How many of you question the cost of upgrading?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How many of you question the cost of upgrading?
For lack of a better title - basically when one purchases a vintage bike for a reasonable or bargain price perhaps even free and then proceed to lavish larger sums on parts etc. I bought a 1985 Norco Magnum GT recently because I have always liked the idea of owning one that had canti brakes and 700C wheels,something earlier touring bikes often lacked. Also helps that they are a Canadian company, even if the frame was made in Japan ( a positive actually ). Mid to late '80's touring bikes are harder to find regardless and I see very few for sale here. A Nitto Noodle 48 cm handlebar set me back 160.00 along with a pair of Rene Herse Barlow Pass 38mm ultralight tires at 291.00, including shipping. Fortunately the tires were available from a online source in Eastern Canada as our dollar has lost value, about 30% against U.S. currency which makes a bit of dent.
Initially I also ordered a pair of MKS Sylvan Touring pedals and a Nitto 60cm Technomic stem ( replacing a 90 cm ) for 130.00 combined - all of this with the aim of making the Norco more comfortable. I have used the Rene Herse tires on a 650b Rawland Stag ( 42mm ) and like them a lot so despite the cost feel they are worth it. I still might get a pair of Origin8 Classic brake levers and possibly a front rack from V.O. at some point. I should be able to also fit the V.O. 45mm hammered fenders if I go that route, initially I had hoped to go with 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires but possible clearance issues at the chain stays had me choosing the 38mm. At lest the Magnum GT has quite decent clearance for a vintage frame.
Anyone know what I should expect compared to the 28mm tires on it presently in regard to general handling? I believe the wider handlebars and tires will make it feel more stable and a bit " slower " in response - as it is the bike is definitely lighter and quick at the front end, especially with narrow 38 cm handlebars. I do like the 48 cm VO randonneur handlebars on the Stag so do prefer a similar width. I think this bike will handle a front rack mounted bag and still be responsive enough. Might just spring for a leather saddle, most likely an Ideale 80 but will give the Vetta it currently has a chance.
I suppose this might be old news here, spending more money on a bike then it is worth ( which is subjective anyway ) but then as I see it having a comfortable ride that fits you at this quality level for around 1,000.00 including the bike is not all that bad, and it will look better than most modern ones as well. I had not installed the stem or pedals yet in this image and just ordered the handlebars and tires. Initially going to put some light grey Velox cotton tape on the bars, should look alright. This particular Norco obviously saw little use over the years so I hope to remedy that. The only downside is how the handling suffered due to such narrow handlebars and some flat pedals would have been a better choice on a supposed touring bike though with 43cm chain stays I would consider this a sport tourer.
One other bonus of many vintage frames is a lack of toe overlap with the front tire. I remember trying out a Masi Randonneur a few years ago and it simply rode and felt terrible with a bad case of toe overlap. New is definitely not a case of better in that example.
Initially I also ordered a pair of MKS Sylvan Touring pedals and a Nitto 60cm Technomic stem ( replacing a 90 cm ) for 130.00 combined - all of this with the aim of making the Norco more comfortable. I have used the Rene Herse tires on a 650b Rawland Stag ( 42mm ) and like them a lot so despite the cost feel they are worth it. I still might get a pair of Origin8 Classic brake levers and possibly a front rack from V.O. at some point. I should be able to also fit the V.O. 45mm hammered fenders if I go that route, initially I had hoped to go with 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires but possible clearance issues at the chain stays had me choosing the 38mm. At lest the Magnum GT has quite decent clearance for a vintage frame.
Anyone know what I should expect compared to the 28mm tires on it presently in regard to general handling? I believe the wider handlebars and tires will make it feel more stable and a bit " slower " in response - as it is the bike is definitely lighter and quick at the front end, especially with narrow 38 cm handlebars. I do like the 48 cm VO randonneur handlebars on the Stag so do prefer a similar width. I think this bike will handle a front rack mounted bag and still be responsive enough. Might just spring for a leather saddle, most likely an Ideale 80 but will give the Vetta it currently has a chance.
