chips all had holes in the middle of them so you could place the little sample right on the frame to compare, I knew the color wasn't exact, but me, and the employee that worked there we pretty happy that we had the closest color of the ones available.
Buying a pint (the smallest amount they sell) of automotive paint just for touch up is probably overkill, by the time you by the activator and reducer to get the paint ready to use it costs about $100, that is of course enough for many frames and forks, but you then also need a place to spray, and the overspray when using catalysed paint is much more likely to stick to things its not supposed to than rattle can paint, for touch up you wouldn't be spraying though.
For touch up I would probably look into mixing testors paints to get "close enough", easy to apply, and much cheaper.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions :-)
Buying a pint (the smallest amount they sell) of automotive paint just for touch up is probably overkill, by the time you by the activator and reducer to get the paint ready to use it costs about $100, that is of course enough for many frames and forks, but you then also need a place to spray, and the overspray when using catalysed paint is much more likely to stick to things its not supposed to than rattle can paint, for touch up you wouldn't be spraying though.
For touch up I would probably look into mixing testors paints to get "close enough", easy to apply, and much cheaper.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions :-)
#1858
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In the color I wanted, from the shop I went to, the smallest amount I could get was a pint which wasn't the end of the world, but a half pint would have been plenty.
#1859
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Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
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noglider, Joe at 718 Cycles has been blogging and Instagramming experiments using Spray.Bike products. You might be inspired...
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
Last edited by ascherer; 09-30-20 at 01:46 PM. Reason: busted link?
#1860
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The triangular plate is a "tripilizer" that I made out of aluminum that replaces the spacers between the 2 stock chain rings and allows me to mount a MTB granny ring, so up front I have 52,39 and 28, and the rear is a 14-28 5 speed freewheel. Shifting in and out of the granny ring is not fantastic, but it is decent, having one to one gearing on this bike for long steep climbs is fantastic, I'd love to get an 11 tooth cog on the back for more top end on steep descents, but to do so I would have to get a new rear wheel and the bike is quite original/period correct and I want to keep it that way, so 52/14 is my high gear, which I can spin up to a bit over 40 MPH. I do generally like to take all my bikes over 50 MPH, I suppose I just need to find a very steep hill to make that reality on this bike...
Here are some pics of my tripilizer, I did polish the aluminum to compliment the chrome crank, I did have to fiddle around with various spacers to get the granny ring spacing correct, and I did have to get a slightly longer BB spindle to move the granny ring away from the chains stay a bit to eliminate interference, Fun cheap project all in all that made the bike much more useful for the steep hill I seek out.
3 bolt 116 BCD pattern plus 5 bolt 76mm BCD pattern,
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#1861
The dropped
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
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That is the north end of the GG bridge.
The triangular plate is a "tripilizer" that I made out of aluminum that replaces the spacers between the 2 stock chain rings and allows me to mount a MTB granny ring, so up front I have 52,39 and 28, and the rear is a 14-28 5 speed freewheel. Shifting in and out of the granny ring is not fantastic, but it is decent, having one to one gearing on this bike for long steep climbs is fantastic, I'd love to get an 11 tooth cog on the back for more top end on steep descents, but to do so I would have to get a new rear wheel and the bike is quite original/period correct and I want to keep it that way, so 52/14 is my high gear, which I can spin up to a bit over 40 MPH. I do generally like to take all my bikes over 50 MPH, I suppose I just need to find a very steep hill to make that reality on this bike...
Here are some pics of my tripilizer, I did polish the aluminum to compliment the chrome crank, I did have to fiddle around with various spacers to get the granny ring spacing correct, and I did have to get a slightly longer BB spindle to move the granny ring away from the chains stay a bit to eliminate interference, Fun cheap project all in all that made the bike much more useful for the steep hill I seek out.
