Help getting cassette lock ring off?
#1
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Help getting cassette lock ring off?
In haste, I forgot to add a spacer to my 8 spd cassette and now not able to get my lock ring off to change to a 9 spd.
The removal tool, doesn't have enough depth to catch the splines and is actually rounding it off a bit.
I'd tried two tools with no luck and also a screw driver and hammer.
Some sort or mechanical spanner or ratchet device may work, I just don't know what exists and don't want to spend a ton to work on a $20 wheel.
Any thoughts on this? btw, it's Shimano if it matters
The removal tool, doesn't have enough depth to catch the splines and is actually rounding it off a bit.
I'd tried two tools with no luck and also a screw driver and hammer.
Some sort or mechanical spanner or ratchet device may work, I just don't know what exists and don't want to spend a ton to work on a $20 wheel.
Any thoughts on this? btw, it's Shimano if it matters
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Use the skewer to hold the cassette tool tight to the lock ring. Leave just loose enough so that you can “crack” the threads. This will help keep whatever you have engaged.
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Screwdriver and hammer? I hope this is a joke thread.
Cassette spacers have absolutely nothing to do with how well the lockring tool engages...
Cassette spacers have absolutely nothing to do with how well the lockring tool engages...
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The lockring is on the outside either way, right?
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It's a generic Alivio hub, because the spacer between the cassette and hub is missing, the lock ring is just about touching the nut holding in the bearings. Since it's so close to the lock ring, the tool can't be inserted deep enough to catch the splines on the lock ring. Typically a missing spacer will result in a wobbly cassette, but with this combo it's on pretty good and I didn't know it and had used it that way for about a year.
#8
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Put the tool in a bench vise with the splines sticking up, and place the wheel horizontally so that lockring is on the tool. With the chainwhip properly engaged, rotate the wheel and chainwhip by holding spokes and whip together and press down to keep the tool engaged. You get a lot of leverage this way and having the wheel horizontal will keep it engaged.
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Take the lock nut and axle cone off the non drive side, pull the axle out the drive and then use the tool to remove the cassette lock ring. The tool won't bottom out before reaching the splines and have plenty of engagement.
Last edited by nomadmax; 09-06-19 at 06:04 AM.
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I ended up with the tool in the vise and I could push down with enough pressure to just make it work.
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Put the tool in a bench vise with the splines sticking up, and place the wheel horizontally so that lockring is on the tool. With the chainwhip properly engaged, rotate the wheel and chainwhip by holding spokes and whip together and press down to keep the tool engaged. You get a lot of leverage this way and having the wheel horizontal will keep it engaged.
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Funny, I ran into the OP's problem for the first time at the shop yesterday afternoon, after reading about it in the morning. I first tried removing the axle, but there was a dust seal behind the lock ring that wouldn't let me do it.
I ended up with the tool in the vise and I could push down with enough pressure to just make it work.
I ended up with the tool in the vise and I could push down with enough pressure to just make it work.
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Didn't think till I tried it but the tool has a rod that goes through the hub on one side so no chance using a skewer, but that's good thinking out of the box
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There are two different ones made by Park Tool. One has a hole, one has a rod for a qr hub. There might even be one for 12mm thru, but the one with the hole is universal.
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