I suppose this might be old news here, spending more money on a bike then it is worth ( which is subjective anyway ) but then as I see it having a comfortable ride that fits you at this quality level for around 1,000.00 including the bike is not all that bad, and it will look better than most modern ones as well. I had not installed the stem or pedals yet in this image and just ordered the handlebars and tires. Initially going to put some light grey Velox cotton tape on the bars, should look alright. This particular Norco obviously saw little use over the years so I hope to remedy that. The only downside is how the handling suffered due to such narrow handlebars and some flat pedals would have been a better choice on a supposed touring bike though with 43cm chain stays I would consider this a sport tourer.
One other bonus of many vintage frames is a lack of toe overlap with the front tire. I remember trying out a Masi Randonneur a few years ago and it simply rode and felt terrible with a bad case of toe overlap. New is definitely not a case of better in that example.
Last edited by VintageRide; 09-28-23 at 02:05 AM.
#2
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Posts: 5,658
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 2,531 Times
in
1,059 Posts
A boat is a hole in the water into which you shovel money.
A C&V bike project is a hole in dry land into which you shovel money. Much less money, but still . . . .
A C&V bike project is a hole in dry land into which you shovel money. Much less money, but still . . . .
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
Likes For bikingshearer:
#3
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,629
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3891 Post(s)
Liked 6,491 Times
in
3,213 Posts
Yeah, that's not me. A well used Cinelli stem and bars can be found for $30/ea (plus a can of oven cleaner). Old KKT pedals I can overhaul with clips for about the same. A new pair of tires for $100ish.
Likes For SurferRosa:
#4
WGB
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 2,917
Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1800 Post(s)
Liked 2,335 Times
in
1,378 Posts
I'll bite.
This summer I bought a Trek 400 for $125.
Bottom bracket replaced with a sealed unit, saddle replaced with a Brooks (I had), bars were too narrow, on goes a Philippe set (I had), off goes the 27 inch wheels. I wanted tubulars so I paid for an NOS set of GP4s and paid to have them laced to a set of 40/36 hubs. I wanted good rubber so trying Continental Competitions.
I don't want to even try to add up what I spent.
This summer I bought a Trek 400 for $125.
Bottom bracket replaced with a sealed unit, saddle replaced with a Brooks (I had), bars were too narrow, on goes a Philippe set (I had), off goes the 27 inch wheels. I wanted tubulars so I paid for an NOS set of GP4s and paid to have them laced to a set of 40/36 hubs. I wanted good rubber so trying Continental Competitions.
I don't want to even try to add up what I spent.
Likes For WGB:
#5
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2444 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
In this market you never get back anything but pride...
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
Likes For jdawginsc:
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
WGB - a sealed bottom bracket is also a consideration, but knowing me it would be something like the SKF which are what, over 100.00?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,684
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Mentioned: 156 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2326 Post(s)
Liked 5,012 Times
in
1,783 Posts
I don't usually question it but I sure am guilty of it....over....and over.....and over again.
I mean I'm the guy that rebuilt this bike with Dura Ace/Ultegra components and Dura Ace/Open Pro wheels.
I put way too much money in new/used parts on this one to ever recoup it.
Came to me with heavy 7 speed RX 400 parts.
It's a joy to ride now but still no where near worth what I put into it. And that's all good with me...cause I'm a bike nut!
I mean I'm the guy that rebuilt this bike with Dura Ace/Ultegra components and Dura Ace/Open Pro wheels.
I put way too much money in new/used parts on this one to ever recoup it.
Came to me with heavy 7 speed RX 400 parts.
It's a joy to ride now but still no where near worth what I put into it. And that's all good with me...cause I'm a bike nut!
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
Last edited by jamesdak; 09-28-23 at 07:00 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 831
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Specialissima, 1971 Bob Jackson. 2012 Kestrel 4000. 2012 Willier. 2016 Fuji Cross 1.1, 1950 Hetchins, 194X James Fothergill, 1971 Paramount P15, 1973 Paramount P12, 1963 Legnano
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked 956 Times
in
392 Posts
This thread just reinforces the need for a good parts bin. If the part is already in your parts bin, it's a sunk cost. Therefore if you pull the part from the bin the upgrade doesn't really cost anything. Yes, I keep telling myself this over and over.