3 bolt 116 BCD pattern plus 5 bolt 76mm BCD pattern,
The triangular plate is a "tripilizer" that I made out of aluminum that replaces the spacers between the 2 stock chain rings and allows me to mount a MTB granny ring, so up front I have 52,39 and 28, and the rear is a 14-28 5 speed freewheel. Shifting in and out of the granny ring is not fantastic, but it is decent, having one to one gearing on this bike for long steep climbs is fantastic, I'd love to get an 11 tooth cog on the back for more top end on steep descents, but to do so I would have to get a new rear wheel and the bike is quite original/period correct and I want to keep it that way, so 52/14 is my high gear, which I can spin up to a bit over 40 MPH. I do generally like to take all my bikes over 50 MPH, I suppose I just need to find a very steep hill to make that reality on this bike...
Here are some pics of my tripilizer, I did polish the aluminum to compliment the chrome crank, I did have to fiddle around with various spacers to get the granny ring spacing correct, and I did have to get a slightly longer BB spindle to move the granny ring away from the chains stay a bit to eliminate interference, Fun cheap project all in all that made the bike much more useful for the steep hill I seek out.
3 bolt 116 BCD pattern plus 5 bolt 76mm BCD pattern,
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#1863
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2-stage Raleigh Paint
You're right! Urethane was only used on cars starting in the 80's. I went looking and learned about auto finishes, and the most likely candidate is definitely enamel, but alkyd? Maybe acrylic? Regardless, this guy says the Raleigh bronze green is a medium green enamel mixed (or top coated) with a bronze or gold flake metallic.
I'm lucky enough to live near the PPG auto finish dealer for my region, so I usually bring a bike into their storefront, and the color match guys use their magic. Be warned that round tubes do not make for easy sun-gun matches!
I'm lucky enough to live near the PPG auto finish dealer for my region, so I usually bring a bike into their storefront, and the color match guys use their magic. Be warned that round tubes do not make for easy sun-gun matches!
#1865
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That is what I was told when I worked in a Bike shop in the sixties. I probably should have stated that to qualify my original reply. The blueish color is most likely primer.
Last edited by Teej1; 10-12-20 at 05:46 AM.
#1866
Senior Member
So I've always wanted a 531 frame and haven't really found one. So a couple of weeks back I came across a Raleigh Gran Sport turned into a gravel bike i was trying to talk the seller into switching back to original parts and he was willing to do it for 180. I was saving some cash to buy it but that fell through. Then a day later I came across this Super Course MKII in my area for 250, asked the seller to go to 150 and he said sure. I know it needs some parts to get it going again since his daughter turned it into a single speed bike.
Has the GB stem but needs new drop bars. Not sure what kind to look for.
Has the original rear brake but will need to find a matching front brake. Or if i want to upgrade what do you all recommend?
Has the original Stronglight crankset but is missing the large ring. would the crankset have been the one with a crazy huge chainguard? its missing the dust cap on the non drive side crank.
I haven't looked at it but i think she used the original Normady hub and added spacers to turn it into a single speed. Has front and read Normandy hubs.
And Weinmann 700c rims. They seem to just need a truing. wouldn't the originals be 27"? either way I don't mind 700c.
Has the GB stem but needs new drop bars. Not sure what kind to look for.
Has the original rear brake but will need to find a matching front brake. Or if i want to upgrade what do you all recommend?
Has the original Stronglight crankset but is missing the large ring. would the crankset have been the one with a crazy huge chainguard? its missing the dust cap on the non drive side crank.
I haven't looked at it but i think she used the original Normady hub and added spacers to turn it into a single speed. Has front and read Normandy hubs.
And Weinmann 700c rims. They seem to just need a truing. wouldn't the originals be 27"? either way I don't mind 700c.
#1867
Senior Member
Good find! I love the Super Course Mk II and that one has paint and decals that are in much better than average condition. Great starting point for a delightful build or restoration.
