What have you been wrenching on lately?
#2276
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
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Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
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#2277
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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I could see them Tom (Pictures) and that hasn't always been the case
#2278
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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I am closer to getting the Takara I picked up to scavenge parts from closer to being functional and road worthy. The cables are run, the brakes and shifting are ok but they need a bit more tweaking and I threw on a rack, kickstand and rear fender I had laying about too. Of course now I need to go to the Co-op to see if I can find an orphan front fender to mount, then I can pitch it as a rain bike. With any luck the nice used 700c wheels (Mavic/Ultegra) I bought the bike for will end up being free when all is said and done.
Last edited by ryansu; 10-07-19 at 05:25 PM.
#2279
Overdoing projects
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
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Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
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Because the Shimano 8-speed hub was spitting teeth and coughing up blood on my Gazelle commuter I decided to swap everything out with the 7-speed hub from the SilverAce.
Took a bit of fiddling but it works!
I had to laugh though when I opened up the shifter, it's a complex bit of engineering with its own set of pulleys for smooth shifting and a special cap that can slide out of place to insert the cable.
Modern shifters for newer versions are a much simpler design but wear out much more quickly.
Took a bit of fiddling but it works!
I had to laugh though when I opened up the shifter, it's a complex bit of engineering with its own set of pulleys for smooth shifting and a special cap that can slide out of place to insert the cable.
Modern shifters for newer versions are a much simpler design but wear out much more quickly.
#2280
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bloomington, IN
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Tom,
What do you use the mixer for? Cement shoes for non-believers in C&V? Har,Har, Har! Smiles, MH
What do you use the mixer for? Cement shoes for non-believers in C&V? Har,Har, Har! Smiles, MH
#2281
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: City of Angels
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I started a thread but will also post here I bought this sad-looking Torfeo last week on CL for a song.
as found
Polished up cables changed and Tri-bars replaced...I think its getting there.
Best, Ben
as found
Polished up cables changed and Tri-bars replaced...I think its getting there.
Best, Ben
#2282
Senior Member
I couldn't resist a $10 deal on Ebay for two sets of tricolor Benotto tape, and used one on my Motobecane. Also shoutout to @3speedslow for the headbadge he offered up on the Pay it Forward thread. Finally got around to affixing it.
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#2284
Senior Member
#2285
Senior Member
And I appreciate the compliment. I just ran out on it for an hour, and I have to say, I don’t ride this bike enough!
#2286
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
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Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
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I replaced a 175mm, Ultegra 6500, crankset with a 170mm Dura Ace, 7701, that I found on Ebay. The asking price was $120, I offered $90 inc. shipping, and it was accepted. I was hesitant to make the purchase and looked at it a few times. There are a lot of used 172.5mm, 175mm and 180mm in both Ultegra and Dura Ace, but 170 is slim pickings. I was pleasantly surprised when I received the crankset, it is much better shape than the pictures showed. Once I cleaned and polished, I found it to be in VGS. The rings, 53-39 show almost no wear, some heel rub on the arms but not bad, the threads and bolt/covers are in great shape. I am not using the 53 tooth ring as I also purchased a 48T, 130 bcd Vuelta SE Plus ring. Also, I already have a few 53T from previous bikes and changes. Anybody needs one let me know. They are from used but good to barely used, like new.
I still need to replace both the brake and gear cables. When I got home with the bike and was doing an initial cleaning/check, I realized the cables had all been cut very close to the mechanisms, were not capped and started to fray. Also the front derailleur was so low that the teeth of the in place 48 t ring were obscured by the cage. The rings themselves were a bit beat up. While I am at that, I am also going to replace the Sora FD with a Tiagra or 105 FD.
Today I trued the front wheel, my first time doing that, and we will see how well, or not well, I did that. I am going to do the rear wheel tomorrow. I really like the bike and am ok with all these things. I found I could have taken a closer, better look at it, maybe gotten a bit better price, but I am satisfied with the whole of the outcome. It is a used bike.
I still need to replace both the brake and gear cables. When I got home with the bike and was doing an initial cleaning/check, I realized the cables had all been cut very close to the mechanisms, were not capped and started to fray. Also the front derailleur was so low that the teeth of the in place 48 t ring were obscured by the cage. The rings themselves were a bit beat up. While I am at that, I am also going to replace the Sora FD with a Tiagra or 105 FD.
Today I trued the front wheel, my first time doing that, and we will see how well, or not well, I did that. I am going to do the rear wheel tomorrow. I really like the bike and am ok with all these things. I found I could have taken a closer, better look at it, maybe gotten a bit better price, but I am satisfied with the whole of the outcome. It is a used bike.