#9
WGB
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Niagara Region
Posts: 2,917
Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1800 Post(s)
Liked 2,335 Times
in
1,378 Posts
I think those SKF bearings are closer to $200
#10
Senior Member
If you're spending money on something you ride and you enjoy the hobby then I say have at it....skies the limit. I am guilty as well....I like to go to swap meets and spend hundreds of dollars on stuff I don't need. As long as it doesn't interfere with the food, clothing and shelter budget it's all good.
__________________
Be where your feet are.......Lisa Bluder
Be where your feet are.......Lisa Bluder
Likes For r0ckh0und:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,870 Times
in
1,439 Posts
I go into every bike project with reasonable expectations about what I'm going to spend. What I'm going to spend isn't reasonable, but my expectations are.
I don't view it as an investment. I don't expect to be able to sell if for what I put in. There is a way that it comes out sensible though, and you touched on it in the first post. What would it cost you to get the bike you want? Generally what I want is a nice looking steel bike with quality components that typically include dual-pivot brakes and indexed shifting with a wide gear range. I can get new bikes that fit that description, but not for what I spend building one from a vintage frame. I also couldn't sell the new bike for what I spent on it, so the resale value is kind of a bad comparison anyway.
I don't view it as an investment. I don't expect to be able to sell if for what I put in. There is a way that it comes out sensible though, and you touched on it in the first post. What would it cost you to get the bike you want? Generally what I want is a nice looking steel bike with quality components that typically include dual-pivot brakes and indexed shifting with a wide gear range. I can get new bikes that fit that description, but not for what I spend building one from a vintage frame. I also couldn't sell the new bike for what I spent on it, so the resale value is kind of a bad comparison anyway.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
#12
The Wheezing Geezer
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Española, NM
Posts: 1,063
Bikes: 1976 Fredo Speciale, Jamis Citizen 1, Ellis-Briggs FAVORI, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 414 Post(s)
Liked 926 Times
in
448 Posts
Ten $100 decisions are easier to make than one $1000 decision.
Likes For Fredo76:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,834
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times
in
535 Posts
Looking at the bikes I’ve restored, and made comfortable and suitable for me, at 1000 bucks, you got off cheap. Enjoy the hobby and your ride. Nice bike by the way!
Tim
Tim
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 333
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
141 Posts
If you enjoy it ride it. If you want to enjoy it more feel free to spend money you won't get back but that's hobbies for ya. Prob better to just buy a better bike than expensive individual parts that won't make much difference. Depends what you are looking for in biking I guess.
#15
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,803
Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 429 Times
in
249 Posts
Always
I always question what the heck am I thinking.
$200 for the Panasonic complete
$250 for lighter NOS White Industries hubbed wheels
$400ish for my first dyno wheel and lighting system- things got out of hand with the LBS. i love the system anyway
$100? Switched out the steel bars and seat post for aluminum.
$50 ? New fenders
$70 for Panaracers
i got something unique. Rides great. No toe overlap. Made in Japan lugged steel- tapered butting? I think?
Rode for a week on the Katy Trail. Used Amtrak to get there and back. Nothing broke. Not even a flat. And some how the bike held off the rain. Priceless.
$200 for the Panasonic complete
$250 for lighter NOS White Industries hubbed wheels
$400ish for my first dyno wheel and lighting system- things got out of hand with the LBS. i love the system anyway
$100? Switched out the steel bars and seat post for aluminum.
$50 ? New fenders
$70 for Panaracers
i got something unique. Rides great. No toe overlap. Made in Japan lugged steel- tapered butting? I think?
Rode for a week on the Katy Trail. Used Amtrak to get there and back. Nothing broke. Not even a flat. And some how the bike held off the rain. Priceless.
Likes For mrv:
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,707
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1952 Post(s)
Liked 2,013 Times
in
1,112 Posts
Every bit you put on that Norco Tourer can be put on your next bike or several bikes. I see it as money in the bank.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Likes For Classtime:
#18
Senior Member
Er... You are missing honjo hammered fenders on your bike, and a set of nitto campee racks. Maybe an Acorn rando bag and tool bag would be nice.
