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A stupid question about fat tire bikes, please?

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A stupid question about fat tire bikes, please?

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Old 09-12-15, 12:30 PM
  #1  
FarHorizon
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A stupid question about fat tire bikes, please?

The cruiser I have came from the factory with 26x3.5" tires. The darned things rubbed against the chain and the chain guard unless I cocked the rear wheel slightly left of the bike's center line.

I decided to solve that particular problem by purchasing a pair of 26x3" tires. In theory, this should have provided me with an additional 0.25" clearance on both sides of the tire. No such luck! These tires seem to have the same width as the previous ones, and they still rub against the chain & chain guard unless cocked slightly left.

Initially, I thought of putting a couple of washers on the outside of the axle, inboard of the frame, but that won't make a bit of difference - the rear cog is still the same distance from the center of the hub (and will still rub against the tire).

Other than PRECISELY positioning the wheel such that it has but microscopic clearance between the outside of the tire and the chain, (which is a monumental PITA), how can I do away with this issue? Does anyone make rims wider than those used on 2.125 tires but narrower than the tractor rims used on the beach cruisers? Does anyone make a 26x2.75" tire?

Thanks - FarHorizon
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Old 09-12-15, 01:05 PM
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Schwinn cruiser rear wheels? Sta-Tru 26x1.5/75 QR Rear Fw Alloy 36H Wheel Bikewagon
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Old 09-12-15, 02:41 PM
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You didn't change the width of the wheels rim is why you are still having the problem. You need a narrower rim to move the tire away from the chain. Any tire of those sizes will be almost as wide as the rim it is on. Roger
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Old 09-12-15, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by FarHorizon
The cruiser I have came from the factory with 26x3.5" tires. The darned things rubbed against the chain and the chain guard unless I cocked the rear wheel slightly left of the bike's center line.

I decided to solve that particular problem by purchasing a pair of 26x3" tires. In theory, this should have provided me with an additional 0.25" clearance on both sides of the tire. No such luck! These tires seem to have the same width as the previous ones, and they still rub against the chain & chain guard unless cocked slightly left.

Initially, I thought of putting a couple of washers on the outside of the axle, inboard of the frame, but that won't make a bit of difference - the rear cog is still the same distance from the center of the hub (and will still rub against the tire).

Other than PRECISELY positioning the wheel such that it has but microscopic clearance between the outside of the tire and the chain, (which is a monumental PITA), how can I do away with this issue? Does anyone make rims wider than those used on 2.125 tires but narrower than the tractor rims used on the beach cruisers? Does anyone make a 26x2.75" tire?

Thanks - FarHorizon
Is this a new bike? That is something that should have been address with the dealer unless you changed something
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Old 09-13-15, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rhenning
You didn't change the width of the wheels rim is why you are still having the problem. You need a narrower rim to move the tire away from the chain. Any tire of those sizes will be almost as wide as the rim it is on. Roger
I think you're right, Roger. And, yes, it is a new bike. But I won it in a raffle, and the problem isn't with any dealer - it's with the design itself. The rims are WIDE and are also single-wall, which makes me doubt the durability of the wheels to start with. I'd be happy with narrower rims (and tires), but it seems a shame to have to replace the wheel-set on a brand new bike. Maybe I'll contact the manufacturer & ask their advice?

If there's no other solution, then a new wheel set it is. Who makes a good coaster-brake wheel set?
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Old 09-27-15, 06:41 PM
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It sounds like Vee Rubber may have a 26x2.8 version of their Speedster road tire coming out soon.
2016 Vee ({(Plusbike Tire Line Up!)**)! |
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Old 09-27-15, 06:58 PM
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To add a 1/4 inch clearance on the drive side, why not dish the wheel a little off center, if you have enough room to spare on the non drive side?
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Old 09-28-15, 08:20 AM
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what brand of bike? is it a one or three piece crank? maybe describe how it hits both the tire and the chain guard and how hard it's up against them.

maybe space the front sprocket out a little (i've also heard of offset rear sprockets but have no experience with them), but not knowing the particulars mentioned above i can't say it would work. maybe work out clearance for the tire, then bend the chainguard a bit to clear in whatever way it needs to, but again i don't know how it hitting.
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Old 09-28-15, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Last ride 76
To add a 1/4 inch clearance on the drive side, why not dish the wheel a little off center, if you have enough room to spare on the non drive side?
Why would you want the wheel off of centerline? It would ride funky.
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Old 09-28-15, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by FarHorizon
...the problem isn't with any dealer - it's with the design itself.
Originally Posted by Last ride 76
To add a 1/4 inch clearance on the drive side, why not dish the wheel a little off center, if you have enough room to spare on the non drive side?
Some fat bikes - I'm not saying this is one - have standard 135-width rear dropouts offset to the right, and the wheel is supposed to be dished to the left.
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Old 09-28-15, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
Why would you want the wheel off of centerline? It would ride funky.
Seriously? This is a cruiser. Cruiser wheels are often more than a 1/4 inch out of true, if they have coaster brakes.
I doubt that with 3 inch wide tires, shifting the wheel a little off center is going to be terribly noticeable.

On racing bikes, with tubular wheels I have ridden improperly dished wheels as well, dished for 5 gears on 126mm spreads with no tragic results, and fat sixes on bikes spread at 130. But heck, it was just an idea, maybe not a good one. Just seemed like an easy solution to me.

Cheers, Eric

PS I was assuming he couldn't just bend out the chain guard, which would be even simpler.

Last edited by Last ride 76; 09-29-15 at 06:52 AM. Reason: spelling and grammar...
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Old 09-28-15, 02:02 PM
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Can't you just redish the wheels slightly to the nondrive side?
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Old 09-30-15, 08:37 PM
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Coaster hubs usually take a standard 3-spline cog. Maybe a dished cog would give you enough extra clearance?
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Old 10-01-15, 09:52 AM
  #14  
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Problem solved - This one is going to CraigsList. I don't need the wider tires (or the irritation).
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Old 01-24-16, 12:38 AM
  #15  
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Stick with a US made 26x1.75" to 1.95-2" rim and don't stray beyond 2.00" MTB or 2.125 "balloon". Fat Franks look cool but if you are larger or heavier go to a 29".

Remember that these bikes were originally marketed for 'big kids'.

Prior to around 1933 adult bikes had 28" wheels. 26" in various forms was next including the 'balloon' tire of 26x2.125"

Common sizes for juvenile bikes up included 12, 16, 20, 22 and 24" IIRC. Girls large bikes were 24".

Until mountain bikes became popular that was how it went. I do not see what a 3" tire is for when you just cruise Main Street, it's a fad.

Now if that is YOU in the avatar I am guessing you are between 5'6" and 6'1" and not overly heavy. A sturdy 26" cruiser or MTB would be just fine, as long as it fits your stroke. Don't settle for gimmicks, find a solid bike, new or vintage and find tires that work well with the bike. I don't care about 'offset', dishing or other things that go WHOOSH over my head.

Like anything I get, it has to WORK or I can fix it. Rocket science is for Marvin the Martian.

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Last edited by Rollfast; 01-24-16 at 12:42 AM.
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