#2287
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
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Needed a shorter stem for my long top tubed Moto GR. And the dia-compe hoods on it were killin' the classy vibe. So I found an 80mm Cinelli stem and got some Rustines. New Fizik tape, too. Feels great.
.
.
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#2288
Old Boy
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Minnesota
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Bikes: Mostly 1st-generation, top-of-the-line, non-unicrown MTBs/ATBs: All 1984 models: Dawes Ranger, Peugeot Canyon Express, Ross Mt. Whitney (chrome), Schwinn High Sierra, and a 1983 Trek 850.
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What HAVEN'T I Been Wrenching On Lately?
This is always a frantic time of year for me. Autumn is the most beautiful, yet turbulent season we have in Minnesota. So I tend to throw budget to the wind and make sure I have enough projects to get me through the winter. But then, once I have them, I start working on them right away. I don't have any photos yet, but I have just completed a 1981 Waterford Trek 412 custom commuter build, and am about to start on a Raleigh Portage touring project that will take me through much of the winter. I will update you all on my progress, and I hope to post some photos of the new Trek build amidst the Autumn leaves soon.
Last edited by DQRider; 10-10-19 at 06:29 AM.
#2289
Rustbelt Rider
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
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Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
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The Melton is ready for it’s maiden voyage tomorrow morning.
#2290
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
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Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
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1948 Sunbeam sympathically restored (no paint)
All the bits for a 1948 Sunbeam. Everything wire brushed, rust converted and clear - coated.
Frame, fenders, little old oil bath etc, cleaned, rust converted, clear coated and waxed.
Never encountered this before. The steerer bearings have their own upper and lower bearing races. Each set sits inside a swaged fairing integral to the frame.
#2292
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
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Bikes: '82 Univega Competizione, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '83 Mercian KOM Touring, '85 Univega Alpina Uno, '76 Eisentraut Limited
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I finally got this Univega Competizione in a good state after moving away from an attempt at making it a brifter bike.
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#2293
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Excellent condition. I can't recall ever seeing one of those for sale locally, or anywhere in the state, they seem like they're quite rare. Probably went for close to a grand new.
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#2294
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: North East Ohio
Posts: 56
Bikes: 1977 Trek Tx700, 1978 Trek 510, 1969 Raleigh Competition, 1985 Univega Viva Sport, 1991 Bridgestone RB-1, 1986 Schwinn Voyageur, 1987 Bianchi Limited, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 2019 Surly Karate Monkey
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In a moment of clarity? or insanity? I guess it depends on your perspective. I took a part my 1991 Bridgestone RB-1 with plans to sell it. I haven't ridden it in almost 5 years. I'm also losing interest in the functionality of the older components. While they look great, I've come to appreciate modern conveniences. So, I took the RB-1 apart. N-1 is a real thing in my life right now. (A 2 bedroom place is not big enough for 16 bikes....). But as I'm looking at it, I'm having second thoughts. I didn't like the old components nor the stem with the incredibly long reach. It wasn't comfortable so I never rode it. Maybe if I throw some new parts on it I'd like it. Plus I have some red Fulcrum wheels and they fit 28mm tires. Its a snug fit but doable. I've ridden worse. I also have new Sram Apex 2x10 just waiting to be taken out of the box and some new Lizard Skin bar tape.
I may not have gotten rid of a bike. If I like it, I will have gotten rid of a bike I don't ride. Plus if this is better than it's possible replacement then N-1 will truly happen because I won't need that one. Maybe.
What it looked like before with a super sweet filter.
I may not have gotten rid of a bike. If I like it, I will have gotten rid of a bike I don't ride. Plus if this is better than it's possible replacement then N-1 will truly happen because I won't need that one. Maybe.
What it looked like before with a super sweet filter.
#2295
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Finished the Takara to the point of being a functional rain bike to get it out the door since I mined it for a nice 700c wheelset (mavic open pro) and suntour bar cons.
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#2296
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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In a moment of clarity? or insanity? I guess it depends on your perspective. I took a part my 1991 Bridgestone RB-1 with plans to sell it. I haven't ridden it in almost 5 years. I'm also losing interest in the functionality of the older components. While they look great, I've come to appreciate modern conveniences. So, I took the RB-1 apart. N-1 is a real thing in my life right now. (A 2 bedroom place is not big enough for 16 bikes....). But as I'm looking at it, I'm having second thoughts. I didn't like the old components nor the stem with the incredibly long reach. It wasn't comfortable so I never rode it. Maybe if I throw some new parts on it I'd like it. Plus I have some red Fulcrum wheels and they fit 28mm tires. Its a snug fit but doable. I've ridden worse. I also have new Sram Apex 2x10 just waiting to be taken out of the box and some new Lizard Skin bar tape.
I may not have gotten rid of a bike. If I like it, I will have gotten rid of a bike I don't ride. Plus if this is better than it's possible replacement then N-1 will truly happen because I won't need that one. Maybe.
What it looked like before with a super sweet filter.
I may not have gotten rid of a bike. If I like it, I will have gotten rid of a bike I don't ride. Plus if this is better than it's possible replacement then N-1 will truly happen because I won't need that one. Maybe.
What it looked like before with a super sweet filter.
#2297
Senior Member
Dream Plus...new medium cage rear mech with 13/29 cassette....now try and catch me...
...last of the square taper..
...last of the square taper..
Last edited by Ninetimes; 10-10-19 at 10:06 PM. Reason: ...
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#2298
Senior Member
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Location: adelaide, australia
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New cockpit setup. Going to love the levers I think, everything fits ergonomically in place.
Just had to order a grey cable set as im 100mm short of a full set. Waiting on brake pads too, so frustrating
Just had to order a grey cable set as im 100mm short of a full set. Waiting on brake pads too, so frustrating
#2299
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: North East Ohio
Posts: 56
Bikes: 1977 Trek Tx700, 1978 Trek 510, 1969 Raleigh Competition, 1985 Univega Viva Sport, 1991 Bridgestone RB-1, 1986 Schwinn Voyageur, 1987 Bianchi Limited, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 2019 Surly Karate Monkey
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I will admit N-1 started at 16 and currently down to less. I started hanging frames in the corners so squirrel them into the corner. Got another pair on the other side of that room. About to set up yet another pair in a different room. I have 6 frames, and 5 assembled bikes. I do have a another similar rack for my '69 Raleigh Competition which is purely for display.
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#2300
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Spent some time finishing a pair of wheels for my Nishiki International. I noticed, in the spring, that the rear wheel was failing - multiple spoke nipples pulling out, cracks at the rim holes. Not many but enough to call it quits. I obtained another pair of wheels with those fine Araya A20 rims and Sansin hubs. Got them real cheap as the hubs were in trouble. So......
Got new cones for both wheels.
Polished the front cups and they're OK
Had to source new cups for the rear. A bit of head on the hub enabled me to punch the old cups out. Got 3 wheels of a friends junk pile and took all the hubs apart. One set of cups looked great but were about 0.4mm too large. I figured out a way to mill them down, even though I don't have a metal lathe. Heated the "new" hub and punched those cups in, well bottomed against the hub shoulder.
Today's job was to shorten the axle 1mm to get the right length and change out the DS spacers to get the OLD I needed for my frame. Then into the truing stand. The wheel was dished wrong by 10mm. Ugh. But got that sorted and the wheel trued. Good lighting, Solas on the CD player, take my time. I finish my truing by the sound of my feelers brushing the rim. I have to turn off the stereo towards the end as the sound of that brushing gets so faint when I'm within 10ths of a mm. They look good now. Oh, the front wheel was pretty nice as is, well dished and just a few touch ups well in excess of what's needed. I true them that close cuz I can with my 'stand'.
I'll swap over the tires and the FW this weekend and ride that bike for the second time this year. Found the cracked rim after that first ride.
Got new cones for both wheels.
Polished the front cups and they're OK
Had to source new cups for the rear. A bit of head on the hub enabled me to punch the old cups out. Got 3 wheels of a friends junk pile and took all the hubs apart. One set of cups looked great but were about 0.4mm too large. I figured out a way to mill them down, even though I don't have a metal lathe. Heated the "new" hub and punched those cups in, well bottomed against the hub shoulder.
Today's job was to shorten the axle 1mm to get the right length and change out the DS spacers to get the OLD I needed for my frame. Then into the truing stand. The wheel was dished wrong by 10mm. Ugh. But got that sorted and the wheel trued. Good lighting, Solas on the CD player, take my time. I finish my truing by the sound of my feelers brushing the rim. I have to turn off the stereo towards the end as the sound of that brushing gets so faint when I'm within 10ths of a mm. They look good now. Oh, the front wheel was pretty nice as is, well dished and just a few touch ups well in excess of what's needed. I true them that close cuz I can with my 'stand'.
I'll swap over the tires and the FW this weekend and ride that bike for the second time this year. Found the cracked rim after that first ride.
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