#1868
aka Tom Reingold
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Here is the latest picture of my 1971 Super Course. It now has a Technomic stem and a bell on the stem. I finished hooking up both dynamo lights and battery lights for extra safety on country roads. I'm not taking chances on not being seen. Traffic is light in the country, so I want people to see me from far away. When they see me, they behave considerately.
The bike is heavier than in its previous incantation. The tires, dynamo wheel, brifters, and crankset with steel chainrings have added weight. It feels pretty heavy, but I haven't weighed it yet.
The bike is heavier than in its previous incantation. The tires, dynamo wheel, brifters, and crankset with steel chainrings have added weight. It feels pretty heavy, but I haven't weighed it yet.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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#1869
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Has the original rear brake but will need to find a matching front brake. Or if i want to upgrade what do you all recommend?
Has the original Stronglight crankset but is missing the large ring. would the crankset have been the one with a crazy huge chainguard? its missing the dust cap on the non drive side crank.
I haven't looked at it but i think she used the original Normady hub and added spacers to turn it into a single speed. Has front and read Normandy hubs.
And Weinmann 700c rims. They seem to just need a truing. wouldn't the originals be 27"? either way I don't mind 700c.
Has the original Stronglight crankset but is missing the large ring. would the crankset have been the one with a crazy huge chainguard? its missing the dust cap on the non drive side crank.
I haven't looked at it but i think she used the original Normady hub and added spacers to turn it into a single speed. Has front and read Normandy hubs.
And Weinmann 700c rims. They seem to just need a truing. wouldn't the originals be 27"? either way I don't mind 700c.
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
#1870
elcraft
First, since Weinmann 999 Vainquer centerpulls are widely available and cheap I would recommend finding a front to match your rear. Good cables with Teflon-lined housing and modern salmon-colored pads combined with these calipers works as well or better than anything else out there. I run them with period-correct levers on a couple of bikes and with Tektro aero levers on another and they work great!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
Always a risk to make categorical statements about components on Bike Boom era Raleighs......
#1871
Senior Member
First, since Weinmann 999 Vainquer centerpulls are widely available and cheap I would recommend finding a front to match your rear. Good cables with Teflon-lined housing and modern salmon-colored pads combined with these calipers works as well or better than anything else out there. I run them with period-correct levers on a couple of bikes and with Tektro aero levers on another and they work great!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
My personal suspicion is that the bike boom demand exceeded the supplier's production capacity and they were at times forced to substitute higher-priced items they may have had in stock to meet their contractual commitments. Generally, from a sales perspective, the upgrades made the bikes easier to sell with the possible exception of the Jubilee equipped bikes which were restricted to a 24 tooth rear cog and couldn't meet the catalog spec. of a 14-28 rear cluster. Since we were in a hilly area I always felt compelled to mention that to a potential customer. No matter how they were equipped, the Super Courses did not linger in the shop - customers fell in love with the colors and the white panelling, plus they were at a rational price point for a bike that was quite light compared to its competitors.
I agree that the Weinmann concaves in 700C are likely not original. I don't think I saw Concaves on a Super Course until after the MkII and we were on to the ones with Raleigh branded Japanese components and, even then, I think they were still using 27" wheels.
#1872
Senior Member
First, since Weinmann 999 Vainquer centerpulls are widely available and cheap I would recommend finding a front to match your rear. Good cables with Teflon-lined housing and modern salmon-colored pads combined with these calipers works as well or better than anything else out there. I run them with period-correct levers on a couple of bikes and with Tektro aero levers on another and they work great!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
The Stronglight crank is NOT standard for the Super Course. The huge chainring guard was used on these cranks on the Gran Sport c.1972-76, along with a longer than normal 123mm spindle rather than the usual 118mm Stronglight. Stock for the Mk IIlike this would have been a steel Nervar Sport crank with alloy rings. You will want access to the Stronglight specific crank puller with its distinctive 23.35 mm threaded extractor. The T.A. side on the old Park tool is risky as it’s 23.0 and runs the risk of stripping the crank threads. The conventional 22.0 puller like everyone else uses is even riskier.
The rims are not stock. Normandy Sport hubs, yes, and you may have a wheelset from the Super Course Mk II TT where someone replaced the tubulars with these Weinmann concaves.
Very cool bike!
Thanks for the info on the cranks, I will need to get a crank puller now. I see that I can get the JA Stein one to use. I would like to use this crankset but would like to get a large ring, is there a place to get one or do I need to search the bay? I was wondering if the brakes were any good, glad I can reuse the rear and search for a front. As for the wheel set I figured someone changed out the original rims when I saw the 700c. Ill probably just clean the hubs, track down a 5 speed cassette and use the current wheel set. I will also need to track down a front and rear derailluer as well as shifters as well as drop bars. Any recommendations would help and thanx everyone for the input!
#1873
Senior Member
I actually like the Weinmann Centerpull brakes when they are set-up with the Kool-Stop "4-dot" salmon pads and modern cables/housing. I think they work as well as anything else. What may not be clear now, since you have 700C wheels, is whether you need a short-reach (model 610) or a long-reach (model 750) on the front. The Super Course MkII came originally with a 750 in the rear and a 610 on the front but you may need a little more reach given the smaller diameter wheels.
Here is a picture of the front brake (610) on my MkII with 27" wheels. You would need an additional 4mm of drop to align with the 700C wheels - maybe yes, maybe no?
Here is a picture of the front brake (610) on my MkII with 27" wheels. You would need an additional 4mm of drop to align with the 700C wheels - maybe yes, maybe no?
#1874
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenwood SC USA
Posts: 2,252
Bikes: 2002 Mercian Vincitore, 1982 Mercian Colorado, 1976 Puch Royal X, 1973 Raleigh Competition, 1971 Gitane Tour de France and others
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Thanks for the info on the cranks, I will need to get a crank puller now. I see that I can get the JA Stein one to use. I would like to use this crankset but would like to get a large ring, is there a place to get one or do I need to search the bay? I was wondering if the brakes were any good, glad I can reuse the rear and search for a front. As for the wheel set I figured someone changed out the original rims when I saw the 700c. Ill probably just clean the hubs, track down a 5 speed cassette and use the current wheel set. I will also need to track down a front and rear derailluer as well as shifters as well as drop bars. Any recommendations would help and thanx everyone for the input!
Re: the Stronglight 93 on this bike - when you pull the crank to service the BB, you’ll have the opportunity to see which spindle is in there. Hopefully it’s the 118, and all you’ll need to do is remove spacers from the left side of the axle and re-dish the rear wheel and thread on a new freewheel.
#1875
elcraft
Thanks for the info on the cranks, I will need to get a crank puller now. I see that I can get the JA Stein one to use. I would like to use this crankset but would like to get a large ring, is there a place to get one or do I need to search the bay? I was wondering if the brakes were any good, glad I can reuse the rear and search for a front. As for the wheel set I figured someone changed out the original rims when I saw the 700c. Ill probably just clean the hubs, track down a 5 speed cassette and use the current wheel set. I will also need to track down a front and rear derailluer as well as shifters as well as drop bars. Any recommendations would help and thanx everyone for the input!
The Stronglight 93 is an unusual size of 122 mm BCD. I know of only two sources for chain rings in this size. The first is a French site,
https://www.xxcycle.com/stronglight-...sition,,en.php
The other site is by a BF member, Jon Vara;
122 BCD Conventional Chainring, 37 Teeth.
finding a non worn chain ring on eBay is possible, but takes a long time, plus, they are usually in odd teeth counts. If you are looking to find an 1/8” chain ring size for a single speed, there was an Australian site that was famous for non communication and disinterest in commerce (allegedly). They purportedly CNC’d various designs in 1/8” widths. Otherwise, good luck on finding one.