Ridea HT1 Lightweight track hubs
10-16-20, 02:54 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ridea HT1 Lightweight track hubs
Haven't seen much on these and thought some others might be interested.
I've been dying to replace my old wheels with something a little more modern (read wider) and also lose some rotational weight in the process. the latter will be quite easy to achieve as I still run a set of way-stronger-than-my-skinny-ass-will-ever-need 36/36h Formula/Deep V's on the bike from when I first built it back in 2012. Having a larger budget doesn't hurt either so I started hunting for something a little nicer.
For whatever reason, I just don't like low flange hubs nor did I want anything too heavy. This didn't leave many options for the specs I was looking for (black hubs in either 24/28h or 28/28h drillings). I considered Mack Hubs but didn't want to spend quite that much but would if I had to so I could get what I wanted on the bike. Mack's wait time (while reasonable) was a small deterrent but ultimately was not a huge influence on the purchase.
While clicking my way around the web I stumbled on the Ridea HT1 hub set. I found them intriguing given the decent price ($200-ish per set) and rather low claimed weight (390g/set including lockring). I looked around a bit more and while I wasn't able to find much, I did come across one guy who laced up a set and spoke highly of them. Even though the positive experience I found was a tragically small sample size I decided to roll the dice and give them a go. I didn't expect them to be quite as light as they claimed (not many parts are), but even a 10% variance would see them weigh in on the very light end for a set of high flange hubs and super close to, or possibly even lighter (!) than the more expensive (and admittedly higher quality) Mack hubs. Finding a good deal on the Ridea hubs made the choice a bit easier as well.
Also of note, albeit a small one, the provided lockring, should you choose to use it, works with the BBT-19.2 tool. The threading is standard 1.29" x 24 tpi so you can use your Dura Ace ring (or whatever) if you prefer. I included photos of the weights with both the Ridea lockring and a DA version (spoiler alert: its not much) for those that would opt to go that route.
On to the photos!
Front hub weight
Rear hub weight (w/o supplied lockring)
Hub set weight (the scale did roll over to 398g just after I snapped this)
Set weight w/Ridea lockring
Set weight w/Dura Ace lockring
Pretty impressive in my opinion. Only 8g (+ 2.05%) over their claimed weight w/o lockring and only 19g (+ 4.87%) over with it.
Planning to build these up with a pair of Easton R90 SL Disc rims. Estimated weight for the new set should be something in the 1600-1700g range. That should see me drop somewhere around 600g from my current set. Psyched.
I will update the thread after I get them built up, which will be reasonably soon. In the meantime, I am happy to answer questions if anyone happens to have them.
I've been dying to replace my old wheels with something a little more modern (read wider) and also lose some rotational weight in the process. the latter will be quite easy to achieve as I still run a set of way-stronger-than-my-skinny-ass-will-ever-need 36/36h Formula/Deep V's on the bike from when I first built it back in 2012. Having a larger budget doesn't hurt either so I started hunting for something a little nicer.
For whatever reason, I just don't like low flange hubs nor did I want anything too heavy. This didn't leave many options for the specs I was looking for (black hubs in either 24/28h or 28/28h drillings). I considered Mack Hubs but didn't want to spend quite that much but would if I had to so I could get what I wanted on the bike. Mack's wait time (while reasonable) was a small deterrent but ultimately was not a huge influence on the purchase.
While clicking my way around the web I stumbled on the Ridea HT1 hub set. I found them intriguing given the decent price ($200-ish per set) and rather low claimed weight (390g/set including lockring). I looked around a bit more and while I wasn't able to find much, I did come across one guy who laced up a set and spoke highly of them. Even though the positive experience I found was a tragically small sample size I decided to roll the dice and give them a go. I didn't expect them to be quite as light as they claimed (not many parts are), but even a 10% variance would see them weigh in on the very light end for a set of high flange hubs and super close to, or possibly even lighter (!) than the more expensive (and admittedly higher quality) Mack hubs. Finding a good deal on the Ridea hubs made the choice a bit easier as well.
Also of note, albeit a small one, the provided lockring, should you choose to use it, works with the BBT-19.2 tool. The threading is standard 1.29" x 24 tpi so you can use your Dura Ace ring (or whatever) if you prefer. I included photos of the weights with both the Ridea lockring and a DA version (spoiler alert: its not much) for those that would opt to go that route.
On to the photos!
Front hub weight
Rear hub weight (w/o supplied lockring)
Hub set weight (the scale did roll over to 398g just after I snapped this)
Set weight w/Ridea lockring
Set weight w/Dura Ace lockring
Pretty impressive in my opinion. Only 8g (+ 2.05%) over their claimed weight w/o lockring and only 19g (+ 4.87%) over with it.
Planning to build these up with a pair of Easton R90 SL Disc rims. Estimated weight for the new set should be something in the 1600-1700g range. That should see me drop somewhere around 600g from my current set. Psyched.
I will update the thread after I get them built up, which will be reasonably soon. In the meantime, I am happy to answer questions if anyone happens to have them.
10-16-20, 10:48 PM
#2
Your cog is slipping.
Not to rain on your parade, but those are just cheap Chinese "track" hubs that can be purchased on Alibaba unbranded or with custom branding.
Also...rims, spokes and tires factor much more into rotational weight than hubs. Think about it.
Also...rims, spokes and tires factor much more into rotational weight than hubs. Think about it.
10-17-20, 11:19 AM
#3
Clark W. Griswold
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Obviously you not ride with great idea. If you have ride with great idea you not need for to have others unless. When great idea ride is have you can many for the soul but not with bad idea or idea not for them.
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10-18-20, 09:13 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
While I do appreciate you taking me for an uneducated moron, that isn't the reality we share. I actually do have an understanding of physics and more than a basic one. In fact, despite the post being centered on the hubs, I never bothered to imply that reducing hub weight reduces rotational weight. Although, a reduction will still have at least a fractional impact given its relatively worthless position in relation to a wheels moment of inertia.
Also, had you taken time to read closer (and focus less on your usual snarky comment) you would have clearly taken note of the mention of both my current wheels and the intended rim choice on the new set. One would think that would equip you well enough to deploy the power of deductive reasoning. Had you found the time to do that, you would have easily seen (especially given your knowledge) that even with all things being equal the change in rims alone will equate to a substantial difference in the most important area of a given wheels rotational weight.
Now, just to be clear, while my post clearly focused on the hubs and their respective weight (the overall goal), the comment with regards to a drop in rotational weight was right at the open and immediately followed a mention of a changing to modern, wider wheels (read rims). Again, more useful information. Continuing that theme, I closed by mentioning the total expected weight loss versus my current set which is, again, more useful information. All the pieces to the "this guy isn't clueless" puzzle were there for you.
Hopefully you'll read a little more closely next time.
Regardless of that, I have always appreciated your input on the forum (long-time lurker) and am super grateful your shop lives on. In fact, I've ordered a few things from you recently. Cheers.
Lmao. I'm not selling anything. I couldn't care less what people here do with their money. What I do care about is contributing to accessible information.
Enthusiast communities like this get built because random people take the time to gather information and put it out there for others to make use of at their discretion. I was merely attempting to do that for betterment of the community as a whole. Besides, nobody needs to be interested right now. Someone might be at some point and the may just find their way here because of it.
Lastly, and as a very general statement, some info and conversation on any product is better than a total lack of it. After all, knowledge is power.
Is that bad?
My current Formula hubs have been on the bike for 8 years without issue in any and all conditions. I should be in decent shape if these are effectively a bolt on version of Formula's, and lighter to boot. Sounds cool to me, man.
10-18-20, 10:02 PM
#7
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I'd take track nuts over allen bolts any day. but maybe that's just me.
weight weenie threads. 
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10-19-20, 08:57 AM
#9
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It's not just you. Anyone who's raced on the track knows what happens when you don't sufficiently tighten the rear wheel on the drive side.
10-19-20, 09:48 AM
#10
Your cog is slipping.
You aren't raining on my parade as I didn't show up here with one. I also didn't, at any point, proclaim the hubs to be of outrageous quality. I didn't, for a moment, compare them to the other option I had been considering which is obviously a much nicer offering. I also full-on said I bought them because I scored a deal on them. Anyway, if you wouldn't mind, please do link me to a set on Alibaba. Clearly not looking to buy but wouldn't mind seeing what a similar set goes for on there.
While I do appreciate you taking me for an uneducated moron, that isn't the reality we share. I actually do have an understanding of physics and more than a basic one. In fact, despite the post being centered on the hubs, I never bothered to imply that reducing hub weight reduces rotational weight. Although, a reduction will still have at least a fractional impact given its relatively worthless position in relation to a wheels moment of inertia.
Also, had you taken time to read closer (and focus less on your usual snarky comment) you would have clearly taken note of the mention of both my current wheels and the intended rim choice on the new set. One would think that would equip you well enough to deploy the power of deductive reasoning. Had you found the time to do that, you would have easily seen (especially given your knowledge) that even with all things being equal the change in rims alone will equate to a substantial difference in the most important area of a given wheels rotational weight.
Now, just to be clear, while my post clearly focused on the hubs and their respective weight (the overall goal), the comment with regards to a drop in rotational weight was right at the open and immediately followed a mention of a changing to modern, wider wheels (read rims). Again, more useful information. Continuing that theme, I closed by mentioning the total expected weight loss versus my current set which is, again, more useful information. All the pieces to the "this guy isn't clueless" puzzle were there for you.
Hopefully you'll read a little more closely next time.
Regardless of that, I have always appreciated your input on the forum (long-time lurker) and am super grateful your shop lives on. In fact, I've ordered a few things from you recently. Cheers.
While I do appreciate you taking me for an uneducated moron, that isn't the reality we share. I actually do have an understanding of physics and more than a basic one. In fact, despite the post being centered on the hubs, I never bothered to imply that reducing hub weight reduces rotational weight. Although, a reduction will still have at least a fractional impact given its relatively worthless position in relation to a wheels moment of inertia.
Also, had you taken time to read closer (and focus less on your usual snarky comment) you would have clearly taken note of the mention of both my current wheels and the intended rim choice on the new set. One would think that would equip you well enough to deploy the power of deductive reasoning. Had you found the time to do that, you would have easily seen (especially given your knowledge) that even with all things being equal the change in rims alone will equate to a substantial difference in the most important area of a given wheels rotational weight.
Now, just to be clear, while my post clearly focused on the hubs and their respective weight (the overall goal), the comment with regards to a drop in rotational weight was right at the open and immediately followed a mention of a changing to modern, wider wheels (read rims). Again, more useful information. Continuing that theme, I closed by mentioning the total expected weight loss versus my current set which is, again, more useful information. All the pieces to the "this guy isn't clueless" puzzle were there for you.
Hopefully you'll read a little more closely next time.
Regardless of that, I have always appreciated your input on the forum (long-time lurker) and am super grateful your shop lives on. In fact, I've ordered a few things from you recently. Cheers.
10-19-20, 09:59 AM
#11
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Another track nut fan. I don't qualify for the hub discussion here. All my fix gear hubs are Miche, both single sided and flip-flop (both fixed) at whatever weight Miches are and whatever flange height they happened to be. No sexy lightening holes (the webs between I broke twice with Campy NR track hubs). Correction, I am still running a Campy Tipo front hub, very high flange with its circular cutouts with a ridiculous number of miles on it. Never heard of one of those flanges breaking. Not a light hub either!
The day will come when I lace either my nicest existing hubs or new to <400 gram tubular rims and mount <300 gram tubulars. 32 spoke DT Revolutions or equiv. Fun wheels!
Re: those track nuts - I remove and replace the rear wheel all the time. Yesterday to put the appropriate cog on for a 50 mile out and back on a windy day, then on the MUP I flipped the wheel to a cog one tooth bigger to wind down the last two miles. I use the Pedros Trixie or peanut butter wrenches with handles wrapped with inner tube. Makes getting the nut snug easy, even when light-headed or very tired (tops of mountain climbs or late in rides). I have one Allen bolted front wheel. For that bike the Allen hub makes getting the wheel in and out of a very stiff LowRider rack far easier than a QR but I have no desire to go Allen bolt hub anywhere else and certainly not in back. If I were given an Allen bolted rear hub, I"d do my best to see if I could swap the axle out to longer and nutted.
Ben
Edit: spelling
The day will come when I lace either my nicest existing hubs or new to <400 gram tubular rims and mount <300 gram tubulars. 32 spoke DT Revolutions or equiv. Fun wheels!
Re: those track nuts - I remove and replace the rear wheel all the time. Yesterday to put the appropriate cog on for a 50 mile out and back on a windy day, then on the MUP I flipped the wheel to a cog one tooth bigger to wind down the last two miles. I use the Pedros Trixie or peanut butter wrenches with handles wrapped with inner tube. Makes getting the nut snug easy, even when light-headed or very tired (tops of mountain climbs or late in rides). I have one Allen bolted front wheel. For that bike the Allen hub makes getting the wheel in and out of a very stiff LowRider rack far easier than a QR but I have no desire to go Allen bolt hub anywhere else and certainly not in back. If I were given an Allen bolted rear hub, I"d do my best to see if I could swap the axle out to longer and nutted.
Ben
Edit: spelling
10-19-20, 01:21 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Another track nut fan. I don't qualify for the hub discussion here. All my fix gear hubs are Miche, both single sided and flip-flop (both fixed) at whatever weight Miches are and whatever flange height they happened to be. No sexy lightening holes (the webs between I broke twice with Campy NR track hubs). Correction, I am still running a Campy Tipo front hub, very high flange with its circular cutouts with a ridiculous number of miles on it. Never heard of one of those flanges breaking. Not a light hub either!
The day will come when I lace either my nicest existing hubs or new to <400 gram tubular rims and mount <300 gram tubulars. 32 spoke DT Revolutions or equiv. Fun wheels!
Re: those track nuts - I remove and replace the rear wheel all the time. Yesterday to put the appropriate cog on for a 50 mile out and back on a windy day, then on the MUP I flipped the wheel to a cog one tooth bigger to wind down the last two miles. I use the Pedros Trixie or peanut butter wrenches with handles wrapped with inner tube. Makes getting the nut snug easy, even when light-headed or very tired (tops of mountain climbs or late in rides). I have one Allen bolted front wheel. For that bike the Allen hub makes getting the wheel in and out of a very stiff LowRider rack far easier than a QR but I have no desire to go Allen bolt hub anywhere else and certainly not in back. If I were given an Allen bolted rear hub, I"d do my best to see if I could swap the axle out to longer and nutted.
Ben
Edit: spelling
The day will come when I lace either my nicest existing hubs or new to <400 gram tubular rims and mount <300 gram tubulars. 32 spoke DT Revolutions or equiv. Fun wheels!
Re: those track nuts - I remove and replace the rear wheel all the time. Yesterday to put the appropriate cog on for a 50 mile out and back on a windy day, then on the MUP I flipped the wheel to a cog one tooth bigger to wind down the last two miles. I use the Pedros Trixie or peanut butter wrenches with handles wrapped with inner tube. Makes getting the nut snug easy, even when light-headed or very tired (tops of mountain climbs or late in rides). I have one Allen bolted front wheel. For that bike the Allen hub makes getting the wheel in and out of a very stiff LowRider rack far easier than a QR but I have no desire to go Allen bolt hub anywhere else and certainly not in back. If I were given an Allen bolted rear hub, I"d do my best to see if I could swap the axle out to longer and nutted.
Ben
Edit: spelling
As I said above, no issue with track nuts. I am just open to trying something new. Maybe I will hate them, maybe I won't? Time will tell and I'll report back when my verdict is in.
I've seen your "ready for damn near everything" setup. While I salute your preparedness, that isn't quite for me.
"When the debate is lost, slander becomes the tool of the loser."
10-19-20, 01:28 PM
#14
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Well, for all of us outside the OP, it's not a re branded Formula, but comes out from the same country; maybe they'll be as good as Formulas ( for recreational and commuting purposes; wouldn't go anywhere close to serious or even amateur without nutted hubs).
For the OP, good luck on your build, hope you'll enjoy your build and, please keep us posted as how it works out for you, as I'm always on the lookout for value products.
For the OP, good luck on your build, hope you'll enjoy your build and, please keep us posted as how it works out for you, as I'm always on the lookout for value products.
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10-19-20, 02:07 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well, for all of us outside the OP, it's not a re branded Formula, but comes out from the same country; maybe they'll be as good as Formulas ( for recreational and commuting purposes; wouldn't go anywhere close to serious or even amateur without nutted hubs).
For the OP, good luck on your build, hope you'll enjoy your build and, please keep us posted as how it works out for you, as I'm always on the lookout for value products.
For the OP, good luck on your build, hope you'll enjoy your build and, please keep us posted as how it works out for you, as I'm always on the lookout for value products.
I will definitely update things once the wheels are rolling and thanks for the kind words
10-19-20, 02:09 PM
#16
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10-19-20, 08:41 PM
#18
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Haven't seen much on these and thought some others might be interested.
I've been dying to replace my old wheels with something a little more modern (read wider) and also lose some rotational weight in the process. the latter will be quite easy to achieve as I still run a set of way-stronger-than-my-skinny-ass-will-ever-need 36/36h Formula/Deep V's on the bike from when I first built it back in 2012. Having a larger budget doesn't hurt either so I started hunting for something a little nicer.
For whatever reason, I just don't like low flange hubs nor did I want anything too heavy. This didn't leave many options for the specs I was looking for (black hubs in either 24/28h or 28/28h drillings). I considered Mack Hubs but didn't want to spend quite that much but would if I had to so I could get what I wanted on the bike. Mack's wait time (while reasonable) was a small deterrent but ultimately was not a huge influence on the purchase.
While clicking my way around the web I stumbled on the Ridea HT1 hub set. I found them intriguing given the decent price ($200-ish per set) and rather low claimed weight (390g/set including lockring). I looked around a bit more and while I wasn't able to find much, I did come across one guy who laced up a set and spoke highly of them. Even though the positive experience I found was a tragically small sample size I decided to roll the dice and give them a go. I didn't expect them to be quite as light as they claimed (not many parts are), but even a 10% variance would see them weigh in on the very light end for a set of high flange hubs and super close to, or possibly even lighter (!) than the more expensive (and admittedly higher quality) Mack hubs. Finding a good deal on the Ridea hubs made the choice a bit easier as well.
Also of note, albeit a small one, the provided lockring, should you choose to use it, works with the BBT-19.2 tool. The threading is standard 1.29" x 24 tpi so you can use your Dura Ace ring (or whatever) if you prefer. I included photos of the weights with both the Ridea lockring and a DA version (spoiler alert: its not much) for those that would opt to go that route.
On to the photos!
Front hub weight
Rear hub weight (w/o supplied lockring)
Hub set weight (the scale did roll over to 398g just after I snapped this)
Set weight w/Ridea lockring
Set weight w/Dura Ace lockring
Pretty impressive in my opinion. Only 8g (+ 2.05%) over their claimed weight w/o lockring and only 19g (+ 4.87%) over with it.
Planning to build these up with a pair of Easton R90 SL Disc rims. Estimated weight for the new set should be something in the 1600-1700g range. That should see me drop somewhere around 600g from my current set. Psyched.
I will update the thread after I get them built up, which will be reasonably soon. In the meantime, I am happy to answer questions if anyone happens to have them.
I've been dying to replace my old wheels with something a little more modern (read wider) and also lose some rotational weight in the process. the latter will be quite easy to achieve as I still run a set of way-stronger-than-my-skinny-ass-will-ever-need 36/36h Formula/Deep V's on the bike from when I first built it back in 2012. Having a larger budget doesn't hurt either so I started hunting for something a little nicer.
For whatever reason, I just don't like low flange hubs nor did I want anything too heavy. This didn't leave many options for the specs I was looking for (black hubs in either 24/28h or 28/28h drillings). I considered Mack Hubs but didn't want to spend quite that much but would if I had to so I could get what I wanted on the bike. Mack's wait time (while reasonable) was a small deterrent but ultimately was not a huge influence on the purchase.
While clicking my way around the web I stumbled on the Ridea HT1 hub set. I found them intriguing given the decent price ($200-ish per set) and rather low claimed weight (390g/set including lockring). I looked around a bit more and while I wasn't able to find much, I did come across one guy who laced up a set and spoke highly of them. Even though the positive experience I found was a tragically small sample size I decided to roll the dice and give them a go. I didn't expect them to be quite as light as they claimed (not many parts are), but even a 10% variance would see them weigh in on the very light end for a set of high flange hubs and super close to, or possibly even lighter (!) than the more expensive (and admittedly higher quality) Mack hubs. Finding a good deal on the Ridea hubs made the choice a bit easier as well.
Also of note, albeit a small one, the provided lockring, should you choose to use it, works with the BBT-19.2 tool. The threading is standard 1.29" x 24 tpi so you can use your Dura Ace ring (or whatever) if you prefer. I included photos of the weights with both the Ridea lockring and a DA version (spoiler alert: its not much) for those that would opt to go that route.
On to the photos!
Front hub weight
Rear hub weight (w/o supplied lockring)
Hub set weight (the scale did roll over to 398g just after I snapped this)
Set weight w/Ridea lockring
Set weight w/Dura Ace lockring
Pretty impressive in my opinion. Only 8g (+ 2.05%) over their claimed weight w/o lockring and only 19g (+ 4.87%) over with it.
Planning to build these up with a pair of Easton R90 SL Disc rims. Estimated weight for the new set should be something in the 1600-1700g range. That should see me drop somewhere around 600g from my current set. Psyched.
I will update the thread after I get them built up, which will be reasonably soon. In the meantime, I am happy to answer questions if anyone happens to have them.
10-20-20, 08:59 PM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sooo, let’s just do a little recap here:
I take the time to take photos and create a thread to (as I said before) add to accessible information.
You take time to make 3 posts. You insult my intelligence from the onset and proceeded to insult me personally in both of your subsequent posts.
You contribute nothing but I have the personality of a wet sock? Get over yourself. I mean Jesus, can you see anything from that Ivory Tower of yours? I don’t care how you slice it, that’s the behavior of a loser, and a sore one at that. Also a seemingly dim-witted one as a higher level of reading comprehension would’ve allowed to put the pieces of the puzzle together and save your self the trouble.
So, again, 3 posts and your contribution to this point is completely worthless. How about you put your money where your mouth is so you can take your foot out of it. Post that Alibaba link, won’t you? You’ve spent enough time on this thread. How about you actually add something other than your terrible attitude and general inability to comprehend the words on the page in front of you.
I think its also worth mentioning, since you seem to be so set on the country of origin, another user has shown the company to be of Taiwanese origin. Plenty of good things come out of Taiwan. While not from this particular brand, you sell some Taiwanese products on your site as proof of that.
Alibaba does have decent products for sale on its platform the same way Amazon does. They also have a load of rubbish just like Amazon. That just goes to show that the site is less important than the product sold on it. Hell, Novitec hubs are available on Alibaba and I remember how highly you spoke of those in times past. Are those trash now because of the website their sold on? This is also a good time for me to yet again remind you that at no point did I say I picked up the nicest hubs around, just a set I scored a deal on that happens to be what they are represented as by the company.
Lastly, because I think this matters, I have read enough of your posts over the years to be largely unsurprised by your less-than-enthusiastic attitude, and, very honestly, a lot of the time I have no issue with it. Why? Because you do happen to be right a lot of the time. A bit bristly (sometimes worse) in the process but nonetheless right. I rarely take issue with people being right and rude. I'll just shrug it off becuase, well, one could always be nicer but one can't always be right. That is evidenced here in this thread with you.
I'll close this with a few tidbits from a guy much smarter than either of us.
"It is better to change an opinion than to persist in a wrong one."
and
"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have laboured hard for."
That last one is precisely why I took the time to create this thread.
Food for thought, I hope...
I hated my years working in Sales but the devil truly is in the details. I also subscribe heavily to the theory of " if anything is worth doing, its worth doing right". Like, I look at it like this: what would I want to find if I happened to be looking for X? Then I gather that and offer it up for human (or thereabouts) consumption.
10-21-20, 08:38 AM
#20
Your cog is slipping.
It truly amazes me that you've written a candidate for Oprah's Book Club here, yet you're still missing the point.
Novatec hubs are still a great budget option. However, paying nearly 4 times what they cost unbranded because some half-assed fixie company slapped a dumb logo on them is just stupid. Someone as intelligent as you should obviously know better. The cheapo hubs you bought aren't manufactured by Novatec anyway, so that doesn't even matter as much as you seem to think it does.
At any rate, enjoy your new hubs. I hope your new wheels are everything you've ever dreamed of and you get a big raging hard on when you hang your bike on the scale after building them.
Novatec hubs are still a great budget option. However, paying nearly 4 times what they cost unbranded because some half-assed fixie company slapped a dumb logo on them is just stupid. Someone as intelligent as you should obviously know better. The cheapo hubs you bought aren't manufactured by Novatec anyway, so that doesn't even matter as much as you seem to think it does.
At any rate, enjoy your new hubs. I hope your new wheels are everything you've ever dreamed of and you get a big raging hard on when you hang your bike on the scale after building them.
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10-21-20, 09:31 AM
#21
Senior Member
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Hey everybody...
Past Ridea hubs owner and rider here, or at least purported to be by the seller, a UK bike retailer. They were completely unmarked, so who knows? I looked but cannot find any separate pictures of the wheelset they were part of, but if you really care you can see them where they reside now on my son's Steamroller - the one with the big basket next to the tail-end of that long-running superthread.
Let me tell you, those wheels and especially the Ridea hubs were not very expensive yet were really shiny and pretty...but I decided to go in a different direction with my bike that they were on so didn't have much experience riding them. My kid talked me out of them and he has been beating the crap out of them for the past couple years with zero problems. And he is car-free...
IIRC they have pretty much the same flange, but the center cylinder was straight across rather than narrowing towards the middle like the OP's. And they DO have tracknuts. At the time I did the same google machine search and also found that Ridea is part of some kind of large(?) Asian company, then let it go at that. I will say that those hubs must have been pretty light 'cos the wheelset itself actually was, and the rims and spokes on it didn't strike me as being anyhing special.
Enjoy yours OP, and your scale too
Past Ridea hubs owner and rider here, or at least purported to be by the seller, a UK bike retailer. They were completely unmarked, so who knows? I looked but cannot find any separate pictures of the wheelset they were part of, but if you really care you can see them where they reside now on my son's Steamroller - the one with the big basket next to the tail-end of that long-running superthread.
Let me tell you, those wheels and especially the Ridea hubs were not very expensive yet were really shiny and pretty...but I decided to go in a different direction with my bike that they were on so didn't have much experience riding them. My kid talked me out of them and he has been beating the crap out of them for the past couple years with zero problems. And he is car-free...
IIRC they have pretty much the same flange, but the center cylinder was straight across rather than narrowing towards the middle like the OP's. And they DO have tracknuts. At the time I did the same google machine search and also found that Ridea is part of some kind of large(?) Asian company, then let it go at that. I will say that those hubs must have been pretty light 'cos the wheelset itself actually was, and the rims and spokes on it didn't strike me as being anyhing special.
Enjoy yours OP, and your scale too
10-21-20, 06:18 PM
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It truly amazes me that you've written a candidate for Oprah's Book Club here, yet you're still missing the point.
Novatec hubs are still a great budget option. However, paying nearly 4 times what they cost unbranded because some half-assed fixie company slapped a dumb logo on them is just stupid. Someone as intelligent as you should obviously know better. The cheapo hubs you bought aren't manufactured by Novatec anyway, so that doesn't even matter as much as you seem to think it does.
At any rate, enjoy your new hubs. I hope your new wheels are everything you've ever dreamed of and you get a big raging hard on when you hang your bike on the scale after building them.
Novatec hubs are still a great budget option. However, paying nearly 4 times what they cost unbranded because some half-assed fixie company slapped a dumb logo on them is just stupid. Someone as intelligent as you should obviously know better. The cheapo hubs you bought aren't manufactured by Novatec anyway, so that doesn't even matter as much as you seem to think it does.
At any rate, enjoy your new hubs. I hope your new wheels are everything you've ever dreamed of and you get a big raging hard on when you hang your bike on the scale after building them.
Although I do want to say one thing for now, I have only weighed my bike once, 8 years ago. Weight hasn't influenced previous purchases and these new wheels aside, wont in the future. However, lighter wheels than what I have will make life a little nicer on the road.
Hey everybody...
Past Ridea hubs owner and rider here, or at least purported to be by the seller, a UK bike retailer. They were completely unmarked, so who knows? I looked but cannot find any separate pictures of the wheelset they were part of, but if you really care you can see them where they reside now on my son's Steamroller - the one with the big basket next to the tail-end of that long-running superthread.
Let me tell you, those wheels and especially the Ridea hubs were not very expensive yet were really shiny and pretty...but I decided to go in a different direction with my bike that they were on so didn't have much experience riding them. My kid talked me out of them and he has been beating the crap out of them for the past couple years with zero problems. And he is car-free...
IIRC they have pretty much the same flange, but the center cylinder was straight across rather than narrowing towards the middle like the OP's. And they DO have tracknuts. At the time I did the same google machine search and also found that Ridea is part of some kind of large(?) Asian company, then let it go at that. I will say that those hubs must have been pretty light 'cos the wheelset itself actually was, and the rims and spokes on it didn't strike me as being anyhing special.
Enjoy yours OP, and your scale too
Past Ridea hubs owner and rider here, or at least purported to be by the seller, a UK bike retailer. They were completely unmarked, so who knows? I looked but cannot find any separate pictures of the wheelset they were part of, but if you really care you can see them where they reside now on my son's Steamroller - the one with the big basket next to the tail-end of that long-running superthread.
Let me tell you, those wheels and especially the Ridea hubs were not very expensive yet were really shiny and pretty...but I decided to go in a different direction with my bike that they were on so didn't have much experience riding them. My kid talked me out of them and he has been beating the crap out of them for the past couple years with zero problems. And he is car-free...
IIRC they have pretty much the same flange, but the center cylinder was straight across rather than narrowing towards the middle like the OP's. And they DO have tracknuts. At the time I did the same google machine search and also found that Ridea is part of some kind of large(?) Asian company, then let it go at that. I will say that those hubs must have been pretty light 'cos the wheelset itself actually was, and the rims and spokes on it didn't strike me as being anyhing special.
Enjoy yours OP, and your scale too
10-22-20, 03:14 PM
#23
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
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This thread is great.
nervous24 You listen to me mister, Scrodzilla works for a living and I mean real work, not writing down gobbledy gook he provides this community with fixed gears and fixed gear accessories.
nervous24 You listen to me mister, Scrodzilla works for a living and I mean real work, not writing down gobbledy gook he provides this community with fixed gears and fixed gear accessories.
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10-23-20, 09:30 AM
#25
Your cog is slipping.
Here's a (R)idea: You can stick that olive branch up your ass along with your hubs.
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