Brake cable rear: Tern A7
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 7
Bikes: Tern A7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Brake cable rear: Tern A7
Hi people: The rear brake cable on my Tern A7 needs replaced. I noticed today that it is snapped off right at the screw so there is nothing to grab when I tried to tighten it today. I’ve been diddling around on the internet trying to figure out what to buy with no definitive answer. Some sites say the cables are interchangeable, others say something else. Also, once I get the cable, can I slide it into the old housing? I’m new at all this but really enjoy the bike. Especially since I can drag it inside at work and nobody screams.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,694
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 834 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
247 Posts
Brake cables are standardized. Basically any brake cable you get will fit. There will be 2 different ends on the replacement cable to match 2 standards for the ends. You cut off the one that you do not need and use the rest. Best, find a video that shows how to replace the cable. You cut off the excess length of the cable after you put it in, leaving a bit of excess for any adjustments. There is a cable tension adjustment barrel by the brake lever that you screw in before putting the cable in. Cutting of the cable needs to be clean to prevent fraying.
There are different considerations concerning the quality of the replacement cable you need to get. Since you will surely mistreat the cable on your first try, you might want to get a cheap cable. On the other hand, the rear cable is long and takes a tangle route on a folder which calls for a quality cable. People who work on their bikes usually keep a stock of brake and shift cables as it is necessary to replace them every once in a while.
There are different considerations concerning the quality of the replacement cable you need to get. Since you will surely mistreat the cable on your first try, you might want to get a cheap cable. On the other hand, the rear cable is long and takes a tangle route on a folder which calls for a quality cable. People who work on their bikes usually keep a stock of brake and shift cables as it is necessary to replace them every once in a while.
Likes For 2_i:
#3
Junior Member
Taking advantage of the replacement, why not upgrade all cables and housing? There are this king of kit available on market. All you need, cables, housing, caps... are put into one package.
Some even offer you greased housing, which makes the cable movements significantly smoothier.
The operation is not difficult at all. I believe you will manage to do it.
Some even offer you greased housing, which makes the cable movements significantly smoothier.
The operation is not difficult at all. I believe you will manage to do it.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 7
Bikes: Tern A7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ferrule
I bought a Shimano kit and Pedro brand of clippers. I ended up using the old brake cable housing because I could not figure out for the life of me how to attach the ferrule to the housing within just smashing hell out of it with pliers. How Is it done?
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,694
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 834 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
247 Posts
Ferrules come in 2 sizes, meant for 4mm and 5mm outer diameter housing. Are you, by any chance pushing 4mm onto 5mm? Otherwise, it is common for thoughtful, gentle and delicate to beat brutal, no tools required . Make sure there is no fraying to the outside in the plastic on the cable. If there is, cut it off. Gently slip on the ferrule, twisting around if necessary. Using the old housing, you should be fine too.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 7
Bikes: Tern A7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is it ok if the ferrule can move a bit on the new housing? It’s not tight at all. The original housing has a built-on ferrule at both ends.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,694
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 834 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
247 Posts
Yes, the ferrule can be outright loose on the cable. The tension in the cable will push the ferrule snug with the end of the cable housing. You just do not want the ferrule slip off completely from a housing end and then get stuck when the cable tensions. However, this rather might occur with a shift than brake cable - the brake cables tend to be always under some tension.
Likes For 2_i: