What is/was the best Raleigh road bike of the 1970s?
07-03-20, 12:32 PM
#76
Senior Member
The best set up I found on the '77 SC was with a 70mm stem, (vs the 110mm it came with), and a pair of 4" straight riser bars.
The worst ride I had on it was down a hill up where I lived in PA, it was about 5 miles or so of steady drop at about 11% grade. It was the longest ride I took it on, and was I was about 40 miles from home on it. On a fast decent the bike started to get handlebar shake, this was with the Nitto north road bars and the 110mm GB stem. I was letting it roll a bit and a change in pavement surface set it off. I did save it but it made me rethink the whole set up. I was moving along at a pretty good clip when it happened, I saved it by skidding the back tire to one side and bringing it back in line again.
I went through a half dozen bar and stem changes before settling on the alloy riser bar and shorter stem. It made it okay, but not good. I put the bike back to stock and still ride it today. I bought it new, I doubt if I'll ever sell that one. I had a similar result with an upright conversion on a Panasonic DX4000 which I built a Nexus 7 speed wheelset for. The bike had no directional stability with the upright bars and the hub made it feel like a tank. I had a Dawes Galaxy and a Carlton Corsa Strada that I converted to upright bikes and both of those worked out very well. I also had good luck doing the same north road bar conversion with a 100mm stem on a 1971 Raleigh Competition on which I used a pair of vintage alloy north road type bars, a short stem, a B72 saddle, and an Sturmey Archer S5 hub shifted with two SA trigger shifters.
That bike was a bit small for me, so when I got the chance to upgrade the frame, I swapped everything over from the 23.5" frame to a 25.5" frame from a 1978 model.
The bike was great with the '71 frame, but terrible with the larger '78 frame. I didn't keep it, a buddy rode it and fell in love with it so we made a deal. I basically swapped it for a '66 GMC pickup truck with a slide in camper.
I never felt the B17 did well for me on an upright bike, that model seems best used on a bike where your more or less pushing against the saddle vs. sitting atop of it.
The B17 is my first choice on any vintage Raleigh. Comfort wise, I always felt the Ideal 80 was a better fit for me for some reason on my drop bar bikes.
As I get older, I'm getting away from drop bars and strongly prefer a straight bar conversion and have a few projects sitting waiting for me to get around to them.
The worst ride I had on it was down a hill up where I lived in PA, it was about 5 miles or so of steady drop at about 11% grade. It was the longest ride I took it on, and was I was about 40 miles from home on it. On a fast decent the bike started to get handlebar shake, this was with the Nitto north road bars and the 110mm GB stem. I was letting it roll a bit and a change in pavement surface set it off. I did save it but it made me rethink the whole set up. I was moving along at a pretty good clip when it happened, I saved it by skidding the back tire to one side and bringing it back in line again.
I went through a half dozen bar and stem changes before settling on the alloy riser bar and shorter stem. It made it okay, but not good. I put the bike back to stock and still ride it today. I bought it new, I doubt if I'll ever sell that one. I had a similar result with an upright conversion on a Panasonic DX4000 which I built a Nexus 7 speed wheelset for. The bike had no directional stability with the upright bars and the hub made it feel like a tank. I had a Dawes Galaxy and a Carlton Corsa Strada that I converted to upright bikes and both of those worked out very well. I also had good luck doing the same north road bar conversion with a 100mm stem on a 1971 Raleigh Competition on which I used a pair of vintage alloy north road type bars, a short stem, a B72 saddle, and an Sturmey Archer S5 hub shifted with two SA trigger shifters.
That bike was a bit small for me, so when I got the chance to upgrade the frame, I swapped everything over from the 23.5" frame to a 25.5" frame from a 1978 model.
The bike was great with the '71 frame, but terrible with the larger '78 frame. I didn't keep it, a buddy rode it and fell in love with it so we made a deal. I basically swapped it for a '66 GMC pickup truck with a slide in camper.
I never felt the B17 did well for me on an upright bike, that model seems best used on a bike where your more or less pushing against the saddle vs. sitting atop of it.
The B17 is my first choice on any vintage Raleigh. Comfort wise, I always felt the Ideal 80 was a better fit for me for some reason on my drop bar bikes.
As I get older, I'm getting away from drop bars and strongly prefer a straight bar conversion and have a few projects sitting waiting for me to get around to them.
07-03-20, 12:48 PM
#77
Senior Member
07-03-20, 01:15 PM
#78
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This was the "best" Raleigh of the 70's, so good they made them into the 80's
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07-03-20, 01:16 PM
#79
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07-03-20, 01:49 PM
#80
Full Member
If I knew the make of the bars, I'd tell you. I guess I was lucky. Didn't change the stem. I took it to a bike shop and told them I wanted a hybrid or MTB style handle bar. I didn't pick it out, the guy did. And it worked. I haven't had any shaking or shimmying problems, and I do try to ride it as fast as it will go, but in Florida it's not like there a ton of descents. I'm from Philly originally. Where did you live in PA?