Likes For abdon:
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,061
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4513 Post(s)
Liked 6,391 Times
in
3,675 Posts
You must be joking, the only question is "what can I do next and where am I going to get more money to do it".
Likes For merziac:
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,831 Times
in
1,997 Posts
painting is the fastest way to get upside down.
‘hidden bearing damage runs second.
Likes For repechage:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,442
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 642 Times
in
407 Posts
I do, because I am thrifty. And then I do it anyway. That said, I never intend to sell any of my bikes. If one plans to ever sell, and are concerned about "getting upside down"... that's a much different equation.
And if one thinks painting is expensive -- try a visit to the chrome shop.
And if one thinks painting is expensive -- try a visit to the chrome shop.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Likes For tiger1964:
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,798
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3515 Post(s)
Liked 2,929 Times
in
1,777 Posts
Definitely don't question the expense of upgrading. At least I didn't before I put a son in college.
I bought my Cinelli as a bare frame and initially built it up with mostly Ultegra parts, with a few Dura Ace parts (What I could afford at the time). Over the years, thanks almost exclusively to eBay, I've swapped out for all 7700 Dura Ace with some 7400 where appropriate. It wasn't cheap. About $100 per hub, $150 for the 25th Anniversary rear derailleur, about the same for 25th Anniversary brakes (Both of which have since gone up markedly in value), $100 bucks for a titanium rear axle, $35 bucks for compressionless brake cables; almost $100 bucks for toe straps; Maybe $75 bucks for titanium bolt upgrades. $100 for a Selle San Marco saddle.
All money well-spent. The bike is nowhere near worth what I have into it. But that's OK. Because I did it my way. And I had a helluva lot of fun in the process.
I bought my Cinelli as a bare frame and initially built it up with mostly Ultegra parts, with a few Dura Ace parts (What I could afford at the time). Over the years, thanks almost exclusively to eBay, I've swapped out for all 7700 Dura Ace with some 7400 where appropriate. It wasn't cheap. About $100 per hub, $150 for the 25th Anniversary rear derailleur, about the same for 25th Anniversary brakes (Both of which have since gone up markedly in value), $100 bucks for a titanium rear axle, $35 bucks for compressionless brake cables; almost $100 bucks for toe straps; Maybe $75 bucks for titanium bolt upgrades. $100 for a Selle San Marco saddle.
All money well-spent. The bike is nowhere near worth what I have into it. But that's OK. Because I did it my way. And I had a helluva lot of fun in the process.
Likes For smd4:
#23
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,369
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6222 Post(s)
Liked 4,222 Times
in
2,368 Posts
It depends. As stated elsewhere, upgrades shouldn’t be done with an eye to future sale. They should be done with an eye to what you want out of the bike. You should also choose projects that are worthy of the time and expense of upgrading. Upgrading a Schwinn Varsity in an attempt to make it into a racing machine is a fools errand. Most any upgrade to a Schwinn Varsity for any purpose is a fools errand. Pick a good bike for upgrade projects.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Likes For cyccommute:
#24
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2444 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
Related, building a bike from the frame up. Especially if you don't use a donor (none is available or something). The build will almost ALWAYS be more expenditure than return value.
If it was an investment machine in my garage, my stockbroker would be fired. Luckily it isn't.
EDIT: Uh oh...post is number 666...6
If it was an investment machine in my garage, my stockbroker would be fired. Luckily it isn't.
EDIT: Uh oh...post is number 666...6
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#25
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,985
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26427 Post(s)
Liked 10,384 Times
in
7,212 Posts
.
... the concepts of "money" and "art" are diametrically opposed. So with hand made bicycles, I tell myself I'm involved in art. Art is for connoisseurs. Money is about having enough so it lasts until you die, broke. I can still remember when there was a hipster ethos that valued "artisanal objects". I guess it wasn't that long ago, but it seems like forever.
... the concepts of "money" and "art" are diametrically opposed. So with hand made bicycles, I tell myself I'm involved in art. Art is for connoisseurs. Money is about having enough so it lasts until you die, broke. I can still remember when there was a hipster ethos that valued "artisanal objects". I guess it wasn't that long ago, but it seems like forever.
__________________
Likes For 3alarmer: