Anyone give $800+ for a factory Tommasini paint job?
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Anyone give $800+ for a factory Tommasini paint job?
Quote for Red Rosa and shipping to them. Would love a review. My Tommy is a smoked Tecno, was thinking something similar but they no longer can do the smoke.
#2
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No personal experience but if there is a bike I would pay that much to paint, it would be a Tommasini. $800 isn’t too much more than a paint job from a quality US provider.
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
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Personal preference these days is original paint in the best condition I can find. I finally figured it out that it actually costs less to find a near-pristine original finish than to repaint with a reputable, high-zoot refinishing guru. Plus, the original paint is original
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
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My Faggin re-chrome and re-paint at the Faggin factory was about 450€ from memory, maybe a little less. Although it's beautiful, that's the price of a very nice condition complete and original C&V ride on it's own.
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$800 for this paint? Is it all paint or are there water slide super thin decals involved in the graphics involved on the TT? I think it any repaint is a personal call depending on the quality of the original paint and the desire something new and shiny.
I have a Bianchi MAX frame and extra fork I would love to have painted, I am sure it was repainted red (likely DIY even) and the forks chromed. But if I repaint it Celese will the vale increase by say 50% of the cost of the paint? If I have4 it painted Celeste and metallic Graple like I really want am I just throwing the cost of a paint job away?
I have a Bianchi MAX frame and extra fork I would love to have painted, I am sure it was repainted red (likely DIY even) and the forks chromed. But if I repaint it Celese will the vale increase by say 50% of the cost of the paint? If I have4 it painted Celeste and metallic Graple like I really want am I just throwing the cost of a paint job away?
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This thread should help your considerations:
Thread: Who's the best? CycleArt vs. Joe Bell for refinishing
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/re...ng-147466.html
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Decision for getting a repaint done on a classic/vintage bike frame/fork involves more than just the monetary price. Not the least of that is the owners thoughts and preferences on what they feel is appropriate, and what they are looking for in the end product. I have had a couple of bikes powder coated, but they are not collectibles and I was not looking to elevate the value. I had them done because of what I wanted and what I felt was best for my goals.
#9
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Decision for getting a repaint done on a classic/vintage bike frame/fork involves more than just the monetary price. Not the least of that is the owners thoughts and preferences on what they feel is appropriate, and what they are looking for in the end product. I have had a couple of bikes powder coated, but they are not collectibles and I was not looking to elevate the value. I had them done because of what I wanted and what I felt was best for my goals.
BTW I think CyclArt is out of business
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N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, ‘89 Cinelli Supercorsa, ‘83 Bianchi Specialissima, ‘VO Randonneur, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
Last edited by Spaghetti Legs; 02-24-20 at 07:01 AM.
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Personal preference these days is original paint in the best condition I can find. I finally figured it out that it actually costs less to find a near-pristine original finish than to repaint with a reputable, high-zoot refinishing guru. Plus, the original paint is original
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
sometimes though finding that bike is very elusive. I have bought a number where there was no question a respray was necessary. Only once did I find an original condition version later. I bought that too.
Color choice can play a part. If you really really want X color- sometimes you have to commission it.
as an investment resprays are rare not to be $ folly. Unless you can DIY. I have been able to do that twice- the challenge is to reproduce the “slap-dash” of the original finish often. A pro has standards... very hard to lower them.
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Personal preference these days is original paint in the best condition I can find. I finally figured it out that it actually costs less to find a near-pristine original finish than to repaint with a reputable, high-zoot refinishing guru. Plus, the original paint is original
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
Don't get me wrong, I've had a total of six bikes restored by others and have done two raw metal bikes on my own. In my case, I learned from experiences that refinishing just makes little to no fiscal sense when factoring in originality and value for money. I think the costs of refinishing tend to be overinflated, especially when once considers what some of our own members have accomplished with rattlecans or even brushed-on finishes!
DD
It certainly needs a refinish and CK would be the only one to do that.
Quality usually comes with $$$$ and it would seem odd to have anyone else refinish it.
It would be a beautiful heirloom bike.
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Although I have been attempting to wash my hands of any new bike projects, I have a neat Chris Kvale frameset sitting here.
It certainly needs a refinish and CK would be the only one to do that.
Quality usually comes with $$$$ and it would seem odd to have anyone else refinish it.
It would be a beautiful heirloom bike.
It certainly needs a refinish and CK would be the only one to do that.
Quality usually comes with $$$$ and it would seem odd to have anyone else refinish it.
It would be a beautiful heirloom bike.
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Personal preference these days is original paint in the best condition I can find. I finally figured it out that it actually costs less to find a near-pristine original finish than to repaint with a reputable, high-zoot refinishing guru. Plus, the original paint is original
I could imagine paying a bit to get a 90's/2000's Colnago frame repainted. But, probably not for the older generation monechrome frames.
Some of my Colnagos appear to have decals. Others appear to be painted. Although, I think someone mentioned that they may also have a paint transfer method they use.
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I told myself I was done with C&V projects last year (not done with riding them though) and that I had enough bikes
I do have enough -- but I have some framesets hanging on the wall that are calling my name again (so much for being done with C&V projects )
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Last two repaints I had done were a disappointment. I agree with DD, it's cheaper to find them in good original original condition. But what usually happens to me is, I find great frames that have been owned by knuckleheads...I have to save them. I have another one in the garage now, a Bertoni MAX. Paint is rough, not terrible, but could use a freshening up. Since it's not going to be original, I'll probably just have it powder coated black and apply new decals. A $150 is an amount that is doable, and won't eclipse the value of the frame.
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I find that I attempt to justify the purchase by thinking about a slight difference in features, e.g., the one I have has 700c wheels, the one I could buy takes 650b wheels. But when it comes down to it these days, I’m putting 90% of my road miles on new steel-framed bikes.
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I find that I attempt to justify the purchase by thinking about a slight difference in features, e.g., the one I have has 700c wheels, the one I could buy takes 650b wheels. But when it comes down to it these days, I’m putting 90% of my road miles on new steel-framed bikes.
650b is the way to go here.
My wife's MAP and my Weigle are 650bs.
Perfectly suited for our goshawful roads here in the Twin Cities.
As for new steel framed bikes, I ride my Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross all the time.
It's a Swiss army knife in its versatility and I can run 700x43's no problem.
Plus I don't feel guilty when the paint gets a chip or knick.
Ok, back to the topic.
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I hear ya, though. I'm going to get down to 4 riders and a show-only in the next couple years. I've had my fun; time to pare it down to the ones that get ridden.
DD
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I spent just over $800 on frame repairs and updates, decals, painting and clear coat on this scrap metal find '73 Super Course. I chemically stripped the the pea soup green spray paint, needed to have the seat stay/seat post junction re-brazed, added missing cable giudes, and water bottle bosses (should have done two pairs). I rode the stripped "naked" bike for a couple of months, and loved the fit, ride, and feel of the bike. It was my first ever build, and it kind of snowballed $wise, but I'm so glad I did it. It's done a couple of Eroicas, both gravel and pavement rides are a joy too. I know you can buy these all day for $200 - $300, even in relatively pristine condition, but this one has the gearing, looks and fit I wanted, plus I built it myself, which is worth something too. I had it painted with Toyota automotive paint, a two step process. Powdercoat might have been smarter and more durable, as well as cheaper, but it is what it is and I'm happy. 😊
Scrap metal frame, as found.
Stripped "naked" rat rod rider. Saddle adjustment and pedals were temporary. Spray paint preserved rear chrome stays. Front fork was replaced by chromed NOS fork.
Just back from paint, handled by The Bicycle Stand in Long Beach, CA.
Nice job on the detailing
From Sunday's club ride.
On a recent gravel ride.
To illustrate somebody else's point, I bought this nearly pristine (frame, paint and decals) PR10 for less than half what the Raleigh repaint cost, though it did need some mechanical upgrades.
A friend of mine just finished this Tommasini built from a pristine original frame, updated to new Campy Chorus drive train.
Scrap metal frame, as found.
Stripped "naked" rat rod rider. Saddle adjustment and pedals were temporary. Spray paint preserved rear chrome stays. Front fork was replaced by chromed NOS fork.
Just back from paint, handled by The Bicycle Stand in Long Beach, CA.
Nice job on the detailing
From Sunday's club ride.
On a recent gravel ride.
To illustrate somebody else's point, I bought this nearly pristine (frame, paint and decals) PR10 for less than half what the Raleigh repaint cost, though it did need some mechanical upgrades.
A friend of mine just finished this Tommasini built from a pristine original frame, updated to new Campy Chorus drive train.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 02-25-20 at 10:33 AM.
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For crazy-good quality and a very good value for the money you should at least talk to Jack at Franklin Frames, in Ohio. I sent a customer's lugged Waterford there a few years ago and was just knocked out by the results. Will snap a picture the next time he brings it in.
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$800.00 for a professional paint job, including art and clear coat is not all that expensive, in my opinion. Consider this...
I spent...
paint rattle cans, two blue, one gold, two primer and two clear = 7 x 15.00 CND + 15% tax = around $125.00, wet and dry sand paper, another ten dollars and art $125.00 CND or $90.00 US, for a total of $250.00+ CND or roughly $200.00 US. And, for my money I get to spend many dirty hours sanding, and painting and and and...
And I will end up with a paint job that is softer than most professionals will offer. I should add that patience will be required, once you finish the paint job. For me, a paint job must sit for three or oru months to dry, unless I force dry it with a heat cabinet. So, were it me and if I had the bucks and if I had a special frame, I would be comfortable dropping $800 for a professional paint job. Just make sure the painter really is a professional.
Anyway, here is what about $100.00 US will look like, if you do the work yourself and manage, somehow, to get it just right (not suggesting that the Rabeneick frame is just right yet, but give me a month this Spring, when I get back to Canada and the frame will be completed with art and clear coat protecting the water slide decals)...
I spent...
paint rattle cans, two blue, one gold, two primer and two clear = 7 x 15.00 CND + 15% tax = around $125.00, wet and dry sand paper, another ten dollars and art $125.00 CND or $90.00 US, for a total of $250.00+ CND or roughly $200.00 US. And, for my money I get to spend many dirty hours sanding, and painting and and and...
And I will end up with a paint job that is softer than most professionals will offer. I should add that patience will be required, once you finish the paint job. For me, a paint job must sit for three or oru months to dry, unless I force dry it with a heat cabinet. So, were it me and if I had the bucks and if I had a special frame, I would be comfortable dropping $800 for a professional paint job. Just make sure the painter really is a professional.
Anyway, here is what about $100.00 US will look like, if you do the work yourself and manage, somehow, to get it just right (not suggesting that the Rabeneick frame is just right yet, but give me a month this Spring, when I get back to Canada and the frame will be completed with art and clear coat protecting the water slide decals)...
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