Lots of scenic riding up that way but lots of hills and rock strewn roads as well.
I spent time in Philly in Port Richmond as a kid but never lived there full time.
I've lived in a few areas in PA back in the day, my location was always work related back then.
The shimmy or handle bar shake was likely induced by the lack of trail and lack of weight on the front wheel. That one time was the only time I got any sort of shake out of it, the first thing I did was check the headset but all was fine there. (A loose headset or play in any front end bearings can cause bar shake). Its more common on motor cycles. The bike was a 25.5" model so the frame has lots of flex. My 23,5" SC may have been the better choice but I wanted to keep that bike all original as I was still riding that one in its original configuration.
There are a few things that can cause 'death wobble' and the SC with upright bars hit on several of them. All of this combined with my size made it even worse.
A buddy tried it down that same hill and had no issues after watching what happened to me, but he's 100 lbs lighter than me.
07-03-20, 01:54 PM
#81
Senior Member
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07-04-20, 04:45 AM
#82
Senior Member
I was in the north east near Tunkhannock, and I had relatives who had a place years ago at Harvey's Lake.
Lots of scenic riding up that way but lots of hills and rock strewn roads as well.
I spent time in Philly in Port Richmond as a kid but never lived there full time.
I've lived in a few areas in PA back in the day, my location was always work related back then.
The shimmy or handle bar shake was likely induced by the lack of trail and lack of weight on the front wheel. That one time was the only time I got any sort of shake out of it, the first thing I did was check the headset but all was fine there. (A loose headset or play in any front end bearings can cause bar shake). Its more common on motor cycles. The bike was a 25.5" model so the frame has lots of flex. My 23,5" SC may have been the better choice but I wanted to keep that bike all original as I was still riding that one in its original configuration.
There are a few things that can cause 'death wobble' and the SC with upright bars hit on several of them. All of this combined with my size made it even worse.
A buddy tried it down that same hill and had no issues after watching what happened to me, but he's 100 lbs lighter than me.
Lots of scenic riding up that way but lots of hills and rock strewn roads as well.
I spent time in Philly in Port Richmond as a kid but never lived there full time.
I've lived in a few areas in PA back in the day, my location was always work related back then.
The shimmy or handle bar shake was likely induced by the lack of trail and lack of weight on the front wheel. That one time was the only time I got any sort of shake out of it, the first thing I did was check the headset but all was fine there. (A loose headset or play in any front end bearings can cause bar shake). Its more common on motor cycles. The bike was a 25.5" model so the frame has lots of flex. My 23,5" SC may have been the better choice but I wanted to keep that bike all original as I was still riding that one in its original configuration.
There are a few things that can cause 'death wobble' and the SC with upright bars hit on several of them. All of this combined with my size made it even worse.
A buddy tried it down that same hill and had no issues after watching what happened to me, but he's 100 lbs lighter than me.
07-04-20, 07:28 AM
#83
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I was in the north east near Tunkhannock, and I had relatives who had a place years ago at Harvey's Lake.
Lots of scenic riding up that way but lots of hills and rock strewn roads as well.
I spent time in Philly in Port Richmond as a kid but never lived there full time.
I've lived in a few areas in PA back in the day, my location was always work related back then.
The shimmy or handle bar shake was likely induced by the lack of trail and lack of weight on the front wheel. That one time was the only time I got any sort of shake out of it, the first thing I did was check the headset but all was fine there. (A loose headset or play in any front end bearings can cause bar shake). Its more common on motor cycles. The bike was a 25.5" model so the frame has lots of flex. My 23,5" SC may have been the better choice but I wanted to keep that bike all original as I was still riding that one in its original configuration.
There are a few things that can cause 'death wobble' and the SC with upright bars hit on several of them. All of this combined with my size made it even worse.
A buddy tried it down that same hill and had no issues after watching what happened to me, but he's 100 lbs lighter than me.
Lots of scenic riding up that way but lots of hills and rock strewn roads as well.
I spent time in Philly in Port Richmond as a kid but never lived there full time.
I've lived in a few areas in PA back in the day, my location was always work related back then.
The shimmy or handle bar shake was likely induced by the lack of trail and lack of weight on the front wheel. That one time was the only time I got any sort of shake out of it, the first thing I did was check the headset but all was fine there. (A loose headset or play in any front end bearings can cause bar shake). Its more common on motor cycles. The bike was a 25.5" model so the frame has lots of flex. My 23,5" SC may have been the better choice but I wanted to keep that bike all original as I was still riding that one in its original configuration.
There are a few things that can cause 'death wobble' and the SC with upright bars hit on several of them. All of this combined with my size made it even worse.
A buddy tried it down that same hill and had no issues after watching what happened to me, but he's 100 lbs lighter than me.
07-04-20, 11:10 AM
#84
Senior Member
Kind of a sleeper in the late 70's was the Super Grand Prix. Alloy wheels, bar end shifters, and some nice paint options.
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07-06-20, 01:39 AM
#85
Full Member
If the bike had a frame issue I'd have had the same issues with it in stock form. The death wobble only reared its head with the north road type bars and upright riding position.
07-06-20, 05:33 AM
#86
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I have a 73 SuperCourse, 74 Grand Prix, 76 Grand Prix, 77 SuperCourse, 78 SuperCourse, 83 RRA(English market).
The 73 is a upright dingle speed 23.5"
The 74 is a drop bar single speed 23.5"
The 76 is just a frame and fork 21.5"
The 77 is just a frame and fork 23.5"
The 78 is built with Shimano arabesque and rides great. 23.5"
The RRA is mostly original, V derailleurs changed to Cyclone 23.5
If I had to choose one it would be the 73 and build it with the arabesque.
As it is will probably sell the 76, 77, and maybe the RRA
My 78 SuperCourse after repaint and build with Shimano 600 Arabesque.
The 73 is a upright dingle speed 23.5"
The 74 is a drop bar single speed 23.5"
The 76 is just a frame and fork 21.5"
The 77 is just a frame and fork 23.5"
The 78 is built with Shimano arabesque and rides great. 23.5"
The RRA is mostly original, V derailleurs changed to Cyclone 23.5
If I had to choose one it would be the 73 and build it with the arabesque.
As it is will probably sell the 76, 77, and maybe the RRA
My 78 SuperCourse after repaint and build with Shimano 600 Arabesque.
Last edited by bwilli88; 07-07-20 at 12:01 AM.
07-06-20, 09:47 AM
#87
Full Member
https://raleigh-sb4059.com/2015/11/0...3-sb7657-1985/
but good luck finding one!
07-06-20, 11:21 AM
#88
Junior Member
07-06-20, 12:50 PM
#90
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Perhaps an SBDU randonneur
https://raleigh-sb4059.com/2015/11/0...3-sb7657-1985/
but good luck finding one!
https://raleigh-sb4059.com/2015/11/0...3-sb7657-1985/
but good luck finding one!
I feel badly for that guy.OCD can kill you if you let it. 
07-06-20, 07:16 PM
#91
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Why a Raleigh.
Buy the best you can afford.
Two things determined why I bought my Raleigh.
1/ The first race (style) bike I ever rode was a Raleigh
2/ I'm English
I have a original purple 71 Competition. I bought frame and fork only, then built it up with Nuovo Record gears, Record Hubs with Mavic Module E rims, Weinmann centre pulls and Brook saddle.
Its all the best I could afford and was right for the frame and what was easily available at the time.
Every time I ride it I see the roads I rode from years ago and it makes me happy.
I hope your choice give you the same pleasure.
Buy the best you can afford.
Two things determined why I bought my Raleigh.
1/ The first race (style) bike I ever rode was a Raleigh
2/ I'm English
I have a original purple 71 Competition. I bought frame and fork only, then built it up with Nuovo Record gears, Record Hubs with Mavic Module E rims, Weinmann centre pulls and Brook saddle.
Its all the best I could afford and was right for the frame and what was easily available at the time.
Every time I ride it I see the roads I rode from years ago and it makes me happy.
I hope your choice give you the same pleasure.
07-06-20, 08:55 PM
#92
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Perhaps an SBDU randonneur https://raleigh-sb4059.com/2015/11/0...3-sb7657-1985/ but good luck finding one!
Can't say that SB7657 tickles my fancy, or the idea of a touring bike that can barely take a 28C - but SB8200 is close to what I was envisioning.
Two corrections;
1. Competition was above the Gran(d) Sport(s).
2. Gran(d) Sport(s) - I've got a Gran Sport, a Grand Sport, and a Grand Sports (all made in the same year!). Heck, I've even got a Grander Sportier...
1. Competition was above the Gran(d) Sport(s).
2. Gran(d) Sport(s) - I've got a Gran Sport, a Grand Sport, and a Grand Sports (all made in the same year!). Heck, I've even got a Grander Sportier...
2. Yep. Knew about it, forgot the S. Wonder what the rationale was for that one... "Hey, that Seaton guy just screwed up the decals again." "Well, just remove the D and the S and we'll call it good."
-Kurt
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Last edited by cudak888; 07-11-20 at 07:11 PM.
02-14-21, 08:38 AM
#94
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Clearly, as far as aesthetics goes, it's either the lavender Competition or the black Competition GS.
The OP is long gone but I'm actually a big fan of the Campy NGS group from that era, so the Competition GS with that group + three-arm NGS crank is a winner.
The OP is long gone but I'm actually a big fan of the Campy NGS group from that era, so the Competition GS with that group + three-arm NGS crank is a winner.
