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Old 05-08-20, 04:19 AM
  #26  
masi61
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Originally Posted by SethAZ
Possibly dumb question, but has the chain been lubed recently? If a link is stiff perhaps a drop of lube on its pins would resolve at least that part of it.

As for the chain touching the outer ring teeth when it's in the middle ring but the smallest cog, perhaps that's just a cross-chaining that can't be expected to work, and the solution is just to shift up to the big ring (and down in the rear) before you make it to the smallest cog while in the center ring? I haven't ridden a triple in decades, so I have no idea if all combinations of rings/cogs are meant to be usable.
+1 on checking for stiff links.

With that said, I’m curious for the OP to try the 10 speed chain and report back his results. I have a 3x9 drivetrain on my main road bike with an Ultegra 6603 “10 speed” chainrings. I’ve got over 16,000 miles on this combo and over the years have changed my chain about every 3,000 miles due to wear. Currently I use a 2 chain waxed system where I am using the quick link to switch in a freshly waxed chain about every 200 miles of riding.

But this thread is very timely because more and more, I have been annoyed by chain noise from my 9 speed chains and the 10 speed chainrings. Interestingly too, like you I have more noise in the 39 tooth middle ring. I actually completely wore out my 39 tooth middle ring which led to a near catastrophic mismatch with a new chain. I initially blamed the Taya chain but came to find out just how worn the gullets were on that 39 tooth chainring.

So if the 10 speed chain plays well with the rear 9 speed cassette I’m thinking this may be your best option too. Please OP, keep us up to date on how it turns out.

I have said for a while now that Shimano needs to keep a triple road group with the old road chainring sizes of 30/39/52. They have the Tiagra in a triple I believe still but it is more of the “trekking” ratios. I like the idea of doing proper pace line riding with my road triple. It would also be nice to see if a 3rd party such as Wolf Tooth, Salsa, Specialities TA, or Wick Works would develop a Shimano compatible matched triple chainring set in the 30/39/52 (or 53) combo that has some of the correct ramps and pins to speed shifting. I think if triple road crank users come out in big enough numbers to apply some pressure to one of these companies, just maybe they will do a small production run on what we need.

I was was fortunate to have found a NOS Dura Ace 7803 triple ring set to freshen the chainrings on a used Dura Ace 7803 triple crank that I bought on eBay. I was going to stockpile them and continue riding the used rings, but decided to mount and ride them ride away due to similar issues to what the OP is reporting. In my case I don’t have a single link hanging up. Instead it is various “sloshy” sounds heard while gnashing away up medium and steep inclines in my 39 or 30 tooth chainrings.

Last edited by masi61; 05-08-20 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 05-08-20, 04:55 PM
  #27  
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Update:

I think my problem is finally solved. Thanks a lot everyone it is amazing how much experience you all have and how generous you are with your time and and advice. I love this community and honestly couldn't have done this project without you guys!

So I finally got a chance to try my 10 speed chain idea. The new chain sat perfectly and I was able to decrease the chain rub down to just the smallest sprocket on the cassette in combination with the middle ring. I went out for a ride and didn't have a single episode of that transient 'click/ disconnected from drive-train feeling'. I listened to the drivetrain for the first half of my ride and no weird noises but I admittedly quickly got back to my music.

So conclusion: my problem was two fold. One is I probably damaged several links on my previous chain as I could hear noises tell that specific links weren't playing well with the sprockets/ chainrings. Two is that I was getting a sever chain-rub issue when cross-chained in the middle ring . It is likely a combination of drive line and the 10 speed spacing at the front. The 10 speed chain helped aleviate both issues.

Caution to other people: Before I moved from 9 speed to 10 speed I kind of felt that the chain rub with the 2nd to smallest sprocket was marginal. The difference in width between a 10 speed and 9 speed chain is minimal at just 0.8 mm. That means that it will give you increased clearance of JUST 0.4 mm..... so If your chain rub is prominent you may not get the same result as I did. In my case, it was super bad in the smallest sprocket and just gentle rubbing in the second so now I minimized my issue to the smallest sprocket which for me is a combination I am willing to avoid!

So again. 10 speed chain worked well. Shifting at the rear is surprisingly fast and responsive without issues. In my case it was the simplest way to improve my problems especially since I identified that my chain was damaged and needed replacing anyway. For people who run into this in the future there were other potential solutions suggested that are worthy of consideration such as the use of spacers, different BB length, and new chainrings without wear etc. Each person may need to weigh the benefits/ disadvantages/ costs of each of those and decide what to go for.

I should be able to ride a lot more this weekend once the rain stops. If my experience changes I will make sure to update this thread so that people who run into this issue in the future can know.
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Old 05-08-20, 04:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by masi61
+1 on checking for stiff links.

With that said, I’m curious for the OP to try the 10 speed chain and report back his results. I have a 3x9 drivetrain on my main road bike with an Ultegra 6603 “10 speed” chainrings. I’ve got over 16,000 miles on this combo and over the years have changed my chain about every 3,000 miles due to wear. Currently I use a 2 chain waxed system where I am using the quick link to switch in a freshly waxed chain about every 200 miles of riding.

But this thread is very timely because more and more, I have been annoyed by chain noise from my 9 speed chains and the 10 speed chainrings. Interestingly too, like you I have more noise in the 39 tooth middle ring. I actually completely wore out my 39 tooth middle ring which led to a near catastrophic mismatch with a new chain. I initially blamed the Taya chain but came to find out just how worn the gullets were on that 39 tooth chainring.

So if the 10 speed chain plays well with the rear 9 speed cassette I’m thinking this may be your best option too. Please OP, keep us up to date on how it turns out.

I have said for a while now that Shimano needs to keep a triple road group with the old road chainring sizes of 30/39/52. They have the Tiagra in a triple I believe still but it is more of the “trekking” ratios. I like the idea of doing proper pace line riding with my road triple. It would also be nice to see if a 3rd party such as Wolf Tooth, Salsa, Specialities TA, or Wick Works would develop a Shimano compatible matched triple chainring set in the 30/39/52 (or 53) combo that has some of the correct ramps and pins to speed shifting. I think if triple road crank users come out in big enough numbers to apply some pressure to one of these companies, just maybe they will do a small production run on what we need.

I was was fortunate to have found a NOS Dura Ace 7803 triple ring set to freshen the chainrings on a used Dura Ace 7803 triple crank that I bought on eBay. I was going to stockpile them and continue riding the used rings, but decided to mount and ride them ride away due to similar issues to what the OP is reporting. In my case I don’t have a single link hanging up. Instead it is various “sloshy” sounds heard while gnashing away up medium and steep inclines in my 39 or 30 tooth chainrings.
10 speed worked well. Shifting at the rear was very smooth and no issues whatsoever. I was using a 12-23 cassette for the first time and it bothered the hell out of me how much shifting I had to do in a terrain where I am constantly accelerating / decelerating. But the shifts themselves where seem-less ( at least at the rear). Shifting at the front wasn't as great. Going from the small ring to the middle ring needed me to keep going into my trim position which is annoying but this may be more of an indexing issue than anything else. So yeah 10 speed chain may be worth a try if you have to change chains anyway. But word of caution is as I wrote in my above post, the 10 speed chain will only provide 0.4 mm more clearance than the 9 speed. So may alleviate issues but is not a magic solution. Good luck with your issue. Feel free to update this thread with the result if you do try it so that anyone who has similar issues can find more experience about the results form the switch...
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